fsuguy

...another thing to check is the resistor (should be on the right inner fender near the relay and igniters). From one of these related threads, it looks like the fuel pump has two circuits, one of which is for high demand situations. From what I read, juice to the FP is routed via the FP resistor, and these occasionally go south! You could check to see if these get powered up when you turn on the key.

mike

I am working on rebuilding a wrecked 1990 LS400 that was wrecked in the front LH corner. The problem that I am having is the relays behind the headlight on that side were distroyed. The vehicle will not run, and I am trying to figure if this has anything to do with it. The inst cluster is also missing, and will need to be replaced. Anyone have any idea what these relays do or are? Thank You, Rob

If the '90 is similar to the '92, then your relays on the left (behind the battery) include the Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI), cooling fan relays (x2), seat heater relays, cigarette lighter relay, headlights, horn etc. Sorry I cannot be more detailed - this is just from memory from working on my '92.

HTH

Mike

bullen727,

Is your fuse blowing or is it your bulb? In my '92, one of the two of my right rear brake light bulbs kept blowing and the fuse kept blowing as well. Finally to get to the bottom of the problem, I stripped the trunk and looked at the wire-harness leading up to the light assembly. Turns out that the heat from the bulb had melted the insulation on the hot wire in the bulb holder assembly, which in turn caused the wires to short to ground, arc the bulb, and blow the fuse. After I cleaned up the mess, everything worked as before - good! In the process, I also eliminated some of the well documented trunk wire problem! My yellow ground wire had a break internally!

HTH

mike

Howzit Everyone,

I'm still working on my 1995 ls project. The vehicle is now running after putting in a reman. ECU after a complete timing belt/waterpump change. I bought the vehicle knowing there was a possible trans problem and now that vehicle runs the tranny is not working. It does not move in any gear other than at times while siiting there in reverse gear the car will move a little but stop when I give it some gas. Just want some ideas on going forward with troubleshooting. I have just drained the pan and am going to pull it off to look at the valve body and solenoids to see if anything is abnormal. After that I'll put in the proper fluid and filter and see what happens before taking it to a tranny shop. Just hoping I may get lucky and fix it myself. I don't have any history on the car other than that it was owned by a vietnamese jeweler on Oahu. The car is a 1995 with 96,00 miles. Thanks in advance for all your help and many thanks to previous posters who helped me get my 1991 back on the road (starter change).

ssdoeg2,

My '92 began having the same problems about 2 years ago - it would not go into any gear until I let it run for about 20 minutes! The problems began slowly and then got worse. Initially it was only reverse gear, but when L & D started giving me problems, had had enough! Took it into a transmission shop and had them work it over. Turns out that the seals were basically shot and had to be replaced. Everything else inside was basically sound, although the shop decided to replace the torque converter and I think one set of bands, although I am not sure about the bands.

Before I took it in, however, I changed my fluid, cleaned out the pan, solenoids, etc., but no change. Hope this helps.

Mike

i just bought the car it doesn't run... the way he described it dying on him was a rough idle.. if he pushed a the gas the miss would get worse then would have to keep on the gas to keep it started. Then it finally died. i have found that there is spark, timing "should" be on, but there is no power at the pump the wires seem good all the way back to the front of the vehicle then they disappear behind the ecu. no power at the fuel pump relay either.... im stuck is there a security issue or vacuum issue? Half tempted to take it to THE MAN and pay for it but trying to avoid the bill. any ideas would be helpful Thanks!!!

btw i can use a jumper to turn the fuel pump on but still doesn't start even using ether still no kick

Not sure whether this may help, but have you checked your fuse block inside the car? Under the dash by the pedals, there is a fuse block. In my '92 there is a plastic cover, and yours may be similar.

HTH

mike

Hi dbullen,

I never recieved your e-mail. Mine is mike@nettally.com, or robertsm@fdhc.state.fl.us;

Do you still have the parts? Can you e-mail me a listing of the parts you do still have, and also my original question:

"Hi dbullen,

I have a '92 LS400 with a pale blue interior and am looking for the following parts:

1. Cup holder and mint condition cover (i.e. unbroken) - the door that flips up to cover up the cup holder;

2. Functioning lamp failure sensor module (the module that fits in the trunk);

3. Front driver's side outside door handle.

If you can let me know whether you still have these items and whether they are in good shape, i would like to purchase them (Please send me shipping cost and payment that would be acceptable to you at my e-mail address: mike@nettally.com.)"

Thx

Mike

Here is link to a message with detailed instructions on replacing the driver's side IC. Hope it helps you.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=60609&st=0&p=389588&fromsearch=1entry389588

Hi,

It may be that the rotors are worn excessively (beyond specifications - rotor/hub run-out) and therefore resulting in the vibrations you are experiencing. If it is not the thickness issue, then it may be the rust causing the vibration. If your rotors are worn out, it is possible that the replacements were not the OEM (or OEM quality) ones. See the Lexus section in the following link on brake vibration: http://arrc.epnet.com/autoasp/framerq.asp.

Hope this helps

Mike

Prices don't include shipping, pm me your ZIP code for a shipping quote.

Pulled from a 90 LS400 Blue Ext / Blue Int., all parts listed below are in great shape.

Rear Windows Switch $15.00 each

Front Grill: $35.00

Front Fenders $50.00 Each

Master Cylinder $45.00

Interior Doors Panels $45.00 Each (In amazing shape)

Throttle body w position sensor $40.00

Rear Calipers with brackets $65.00 (Includes both)

Rear Axles $35.00 Each

Rear Taillights Inner: $20.00 Each

Rear Taillights Outter: $20.00 Each

Drivers Headlight $35.00

Pass. Headlight $35.00

Pass Fog Light $30.00

Rad Fan w/clutch $45.00

Two Front Cooling fans $60.00 (Includes both)

Alternator $50.00

Power Window Motor w/regulator $40.00 (per window)

Dome Light $15.00

Rear View Mirror $25.00

Drivers Side Mirror $30.00

PAssengers Side Mirror $30.00

Front Seat belts $30.00 (Each)

Outside Door Handles $25.00 Each

Inside Door Handles $15.00 Each

Engine ECU $40.00

Drivers Airbag $40.00

Clockspring $35.00

Ashtray $15.00

Hood Latch $15.00

Igniter $25.00

Wiper Motor $25.00

Coil Assembly (19080-50011) $30.00

Cup Holder $20.00

Gas Door $20.00

Horns $10.00

ABS ECU $40.00

Lamp Failure Module $15.00

Jack w/ turning tool $30.00

Pioneer Amp $20.00

Complete Lexus Toolkit (Mint) $50.00

I make sure I pack all items very safe and secure, so they will not be damaged during shipment.

I will ship all items the same day as funds are received.

Any questions pm me.

Hi dbullen,

I have a '92 LS400 with a pale blue interior and am looking for the following parts:

1. Cup holder and mint condition cover (i.e. unbroken) - the door that flips up to cover up the cup holder;

2. Functioning lamp failure sensor module (the module that fits in the trunk);

3. Front driver's side outside door handle.

If you can let me know whether you still have these items and whether they are in good shape, i would like to purchase them (Please send me shipping cost and payment that would be acceptable to you at my e-mail address: mike@nettally.com.)

Thanking You

Sincerely

Mike Roberts

Hi listers,

It sounds like you know whereof you speak, so I am hoping one of you may be able to help diagnose my problem - the car is a '92LS400, and it has very poor throttle response once it warms up to normal operating temperature. The CEL indicates 25 (lean) but I am only getting about 12mpg(?)

When cold, the engine is smooth and sounds fine, but when warmed up it is miserable. I had the plugs, wires, distributor caps and rotors with original parts from Lexus (from Sewell) and Toyota, replaced about 3 to 4 months ago, but I think this may be a fuel pump or related problem. Just don't know where to start.

One other strange issue is that after warmed up, while driving, every so often the engine sort of loses power almost as if the fuel is cut off, or the spark is not getting to the engine, then it resumes. This "surge" is very noticeable and I am wondering if any of you have experienced it, and have any idea of what it may be due to. I had just changed my TPS because in addition to the "25", there was a CEL of "41" (TPS) which has since gone away following the replacement of the TPS.

I would appreciate any suggestions of what to look for, or how to resolve the issue.

Thanks in Advance

Mike

Thanks Python.

I checked the trouble code. It's 41: TPS problem (probably ECU, but I'll take my chance of assuming ECU's OK). I guess I have both: the trunk harness and TPS. Don't you think so? Can I have some details about how to fix the trunk harness?

Thanks again Python!

jqzhang,

Look at the left hinge of your trunk - there is a cluster of wiring that goes to the taillights; the wiring from the factory was probably too short and due to flexing over time, either one or more wires in the cluster break inside the insulation causing a variety of odd problems. You will need to first release the wire bundle from the hinge, then unwrap the electrical tape around it. Now this is the difficult part - you will need to check each of the wires separately to find out whether it is broken inside its insulator. If you are "lucky" the break will include the insulator. You probably should check the yellow wire first, then the black ones.

HTH

Mike

lex460,

Can you post some pics of how to hook up a pressure gauge to the fuel rail? I have a '92 and want to check my fuel pressure 'cause once the engine has warmed up, I lose performance drastically! Any help in this area would be very much appreciated.

TIA

Mike

Hi guys. Just wanted to share my weekend project i did with famous lcd replacement. Pardon the dust and tape. Bought this car recently and getting it great condition as we speak. If anyone needs help in this area let me know ;)

sebastor,

Nice pictures! I am planning to do the same to my '92, so these pictures will be very helpful. Can you post where you obtained the LCD replacement from, how it compares with the display on the radio (matching color, fonts, etc.) and cost? Also, any info regarding the leds you have in the pic would also be much appreciated, and any problems with soldering the million or so pins :)

Thx

Mike

I had a 90-92 dash from a Toyota Celsior import with the lighting problem you describe and managed to repair it by replacing capacitors C6 and C7 on the top PCB ( the one which has the heat sinks on) the capacitors are both 220uF 25v rating but get the 105 degree rated ones.

I am hoping this is the same PCB used in the Lexus models the part number on my PCB was Denso 457952-0502

steve2006,

Thank for for that info. Did you recall the exact capacitors (type etc.)? All advice and information points out to a serious size and space limitation on the board, so it would be very helpful to have this information before I begin.

TIA

Mike

pics would be nice

hi flipstyle808,

The idler pulley is at the top right of the engine (if you are looking at it from the front of the car). Using either a long breaker bar on the belt tensioner pulley bolt, take the pressure off the serpentine belt - this is the belt that drives your alternator, water pump, power steering and fan, etc. Don't horse anything - you should not have to push too hard to know if you are taking the tension off the belt! Once you do that, slip the belt off the tensioner pulley and slowly let the pressure off the belt tensioner pulley. Next remove the belt off the idler pulley and using correct sized socket with the breaker bar or a hefty wrench, remove the idler pulley bolt. If the idler pulley is really shot to bits, it may come off in pieces; if not, there should be one center bolt and a largish washer. Don't lose the washer or bolt since your new part does not come with those (mine didn't!). Replace everything in the same order. Make sure you follow the torque specifications for the bolt when replacing it - sorry I don't have that info with me at the moment.

HTH

:)

Mike

That still seems like an unreasonably high price. Ship it to me and I'll repair it for $150. I'll warranty it for two years and I'll even send you instructions on how to remove the cluster. In fact here you go http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/electrical/...entcluster.html

Thank you again for the helpful comments and suggestions,

I agree with killerFatty - $300.00 for a couple of capacitors and the soldering seems way too much for this job. It would be helpful to know exactly which capacitors would be needed for the job, though, since I would be able to order them in advance before starting. There is a bunch of info for fixing the '93 and '94 model years circuit boards, but none for the '90-'92!

:)

mike

mach,

I just had my timing belt, water pump, cam seals, rotor and distributor caps, plug wires, plugs, and valve cover seals replaced. The Toyota mechanic who did the work said that there was a very tiny leak by the oil level sensor. I did not think much of it, but now every now and then my oil level light (the orange one) lights up. I checked the oil level and it's fine, so I think the oil leak probably has messed up the connection to the sensor. Perhaps this may be your problem too(?)

Let us know what you find out.

Mike

There is a company that is called Mikado.

You ship them your unit, they repair then ship it back. Easy peasy.

Should be info for them on here.

It's very common, pretty much expected on 1st gen. They can also repair your screen under the center vents, cause I'm guessing it's blacked out too, if not...you're d@mn lucky!

jcrome (and all the rest of you that responded): Thank you for your thougts, suggestions, and comments. I have read through almost every thread relating to cluster lighting on this forum, and several more on the web, in general, but no mention of this issue on the '92. Anyway, I am going to try the repair route, since it is most likely that a used cluster will be subject to the same service life limitations as my original cluster.

When I do repair, I will post my findings/work-arounds, or whatever I decide to do to fix it so it may possibly help other '92 owners.

I must say that it gets very exciting when the lighting fails and all I can see are four glowing needles pointing aimlessly!!! Too bad the Toyota fracas cannot help us too!

:D

Mike

I just got 90 LS 400 148,000miles

BUUUUUUUT too many problems in there.....

1st. under hood, smells like gasoline, too strong, I thinks fuel line leaks but not sure

2nd. engine sound is unstable

3rd. under hood, some smoke in there

4th. in the panel, "trac off" light on though i put the switch, "height-normal" light on, and "airbag" light on

:(

Smoke is probably leaking valve covers - oil drips onto the hot exhaust components and smokes. You probably notice this as occasional puffs of smoke(?); gasoline smell is troublesome, but not hard to track down; airbag light - on you can try to find a thread on this forum to turn it off.

That leaves the "trac off"!!!

HTH

Mike

).

If your alternator is bad the most common issue is brushes are worn out which is easily repairable. If they are worn or broken you can't get enough field current and then the alternator can't get enough power out. If its not the brushes then it is likely blown winding, fried diodes on rectifier plate, or bad voltage regulator. Generally these failures mean replacing the alternator with a rebuilt unit.

If you don't have a DVM get one. One of the most useful tools you can own and very inexpensive.

Just to want to add to the curious list, as the symptoms quoted are Alternator, there is a rectifier with the Collar Adjusting Alternator, if this is fused, you would have the brushes getting worn out faster, and later the condenser blowing out. You may want to look at these also.

I would add one small suggestion to the most excellent testing write-up by curiousB, and the additional note by mann777:

Check to see whether your power steering fluid is leaking - this is usually a prime culprit for failing alternators - the PS is mounted just above the alternator and when it leaks the fluid drips right onto the alternator eventually causing failure. If you have a leak, fix it at the same time you fix the alternator. Also look up this forum for a picture of a makeshift shield (looks like a sort of plastic bottle trimmed to fit on the alternator) to protect the alternator.

HTH

Mike

i have replaced both ignition coils, rotorary buttons, spark plugs and wires. my catalytic converters are still glowing red. slow acceleration, low idle. what could be my other problems, pls adv

wilsomy,

If your cats are glowing red, and you have just changed both coils, plugs and wires, something is wrong with your ignition - you are burning gas outside your combustion chamber. The fuel is igniting in the exhaust/catalytic converter area. Recheck both coils and your plugs/wires, etc. Somewhere the spark is getting lost!

HTH

Mike

one simple issue is the wire harness located in the driver side trunk hinge under the black plastic trim. Remove the trim and pull the harness out. Follow it back to the different bends and inspect the wires for cracks or breaks. Splice in the same size wire if any areas appear to be damaged.

This problem is common and can cause many weird issues. Search the threads for more info on this.

Some of what you described may be ECM related. See my recent thread on ECM repair.

93ls400walt....thanks for the advice.....i will check for cracks in the wiring where you described.....I will report later on the weekend....i have heard of this wiring check before but have never of this as being the culprit

I will advise......Thank you

fiveofakind,

What you are describing sounds like an alternator problem. My '92 showed similar symptoms about 8 months back, and thanks to information on in this forum, I suspected the Alternator. Battery would die after getting a full overnight charge, and all dash warning lights would suddenly light up etc. Anyway, took the alternator off and had it tested at an Autozone where they confirmed it was defective. Put in a new one and problem resolved.

HTH

Mike

I have a 1992 Lexus Ls400 the interior lights , tilt steering , power door locks, radio, seat belt adjustment are not working. Yes I have checked the fuses and yes I have disconnected the battery and then reconnected it. I have checked every individual fuse . I am at a loss. Please I need to hear advice from someone who has actually corrected this issue. I have looked over the relays and I am at a loss. Is therre a separate ecu some where? is there a relay? Help!

The car runs fine everything works but what is wrong!

cvx16cvx@yahoo.com

Did you figure it out? I looked in my 1990 owners guide and some of those non-working things you mentioned are on different circuits, so its strange. Power locks on a different circuit than the radio. I dont think the radio, power locks had a relay.

cvx16cvx,

Did you ever find out what was wrong? It sounds like a harness connector is either disconnected or its contacts have been mucked up; what condition is the interior of the vehicle? water damage, rust, etc.? I believe there are major harnesses that route to the back one the left and right inside edges next to the seats.

Hope this helps a bit.

Mike

Just be carefull taking the gauge cluster apart. It is simple and fairly straight foward, just unscrew and unclip, but the needles and circut boards are pretty delicate. Check out my thread on my gauge cluster repair.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...mp;hl=capacitor

killerFatty,

Thank you for the tips and the link. The information you posted in your thread s very helpful, as is your success story! I will be ordering the parts very soon and then give it a shot.

Thanks again.

Mike

jdavis,

For what it's worth, it cost me about $780.00 US to get the timing belt on my '92LS changed. Did it at an out of town Toyota dealership after I made certain that the mechanic who would do the work had actually work experience on the LS400. Had to go that route because the local Toyota dealership has yokels for mechanics, and the nearest Lexus dealer is eithe Jacksonville Fl, or Atlanata Ga! The locals yanked out my #3 speed sensor (OD sensor) wire causing the OD to malfunction (confirmed by the out of town dealership).

Anyway, the $780.00 included the following:

1. Change Timing belt.

2. Change drive belt.

3. Change waterpump.

4. Change both upper and lower radiator hoses.

5. Change the cam seals.

6. Replace the spark plugs.

7. Change the spark plug tube seals

8. Replace the EGR valve.

9. Replace the valve cover seals.

10. Replace the spark plug wires.

I supplied the following all genuine Lexus parts ordered from Sewell and/or Toyota dealerships:

1. EGR valve.

2. 8 spark plug set.

3. Spark plug wire set.

4. Valve cover gasket set.

The did other work as well, but that was not included in the price listed. I am happy that I checked out their mechanic before I left my car with them since I am confident that the work was done right, unlike it would have been if I had left the car at our local Toyota dealership (who refused to reimburse me, by the way for the damage to the OD speed sensor - cost $125.00 to fix).

HTH

Mike