delta901

Has some spare time and ask myself why not upgrade my Front and Back sway bars? Cross-reference for my 01 ES300 is 99-02 Solara, right? Used 2001 Solara V6 as x-ref, I found the following: TRD: Rear: p/n PTR06-06990-10 - unkwn - hollow??? Whiteline: Front - BTF38 - 24mm - solid Rear - BTR39 - 20mm - solid Which is better? Do I need any thing else or is it plug and play? Thanks!

Does anyone know if I replace OE head unit with a aftermarket head unit, will I lose the OE sub? I will use aftermarket harness with RCA pre-out, no cutting of OE plug. This is for a 2001 ES300. Thanks!

Say "GELLING". :D

Are you smoking something? EPA rating for this car is 17 city / 24 Hwy. I got about 20 mixed city / highway (50/50).

Bingo, Toyo 4 was not invented yet (at the time). It is only a few years old. You can use Amsoil ATF with toyo but no need to. You are making a lesser fluid. My is a 01, spec'ed Toyota T-IV. Toyota T-IV is phasing out. The new standard is Toyota WS.

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"Is that step just to get all the loose dirt and grime off beforehand?" Yes. Any dirt or grime will stick to your powerball and scratch your headlight if they are big enough. Dish detergent is also a very good wax remover. Warning: one PlastX + powerball application may not remove years of UV, layers of road grime on your head light. Be patient!!! This http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=97337 even worst than your and worked great.

1/Use seafoam to clean your injector + chambers 2/Put a bottle of Techron + 3 oz of Lucas UCL in your tank. 3/Change our oil to 10w40. 4/Run for 100-200mi 5/Put fresh - top tier gas in your tank. 6/Replace your PCV 7/Clean / change your air filter 8/Clean MAF 9/Warm up the engine for as least 30min (avoid idle) or 15mi highway before you let the tech do a re-test (which should be free). Hot CAT is better than cold/warm CAT. I have seen some SMOG tech put a cold car to test and failed it right away. Remember, never let the same shop repair / replace your CAT. They want $$$. This may save you $$$ for a new CAT.

Clean your headlight with dish detergent then use PlastX with Mini powerball. Much better then rubbing compound and cost less than $20. DO NOT USE HIGH SPEED POLISHING / BUFFER. It will burn / melt your head light. Powerball won't. Did my when I first got my 01. Also powerballed all conner, fog and tail lights. Look like brand new again. You will see further with that HID too.

I am not sure if using M1 or other synthetic is compatible with Toyota T-IV. The only ATF that stated COMPATIBLE with Toyota T-IV is Mobil 3309. Because of this, I have to go with Toyota OEM T-IV since Mobil 3309 is very tough to find and expensive. I will drain the ATF and differential tomorrow if weather is good. Thanks!

first time heard about differential service on the ES. I have a 01, it should be the same. two question: 1/ what is the benefit of change differential fluid? Didn't see it in the owner manual. 2/ where is the filler tube? it is the same one that you use to refill ATF? I drained and refilled my tranny awhile ago. Thanks!

Bump! Any one???

Bump, any luck? I want to kill my DRL too.

Back to your OP topic. Thing you should check: Body structure especially welding points. Weight of each door. If they are varies, BAD. Fluid leaking under the car, especially near exaust and DS under body. Spare tire storage area, check if there is any water (even if dried). Suspension. If you are unfamiliar with car, as a condition of the sales, have the car inspected by a mechanic of your choice. Use AutoCheck AND Carfax. Most insurance companies use Autocheck to check for prior damage before paying for Coll repair. Based on personal experience, when I checked my 99 ES300 against Carfax and Autocheck, Carfax missed a minor accident that Autocheck found.

99 - 01 ES300 1MZ-FE with VVT-i were interference engines. 97-98 were not. 99.99% positive. As long as you change the T-belt on time / within safety zone, it doesn't matter interference or not. BTW, 99-01 has more horsee than 97-98.