smooth1

And let us not forget that " 1960's deep fryer heating element " inspired grill.

Well, the car is electronically limited to 155 mph. And the article I read had mentioned that there is an L package that upgrades the interior, adds sat. nav., and exhaust and badging. I think the pictures are "well equipped", and the price quoted are for that car. So I would imagine that the price goes up maybe another 5 grand? And the Evo and STI's are only on the 35 range. 55 grand buys alot of car.

Rolling Stone Magazine

attic

The red one has really nice rims, don't ya think?

Gigabyte

So Toyota has officially launched TRD as a new manufacturing line. It is supposed to be like AMG for Mercedes in the world line. The first car is the TRD Aurion 3500S and is available in Aust. only for now. I think it's a great looking car! 323 HP, 297 torque, 0-62 in 6 sec.( Seems slow for the amount of HP they post.) And why they don't offer it here is beyond me. But I will say this. The Aussies are getting robbed I think. According to what I read, this car costs $61,500 AUD. That's $49,400.00 in US Dollars. Heck for that you can get the Lexus IS-F that's coming out. The things that make you go Hmmmmm.

Hard Drive

computer

sneeze

ciggarette

Anytime....it was nice meeting you. Come by anytime. Hope to see ya around the boards B)

ALpha

Oh yeah, I do all my own work. I graduated UTI in 93' and ASE certification 94-96. My dad made me in order to work in his shop. But I have since gone another route and now I just work on our race cars and my personal for fun.

1800 Cuervo never again...........

With 4 jack stands, and a few wrenches should take no more than 4 hours. You may need a spring tensioner tool. But that's about it. If your only dropping it an inch you may not need to recamber, but I recomend it. Just take it to a shop and have them do it. ( I doubt you have a CDS laser or an optilign sitting in your garage. You can do it by hand, but you'll be guessing, and that's no way to do it. It's worth the 70 bucks.

the SRT system is probably the best Cold Air Intake, but it does it by using a piggy back ECU program chip that you solder into your exsisting ECU. It's the only one that goes that far that I know of. The rest are a waste of time and money. They have more sound than go. realistically you will see about 7-10 hp at the rear wheel. You'll feel that, but if you go this route, then all that's left is an exhaust system. Maybe 10 ponies there. Then you'll have pretty much maxed out the hp gains you can get. there just isn't much out there without going forced induction. Which is where I'm going. I just finished researching the turbo I want. I'm ordering it this week. I can hardly wait!!!!

I have found that the weight of the rim is in direct proportion to the dollars spent x's 100. <_< It's stupid how much rims can get. But, you gotta do what you gotta do. It's good that you like the stock rims. You can save that money and spend it somewhere else on the car then. ;) and you have a dog that chews on rims?????? I have to ask,,, what kind of dog do you have?

I like the attention the flame red draws. Even from a distance you can see them. But that's me. Black would be cool too. Maybe Black with silver Lexus emblems would be really cool also. Are you staying with the stock rims or do you plan on going with custom rims also?

My dad and I have raced cars for 30+ years. We've blown up our share of motors, and I have disassembled and rebuilt countless motors. AMSOIL is the best. The quality of thier detergents are just amazing and don't break down. We put 200 hours on our last motor with no problems. the motor produced 285 HP stock and now produces over 850. Anyone in racing will tell you 200 hours is A-lot. Mburnikas is also right about changing the brake fluid. It's not really about the fluid breaking down, it's about moisture in the lines and reservoir. Also because the car is more than 5 years old I would replace the radiator fluid,and do a fuel system cleaning. If gas sat in the tank along time there could be alot of tarnish on the valves, and injectors. One other thing I would do is a tranny fluid change. Do that every 30,000 miles. It will prevent the tranny fluid from thermal breakdown and pitting the gears and speedbands etc.etc. Once they get pitted and space, then you have to stay with the same fluid from then one. I would skip the warranty. There are many ways for a warranty to screw you out of money. For example, you take the car to the dealer and they "hear something in the motor". The warranty won't pay for "exploratory diagnostics." So that will come out of your pocket. Then say they find that the flywheel needs to be replaced. ( I know, this is just an example.) Lexus may charge 1200 bucks for that part, but the warrantee payout may only be 800. You'll have to pay the difference AFTER the deductible. Also, most warrantee's only allow for a certain amount of "labor per hour". So if Lexus charges 150 an hour, but the warrantee only pays 65 an hour, again the difference will come out of your pocket. I'm not saying all warrantees are the exact same, but most of them sell on the basis that most people won't even think of these questions. You have to ask very specific questions when it comes to the quality of some of these "extended warrantees." Nice purchase by the way. Definately a diamond in the rough.

wow... I've never seen an SUV with downsyndrom before. so, would that be an "intard" V-6?

Trusted manufacturers of Lambo doors? In my experience, it usually isn't the manufacturer you have to trust but the installer. That's where you run into problems.

I haven't seen anything in Yellow. Red, blue or black is all I've seen in stock. MSD, NGK or Magnacor. Other than that you'll probabaly have to make them yourself.

The headlight housing isn't a sealed enclosure anyway. So you really don't have to worry about it to much. But you should still try and seal it all the way around. I did mine over 6 months ago. I live in steamy Florida, and thru the "rainy" season and no problems at all.

Alcholics Anonimous