bplaney

My stepson just purchased a '94 ES 300. No remote key was included. What's the cheapest way to get one of these, and can the valet key serve as the master for cutting it? thanks!

My stepson just acquired a '94 ES 300 with 181,000 miles on it. We had it checked by a mechanic before purchase, and had a list of about $1500 worth of things to fix after purchase. These were completed yesterday: new motor mounts, new front struts, new timing belt/water pump, cylinder head gasket. The car feels and rides great now. However, the check engine light comes on and goes off randomly. Could this be one of those programmed intervals, or is the mileage too high for that to be within range anymore? anyone have any ideas? the engine has enough oil, is not generating blue smoke, isn't overheating. Could it be a sensor that needs to be replaced? thanks!

I had only a temporary victory with this repair. I poked a wire into the hose and the condensate resumed falling on the driveway for a short time. Then it stopped again. I removed the hose and poked around some more (gently) with a screwdriver tip, then (with difficulty) put the hose back on (all the way, like it originally was) and have had no condensate dripping from it since. The water still collects under the driver's floor mat. Would there be any benefit in blasting compressed air into the hose? Or, shall I purchase a fleet !Removed! and squeeze it up this hose, hoping to loosen the debris? I cannot envision what the inside of this drain area must look like and how big or small the constipation is. Am I at the point where I have to let a qualified technician fix this? I am driving without the floor mat (but with a towel on the floorboard to soak the excess water up). This is really annoying... I had posted the same problem as few weeks back on this site. I am glad you are getting some answers. Turns out I know a tech. that works at the Lexus dealership by my house. The rubber drain hose attaches on the passenger side under the carpet at the very top, by the back of the glove box. There is the rubber hose that comes through the firewall and attaches to a plastic tube that come from the condenser. Simply pull it apart and clean the rubber hose out. My hose was completely clear by the way. So if yours is too the next bit of information will make you very upset. The problem is the seal on the condenser drain is bad, not the part the seal. This really bites because you have to take the whole dash out to reseal the drain. My friend told me he would do it at his house but it would take him all day! I will keep you posted on whatever solution I reach because I am tempted to do it myself. Please let me know how this goes. It would be great if you could take pictures of each step of the process and share them here! Bill

I had only a temporary victory with this repair. I poked a wire into the hose and the condensate resumed falling on the driveway for a short time. Then it stopped again. I removed the hose and poked around some more (gently) with a screwdriver tip, then (with difficulty) put the hose back on (all the way, like it originally was) and have had no condensate dripping from it since. The water still collects under the driver's floor mat. Would there be any benefit in blasting compressed air into the hose? Or, shall I purchase a fleet !Removed! and squeeze it up this hose, hoping to loosen the debris? I cannot envision what the inside of this drain area must look like and how big or small the constipation is. Am I at the point where I have to let a qualified technician fix this? I am driving without the floor mat (but with a towel on the floorboard to soak the excess water up). This is really annoying...

OK - I found it and I poked a stiff wire into it. I have now seen a puddle on the driveway after driving the car, where there was none before. How can you remove it from the firewall completely? it looks permanently attached, like it will be literally torn if I pull it off. Is this just deceptive, or is it really permanently attached? thanks!

Thanks Scott! I haven't even looked on the passenger side. I assumed it would be on the drivers, as that's where the water has been pooling up.

Wow... this must be a record - 50+ views of a question without any replies (not counting my own). I discovered that I cannot put my car on ramps unless I want to damage the front bumper; I jacked the driver's side front up and placed a stationary jack under to hold it up while I took a look - I have NO idea still, even after having this underside of the car almost mashing me in my near-sighted face, where this weep hole or drip hose is. I would REALLY like a photo or diagram of this. The Lexus dealer wants to charge $350 for this, and likely more. They want to uninstall the front carpet. Imagine the labor on that...

I have a GS300 and I have no idea where this hose is located. Do I need to put the car up on ramps? will it be obvious at that point? Anyone have a photo of the hose and its location? thanks!!!!

I have a GS300 and I have no idea where this hose is located. Do I need to put the car up on ramps? will it be obvious at that point? Anyone have a photo of the hose and its location? thanks!!!!

Any chance there's a photo of where this hose is located somewhere in this forum? I am clueless on this one. thanks!

Another question - I will want to completely dry out the driver's floor area. Is there some kind of product similar to those packets of silica gel that get packed with digital cameras and such that can be used to absorb the moisture completely out of there without removing the interior base carpet? is there any risk of rust getting started from this whole mishap?

Should I not buy into the concept that some sellers say regarding a "custom fit" cover - that these won't scuff your paint because they fit snugly and won't flap in the wind? or are they just fearmongering?

After looking through other boards and using google, it seems what I should hope is NOT the case is a cracked evaporator core. Yikes that would be expensive. I can add the following facts to what I mentioned initially: 1. There is no coolant in this puddle - it appears to be plain water (smells a little stale, but not like windshield washer fluid or coolant). My coolant is red and there is no discoloration to the carpet. 2. The AC works perfectly... I hope that in itself rules out a cracked evaporator core. I am hoping it is just a clog in the evacuation hose - if that's indeed what is used by this car to get rid of condensate from the AC process... If so, is this an easy do-it-yourself type fix? is there something like a "snake" you can insert into one end of the hose to ream it clean, or is that too primitive an approach for what may be there?

I was giving my recent purchase a leather cleaning/conditioning today - pulled up each carpet to shake off the dirt and discovered when I lifted the driver's rug that it was pretty wet under there. A bit slimy too on the rubber underside of the mat. Nothing that looks or smells like mold. What should I suspect first? I hope this has nothing to do with the AC and condensation. I'm in Texas and we cannot do without it. thanks! :cries:

No one has a suggestion? well, can anyone answer me this: what are my chances of locating a USED car cover designed to fit a GS300 second generation (of which 1999 is one particular year). I am scouring Craigslists across the country...

I wonder if there is any other maintenance task it is appropriate to do if you go through this procedure for replacing the Airbag Module. Even something as mundane as being able to clean something that you otherwise would have no chance to clean. I will file the answer away for future reference. thanks!

Thank you!

Thanks, I just got my 6 month premium reduced by .... 50 cents! I am consulting with my wife what to do with this windfall :)

Thanks!

If you are releasing grime inside the key column, where would it go? Is there some kind of stiff brush that could be inserted into the ignition to grab the debris? BTW, I soaked the metal shanks of my keys in an ammonia solution, it cleaned them nicely.

We need someone from the advertising agency that designs and produces Lexus printed materials to go to the CD/DVD archives and find the original layout files (probably QuarkXPress if they are vintage 1999) and generate some nice PDFs for this message board of the technical manuals ("shop manuals", what have you) that the mechanics refer to when they are using them for guidance in taking something apart (like an engine or an electric window). You don't want to have to get these from scans of the printed pages of an actual book; the files would be astronomically huge. That's why we need the source layout files. C'mon! we know you are out there. Do this for us! (send me a private email if you need technical support for this process).

What about WD-40?

I bought this car from a seller who had installed a Sirius satellite radio in the car. The tuner is a small faceplate he stuck to the front of the pull out ash drawer, and the antenna is a black squarish lump that is stuck to the rear part of the roof at the upper right corner of the rear window. You can see a black wire going into the window gasket. How easy is it to remove this stuff properly? Would it be an expensive thing to have it removed?

Are there any standard user-serviceable parts I should only buy as authentic Lexus parts? Any good online source for parts you can recommend?

Be prepared to spend about $1000. This happen to my previous 99 GS400. Just locked up one morning after giving us trouble for about a month with being hard to turn. I had to have it towed to the dealer. The keys get worn along with the lock column. Dirt buildup and wear and tear eventually keep the key from working. They had to mechanically re-key the entire car but were able to transfer the electronic portion of the key so it didn't require a new ECU. Sorry for the bad news. This is one of two individual, original Lexus keys, the ones with the unlock and panic buttons. If one key did this, should I assume the other would also, or could there be differences in their wear that might make one less reliable?