smooth1

I was looking into it. I don't think it's as easy as just switching the controls. The traction control system registers with the vehicle everytime it starts up. I think if you reverse the connection you'll throw up a cell saying there is a problem with the TCS everytime you start the car. So, you would have to be able to override that also, which means you would have to do some ecu work.

I would go to Lojack.com or call Lojack directly and just confirm registration. If it's registered, then it's done.

Until a few years ago, ArmorAll was horrible for plastic and vinyl because it had chemicals in it that would suck the moisture out, causing your colors to fade and the plastic to crack. There's debate now as to whether or not the problems have been solved, but I still refuse to use it on my car due to negative experiences. I know it was still causing problems as of 4-5 years ago, I don't know about the current formula. Well, if you go back far enouph, your right in that they didn't incorperate the use of a quality UV protectant. So by using any of the dash or vinyl care products was actually like rubbing yourself down in baby oil and deep frying yourself under the sun at the beach. As UVA and UVB inhibitors have gotten significantly better over the years, so has the level of protection in just about all the dash protectants out there today. In the beginning the theory was to keep moisture in the material would help stop it from cracking. They all have learned that doesn't work. I don't know if you have noticed or not, but most of the products now don't feel like WD-40 on your dash anymore. Remember those days? Now they actually dry, and leave a touchable surface behind. So, they all are getting better. I think it's all about personal brand preference and how much gloss you like.Some products put a super high gloss on your dash, and then there is "natural finish", and semi gloss, etc.etc.

Do you still need help with this?

You can also try : http://www.vaistech.com/sli.html It's better than the other options you mentioned.

Ok, the only standard options on that year RX was AM/FM, and CD changer. Everything above that was a step option. In other words you can get the DVD player as a sole upgrade, the second row control units as a sole upgrade, the subwoofer as a sole upgrade etc.etc. So, what upgraded options did your RX come with? And BTW, yeah, ML systems are not noted for their bass capabilities. I tend to think the whole ML thing is a little overrated. But that's opinion.

Sounds to me like a Mark Levinson factory programming error. I completely agree with you Krisspin. I have in my living room, a ML No. 37 CD transport. cost: $ 4,800.00 I have a ML No. 39 CD processor. cost: $5,500.00. For that kind of money I expect the best. You should also. If I were you I would contact Mark Levinson and inquire down that route. they would be able to provide real answers as the techs at the Lexus dealerships are mechanics, not electrical engineers. I don't think they will offer a fix for the problem as I think the format has already been established, but maybe knowing why or what circumstances are creating this issue would help. One other note, I do tend to believe that they must take cost cutting measures along the way. For a complete audio system for your home by ML, you would spend atleast 50-60K and could go up to 100K if you went into the S line. So, if ML were to completely intergrate that technology fully and employ it, the audio system in your car would be in the neigborhood of 25k just by itself. I promise you that Lexus is not spending that kind of dollars on the audio system alone. They have taken quite few cost saving measures in order to be able to provide a Premere audio system. Think of the writer that puts forth their writing efforts, but has it sent back by the editors over and over again until the writer gives the editor what they want. Never the less, an expensive system and car like the Lexus should easily display such a trivial data label.

dude for sure on the echo....dude for sure on the echo....dude for sure on the echo..... lol thing looks like a damn mouse!! lol!! You know, I have an issue with these low budget cars. Why do they have to make them look like ugly toy cars? I mean take for example the Porche 911. It's a hundred and fifty thousand dollar car, not because of the shape of the car. Because of the engine, suspension, R&D, and all that stuff that go in the car. It doesn't cost any more to make that shape of a car or any other shape of a car. So Kia could make a car the shape of a Ferrari GTO, but still make it a Kia, and sell it for 15 grand. I guess they don't want us to like the looks of the budget cars to keep us buying the higher price ones, but if I were building a new car company, that's what I would be doing. I would be mugging all the best auto designs in history and putting my company name on em. I look at it this way, if you had the choice of buying a Nissan Sentra for 13 grand, or a Kia X ( that looked like a slightly smaller Bentley Continental GT) for the same money, which one would you get? Ok, Toyota Echo added to list.

It's unusual to hear of a radio going out like that. In other words just totally dead. Generally a channel will go out, or the display will stop operating etc.etc. Not the whole unit itself. which means it's probably just your amp if it's a seperate unit. I would just get a new amp first. Also, did you check to see if there are fuses in the amp? Amps can get real hot, so they usually go first.

did you see how much they were asking for it? Did you get any pics?

Ok, we have: Suzuki X-90 Ford Taurus Pontiac Azrec Subaru Tribeca ( now confirmed by second nomination) Hyundai Santa Fe BMW Z3 Ford Focus ( now confirmed by a second nomination) but still need a pic. Isuzu Vehicross ( now confirmed by second nomination) notable candidates are: Honda Element Scion XB Dodge Neon Toyota Echo Chrysler PT Cruiser

lory ( or is it lori?)

If you can get the refund for the fabric and paint protection, do it. And don't give up until they do. Those are such a rip off. The fact that anyone can look you in the eye and tell you that there is some "secret process" and chemical conconction that you can't do yourself for under a hundred bucks deserves the plaid salesman suites they wear!!!! Here's a few things to consider. Scotchgaurd is sold everywhere, for what 6 bucks a can? It has it's pro's and cons. It does help repel water, but it uses a wax parafin to do it. That's what holds the liquid up. But the bad part is that it attracts dirt. Dirt particles actually cling to it and that is 80% of your normal use problem. Unless you spill coffe and soda in your car regularly. It doesn't last that long either, maybe a few weeks at most, as stepping on it and vacumming it will break down the barrier. I have actually found that the water repellant spray for shoes and jackets and such works better and lasts longer with fewer dirt attraction problems. There are two, and only two, forms of protection: carnauba waxes and paint sealants. Car Waxes are the traditional, natural, time tested form of protection for cars; paint sealants are newer to the scene—chemically formulated to do the same thing as a car wax. What's the difference? Carnauba car wax produces an enviable deep, wet healthy shine that you can't attain with a sealant. However, car waxes have a melting point that is easily reached in very warm climates, have limited longevity (eight to twelve weeks), and are typically more difficult to apply and buff off than paint sealants. Paint sealants are formulated to mimic the level of depth and wetness that a good car wax produces, but just a select few can even come close, in my opinion. On the other hand, today's paint sealants (the quality ones) last six to eight months(!), and will not melt, wash off or wear away.Wolfgang, Klasse, Collinite, and maybe a few other. Even these are at most 35 bucks a bottle and will cover your car 4 or 5 times.

Flush

Here ya go Flop, use this the next time you see one:

Oh, I just realized I never officially entered the Hyundai Santa Fe. I nominate the Hyundai Santa Fe

Awsome,,, ok,,,the nominations thus far are: Pontiac Azrec Hyundai Santa Fe Subaru Tribeca BMW Z3 Others have yet to be fully nominated.

tomb

we need nominations and votes from here on out. Let's see once and for all. So Cory nominates the Ford Taurus. Which model years? Can you post a pic? Then we can see, judge and vote.

are you gonna add some switches to that bad boy?

Let me begin with I don't doubt you in the least. But my only conclusion is that you had a bad can of either black or clear. I have painted countless engine blocks, heads, bays, brake calipers, sway bars, you name it. The only problem I ever ran into was clear coat "crinkling" the paint. But that happened because they painted it with lacquer, then tried to clear coat it. Hey, atleast they didn't turn purple or pink on ya!!!!

well, I think you have to diagnose the exact problem before you can determine wether or not this is something you can fix or if in fact you will need to take it in. When you push the switch do you hear anything? Does the window move at all? Use a plastic putty knife and slide it under the button console and pry it upwards. The whole unit just lifts out of there. Then switch the connectors for the passenger side and driver side and see if the driver side still doesn't work. If the passenger side now doesn't work then it's the switch, and thats an easy fix. If the driver side still doesn't work, then you may have a driver side window motor gone out. That involves remove the door panel, disconnecting the wire harnesses and pulling out the motor, then putting it all back in. So the question is: Is that something your can do and feel comfortable with? If not, then take it in and have them fix it for you.

L-Tuned makes a nice muffler that isn't too loud, but I heard a Tanabe Medalion Touring muffler that sounded great!!!! Not loud, very deep and mellow. I was impressed for a straight thru design to be so quiet. There is a silencer in there, but you just can't have max air flow, and quiet. It's one or the other. You kind of have to determine how far you can live with going. And yes they make aluminum units for every car, but I wouldn't waste any money on that for along time. You have alot of "speed needs" to get to first.

What I did was waxed the plastic cover with car wax first. ( Use a good wax, not a cheap on, as the cheap ones don't contain enouph wax. Then I used black duct tape and taped it all off. try to keep it to one layer, you'll get a tight fit that way. Once I had an even layer of tape on the inside of the tire cover I car waxed the tape. This time though I just applied the wax and left it all on. Then I used a brush and applied the resin, then I applied the glass sheets.( I would cut them into like 3'' strips to make it easy to work with.) Make sure you fiberglass about 4'' around the top flat area. In other words, fiberglass the vertical cylinder part, and the horizontal top area. That way when you put the MDF board over the top you can drill holes thru it to attach the MDF face. I used 1" thick MDF for the weight and to stop any vibrations. ( it worked). As for the fiberglas I used about 3 layers of resin and glass. ( By the way, JL audio has the smallest enclosure space needed that I could find. Not to mention it's a JL Audio triple voice coil sub. Nothing else really needs to be said.) Once the fiberglass set up, I pulled it out and removed all the duct tape. Then I predrilled the holes in the fiberglass and the MDF and I sanded the top nice and flat so there wouldn't be any leaks. then I used some fiber fill and put some inside the box, used 2 part epoxy along the sanded lip, and screwed the MDF to the fiberglass. Oh, I drilled a hole for the speaker wire to come out, and used a rubber gromet to seal that hole. I also used 3M Super 77 adhesive spray and charcoal vinyl and covered the MDF to finish it.

well, yeah, that little crack really sucks. Do you know how that happened? I would at first try using a 2 part epoxy. Use some masking tape and cover the painted area first. then mix the epoxy and fill it in. I would try and reach up behind the bumper and push that piece out and with your other hand push it in at the same time to make it fit in there as tight as possible. Then I would use another piece of tape to hold it in place until the epoxy dries. Once it dries, peel the tape off and see if you can live with it. ( I would try if I were you. Metallic paint is very hard to match anytime you have to drag a brush on it.) But if you want to fix it more, then I would use the Lexus touch up paint and pour some into a small cap or cup, and then with an artist paint brush, make a sieres of dots along the crack. Don't stroke the brush on it. Then leave it to dry. When you come back you'll see the paint sunk in to the crack, so do the small dot thing a few times until it fills the cracks. It should be small enouph that nobody would ever notice unless you told them about it.