dropspace

in the day, the lights are actually supposed to shine brighter on the display and needles. this puts added stress on the lighting element in the needle. If it is on the border of failing it will be more pronounced when the higher daytime power is applied to it. there is one spot on my speedo needle that does the same thing. the lights are actually dimmer at night so the problem goes away. you are going to have to get the whole assembly repaired to stop it as previously mentioned.

when i got my car both of those alignment gauges were cracked by the previous owner... so i just adjusted them the old fashioned way and did it out in the street at night.

look on top of the headlight. you will see a bubble that you can use for leveling. the actual bolts that modify up/down and left/right are sticking out the back of the headlamp assembly.

its probably the height of the sunroof glass. try the shims first...they are only a few bucks each and easy to install. i think i described it in an earlier post so just do a search, i had exactly the same problem.

es300's don't have drums on the back so your only real problem is if the rotor sticks

like i said its more personal preference. i have aftermarket pads and rotors on my 92 and don't have any problems at all with them... but i will concede that the chances of getting crap parts in the aftermarket are much higher than going with lexus parts. you can also get the correct parts from your local toyota dealer, or online. toyota will sell you parts much cheaper and its all the same.

if you are going through rotors like that it probably means your caliper pistons are siezed. i would tend to agree with replacing the whole deal. and fully bleeding the brake fluid. as far as using genuine lexus or not, its a personal opinion thing. less of a chance of things going wrong with genuine parts but I believe its possible to get aftermarket parts that work just as well also. its just the chances of something not being right are much higher. if one of the abs sensors were bad you would most liklely get an abs warning light.

agreed if you cause any property damage or are liable for injuries, try getting a fair shake from those cheap agencies. it can seriously put you back a lot of money. go with a reputable insurance company. look at independent reviews of people that have really had the worst happen to them, it will tell a lot.

i dunno, it says or... or am i missing something? i've changed a lot of pads and have never needed backing shims and spray at the same time...

there is brake quiet stuff that you spray on the backs of the shoes. also most pads come with shims which accomplish the same thing. you really shouldnt need the spray and the shims both. don't ever spray anyting on the rotors!

sometimes 3rd party pads either don't come with clips, or come with generic clips that aren't toyota spec. if those clips are even slightly different the pad will be loose in the caliper and you will squeal like crazy.

whats the best place to get a motorvac? do the toyota/lexus dealers do them or is it better to find a shop that specializes in it?

i think what sk means is if you don't have an actuall problem that can be attributed to the fuel filter, there's really no reason to change it (and then he would tell you to search the forum for the previous posts on it)

didn't affect my abs sensor at all..you just need to hit it enough to break the seal on the hub. not a full force hit...

yes, there is nothing else holding them on. if they are the original rotors, there is usually quite a bit of corossion on the hub and rotor that seals them up pretty good. you just have to apply enough force to break this seal. putting anti-seize compound on the new ones is a good idea. i had a ford expedition that i actually had to hacksaw the old rotors off the hub

sometimes they get seized up on the hub. if you aren't planning on keeping them and are replacing with new, just whack them with a 10lb sledge and they will usually break free. i had to smack the sense out of mine to get them off my 92...

i second that i would have been out hundreds in dealer shop costs if it werent for skperformance

the shop may have connected a pair (or more) of the wires up to the distributor incorrectly. new plug wires are sometimes not marked with the cylinder number on the wire, so it can get confusing unless you label them. your distributor could be firing to wires in the wrong order or one of the wires may be disconnected causing a cylinder to not fire at all my opinion would be to focus on the cap/rotor/wires i am not sure what regular (non platinum) plugs would do....but I would put denso platinums in there as that is what is specced from toyota.

there's a thread in here that talks about it. some people pull the intake... i was able to get to them with a 6" extension and a swivel ratchet. its tight and you have to work at it a bit, but i think faster than pulling the intake. a benefit to pulling the intake though is that you can clean it while its off.

i would agree...a friend of mine has a toyota corolla and he's on his 3rd exhaust manifold. he had the same exact problem you described. they can come loose and crack easily.

wow, you are truly amazing! replaced the cap and rotor and the problem went away. a $14.72 fix! it wasn't cracked, but the points were pretty corroded. it may have gotten wet at some point in its life... i really appreciate you solving this prob...if you are ever in dallas, i owe you dinner

no I am not the issue is the same whether the ect is on or off...except that it does accelerate faster because the engine spends more time over 4k rpm.

fyi: the bogging still happens when driving in first

well, it's harder to detect this effect when the car is in neutral because you have to really stomp on the gas. making the time you are under 4k rpm pretty short. i would have to say that i can detect the hesitation slightly...but the throttle response is fine.

it has little to do with what gear i am in and more to do with the throttle being open at low rpm's. it will bog in 1st just as much as in 3rd. really bad low end torque. when the tach hits 4k the bogging instantly goes away