leert12

At Autozone, they're not allowed to clear that code (but still kiss !Removed! and they'll do it), but that should go away after a Drive Cycle which is about 80-100 miles. But you can go to AutoZone and they'll tell you the code. It could be a few things. That doesn't seem too bad however. The water probably went into the exhaust system and probably a sensor issue.

Are you saying the key will not turn the ignition and the steering wheel seems unlocked? Please clarify... Is the key out of the ignition? If the key goes in the ignition, is the steering wheel turnable? Can the Car start? Can you turn the ignition? Clarify your situation.

I have used Premium 99.999% of the time but have 2-3 times used regular and didn't noticed a difference but does the Octane has anything to do with the injectors life? Or any long term performance issues that can be of concern? All of my cars' manuals have recommended Minimum 91. Anyone...

This is simple, no need to spend a fortune, just look at it you'll see it fits in the glove compartment and all the screws are right there. 1/2 hr tops.

A 97 Mitsubishi Galant. I needed a car to get around, bought it did the cosmetic stuff to clean it up , it started and ran. After a week, the radiator went, changed it. A week later, car started to overheat again, changed thermostat, then started to smoke, head gasket they said. Changed it. A week later, Engine went, Changed motor. Car ran fine but I sold it due to bad luck with the car. I just crossed my fingers and just took a heavy loss on it. I thought I got a steal at a local police auction. Paid only bout 400 or so to get it out but spent about 2800 on it. That's what you get going to Police Auctions. By the way, I like my car nice and clean and everything must work, so i was getting all the light to work, washing, polishing, shining, shampooing and all. New seat covers, the whole nine but was not worrying about what was under the hood. A damn monster. The guy who bought the car was happy, but that's after I went through all the heart aches. Not a Galant Again. Eva.

check through the forum, someone posted how to fix this problem. They said it has bulbs and it would only cost like 1-2 per bulb. and you can do it yourself.

If that driver's door switch doesn't work, master switch, you might need to replace it. You can buy on ebay, but they all don't work for all models. I think 97-99 and 00-01, some of them will tell you 97-01, please check, another guy told me he bought one that said 97-01 and he tried iit for his 00 and the wiring does not line up nor could he connect the wires.

I have a 2001 and I think 99-01 will work, but you'll have to find out for sure. Give me until next week, I might sell my transmission. I have to make a decision what to do with the Engine and Transmission. Car was update by dealer service only, with no missing service. That's right no missing service. I'll keep you posted. I think you have to get the Vin# or something to figure it out.

I might sell my motor for parts. I'll let you know by next week what my decision is. I'm in New York but I can probably ship the inside and just keet the block. I'll keep you posted or PM me or email me and let me know if you're still interested. BUT I HAVE A 2001, are they the same? Can someone help. Thanks.

Got to say something about OEM and Dealer and Direct and Aftermarket and all the fancy wording. Let's be reasonable about this for a moment... An item cost $500 at the dealer, you can get it cheaper say $250, we all can safely, based on common sense, figure that the item will last or work to say 75% to be very very conservative of what the original from dealer will work. Now, you can see how buying the cheaper item will outlast the original one because you can get 2 by which time you would have upgraded the car anyways. So you'd gain 50% at the same price. Now personally, not all the items I would take cheaper items, obviously, you have to consider the overall cost and weigh the benefits against cost, that's my simple formula I use to make that decision. Another thing about that is, let's think about this for a moment, besides the rigorous testing the dealer products go through. The Cheaper Goods also go through testing to be able to reach market. NOW, FOR THE JUICY STUFF, you know how everyone claims this Chinese product is no good, and that Japanese or American Product is good OR no good and the Germans etc etc., well, remember, businesses will try to produce products the CHEAPEST WAY but EXPECT HIGH QUALITY, so where do you think they'll produce their goods, you guessed it... PROBABLY THE SAME PLACE WHERE YOU ARE SKEPTICAL ABOUT BUYING FROM. Now, how would you know when they use words like, ORIGINAL, DEALER, WE ARE THIS AND WE ARE THAT AND WE ARE BACKED BY THESE PEOPLE AND THOSE ORGANIZATIONS. All in all, it is your judgement... but think rational, reason it out, you're smarter than you may think they're telling you you are. You'll know, do your research and you'll be fine. SO TO QUICKLY ANSWER YOUR POST AFTER THAT LONG LECTURE, you'd have to check the original against theirs, check testing and certification of the product you're interested in. And also keep in mind the above. Afterall, it's your car, your cash.

No way, the cycle is about 80-100 miles. 4000 miles is never-uary. Something is still wrong. My cousin said your problem is a short. That's providing you did a OBDII reset.

Let's take a step back. How did you end up with this problem? Did you do anything to cause this problem? ABS light doesn't just pop up unless there is a problem. Replaced the abs wheel sensor, now I need to reset the light since unhooking the power don't reset it. I think you might not be able to reset it yourself, try AutoZone and ask them if they can do it. If not, you might have to take it to the dealer. Unless there's a sequence to follow to reset it. I'd be interested to find out also.

I'm interested to know where to locate this sensor, I have a 2001. I know of one right on the manifold front and one between the firewall and the motor, where is this one that we're talking about?

Bolts are on the front floor infront of the seat and at the back on the floor and to the side. I think 4 just like the 01. BUT if you have side inpact airbag, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY TERMINALS BEFORE YOU DO THIS AND AFTER doing whatever you're doing, reconnect the cable under the seat, THEN, the battery terminals. Or else your Airbag light will illuminate and you might have to take it to the dealer to clear that light. I can't be sure on your car however, but this is a good idea.

Keep the mechanic, put him to do as this post suggest. This should solve your problem, I'm assuming you've already done the other misc stuff since you've gone inside already.