leert12

At Autozone, they're not allowed to clear that code (but still kiss !Removed! and they'll do it), but that should go away after a Drive Cycle which is about 80-100 miles. But you can go to AutoZone and they'll tell you the code. It could be a few things. That doesn't seem too bad however. The water probably went into the exhaust system and probably a sensor issue.

Are you saying the key will not turn the ignition and the steering wheel seems unlocked? Please clarify... Is the key out of the ignition? If the key goes in the ignition, is the steering wheel turnable? Can the Car start? Can you turn the ignition? Clarify your situation.

I have used Premium 99.999% of the time but have 2-3 times used regular and didn't noticed a difference but does the Octane has anything to do with the injectors life? Or any long term performance issues that can be of concern? All of my cars' manuals have recommended Minimum 91. Anyone...

This is simple, no need to spend a fortune, just look at it you'll see it fits in the glove compartment and all the screws are right there. 1/2 hr tops.

A 97 Mitsubishi Galant. I needed a car to get around, bought it did the cosmetic stuff to clean it up , it started and ran. After a week, the radiator went, changed it. A week later, car started to overheat again, changed thermostat, then started to smoke, head gasket they said. Changed it. A week later, Engine went, Changed motor. Car ran fine but I sold it due to bad luck with the car. I just crossed my fingers and just took a heavy loss on it. I thought I got a steal at a local police auction. Paid only bout 400 or so to get it out but spent about 2800 on it. That's what you get going to Police Auctions. By the way, I like my car nice and clean and everything must work, so i was getting all the light to work, washing, polishing, shining, shampooing and all. New seat covers, the whole nine but was not worrying about what was under the hood. A damn monster. The guy who bought the car was happy, but that's after I went through all the heart aches. Not a Galant Again. Eva.

check through the forum, someone posted how to fix this problem. They said it has bulbs and it would only cost like 1-2 per bulb. and you can do it yourself.

If that driver's door switch doesn't work, master switch, you might need to replace it. You can buy on ebay, but they all don't work for all models. I think 97-99 and 00-01, some of them will tell you 97-01, please check, another guy told me he bought one that said 97-01 and he tried iit for his 00 and the wiring does not line up nor could he connect the wires.

I have a 2001 and I think 99-01 will work, but you'll have to find out for sure. Give me until next week, I might sell my transmission. I have to make a decision what to do with the Engine and Transmission. Car was update by dealer service only, with no missing service. That's right no missing service. I'll keep you posted. I think you have to get the Vin# or something to figure it out.

I might sell my motor for parts. I'll let you know by next week what my decision is. I'm in New York but I can probably ship the inside and just keet the block. I'll keep you posted or PM me or email me and let me know if you're still interested. BUT I HAVE A 2001, are they the same? Can someone help. Thanks.

Got to say something about OEM and Dealer and Direct and Aftermarket and all the fancy wording. Let's be reasonable about this for a moment... An item cost $500 at the dealer, you can get it cheaper say $250, we all can safely, based on common sense, figure that the item will last or work to say 75% to be very very conservative of what the original from dealer will work. Now, you can see how buying the cheaper item will outlast the original one because you can get 2 by which time you would have upgraded the car anyways. So you'd gain 50% at the same price. Now personally, not all the items I would take cheaper items, obviously, you have to consider the overall cost and weigh the benefits against cost, that's my simple formula I use to make that decision. Another thing about that is, let's think about this for a moment, besides the rigorous testing the dealer products go through. The Cheaper Goods also go through testing to be able to reach market. NOW, FOR THE JUICY STUFF, you know how everyone claims this Chinese product is no good, and that Japanese or American Product is good OR no good and the Germans etc etc., well, remember, businesses will try to produce products the CHEAPEST WAY but EXPECT HIGH QUALITY, so where do you think they'll produce their goods, you guessed it... PROBABLY THE SAME PLACE WHERE YOU ARE SKEPTICAL ABOUT BUYING FROM. Now, how would you know when they use words like, ORIGINAL, DEALER, WE ARE THIS AND WE ARE THAT AND WE ARE BACKED BY THESE PEOPLE AND THOSE ORGANIZATIONS. All in all, it is your judgement... but think rational, reason it out, you're smarter than you may think they're telling you you are. You'll know, do your research and you'll be fine. SO TO QUICKLY ANSWER YOUR POST AFTER THAT LONG LECTURE, you'd have to check the original against theirs, check testing and certification of the product you're interested in. And also keep in mind the above. Afterall, it's your car, your cash.

No way, the cycle is about 80-100 miles. 4000 miles is never-uary. Something is still wrong. My cousin said your problem is a short. That's providing you did a OBDII reset.

Let's take a step back. How did you end up with this problem? Did you do anything to cause this problem? ABS light doesn't just pop up unless there is a problem. Replaced the abs wheel sensor, now I need to reset the light since unhooking the power don't reset it. I think you might not be able to reset it yourself, try AutoZone and ask them if they can do it. If not, you might have to take it to the dealer. Unless there's a sequence to follow to reset it. I'd be interested to find out also.

I'm interested to know where to locate this sensor, I have a 2001. I know of one right on the manifold front and one between the firewall and the motor, where is this one that we're talking about?

Bolts are on the front floor infront of the seat and at the back on the floor and to the side. I think 4 just like the 01. BUT if you have side inpact airbag, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY TERMINALS BEFORE YOU DO THIS AND AFTER doing whatever you're doing, reconnect the cable under the seat, THEN, the battery terminals. Or else your Airbag light will illuminate and you might have to take it to the dealer to clear that light. I can't be sure on your car however, but this is a good idea.

Keep the mechanic, put him to do as this post suggest. This should solve your problem, I'm assuming you've already done the other misc stuff since you've gone inside already.

The regulator should run you about 100 online. New, an arm and a leg.

This might be a simple Refrigerant issue... go to AutoZone like he suggested and you'll be able to do it yourself. AutoZone has a diagram they'll show you where to fill what. Or you can go to AllData site and get the printout of the refrigerant system and do it yoursef.

First you'll find 2 little plastic circular about a penny size on both sides of the steering wheel. You will need a special HEX tool and it has 6 sprockets like like a phillips screw driver. It would be better to go to Sears and ask them for the tool approx. $25. Used it to open the two HEX screws and the Airbag will be released, you'll then get to the rest from here. Simple right? OH, NO. WAIT... YOU MUST DISCONNECT THE BATTERY TERMINALS FIRST OR YOU CAN POSSIBLY TRIGGER THE AIRBAG ON THE STEERING WHEEL.

If you feel vibration but the shaky kind.

Is there any other decent place in the fairfield county CT where I could take my ES300 for servicing? cheap and honest ? ← Lexus of Greenwich is the only other dealership in Fairfield County. Although I've never taken my car there for maintenance, I have paid a visit for parts purchases and some quick maintenance advice from the service advisors. The nice thing about this dealership is that they are open M-F until 11PM (long enough to cater the hard-working crowd) :D ← Lexusk8: So which place do you go to for the servicing? I just bought a '97 ES300 and need to find a place where I can take it regularly, for preventive maintenance as well as for anything else that comes up. Your advice is appreciated. I live in lower Fairfield county. Mine has 133K. Easy does it.

I finally found an original sales brochure for my 2000 Es300 and it says that the 6-stack (in the glovebox) is an option. Stephen ================ I have 99 ES300 without CD player/changer. Can someone suggest me how to get one installed? Where can I find it as Lexus dealer told me the parts are discontinued? Can the CD player/changer fit in the glove box? Can it play MP3? Thanks a lot! lmk I'll see if I have one for you, Hold tight, I'll get back with you. SO DOES THAT MEAN WE CAN JUST BUT THE CD CHANGER SEP. AND INSTALL THEM ON THE GLOVE BOX? I REALLY DONT WNAT TO REPLACE THE WHOLE RADIO. COZ I ALSO HAVE A 97 ES300 AND IT HAS THE CD FUNCTION BUTTON BUT NO ACTUAL CD PLAYER. THANKS. If that's the case, then it should work with a changer that should be able to mount in the glove compartment. I took out mine 2001 from the glove compartment. And yes the Face Head Unit does say CD option but it has a cassette slot, I'm assuming the 99 is the same. Thus, check for the connection in the glove box and it it is there, then you;re good to go. Next, you'd have to find the code on back of Head Unit, looks like this 86120-33320. Call the dealer and find out which CD Changer will work. Mine is matched up with the Changer that has the numbers 86270-33040 on back of Changer.