smooth1

It was 18 when I started. I think Wisconsin was still 18 well after all the other states went 21.

IS 300

Easy. Vodka (Chopin) and Pepsi; having a few now! Or unless I am out, Crown and pepsi. I call Crown and coke my social lubricant...... B)

Tube London's Transit System !!!!!!! Lincoln tunnel

Has this become an all the time issue? From your post it sounds as if it has only happened one time. Did you unlatch the seatbelt and relatch it a few times to confirm that the warning was indeed faulty, and that the seatbelt wasn't just poorly or improperly latched? Has the seat been moved back and fourth alot lately? The reason I ask is because sometimes the wires coming from the latch sensor can get bound up and when the seat is moved, it can pull the wires out or stress the connections. Also, I would maybe clean out the seat belt reciever with some electronics cleaner and see if maybe the contact is just dirty. Armour All and junk can get in there and build up over time. If you have tried all this and still the warning light stays on, then yes, I would imagine the seat belt sensor itself went bad. Although I have to say I think this is the first time I have heard this as a problem. I don't think you will be able to get that as an after market item.

venturi

The big "DUH" campaign? Yeah, that's gonna draw me right in.

Kiss Kiss----> The Movie. ( Remember that stuuuuuuuuupid movie they made? ) Foghat Slow Ride............

the headlight... theirs a bulb that is on when the headlights are on in the same capsule. looks like a 168 bulb.. its yellow color and just dont look good with the blue projector headlamps. Yeah, okay, I would get the 4 bulb for that. They have all the colors. If you have blue projectors then the blue LED's would look nice, but be careful, they might be tooo blue. I know here in Florida they cracked down an all that and it's against the law to be considered more blue than white. So maybe the white LED's would be a better choice? Anyway, yes they have 168 LED's there.

Yeah, I really like the Focal speakers! I don't think placing the speakers in the doors will be a good way to go. Would like to place the speakers where I can hear them, as opposed to where I just find the place for them. I will be removing the speakers in the rear deck to provide a place for the air from the woofers to get in to the main cabin. Thanks :) If you put both speakers in the front doors, I would try to isolate them from each other then. The acoustic back pressure inside the doors will only interfere with each other. That's why I suggested putting them in the rear doors. They would in effect have their own cabinet. And as for the rear deck, have you thought about just lowering the center arm rest and remove that skirt. You could build a thin frame out of wood and stretch a black acousticaly transparent fabric over it and fit it in there. That's what I did for mine. You can see the audio system I put in my car in the Dream Ride thread if you want. I get great bass, and I still get to keep the 6x9's in the deck.

Kiss Kiss----> The Movie. ( Remember that stuuuuuuuuupid movie they made? )

Freddy Mercury....("remember.....Flash......Gordon!!!")

Refrigerant oil is used to lubricate the internals of the ac system. Freon is an organic compound refrigerant. R-134a is the type of refrigerant. For example R-14 is Carbon tetraflouride. R-22 is Chlorodifluoromethane, and r-134a is 1,1,2-tetrafluorethane. I'm pretty sure you can get it there, and no it's not very expensive. I would get around 12 oz. there is no oil measurement system for ac oil. (Like a dip stick.) So, keep a container with you so how ever much you pour into that container will be how much oil you need to put back in the system. Yes. They should have a full o-ring replacement kit. cost will be nominal. 10-20 bucks. yes. yes. you will have to drain the radiator first. Do this by removing the bottom feed hose and opening the radiator cap. There should also be a drain plug at the bottom of the radiator. Open that. Once the radiator is drained you will probably need to drain the reservoir, or simply plug the line to save that fluid if you like. Yes and no.Removing it would make everything more accessable. If you need directions for that let me know, I have a seperate set of instructions for that. But no, it is possible to work around it. The ac system is a pressurized system. Simply opening the valve would be like puncturing a full spray can. Only this can would be 10x's larger. Discharging and evacuating the system are 2 different things. Discharging the system is removing the freon and decompressing the ac system. Evacuating the ac system is removing all the moisture in the system. Oh, I assumed you had the tools. If you don't, then this alone would blow the savings you would realize by doing it yourself. I use a Robinair charging station that costs $3,600.00 at the shop. The cheapest one I know of costs around 300 bucks. If you go to autozone they may have a 1-time use system that would cost less. But as for doing the evac. Forget it. there is no cheap evac systems. You could recharge without evacuating the system, but I wouldn't want you doing my ac then. That's a real risk. Yes. I would get a repair manual for the IS 300 and read up on this first. Sorry, the only PDF I have is in my head. I would make sure your comfortable with all of this. If you feel like your getting in over your head,,,,,dude, take the condenser you bought and go to a real repair shop and have them swap it out for ya. It might be worth the money to stay away from that headache and hassle. that's just my advice. If you choose to do this, I'll be here to try and help you all I can.

Spicy!! 12 pepper rub marinade

Are you talking about the interior light or the headlight?

Okay, here are the steps you'll need to replace the condenser. If your good with all of it, then ok. 1- You'll have to discharge the system first. 2- you will need to evac the system before you refill it with refrigerant also, any moisture at all in the system and you'll be replacing it all again shortly. 3- You'll need to remove the air filter housing. 4- Remove the radiator and protector covers. 5- Disconnect the refrigerant inlet and outlet lines from the condenser. 6- remove the accumulator brackets 7- remove the radiator brackets 8-Remove the side air deflectors from the condensor 9-You will need to put about 1 oz. refrigerant oil in the new condenser.<-----very important!!!! 10-use all new o-rings and coat them with refrigerant oil also. 11- when retightening the inlet and outlet lugs, make sure you go to exactly 71 in-lbs. To much and the tip will flare and leak, not enouph and the system will fail the pressure test and leak. 12- Now reverse all the removed components. 13- evac the system. When you get 26 inch Hg or more for 45 minutes, your ready. 14- leak test and recharge the system. While you have the system open I would also replace the rest of the refrigerant oil also. Seeing as how your there anyway.

Dude, I'd have CSI investigate that friggin accident!! Man, that urks me just reading about it.... I really feel for ya man...really. I know how I feel about my baby. About 3 days ago a customer came into my shop when I wasn't here. So when I pulled into the parking lot I saw they had waited for me in the lobby. I went inside and we dicussed business were finalizing the deal when I heard a car alarm go off. He said they have a kid waiting in the car and he probably just opened the door to get out and set it off, and went to go get him. They brought him inside and I saw the child was autistic. So we finished writting up the paper work and when we stepped outside I saw it right away. When the kid got out of the car he opened their door wide and dinged my driver side rear door. ( How do you approach this?) I internally screamed!!!!, So I pointed it out to them and what had happened. They were nice enouph and apologized. How could I be mad a child with autism? But I was *BLEEP*ED!!!! After they left, I couldn't help it. I called a ding and dent place, drove it there that after noon, and to my relief, he fixed it like it was never even there. I mean it came out perfect. I paid him the fifty bucks and added it to their bill. I consider myself very lucky. I owned a 1996 Mazda B2300, bright red, for 9 years. And never, not one ding, dent, or anything. I had this car a month......

Ok, now I would readjust the headlight back when you were turning the notched screw, so the light is aimed properly. I would park the car about 6-8 feet from a wall so you can see the center of the beam and determine the correct height, or going into a parking lot at night and adjusting it there so you can see the actual light pattern. the reason they have the reflective sides is because light has a very wide dispersal to it. think of a light bulb on a lamp, it just throws light in all directions. So the reflective housing is used to focus that light into a more usable pattern. The reflective cap in the head light is to make sure all the light is actually reflected and controlled. When I blacked out my headlights, ( The Dream Ride thread in this forum has pics if you want to see what they look like.), I painted everything except the parts that are used to reflect the light. The rest of the housing is actually just chromed to match, and has nothing to do with reflecting the light. B)

Preparation Al Dente....... Pasta (Frutta Di Mare) siete sicuri della vostra lingua italiana anti pasta

Preparation Al Dente.......

mise en place

I just like hearing you say that........ ;)

<------consumer

pro

bum deal