mktbully

consider using speed bleeders? http://www.speedbleeder.com/ the real one man (person) brake bleeder. note: i don't sell this stuff..i don't own the site...i am in no way finanically related to that site. just a good product i want to pass along.

so that rim is the same for the 98 SC300 AND SC400?

i'm talking about the stock wheels. what's the difference between wheels off the SC300 and the SC400 98-99 years. is it the 5 spoke 16" wheels? are the wheels same between SC300 and SC400 around those years? Thanks! Dan

i was looking for the wiring diagram also..nothing yet. :(

sweet...is the engine rebuilt?? nope...orig engine. he just had the tranny redone.

going to be picking up a 92 SC400...314K+ (no typo) . the owner is the orig owner.

130mph??

Since you're switching from Synthetic(0W40) to Synthetic(5W30) it shouldn't create any leaks, but it is bad if you continuously change the weight of the oil, it will create problems down the road. If I were you, I would use 0W40 for a couple of days, and then switch to 5 or 10 W 30. Switching from non-synthetic to synthetic is good for the block, but continuously switching, will reduce your engines performance significantly. Synthetic prevents buildup. Some of the "detergents" are chemicals that reduces/breaks down the size of metal fragments and carbons in your engine. MKt: What's "dino oil"? dino oil = non syn oils. ya know the black stuff from the ground that used to be dinosaurs. :D

if you're leaking w/ dino oil then you'll be leaking w/ syn. if it's a small leak w/ dino oil then it'll be a bigger leak w/ syn. syn oils tends to have more detergent than dino oils...so if you have a clump of sludge/foreign material blocking the leak then the syn oil will wash it out hence leaking more w/ syn oil. so basically you can switch...but it's better to stay with one kind.

IMO for now...if your engine is in good running condition then use the weight the manufacturer recommends. feel free to run syn oils if you're comfortable with the added cost and considering no leaks around the engine. if you're serious in finding out if the oil is right for you then spend a few bucks and send the oil sample to a lab to see whats going on in the motor.

Mktbully: Question for you. What are the credentials for these people, providing information? Just kind of curious. There are websites out-there that don't provide the best of the best info. blackstone provides a result of the oil sample in a email format. the emails are forwarded to one person who's collecting the data. of course there will be slight bit of margin of error...but we're looking at a population sample. the people who are taking samples are the DIYers just like u and me (i'm assuming you're a DIY). basically you let the oil drain for 5-10 secs and then a bottle is stuck in the stream to collect the sample. there are no manufacturers paying for it. each sample is paid for by each owner of the car. no bias is put on to anything. the comments are coming from blackstone themselves.

AMSOIL Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30 Motor Oil remains free of sludge, varnish and other by-products of high temperature degradation. With no deposits to foul them, engines stay cleaner longer for top performance and efficiency and maximum service life This is what I am trying to say. If an oil remains in the state you put it in (color, cleanliness, feel) it is a sign that it is doing its job and not degrading. At least that is what I have always read. Do you have any cites that indicate otherwise?? no oil will retain the same color as you pour it in unless you have not started up the engine. what i'm saying is don't just look at the oil and say.."well it looks dark time to change it"...people think that...but in fact the oil is still good and protecting the engine. the quote on amsoil's oil...same can be said for mobil1..and most high quality syn oil. if you look at the links i showed you the oil testing from blackstone labs will tell you if your oil can still be ran in the car (TBN numbers). http://www.mindspring.com/~bill99gxe/Oil%2...s%20Results.zip download the xls file from the link above. it's from a friend of mine who's a maxima owner and taken oil samples and recorded their facts. yes i also own a maxima so my test is up there too. the TBN number explained.. http://www.blackstone-labs.com/do_i_need_a_tbn_.html don't get brain washed by the oil companies. read the facts...learn them and understand them. i don't want to start any arguuments or problems here. just want you to see the facts. unless you actually tested your own oil sample then all you're doing is speculating.

for the money mobil1 is the best oil you can get. for dino oil castrol gtx performs as close to a synthetic. personally recommend it if you're running dino oil. for the guys who have big wallets amsoil is also good. they claim to have extended drain intervals..but you make the call on that. some good reading if you have the time. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ what's more important is a quality filter and correct oil change intervals will prolong your motor. also the color/appearance of the oil itself has NOTHING to do with how well it lubricates. if you're worried about your oil and how it's doing in the engine then what i recommend is sending the oil out to a lab.... http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ . the results you get will tell you what's going on w/ your engine and how's the oil doing.

any idea where to get this black pearl paint?

anyone has any info on aftermarket alarm wiring code...(ie what color wire is 12+/ign/door lock/trunk) on the SC? thanks!

let me know if you can find one for the SC. the black LCD liquid is creeping up on the display on mine.

the GM dexcool is the #1 engine killer for a lot of the GM cars and trucks. just search on google and you'll see a few cases and perhaps a few lawyers trying to go after GM for it. the coolant some how clumps up in certain places and well you guess it...clogs it up. then your engine overheats and ugly things happen after that. the toyota red is good stuff...maybe that's why it's only avail at toyota and it cost twice as much as the green stuff. green - has silica red (toyota) - no silica dexcool - no idea (but it sucks) :D i think Honda also have their own "house brand" of coolant.

newbie here..but i guess i can contribute to this discussion. toyota "red" coolant is not the normal dexcool you see in GM/saturn cars. the red coolant is silica free and comes from the factory in new(er) toyotas. i believe it's also extended drain/flush interval w/ the red coolant. if your car came w/ green coolant and you feel comfortable w/ the green coolant (flushing it more often) then i would stick w/ the green coolant. :)