Lucifer

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About Lucifer

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  • Lexus Model
    SC400
  1. I use water wetter in the racecars, primarily to hold down corrosion in the aluminium radiators. Glycol coolent is illegal for our racing because the kitty-litter won't dry it up and it's slick as snot when the tires go over it. Water wetter is just a wetting agent and defoamer. It helps the water or coolent to better contact the interior surfaces of the engine more fully so the coolent takes on and rejects the heat better. No mystery. Trapped tiny air bubbles can act as insulation and won't cool the engine. On my daily drivers I use a Ph balancer called "Napa cool" with the coolent. Obviously its available at Napa stores, it was originally made for diesel engines to hold down electrolysis.
  2. The tag on my SC400 calls for 32psi all the way around. Your larger tires hold more air and have a higher load capacity thus would actually need less air pressure to carry the same weight and still have a correct footprint. I wouldn't suggest going lower than 32psi or above 35psi cold.
  3. I just had my 94 SC at the dealer and asked about the beep when arming. I was informed that 94 doesn't beep or flash on the SC's however the LS's did. Some of the later years had a switch that controls the volume too.
  4. I chase 16yr old gazelles after they bail out of stolen cars and jump over fences and run through your backyards at 3am. I run toward the sounds of gunshots and hope to catch the person shooting. I find the biggest and baddest Mo'Fo's, that vow never to go back alive, and drag them straight down crying and pleading like babies. Basically, I find people doing bad sh and take them straight to hell. BTW, only a boot rookie would work speed from a shotgun start. I'd just use the radio... B)
  5. Ok... We've established that a '95 SC and a '94 LS beeps, but a '93 SC doesn't. Does anyone know if my '94 SC400 is supposed to beep or not? <_<
  6. My '94 SC400 doesn't beep or anything when I use the key remote. It's annoying as hell, not knowing if the doors are locked or not unless I look at the orange on the interior lock. Here I was thinking the security system was malfuctioning... I've got the "security" light on the dash that lights up when I lock the car with the key remote. What exactly is this stock security system supposed to do, sound the horn or what? I locked the doors and left the window down, then I opened the drivers door from the inside thinking it might simulate an intruder and set off an alarm but nothing happened. Does anyone know what exactly this security system is supposed to do, and how do I know if it's working?
  7. The O2 sensor simply compares the amount of oxygen left over in the exhaust gas to the oxygen outside. If there is a lot of oxygen in the exhaust, the computer interprets that as a lean condition and adds more fuel. Ideal combustion occurs at about 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio, this is called stochiometric and there should be no oxygen left over and only minute amounts of unburnt fuel and other combustion by products (carbon-monoxide and carbon-dioxide). All O2 sensors work the same. They generate a voltage in a range from .9 volts if the exhaust is rich (low oxygen), to about .1 volt if the exhaust is lean (high oxygen). .5 volts is stochiometric. The engine computer reads and counts each time the sensor toggles past .5 volts and adjusts the fuel ratio accordingly. Before the O2 sensor can start generating a signal it has to reach an operating temperature of about 600º F. The two, three, and four wire sensors just have an integrated pre-heater and extra ground wires. An O2 sensor has a porous ceramic tip coated with rare metals; once the tip begins to glow it starts to generate and fluctuate voltage rapidly. O2 sensors naturally slow down with age and this affects the computer's ability to react quickly and keep up with changing fuel needs. Leaded fuel will coat the tip of the sensor and and clog the porous ceramic eventually causing it to react slowly. Silicone is instant death to an O2 sensor. Use only low-volitile RTV silicone gasket sealer on the engine. Never, ever, get any WD-40 (silicone lubricant) or Armor-All (silicone tire dressing) on the O2 sensor tip or outside shell. If you drop a new O2 sensor or simply over tighten it, you may as well throw it away because the ceramic is easily fractured. Always be sure to use anti-seize on the threads (new sensors come with it). Torque to about 30 ft lbs.
  8. Ok, Reality Check... I once saw a guy driving over 135+mph fly his car airborne for about 200 feet and smack into a eucalyptus tree. He wrapped the passanger side around the tree about 10 feet above the ground, it tore the roof off the car, and the engine and trans separated from the chassis. He got ejected and was found about 50 feet away all mangled like a backwards pretzel. All the big bones in his body and legs were mush, his spine curved the wrong way and his feet were touching the back of his head. His skull was squashed sideways with pink maccaroni pouring out the split in his forehead. The passengers didn't fair much better. One guy had a couple of front teeth where his ears were supposed to be, and nothing but hamburger for a face. The whole scene was some major carne asada... My point is that all the fun can come to a stop in a big way. The energy potential of a vehicle in motion varies with the square of the speed, so if you go twice as fast you get to wreck with four times the energy. On the race track is one thing, in the streets is another animal altogether. Too many solid things to hit, other people to get in the way, etc. Have fun but be safe.
  9. If it said two in the book, then it's probably two that it needed. A Toyota engineer designed your trans to hold a specified amount of fluid capacity. One extra quart would definitely be over-full and could cause foaming of the fluid. I've seen fluid foam out of the dipstick tubes on powerglides that were too full. If it's just too much fluid, there's a good chance there won't be any damage since you caught it right away. I'd suggest to check the fluid level at the dipstick. If you find it's over the mark that could shed some light on this mystery and point to a possible solution.
  10. Speaking in general, tranny's can only leak from a few places. The most likely places for a big leak in order of likelyhood are the pan gasket, tailshaft seal, front seal, selector shaft seal, and oil cooler lines. There are usually other places such as speedometer cables, governor covers, switches and other accoutrements that may also leak but are usually only a slight weeping leak. Since you just had it drained and refilled, and implied that no other parts were touched, I wonder if it might not be the most obvious thing. Perhaps the trans was simply overfilled and the fluid is foaming and coming out a top vent.
  11. My bro-in-law did his civic with gutter guard. It came out looking pretty cool. It's plastic so it weighs next to nothing and you can cut it with stout scissors and zip tie it in place, plus it's dirt cheap. It came in black so no painting was needed. The only draw back is that it only comes in 8" wide rolls. I liked it so much I might even use it for the grill in my race car.
  12. What I meant by "clean out the exhaust" is that I drive it like it was designed for.... to it's full potential.... Gas pedal all the way down on the floor ;) The power seemed a little flat for the first couple of days after I got it, then it came to life. I know it was driven by a 50+ female for all it's days. Probably some carbon build up in the cat or whatever ehhh ? Yeah, it does run better with the premium fuel and thats all I put in it now. I've had it since July and this problem with the check engine lamp started about 3-4 weeks after I got it. I'm in California where we just had the mondo fires. I replaced the air filter with a K&N since the fires clogged up most of my other cars filters too. That made a huge difference in the torque and intake noise got throatier too. I found out the air filter door popped open and that was the majority of the drone. When I closed the access door the torque dropped off quite a bit. That air intake tract forward of the air box must be a sizeable restriction. I was thinking about doing some stealth surgery, since we have to smog check every other year here. I wanted to change the fuel filter, but when I looked it didn't present itself. Where are the darn things? I'll probably throw in an O2 sensor too just because of the miles, but I agree I don't think that's the problem. Usually an O2 will set a hard code, and the light will stay on. I used to wrench for a living about 12 years ago, mostly OBD1 stuff but lost touch if you know what I mean. I don't have any manual for this beast yet. AWJ, Thanks, I'd appreciate any diagnostic procedure or specs info, pm is on it's way. Hey, someone said these little beasts have timing belts???? I thought it was a chain? It doesn't look like a T-belt system from the front of the engine...unless it's totally buried. Was I squinting and holding my tongue wrong or something? Ok, I give up.... Chain or T-belt?
  13. Hi guys, recently got a clean '94 SC400 w/ automatic about 80K miles. It was owned by an older female and ran kinda flat until I cleaned out the exhaust ;) It seems to run pretty good now but the engine lamp comes on occasionally, only after a really hard acceleration. The lamp stays on about a day then goes off if I drive it normally. It seems worse if I run low grade fuel instead of the top grade so I was thinking possibly a misfire detection in the computer since the light never comes on during easy driving. I also noticed that I'm hitting the fuel cut off at about 6500 if I let it shift in auto. Has anyone had any similar experiences and what did it turn out to be? It's not as much fun if I have to keep my foot out of it....