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landar

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Everything posted by landar

  1. landar
    Well, you will need to determine if the gauge is telling the truth. It could be that your thermostat slowly stayed open and you really are running with a cool engine. Or your gauge could be faulty or bad temp sensor. With 432k miles, it could be any of those. It might help to know some history like the last time coolant was changed, thermostat changed..etc. Do you get hot (not just warm) air from the heater when running?
  2. landar
    Justin, welcome to the club. I do not know your particular situation but if you would like to save some serious cash and develop a sense of accomplishment at the same time, I would highly recommend trying to tackle some of these items yourself. If you have the will, there is a way. There are lots of practical tutorials out there to guide you. Is that even a consideration for you?
  3. landar
    Since yours is a 99 LS, it should be the same as my 98 was. I think it would be easiest to remove the LH (drivers side) aluminum cam cover if I remember correctly. Study the first dozen or so pics from my gallery on the 98 and see what you think is do-able. Of course you will not need to drain the coolant, nor remove the fan clutch and so on. Just use your best judgement and I think you can get a look at the belt with a minimum of teardown. Still, takes several pics along the way and bag parts as a precaution. Here are the gallery pics of a 98 LS400 -> https://www.flickr.com/photos/landar/sets/72157622883357340/
  4. landar
    Indeed there is, Steve -> http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/ignition/distributor_rotor.html However, I would never take off all of the stuff that the tutorial suggests. Sure it makes for easier access but what an added hassle. Different strokes for different mechanics, I guess.
  5. landar
    Welcome Ted. That sounds like maybe it could be the clock spring and yes, I would have to agree with you on coverage. It seems like since it is a safety critical feature (air bags), the fix/replacement should be covered under warranty. I had a Chrysler van where the clock spring connection went bad causing the air bag light to come on. Chrysler would cover it no matter what the mileage or year because it was a safely issue. I know that is not Lexus but if Chrysler was compelled to fix it(and I do not think it was out of the goodness of their heart) then maybe Lexus will cover it as a safety issue.
  6. landar
    It all depends...I would probably replace the entire tensioner assembly with pulley because then you are also getting new spring tension along with new pulley bearing/bushing. Quite honestly, I am not real familiar with the tensioner assembly on the LS but it looks like it has a Left hand thread, meaning you rotate the bolt CCW to tighten and CW to loosen. But verify that before you try. The reason I say that is because you rotate the bolt CCW to loosen the tension which is usually the way to also tighten the bolt. But again, I would recommend to replace the entire tensioner assembly and be done with it.
  7. landar
    I think (hope?) that most people would realize the absolute ludicrous nature of the advice and quickly dismiss it. The idler pulley is shown in step 9 in the lexls timing tutorial. You do not want (or need) to do everything mentioned just to get to the pulley. But it gives a good idea of what it will take. If you need to replace the fan bracket assembly pulley, you would look at step 20. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/timingbelt.html
  8. landar
    Welcome Tony. I would begin by putting in more than a gallon of gas. Then check for codes -> http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html
  9. landar
    Put the crank at TDC with cams aligned(cam marks align every two revs of the crank). Then RH side rotor points to 9 o'clock and LH(drivers side) points to approx. 5:30. Verify all of this BEFORE you pull the existing rotors and put it back the same. You should be golden WRT the rotors.
  10. landar
    Hmmm...and the fluid is fresh? I can not see all three solenoids going out unless it was pretty sludged up in there. Maybe its faulty power train computer drive to the solenoids?
  11. landar
    One other thing that I have to mention....probably not the case but, I have heard of getting the rotors on backwards (180 degrees out). Can you just verify that they were put on correctly? When the timing is at TDC, the RH (passenger) rotor metal tip should be in about the 9 o'clock position while the LH rotor should be in the(approx.) 5:30 position.
  12. landar
    Code 13 is the RPM signal 2, which is a cam signal on the LH side (drivers side). Check carefully for a loose, broken or disconnected wire around the cam cover on the drivers side. You should also check the crank position sensor and wiring. You might have accidentally cut or pulled one of these wires when you did the work.
  13. landar
    Welcome, Ralph. With a 22 yo car, there are a lot of brittle connectors and plastic pieces. It is hard to say what might have been disturbed, if anything. It could also be caused by the quality or type of replacement parts. You could also look for codes from the on-board computer. There might not be any but its worth taking a quick look. See this tutorial for how to retrieve codes -> http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html Also, you mention dist. cap and rotor in the singular sense. There are two caps and two rotors. Did you change out each pair? And what brand of parts did you use for all components?
  14. landar
    Welcome Scott. Yes, I would begin by replacing caps/rotors as normal maintenance. A bad coil should not target one particular cylinder. However, you could swap the coils and see if the issue jumps to the other bank of cylinders. I also doubt that it is a bad injector because you DO get a strong fuel smell, meaning the injector is injecting fuel. I doubt it is ECU caps as that would affect more than one cylinder. Cap/rotor is the main suspect here.
  15. landar
    That part is known as the 'fan bracket' and it would not be a bad idea to replace it while doing the timing belt. However, it is not difficult to replace later, if it should fail. I always do a wiggle test on the bearing and if it seems sloppy, I would replace. Otherwise reuse.
  16. landar
    Those parts are brackets so if a cat is missing, they would not be needed. But if you want to get things back to original, they will need to be reinstalled. Your exhaust system is probably not the reason your engine will not run. And I doubt you need a new engine. Think 'simple' things like rotors/caps, coils, fuel pump.
  17. landar
    Since the cats have the same part#, I would guess that they are interchangeable. As far as the hose, it sounds like it is one that connects to the intake plenum but not sure I can nail it down without a pic. Whats the approx. diameter of the hose?
  18. landar
    Welcome Brian and congrats on your 'new' purchase. Actually, the 94 has two cattys...its a V8, so one on each bank(part 17400 in the diagram). And they ain't cheap, at least the good OEM ones are not. Not sure about the 'air hose' you are referring to. Does it attached to the throttle body? Maybe you can take a pic and post.
  19. landar
    If you turn the steering wheel hard left or right, do you hear the pump straining at all? If not, you might have a plugged line or air in the system as mentioned by Daniel or possibly a defective pump. Wonder if the rack filter is clear and allowing fluid to pump?
  20. landar
    Thanks for the update, Nam! That is good and useful information for us. And welcome
  21. landar
    Welcome to the Club, Matt. You know, the 'clunk' might be related to the work done and it might not. Sometimes issues are just coincidental and have nothing to do with recent work. On the other hand, I would make sure to alert your mechanic to the 'clunk' and at least let him know. That way, if something he did is at fault, and the engine stops running properly, it will be established that you did bring it to his attention. Now, a 'clunk' to me could suggest that the mechanic forgot to properly tighten something. Maybe a bolt to the AC or Alternator bracket. Maybe even the crankshaft bolt. Who knows. It is easy to miss something like this if you get in a hurry as some do (like the roach coach pulls up at lunchtime and he suddenly smells donuts). Sometimes there is even a tool left behind that is hitting a moving part. Have the mechanic take a look.
  22. landar
    So, I have to ask...how did you get new wheels and tires without having them balanced?
  23. landar
    I would never recommend new tires/rims without having them balanced as a pair. Even though they are new and maybe factory balanced to some extent, the combination of the tire on the rim produces too many variables to ensure balance at speed. So yes, get them balanced. That's probably your issue. Sometimes the tire shops can put the weights on the inside of the rim where you do not see them. But an LS has such big brakes that the inside might not be possible(they would rub the brake caliper). You will need to ask about that at the tire shop.
  24. landar
    Well, first off, a hearty welcome to you Rick! When you go from stock to 17" it should not really matter much but perhaps you need to have the tire/wheels rebalanced. Another quick test you can do is to swap the front to back. That puts a different set of rims/tires in the front and maybe you will notice a difference. If so, it could be balance or even a bad tire. It has been known to happen even with new tires. Also, your 95 could be in need of some new up-front suspension parts, maybe. So, do a thorough check of the bushings there and if some look worn or rotted, then get them replaced and have the front end aligned. Finally, if you still have the 16" wheels/tires, throw them back on and see what happens. If it rides fine, then it is definitely your new rims/tires.
  25. landar
    Generally speaking, poor gas mileage means a rich mixture of fuel/air. And usually due to a "cool" running engine or a computer that 'thinks' the engine is running cool. A bad coolant temp sensor could be telling the computer to increase the fuel mixture all of the time. Or, perhaps, your engine really is running too cool such as a bad (stuck open) thermostat could cause. I suppose bad O2 sensors could also wreak havoc on your fuel trim.
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