KBRX330

Do I need to disconnect the battery as well or not?

I've now owned 4 Lexus vehicles 3 ES350's and one RX330. All were excellent and driven to 165k - 200k. I still have a 2016 with 60k on the clock. Now the wife wants to get an NX 300 and I'm wondering if the 2.0L 4 cyl is any good. OR am I asking for problems? Any opinions from owners would be apprciated.

Get a CPO ES350 in year 2016 or 2017. It will come with a two year full warranty and can be had for $25k. Any Lexus or Toyota dealer can service it.

I moved and due to HDD crash lost all of my forum info. But now have a 2016 ES350 and really like it.

1. I am really bothered by the hesitation when I try to accelerate quickly from a very low speed. 2. I am concerned with the self acceleration at 23 mph, when slowing down while coasting. Answer to 1. : All of mine do or have done this. (2008, 2011, 2012) it is the nature electronic throttle control programming. Not the transmission. Answer to 2: If you are coasting in any downhill angle (even slight) and touch the brake pedal the brake ECU sends a signal to the transmission ECU that you are attempting to slow down and the transmission will downshift which will increase engine rpm and act as an engine brake. (all 3 of mine do this) This is all normal. If you are coasting downhill (not touching brake pedal) and your engine reaches too high of an rpm the trans will downshift as well.

I have owned 2 ES350's and a 2012 avalon all with the same driveline. The transmissions do seem to "hunt" between gears at stop & go "city" trafic speeds. Mine have all done it. They also shift slow when cold until they get to operating temperature. Nature of the beast. I think it is the shift logic built into the vehicle that uses speed sensors and other driveline/chassis/braking input data to mange shift interval. You might try asking the dealer if they can clear the memory on the transmission ECU so it can "re-learn" your driving style.

Our first ES350 was a 2008. Now we have a 2011. Love em both. But we keep them until 200,000 miles because we roll about 35,000 a year in highway miles whith kids in college. So I'll probably get a CPO 2015 in 2-3 years. Michelin has a new tire out now that is suposed to ride better than the primacy.

Why not look at a 2012 CPO ES350 that is still on the previous Camry/ES platform. I got the wife a 2011 to replace her 2008. Very happy with it and it was under $25k. I was able to find her one that was identical to her previous one and in mint condition.

Look here to find any of your part numbers and then you can buy factory parts on line at reasonable discounts from discount dealers. I have all of my Toyota/Lexus vehicles in my account. I just did a brake reline on my wifes ES350 with factory pads for $78 for all 4 wheels. That site will show you what parts are in your specific vehicle based on the VIN number, http://www.toyodiy.com/

I use Google Maps on my Samsung Galaxy III smartphone that Verizon sold me for $.99 three years ago. It hasn't failed me in uncharted territory in NYC or Chicago yet.

I would check the power steering fluid reservoir and refill before you take it anywhere. You don't want to run it dry. Any Toyota dealer should be able to repair it. It takes Dexron ATF in the reservoir.

2008 ES 350 we logged 200,000 miles on 87 octane...no pinging. 2011 ES 350 we have 26,000 miles on it with 87 octane no pinging. Unless you get pre-ignition or pinging I would estimate that 87 is fine. BTw, we also did 170,000 on the 2004 RX330 on 87 octane and 55,000 miles on a 2012 Avalon 2GR-Fe with 87 and no pinging.

I never change the filter. Even the dealers I know never drop the pan because of that bolt that is blocked. But I flush every 50,000 miles and after the initial flush the fluid never gets as black as the first flush. Remember this trans is really meant to never be flushed or drianed. So that filter is meant to last the life of the trans.

If it only happens under acceleration load that it is probably not a uspension issue but a drivetrain issue. Bad cvj axles might be the culprit but both going bad is doubtful. Let us know how it turns out.

I would ask the dealer to reflash the ecm or do a complete reset of the engine and trans ecm. Then it will go beck to "re-learn" mode.

I would get a tape measure and measure your regular tires diameter against the winter tires and see if there is any difference. That's pretty close.

You might be hearing the cold fuel injectors clicking. I am on my 3rd 2GR-FE V-6 and all make some noise at startup which goes away once you hit full operating temperature. Plus the vvt system does the kluk-kluk-kluk noise when warmed up. Just traded one in with 198,000 miles and it was fine. Probably normal. I do notice less noise with Pennzoil Platinum oil.

No it is a satndard feature.

Sorry I took so long to get back. I got called out of town for work. Oil pipe is 15772-31030 Gaskets are 90430-16016, 90430-16017, 90430-16012 (2 of them) Let me know if you are interested

I had bought the part myself and the Dealer told me they had to use their part to comply with the service campaign. I'll get the part number tonight when I get home and post it on here. The part I have is the 100% all one piece metal line that they now have on all 2GR-FE engines since 2011. It's not rocket science to replace it but it is time consuming. Lots of stuff in the way. If you are anywhere near having a new serpentine belt done you might as well have that done too.

I bought the metal line for my 2008 but the dealer just put on a new hose. Then traded the 2008 in. The second hose lasted over 100,000 miles. So, I still have the unused metal line kit if anyone is interested I'll sell it for $25 plus USPS two day ship cost. It should fit any of the 2GR-FE engines. If yoou are interested, please PM me and I'll get the part number for you so you can check it.

Had the rubber hose done on our old 2008 by the dealer. The replacement rubber hose is fine and it is a stronger hose. We drove the car 198,000 miles with no issues.

I currently have a 2011 ES350 (60k) and ran the 2008 ES350 to 200,000 miles before trading. No vibration at idle with either one. The whole "they all do that" excuse is simply that...an excuse. No doubt there is a simple cause. One lazy 02 sensor or VVT sensor degrading over time which hasn't degraded enough yet to set off a CEL. Or maybe a bad ignition coil, wire or spark plug. Or maybe a dirty MAF sensor ot dirty throttle body. Or poor fuel. You can make yourself crazy chasing that but I would try different fuel and a few fuel systems cleaning with techron or gumout regane. I would also document what you are doing with date and mileage. I also use only synthetic oil changed every 5000 miles to keep all of the vvt oil control systems clean. There are also several articles out there about how each brand of gasoline leaves it's own specific carbon deposits based on the gasolines individual chemistry and that using one brand can cause severe intake and combustion chamber deposits causing rough idling and stumbling. This can be remedied by switching brands every month or so and using fuel system cleaners regularly. I would then clean your MAF sensor and inspect your throttle body to see if it is really dirty. The back of the intake plate on the TB can being abnormally dirty can cause idle issues. Make sure you clean the MAF with actual MAF cleaner (I use CRC Brand) and make sure it is unplugged and do not touch the element. Allow to dry before replugging it back in. I clean the TB right on a towel over the engine without removing the cooling line. the Toyota 2GR-FE engine is a buttery smooth V-6 and should give you flawless performance for 2-300,000 miles easily. You just have a very minor issue. Finding it is the headache. One more thing....you could have a vacuum leak check all the small hoses around the intake area and make sure they are all connected on both ends.

If your vibration is still there I would have a dealer check it on their tech scan. The VVT system has a rubber oil line that was recalled on most Toyota 2GR-FE V6 engines made before 2010. Yours definitely has one and should be replaced. You dealer should be able to check your vin to see if this was done. Here is a Toyota website post watch the imbedded video. http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/22775-2gr-fe-vvt-i-oil-line-replacement/

I would go for that...easy!!