smooth1

that actually sounds like a really good idea, except my trunk is tiny and i won't have room for other things :( i think i'm just going with the 16's and ignore the warnings.... It fits in the spare tire compartment right on top of the spare tire thats in there. I think the mini trailor tire is about 12 inches across total. I just deflated it, pushed the tire bead in and slid all the sensors inside it. Then reinflated the tire. I had to add air to the mini about 1 or 2 times a year, but it worked great. Then I got the TPMS elbow extenders for my rims and later was able to have them reinstalled so I don't need to do that anymore.

Just start a new account and abandon this one.

What color paint and decals? Black with white decals. Figure it might look like ghost decals floating in there. :D So is this done yet? Wheres the pics? Slacker....! LOL!!

You can also buy a 30 dollar mini trailor tire from Walmart. Throw the sensors in there and pump the tire up to 36 or so psi and put it in your trunk.

First, all stock suspensions on cars have a variance of about 1/4 inch to 3/4 of an inch. I've seen a few with a bit more but those are more the exception to the rule than the norm. The reason is the stock struts and springs can settle differently from each other, and the corners of the car may weighted differently. For example the left side of the car with you in it will weigh more than the right side without a passenger. Next, did you change the offest of the rims, or go with a wider rim? what was your stock size tire compared to your tire size now?

Especially seeing as how the Audi name has much more "prestige" for the same dollars.

sorry but, u have already post a new topic on ur FLOOR MAT issue, please discuss it there, many ppl here are having CLUTCH & FLYWHEEL problems and please delete ur post, thank you !! What in earths creation is this post about? Are you lost?

Is there a problem with the stock tach?

Welcome to the LOC folks. :)

The lol "Shop of hacks!"" LOL!! Great job. The afters look awsome!

Actually my 07 NISMO 350z has passed MANY Porches easily on the track. And I had street tires while they had slicks. Don't under estimate the Z. That's driver not car. I'll take a 911 GT3 to your Gizmo any day.

Dude........... Haven't you read my thread at the top of this forum?

Yeah, nice garage, but I don't think that Nissan is going to be passing very many Porsches, unless they are broke down on the side of the highway. LOL!!

It must be some mechanical fault, maybe power steering pump or its belt, scanner would show error when there would be defect in electronic... He doesn't have a Toyota scanner to get into the EPAS system. I would imagine he can't pull ABS codes, or engine management systems either. So how do we know there aren't any codes?

I'm not defending Lexus here, I just want to point out something. Click on the links below and you'll see what I mean. Unintended acceleration issue #1 Unintended acceleration issue #2 Unintended acceleration issue #3 Unintended Acceleration issue #4, 5, 6, and 7 And my biggest issue is more with the NHTSA themselves. How when the national spotlight is on this accident, they decide to put on thier stage costumes and walk around the crash sites with gavels in hand, yet with THOUSANDS of documented cases of the Ford spark plug spitting issue they just turn thier backs, citing this is not a safety issue, but made Honda recall 55,000 cars for a possible engine stalling issue? and where were they for the GM ABS brake failure issue? which until the fed launched a probe did they finally agree to do thier investigation 4 years after the fact that resulted in a 1.2 million unit recall by GM? And I'll bet most people never even knew anything or heard about these other incidents. Like the people that died in the 98 Lincoln. I'm sorry, but I'm just really suspicious of the whole NHTSA and anything they have to say about anything really. So sure, everyone wants to hear that Toyota/Lexus is responsible for this accident so we can have a public lynching. But if this comes to light that it is, then what about all the rest of the car makers? What about Ford that was actually found to have a problem? As this seems to have been a problem since the early 80's and with all car makers. Let's not forget that this dates back to when throttle systems were mechanical, and not in any way controlled by a computer. The gas pedal was directly connected via a "throttle cable" and people claimed this issue occurred even back then. Not to mention that most car makers all use a different system, but all seem to have this same problem. So what does that say about our NHTSA then? Maybe they are the problem here and not just Toyota should be held at fault here. The whole media thing just reeks to me. Isn't it funny the timing and how the media has chosen to handle this? Hmmm, the governement that now has a huge interest in GM/Chrysler and a waining domestic market sure could use a nice media circus to help bring down the big import market some about now. Maybe if they could figure out a way to drag this out for a while................sure couldn't hurt huh?

Then switch from the stock rotors to slotted, not drilled, rotors. The increased ability to dissapate the outgassing during braking will really help alot under hard braking. And to be honest, I would get rid of/return the shocks, take that money and the couple hundred you r going to spend on springs and buy a set of Tien, Tenabe, or Megan coilovers. Then you can adjust the stiffness of the shocks as well as tune the ride height so you can balance the car. Yes, lowering the car will help, but why settle for that one adjustment when for about the same money you can have so much more? Especially since your doing real track time. Coilovers are tuned so the strut and spring work together. And you can dial in some grip issues and cornering by adjusting the stiffness of the struts and ride height for some very significant results. And if you have a manual, then work on upgrading the clutch later.

When was the last time you, or the previous owner replaced the suspension components? I'm a little surprised by master technician chestnutlane as the fact that your car is now 15 years old and probably way past due for a complete suspension overhaul was completely overlooked. Your at a time when it's probably not going to be any one component that is causing your trouble. The control arms, struts, ball joints, bushings, bearings, steering linkage, boots, mounts, springs, etc, etc, are all worn together. When your car is sitting on the rack being aligned, there are no outside forces on the car. So putting the car in spec isn't the issue. As you begin to drive the car, the suspension as a whole is worn out, so it's sagging and flexing out of spec causing your tire wear issues. When the car comes back to a stop, LOL,, when it matters the least, the car is back in spec. Just replacing the struts might fix it for about 6 months, but the rest of the worn suspension will just wear that new strut out faster and you'll be right back where you started. If you putting 150 miles a day on your car for over a year and a half , then you've put an additional 55,000 miles on the car atleast just in the time you've owned it. So I would imagine that the overall mileage on the car is quite high by now. As metals flex they heat up and cool down, expand and contract. And can even become brittle. Weather conditions and road salts eat away at the polyurathane and rubber compounds. bearings begin to gap, and seize. Most of this isn't detectable by a visual inspection. And just measuring backlash alone won't tell you the overall state of your suspension. Your at the cost verses time crossroads. Are you going to keep the car for more years to offset the suspension replacement? or is it cheaper to just keep replacing tires until you get rid of the car? there are plenty of how to's here so you can probably save a boat load of money if you decide to do the work yourself. That is really the only cost effective way I can see doing this for a 15 year old car. But you could also be one of those people that will own a car for the rest of your life. If that's the case, then it's even more worth doing.

Are you going to keep the car on the street also? I would put a slightly larger sway bar set up on it, but honestly, your money is going to be much better spent on better brakes and rotors, along with some steel braided brake lines and a transmission cooler. Really. I wouldn't waste your money on alot of other things until you do those first. I've been racing for 24 years now. The better brakes will have the largest inpact on your lap times, and the transmission cooler will keep your car on the road alot longer. Then make sure you take everything you can take out of the car and make the car as light as you can. The rear seat for example just pops out, and 4 screws removes the rest of it. Pull the spare tire out and all the other stuff out of the trunk. etc. etc. etc. All cheap, and really the most effective way to go faster around the track. I would even pull the stereo system out and the speakers. and all the lining and sound deadening materials. Also, make sure the throttle cable on the intake doesn't have alot of slack in it. Can you modify the air intake at all? For some reason I'm thinking in the ST class you have to have the stock intake, but you can use an aftermarket filter medium like K&N or Blitz. So atleast do that.

What metal brackets are you referring to? IF your talking about the flat metal piece that sits between the brake pad and the brake piston, it's called a brake shim. And those are what help stop the brake squeal. That and some anti squeal goop should be all it takes to quiet those down. What brake pads are you using?

Congrats! Great choice.

They are only taking orders for this year. They aren't actually beginning production until dec of 2010, and even then they are only going to make 20 cars a month for 25 months. That's 500 cars total for the entire world, and base price is us $350,000.00 before you begin doing all those nice options. I would have a better chance at catching farts in the wind then getting one of these! The original reports on this car was that it was going to be about $150,000, and much higher production numbers. While I agree it's a beautiful car, I would really need to see the performance numbers to change my mind about the Nissan GTR's performance for around $80K.

I really don't know nor can I explain the issue with your car. 4k miles is nothing. And your having the same issue again? My first thought is maybe you don't know how to operate a manual? But then I think how could some one destroy 2 clutches in 4k miles each? And your right, the stock set up should be able to easily handle "spirited" take off's and driving, with the occasional mis-shifts and oh sh!%$. as a buffer. And I also can't help but think about all the manuals that have been sold in the US and while I do here a small percentage of complaints, I would think that by now there would be a huge uprising regarding this as it would be happening to alot more people every 5-10k miles. With the expense of this issue, Lexus would have had to issue a recall for sure by now. So my advice is sell it before the clutch goes out again and get a different car.

I think you may have a tach issue that is creating the other light sensor issues. When the tach fails, ie: shorting out, going bad, whatever, you may be getting a voltage drain or flux that may be effecting some of the circuits next to it. which could be the two other issues that appear at the same time. There is also a wire harness that runs along the trunk that the factory was known to have wrapped way to tight and I have seen some strange issue spawn from that. You might want to check that out as well. But in any case, I think this isn't something that we would be able to diagnose and fix over the forums. You should probably take it in and show them what is going on. It might be worth tracking down and just getting it fixed before it starts to decay into other issues as well.

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Your going to want to be down around 32mm offsets then. If your dropping the car, then you will have to roll the fenders also, or you will rub. theres no getting around that. That's why I went with 40 mm, as that was the most you can go without rolling the fenders and dropping the car. Even though you get a little camber relief there, the front tires will rub when you turn, or hit a bump that causes the suspension to flex more than about 1/2 to 3/4's. If your not going to lower the car much if at all, then you might be able to get away without rolling the fenders.