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Phil...you made my day with that post. Be warned that rolling down the windows will ruin your gas mileage. Just carry some ice cubes to chew on. B)

Allow me ask a simple yet salient question. You do not recall the jumpers being hooked up backwards (even for the slightest moment) do you? Blown fuses and mysterious operation make me suspicious. I have heard of weird behavior under those conditions.

Cold heater air when idling (but hot otherwise) usually indicates an air pocket in the system. And perhaps why the pocket exists in the first place is that the pressure in your cooling system is low. It might be as simple as replacing the reservoir cap which maintains the correct pressure. You may also be a bit low on coolant.

How is your engine operating temp? You could replace your thermostat and hope for some improvement. I changed mine and got a slightly hotter engine temp and the MPG went up substantially. However, in the winter months, you can expect worse mileage than in warmer months. The TStat is fairly cheap ($10 for stat, $5 for the O-ring gasket, another $15 for antifreeze) and easy to install that you might want to try it. No guarantees, its a crapshoot.

wuzzy...go ahead and use the roaster. Its good ole "Yankee" engineering! (Oh wait, you are in N. Georgia, sorry). :o Anyway, the aluminum will block the vents somewhat but no more than the plastic version. Just make sure the pan has no chance to short out the main output lug and I think you will be fine. Keep us posted.

Do not know of any video, wuzzy (be nice though!). Heck, its hard enough just to find a picture tutorial. However, it actually does not appear to be as daunting as you might think. While the following is a tutorial on changing the timing belt, pay special attention to step #14 (alternator removal). Study the pictures carefully and you should be able to figure it out. Obviously you will not have to take all the stuff off just to get to the alternator. Just enough to get at the alternator bolt/nut. Here's the link --> http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/timingbelt.html

I agree with most all that you have stated but I do not measure what has drained out in order to add just that much back in. I fill it to the proper level marks and recheck and refill(while purging the system) until the reservoir level is reading properly. The amount drained is strictly a rough guideline as to how much must be added back.

If you are purchasing from Advance Auto, you won't be buying Toyota fluid, which is what you should use. It comes in 1 gal containers and is not cut with water. I would recommend that you use distilled water and mix the solution to 50/50 in a clean container. Use that fluid to refill. That way, you are assured of the proper mixture. One thing to warn you about. The water inlet where you will be refilling with coolant has a plug that takes a 10mm allen key socket(at least on the 98 LS). Make sure you have one of those handy before starting. I have lots of tools but did not have that one. You should also re-torque the plug when done. The system is refilled through that hole and it takes a lot of patience to get it down the hatch w/o spilling a bunch of fluid. Go slowly and let the fluid seep back into the engine, purging some air along the way. Then when that fill hole wont take any more, plug it and adjust the level via the reservoir. Pack old towels around the fill hole so that when you inevitably spill some, it will be wicked away. If you don't, it will run down the engine and later you'll wonder if you have a leak or just residue dripping. You refill until the reservoir is at the upper level, then run the engine up to temp, turn on the heater full blast, rev the RPM's to 2k for several minutes to purge the air. All the while keeping a watchful eye on the temp gauge AND on the reservoir. If reservoir empties or engine temp starts to wander too far north (more than 3/4) shut it down and readjust the fluid level. Remember to respect the fact that the fluid may be hot when(if) you need to remove the reservoir cap. Finally, let the engine cool down to ambient(overnight) and recheck/refill(if needed) the reservoir in the morning.

There are also fuses known as "slow blow". These fuses endure the higher inrush current of a motor or incandescent lamp while still providing overall current protection. If you get the wrong fuse installed(even of the same amperage), seemingly "mysterious" blowouts can occur. In reality, there is always a good explanation.

Many times, a coin or other small metal object will get dropped into the lighter socket which immediately blows the fuse. The person then fishes the coin out and does not think to replace the fuse. Especially if the lighter rarely gets used. It has happened to me. I have even seen fuses that, over the years, just go bad. Not blown, just develop a bad connection inside. The result is the same.

Have you checked the fuse?

I bought my LS because I had heard that they were nice cars and I could not resist the bargain of a nice, clean used luxury car. However, what I did not know about, was the engine and acceleration. The first time I mashed my foot on the accelerator, I got the surprise of my life! There was a slight hesitation then the car just took off. Not Corvette fast but much faster than what I was expecting. That engine just winds up and pounces. Neat sound too. Could be addictive. :D

Yeah, the higher operating temp might be having an effect, but an 8% increase in MPG? Dont get me wrong, its a good "problem" to have. I want to write it off as an imagination on my part. Maybe I am driving it easier(dont want that new Tbelt to break ). Or maybe the AC is now off (which it is, winter and all). Tire pressure might make a very slight improvement but mine were not low and I did not add air. Well, time will tell. With each tank so far, the MPG has remained high. I am anxious for a long highway trip to see what it is doing in that department. I am inclined to think that the Tstat is running slightly higher and the engine more efficiently. Best $15 I have ever spent. In any case, that 1uz-fe is an amazing engine. Tell you a funny story. I was working on the Lex with the Tbelt/water pump replacement and my wife's 98 Chrysler(with 3.8L) water pump went out(I think it was jealous). So, I had to momentarily drop the Lex and switch over to the Chrysler. What a contrast. I go from a sophisticated machine to what looks(to me, anyway) like a tinker toy! An easy to work on tinker toy, mind you, but a "toy" (comparatively speaking) nonetheless. ;)

I have the opposite "problem". After replacing the timing belt, water pump and thermostat, my Lex has been getting an average of 25 MPG vs. the 23 MPG(combined city/country driving, my standard work route..not highway) it was getting before. I do not understand it. The engine does run a bit warmer now with the new thermostat(temp. gauge needle reads slightly higher). However, it has only been two tanks and I am going by the computer average reading. Still there is a noticeable difference that is puzzling.

Sorry, no direct answer yet, just a bunch of questions:(but it will get the thread kick-started and the juices flowing) ;) And you do not have the "child" lockout button depressed, right? (all the other windows work properly?) Was the offending window working properly up until now? Or was it sometimes sluggish? Do the interior lights dim(ever so slightly) when you attempt to run the window? You may have to remove the inside door panel and start checking with a voltmeter.

This is not an easy issue to diagnose from 2400 miles. Not easy even from 2 ft. It could be your speaker(s) have gone bad or on the way out. Or a connection. Or the amplifier in the stereo. Running the volume at max. may have toasted the output amp. You will probably have to take the unit out of the car. If not mechanically inclined, you can visit a shop specializing in sound equipment where they should be able to give you an estimate for a fix(be seated when they tell you). If you do feel inclined, study this tutorial and give removal a try --> http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/audio/headunit.html If the Nak is bad, you may just want to put in a good aftermarket stereo unit.

As Steve has already suggested, I would have the coolant completely changed if you have not already done so. The coolant is now over 5 years old, may be loosing its ability to perform and is critical to the cooling system and water pump. You want to keep that pump as 'happy' as possible. The coolant is one of those time-sensitive as well as mileage dependent fluids. You can do it yourself to save. Use ONLY Toyota coolant.

Did you check your serpentine belt? Sounds like it may have come off or broken(or maybe tensioner). That would explain the dead battery, stiff steering. Worth a quick look.

Got what we paid for. We'll have to settle for memories. Bummer. :(

Don't dismiss the ground just yet. You probably need to pull the bulb out and check the contacts. A single corroded contact is all it takes to make it dimmer. Also, I have heard that the bulb itself can, with age, become weaker. What year is your LS?

They probably won't know what to do at AZ or AA. You can do it yourself with this --> http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html

can the 1997 ls's be programed that way? Most of the Lexus vehicles from 1998 and up has the feature, technical term is "CBES" or Computerized Body Electronic System. it allow Lexus owners to change certain settings, like lights sensitivity, headlight on-time, interior illumination, door lock, sunroof and wireless remote operations just to name a few.

Interesting info, Jim. Where DO you find that stuff?

Welcome David!!! A 98 LS400 with TB replaced and in the condition you describe is an absolute bargain at $4600. I would buy such a car in a heartbeat if given the chance. From what I have seen, most 98's with that kind of mileage go for about $6-7000. Not sure about the quiet whine. Remember this...when you own a Lexus you tend to get spoiled and expect perfection. I know I do. A quiet whine may be nothing to be concerned about. I get hypercritical about things on my 98 then realize that I am being somewhat paranoid and perhaps too persnickety. It happens and you should be aware. Not saying that is your case though :D With that being said, if you turn your steering all the way in one direction and the whine becomes noticeably louder, then you may have the source. Again, welcome. I have owned my 98 LS400 for 2 1/2 years and I am still totally awed by that car! It would be hard to think of driving anything else.

Were you looking for the ES300 forum?