smooth1

tacos

Hello all. I have returned with news. I am going with a turbo after all. Here's the deal. I was looking into the Powerdyne supercharger. It's a self contained supercharger,( no drilling for oil lines and hence runs cooler etc.etc.) The problem is : I would have to make my own mounting brackets. - Not that big of a deal. But the last time I did that I said that was the last time I would do that. It's still a belt driven system. ( Harder on the motor, and with belts come problems.) With a supercharger in order to get the hp I'm looking for I would have to run 14 psi or more. At first I was ok with this, but after looking at the cost of replacing the top end also it quickly became an issue. Removing the VVTi is not the route I prefer. I want to be able to bypass the forced induction and be able to "switch" it on and off when I want. the turbo definately has an advantage here. So it will be turbo after all. And just so everyone knows I'm not changing my mind again. I have ordered the following: Stage 2 turbo Evolution Wastegate Raptor B.O.V. Spearco Front mount Intercooler 6- 380 cc. fuel injectors Unichip EMS Cast Ductile Exhaust Manifold Charging Pipe 3" down pipe Cat-back exhaust T.B.D. I'll probably start seeing the parts come in over the next few weeks. For those of you who have boost on an IS 300, if there are any heads up tips, it would be nice to hear, or any input at all. I will be posting pics along the way as usual.

Grits <_<

Poridge

I think in general, domestic cars have a dorky sterile look to them. Nothing in the line ups create passion, save for a few like the vette. The rest are all "retro" hot rod's, or my "mom's and dad's family truckster" style. GM's car line up is sick looking, and Ford hasn't made a 4-door I would own in years. Dodge has the 300, but getting a Dodge comes with owning a Dodge. My dad races Ford Mustangs. I will say that Ford has built itself on thier racing programs over the years. We're pushing 850 rwhp and just last weekend clocked 8.94 in the 1/4's. Over the years wev'e blown very few Ford motors, and their tranny's are mega strong. I have a video of me in a 2003 Ford Explorer with a 600+ rwhp V-6 taking a Pontiac GTO LS-2 in the 1/4. Afterwards he came over and said "That was embarrasing." LOL! He was a good guy. We talked awhile afterwards. My biggest question has allways been, do the Domestic auto engineers look at the cars they make and say "WOW!, what a good looking car!" ? And then get in their Lexus and go home?

okay, we have to get on the same plane here. When you say "shift late", at what rpm is it shifting from 1-2-3-4-5? Is it bumping the rev limiter? College huh? better save all your money then. No power mods for you until graduation and you get a real job! Maybe mom and dad put a governor on your IS 300? :P Seriously, here's a "back yard" dyno run test for ya. Do you have a video cam corder? While your at a dead stop, put the camera on and aim it the speedometer. Then drive it like you just jumped in and stole it. Later when you get home play the tape back and use a stop watch. Tell me your times after that and we'll see if there is a problem or if your just power hungry. :)

soap opera

us

Yeah, but I think the problem is that you can't get a 2002 or newer ES for under 10k can you? I think for 10k your in the 98-00 range at most, if your going to keep the mileage reasonable.

Alaskan King Crab

You say youv'e had the car a month? And you said it was an 01'? How many miles are on the car and when was the car last serviced? If you "feel" there is a problem in the upper RPM range, then I would start with some of the "inexpensive" and easy fixes first, then move up from there. For example have you checked the air filter? And also check the rest of the intake and make sure there are no air blockages. Lack of air intake will effect the upper rpm range more than the lower as more air is required. If they have used an after market air filter that requires oiling, look in the intake after the filter and see if the oil has coated the inside of the intake. Usually it will effect the idle speed also, but not allways. Also, I have found this trick to be especially true for these cars as they get older. You might want to check the throttle cable connection on the throttle body for "extra play." See how much slack there is in the cable. there should be no more than a 1/4 inch of play there. Any more than that and when you're pressing the gas pedal your not really fully opening the throttle then. You'll see there are tensioners for adjusting the cable. But I have found where even those don't give enouph adjustment. If that's the case then you'll have to shorten the cable. Also you may have a blockage in the catalytic converters, or somewhere along the exhaust. If you find nothing there, then what I like doing, I don't normally recommend this to others, but over the years I have found it to be helpful to me in forming a complete picture of the car I have, and it only costs between 50-75 bucks. But go and get the car dyno'd. Make sure it has an exhaust sniffer and gives rear wheel horse power and not just flywheel. You should get 3 pulls. This will tell you if your running to rich, or to lean, how much hp. and torque your really making and where your peaking in the rev's. After you have that in your hand you will know exactly what needs to be done to get all you can out of that motor.

Florida Rock Shrimp

HHhmmm, depends on what you mean by no accelearation. The IS 300 produces most of it's torque down low. That's why it moves off the line as quickly as it does with little trouble. The issue is that there isn't much left once you get to the top of the rev range. So my question back to you is that are you saying there is a mechanical problem with the car, or that there isn't anything left for additional power higher in the rev range?

rainbow trout

ohhhh yeaahh, well, today is garlic smoked mozzarrella sauce over hand cut pepperoni's on a 7 grain cracker. :P

When you first hit the key fob for the driver door to open, do you hear any mechanical movement, or do you hear nothing at all? If you hear mechanical movement in the lock, it could be stuck, and you may need to remove the inner door panel and adjust, lube or replace one of the linkages parts. If you hear nothing at all, it may be the relay unit itself. In which case you would have to replace the door lock relay. You may want to start with some of the easy fixes first, like checking the fuse, making sure all the electrical connections are in proper order, the battery in the key, etc. etc.

Bass

northern pike

I previously said : Incandescent bulbs acheive "warm white" by having the glass housing coated in white. The actual light is still in the 3000-3500k range. When sufficient voltage is applied to the chip across the leads of the LED, electrons can move easily in only one direction across the junction between the p and n regions. In the p region there are many more positive than negative charges. In the n region the electrons are more numerous than the positive electric charges. When a voltage is applied and the current starts to flow, electrons in the n region have sufficient energy to move across the junction into the p region. Once in the p region the electrons are immediately attracted to the positive charges due to the mutual Coulomb forces of attraction between opposite electric charges. When an electron moves sufficiently close to a positive charge in the p region, the two charges "re-combine". Each time an electron recombines with a positive charge, electric potential energy is converted into electromagnetic energy. For each recombination of a negative and a positive charge, a quantum of electromagnetic energy is emitted in the form of a photon of light with a frequency characteristic of the semi-conductor material (usually a combination of the chemical elements gallium, arsenic and phosphorus). Only photons in a very narrow frequency range can be emitted by any material. LED's that emit different colors are made of different semi-conductor materials, and require different energies to light them. Notice I said usually uses gallium, arsenic and phosphorus. The chemicals elements used are what determines the light frequency. As I don't know of any elements at this time that they are using to emit such a wide array of light spectrum as you had mentioned. ( 4000k-5000k and 6000k-7000k) Phillips is on the verge of being able to do that.Philips Lumileds has developed a new phosphor technology, Lumiramic, developed jointly by the company's Advanced Laboratories in San Jose and Philips Research in Europe. Luxeon products that use the new technology are expected in early 2008, and sampling programs will begin with customers in the lighting community in the fourth quarter of 2007. Lumiramic phosphor technology enables targeted production of white LEDs to specific correlated color temperatures (CCT) on the black-body curve. This will result in high volume availability in the most desired color temperatures. Lumileds says that by utilizing the new technology it may reduce the number of fine bins at a given CCT by 75% or more. This in turn should greatly simplify the efforts of the lighting community, which has asked the LED industry to reduce the variation in white LEDs and more effectively enable luminaire-to-luminaire consistency. Lumiramic phosphor technology utilizes a ceramic phosphor plate in combination with the company's new Thin Film Flip Chip (TFFC) technology. The Lumiramic plates are being manufactured at Philips phosphor factory in Maarheeze, The Netherlands. Unfortunately, this is all running behind schedule and the first LED's won't run until mid next year. I agree 75% of the time. The production of white LED's is still not consistant enouph to make this a blanket statement. They have only improved the color quality, and intensity. Therre is still inconsistancy from one LED to the next. That is why Phillips is working on it so hard now, and in the next few years we will begin to see more LED lighting in our lives. Think about it like this, an LED is approximately 200 x's more efficient than an incandescant light bulb, LED's have been around for 80+ years, yet, nobody has an LED lamp in their living room. WHY? The LED uses 1.7 volts. Everything else in your car uses 12 volts. So, a .5 volt fluctuation is only a slight dip to those items but almost a third of the resistance for an LED. I agree, but I also noted that the use of white LED's appears to be in the areas that can easily be accessed and changed. The gauge clusters can be done without removing the dash. The center console however is much more complicated to access. I also stated that this was an observation. I have no factual base for that. Also, to sum this up, I also like the look of white LED's. I'm going to change mine over also. But as I am also about to put a supercharger and intercooler in my Lexus, I understand that the life of the motor may be shortened a bit, my fuel mileage will suffer, and it will be a little louder than stock. But 450 hp. is just to good to pass up. The price we pay for modifying. But we want we we like. We're in this together brother. I feel ya. B)

power stroke

NOx

fuel

candle

your welcome, glad I could help.