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Vikin9

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About Vikin9

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    Vikin9

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  • First Name
    Paul

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Lexus Model
    07 GS450h
  • Lexus Year
    2007
  • Location
    Washington (WA)
  1. I retread your post. You're right, my symptoms were slightly different. One thought would be to flush the cooling system; preferably back flush if possible. There are very small passages (~3 mm) in the head gasket that could easily get clogged and could cause hot spots (??). We didn't have "no heat" from the heater until after the first "boil over" from the overflow tank. In the course of trying to figure out my problem, I gravity fed water through the heater core (from the valve to the passenger side). Very little water flowed through (i.e. clogged). We hooked up water fro a faucet to in the
  2. I just experienced almost this same saga, crumbling overflow tank and all. How was the thermostat seal? I wound up replacing the head gasket and resurfacing the head. It showed blown head gasket symptoms. The head gasket is metal, so it didn't really "blow," Instead, I think driving hot, even if not pegged, warped the head just enough to allow blow-by into the cooling circuit. I'd like to hear an experienced mechanic's view, but I think running it hot damages the aluminum head pretty easily. Also, my heater valve was questionable, but I decided to wait until I was sure the problem was fixed.
  3. How does a DIYer go about efficiently adjusting the valve clearances on a shimmed valve engine? Specifically, how do you get all the shims that you need? I need to adjust 14 of 24. That's a lot of shims to buy. Background: I just finished replacing my head gasket at 207K miles (link below). I replaced the valve guide seals while I was in there. On reassembly, my valve clearances are a few thousandths below tolerance (.006 in min). That's a little tight for the exhaust side. Should I worry about that? Of course I should have measured all the shims while the cams were out, but that wasn't my f
  4. Closing the loop... The cause of my overheating problem was a deteriorated thermostat seal that broke into pieces and clogged three small coolant passages in the head gasket. The flow blockage must have been enough to overheat and warp the head. The head gasket looked ok, but there must have been just enough clearance for coolant to seep into the cylinders. My teenage son didn't think it pegged the gauge, but it must have ran too hot or hot for too long. As mentioned above, this had classic blown head gasket symptoms. Replacing the head gasket on this car is not a do-it-yourself project for
  5. Thanks. That's a good idea to backflush the heater core. I also have to figure out how to flush the cylinder block. I now have the head off and there is no obvious sign of head gasket failure. But there were a couple of small holes between the block and head that had "black gunk" sticking out. When I picked at one, a half inch piece of rubber pulled through. Then I remembered that when we replaced the thermostart, the seal was deteriorated and no longer intact with parts missing. At least three of these flow holes were clogged. Hard to believe that this would cause my overheating problem, but
  6. Thanks Water flows freely through radiator. Thermostats (old & new) open in hot water (>~190F) Heater core flow seems restricted but passes. Going to rig up a back flush circuit. Now I'm thinking its a head gasket. Quickly overheating from cold start Large bubbles in radiator neck with cap off But: Plugs all look the same. No visual sign of coolant in oil, or oil in coolant. Didn't notice any white smoke. Any thoughts? Also, how do you test compression when you have to disassemble the top half of the engine compartment to get the plugs out?
  7. Overheating and No Heat from Heater (A/C cold OK) 1995 Lexus GS 300 is overheating and cold air is coming from heater on any setting. Replaced radiator cap, thermostat and coolant. Tried to burp air by jacking front and pinching and tapping hoses. No drips under car. Car starts and runs fine. Radiator and water pump replaced in last two years. Tearing apart cooling system now. No clogs found yet. Flow passages are clean with no corrosion inside. 207K Miles Son heading to school, saw steam from right of hood. Pulled over. Coolant boiling over from reservoir overflow. Radiator cap fell apart
  8. That's great! Thanks for the quick replies.
  9. Will 06 GS wheels fit my 95 GS? Is the offset the same? Or do I need to use a spacer? It looks like they will fir but I can't find any definitive answer on what the offset is. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
  10. On my '95 GS, the rear seat bottom comes out simply by pulling up firmly on the front of the seat assembly. There are two male wire forms that must be removed from their receptacles by pulling upward. They plug in so it's a tight fight, but up is the direction they go. Then the seat just lifts out.
  11. About a year ago, I tried BFGoodrich® g-Force T/A KDW 225/55R16's on my stock, chrome-wheeled 95 GS 300. They ride nice and looked great. However, they are wearing fast. And worse, now 12K miles later, the outside edge of the driver side rear tire is completely bald. The passenger side is wearing evenly. Is rear alignment required on a first gen GS? Any other ideas what's wrong?
  12. I had mine replaced by a reliable independent shop that I use when I don't have time to tackle it myself. It was a Bosch starter and it ran me about $450 P&L.
  13. I went with BFGoodrich® g-Force T/A KDW 225/55R16's on my stock chrome-wheeled 95 GS 300. I got 'em from Costco. They look and ride really nice. It's too early to tell on treadwear, but I like them a lot and get a lot of compliments on the car.
  14. Why don't you just put a little "stop leak" in there? Only your tire technician will ever know.
  15. Here's a photo of my cupholder assembly that I took to try and find a used replacement. From this you can see if you have the same assy. The tabs that hold the assy in are circled in the upper right view. Basically, I made a flat wire form to replace these tabs that broke off. As I mentioned earlier, after many trials, the eventual material that worked was the flat metal piece that holds the rubber wiper blades in place (which I'd just replaced). I'll try to describe the part feature by feature. At one end is a triangular bend (like a numeral "4" laying flat) that serves as the locking tab
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