RockysDad

I think my rear valve cover is leaking a bunch and dripping on the exhaust manifold and smelling up the joint and I want to replace it. The problem is that its against the firewall and a pain to get to. I think it might be best to remove the upper intake and stuff. Has anyone done this before? Any tips or tricks you care to share? I did take a quick look and it seems that there are a couple of bolts that are impossible to get to. Is this true? Its not very straight forward if you ask me. I have a '93 ES300. TIA...

I found the ones in the rear and it indeed was clogged. Its funny that the passenger side footwell was flooded but the driver side drain tube was clogged. When I cleared that one about another pint of water drained out. Imagine. I had that much water flooded over my head all this time... Thanks again for all your help. Now I need to look for the ones in the front just in case...

Okay, I've search around a bit and found out that the sunroof drain tubes could be clogged. So now I want to clean them out. I think I know how but exactly where do you find the drain tubes? It seems that they are hidden behind the rear bumper covers and the front firewall. So how are people running wire through them and/or shooting compressed air when they aren't even visible or easy to get to. Are they taking the rear bumper covers off or even the headliners? So what's the trick???? Any tips or pics are welcome also...

x2 for KYBs. Order them on-line and then bring them to your indy mechanic. You'll just pay for labor that way. Big difference in ride and handling BTW...

It's driving me crazy! I have a massive problem when it rains. It seems that just the rear passenger side footwell gets flooded every time it rains. I don't mean just damp but at least 2" of water collects there. I've closed off any openings on the roofline gutters and rear trunk side gutters with silicon and had no luck. I ended up lifting the carpet and drilling a few holes just to let some of the water drain. I think I will now go and pull that rubber plug in the middle of the floor pan to help things out. For the life of me, I can't figure out how the water is coming in. I've sat in the car with running the garden hose and watched the water collect but can't see where it is coming in from. It seems that there is a crack in the floor plan but does that matter? I tried patching that with roofing tar. Any ideas or has anyone else have this problem? I've got a 1993 ES300.

Attached is one of the pages I mentioned. I think your page is more detailed and all on one page. It does indicate that with the relay removed the Door Open Light should go OFF. I guess the R/Y is shorted to ground somewhere huh? I guess I could remove the relay. It also has the chime to tell you the key is in the ignition. Useful but not required. The dome light is OFF and the only things that are draining the battery are the ignition key ring (bulb), dash light (bulb) and the outside key hole (LED). But all of this did drain the battery after a week without driving. I might just remove it like you said... Thanks... door_switch.pdf

First of all I'm sorry I can't quite figure out how to get a printout of the schematic that I have since its in a pdf format. I'll have to get it to you on Monday when I'm at work. Anyway if we are looking at the same manual the test I did came from page BE-33 of my manual which has a spreadsheet on how to test the pinouts on the juction box 1 where the integration relay plugs into. It has A6 (pin 6) is where the door courtesy switches should be going into the relay box. But this is where I am getting confused. BE-85 shows that this goes into A4 (pin 4). Then on BE-288 it shows that these switches also go to the Theft Deterrent System ECU. Hummm, so what the switches on the door are called. Are the Door Courtesy Switches (BE-85) or Door Open Dectection Switches (BE-288). I might go back and look at A4 (pin 4) and test this. But then again I might just give up and call it a day. As long as someone drives it everyday to charge the battery it should be okay. :(

I had a chance to do a continuity test on the socket where the junction box plugs into. According to the service manual, pin A6 (which is part of all the door switches) should be OPEN when all the doors are closed. It shorts to GROUND when one of the doors are open which is normal but it reads around 160 ohm or so when it shoud be OPEN when all the doors are closed. I also removed all the door switches and replaces them on by one to test each door. So something on this line is short like we suspected. Now the question is who else is on this A6 line and where does it come from? I am not a 100% certain that its only the door switches. Looking through the manual suggests that the Theft System ECU is part of this and that it may be sending this A6 signal down to the Intergration Relay. I'm not too sure though, still trying to figure this all out. BTW, thanks George Jetson for all your help. Having another set of "eyes" always helps. Sometimes you can get too close to something and can't see the trees in the forest. Will keep looking...

Tried to get to the door switch but found it impossible to access so I gave up. I then went to the Integration Relay and removed that. It interesting that the dash OPEN DOOR light was still ON. All other lights were off (dome light and ignition ring). So this is still a bummer. I think that I have a short in the wiring somewhere. Oh, one thing I didn't do was to test the Integration Relay or to see it if where it plugs into is shorted to ground for the door switch at least. Easy enought to do... But then again, with the relay removed wouldn't that be the same as an open going to the light?????? Hummm, maybe or maybe not. If both checks out okay then I'm screwed. I hate shorts! You never know where they are... Any other ideas????

The way the switch works is that when the door is closed the switch is OPEN and does not send the signal to GROUND (body ground). When the door is open then the switch CLOSES and GROUNDs the signal. So, I took all the switchs off and just let it dangle preventing it from shorting to GROUND (simulating all the doors are closed) and the "open door light" and the ignition key ring light is still ON. So my question is where does this signal that goes to all four switches come from? Is there a module or something that all these plug into? I think its causing me my grief but where is it? The factory serivce manuel schematic shows something but I can't quite figure it out. Any ideas? TIA...

Replaced a dead battery and forgot code for radio, tried 10 times and now I am locked out with HELP on the diplay. Is the Lexus dealer my only option for getting this code? They want 1/2 hour labor ($76 in my area) to get it. This is a bummer for my '92 ES300... Radio worked great and prefere not to get it replaced but its six of one or half a dozen for another.... Options please...

I think I have a short somewhere and it recently drained my battery after sitting for a week. The "open door light" is stuck on and some of the lights like the ignition key ring is also on. I tried to ignore it because the car usually starts if I drive it everyday but after a week with out charging the battery, its dead. My question is where do I start looking to trouble shoot this problem. The doors are all closed, hood, trunk are also closed but this light is still on. Is there a relay somewhere that controls all this? I'm at a lost on this. I do not want to go to the dealer because it might cost more then the car is worth. Its a 92 ES. TIA for all your suggestions...

I have a 1992 with the 3XXX something engine. So I do have to remove the fuel rail huh? Which tool did you use to remove the bolt that is underneath? It doesn't look like a socket head with a U-joint will fit. A closed end wrench? What a pain... I had no problems removing the nuts and bolts. They came right off for me.

I need to change my valve cover gaskets due to it leaking but had trouble trying to remove the upper intake plenum to get to the rear cover. There is a nut that is pretty hard to get underneath the plenum near the passenger side. It seems that the fuel rail is in the way plus its at a weird angle with limited height space making it difficult to get a socket or anykind of wrench in there. Also there's not much room to turn an open end wrench even if I manage to get on it there. So whats the trick to removing this nut? Is there another one that I can't see? The total is two bolts and three nuts that is holding down this top plenum. Is this correct? TIA...

I found two O2 sensors. One if them is right in front of the engine and the other one was under the car beneath the passenger seat. Is there a third one? If there is, it must be on the bank next to the firewall. But where is it? Can it be accessed very easily or do I have to take things apart to get to it? Connecting the one under the car was a pain especially when you have to take the passenger seat out. TIA.