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Select mixed, dash & footwell, air outflow mode.

Insofar as this discussion is concerned "bulb", of itself, is a generic term defining a shape, (flower bulb.....) not a device. So it's perfectly proper to use LED bulb. So, do I say that I have bulb shaped LED lamps in my Lexus or can I still get by with LED bulbs.

"...right?" No, wrong. Your A/C system has a reservoir to store liquid refrigerant. The A/C compressor only operates to refill the reservoir when the "store" of liquid refrigerant is low. Bypassing the reheat cycle of the system results in more cooling efficiency and thereby fewer operational cycles of the A/C compressor.

Well, first of all, ALL of the bulbs in the rear of my 2001 RX300 are LEDs. Oops, the backup lights are each 50 watt halogen mounted in custom bulb fixtures. LED bulbs come up to full illumination in about 100 nanoseconds and incandescents in less than 100,000,000 nanoseconds. But both are fast enough that the human eye cannot discern the difference. And I really wish that the 3 watt Luxeon LEDs I am attempting to use for forward DRLs didn't waste any of the electrical energy in HEAT. That way I wouldn't need to bother with figuring out how large a heat sink to use within the mostly sealed headlamp assembly. LEDs most definitely convert more of the electrical energy to light than do incandescents, but still no where near 100%

Not to drive the thread off topic but, why then do vehicles with totally different transmissions than the RX300 or RX330 have the transmission hesitation issue? They're two seperate issues. ← Good ideas, hardware or software, travel fast throughout any industry! Lots of job-hopping. There is no question that the idea of upshifting the transaxle, as does my 2001 RX300, during closed throttle coastdown periods would result in improved fuel economy and overall lowered emissions. Think about what you might do with a manual transmission. You might leave the transmission in gear, clutch engaged, to coastdown quickly. You might even downshift. But if your interest was high for fuel economy or lower emissions you might soon learn to shift into neutral during any coastdown periods, however brief. And why not? On the other hand would you EVER downshift to brake a FWD vehicle if the roadbed were known to be slippery? NOT! But the fly in this particular ointment is the fact that the driver might suddenly decide to accelerate briskly... My RX300, absent the e-throttle, absolutely must downshift quickly when I start depressing the gas pedal, otherwise those 4th gear clutches would soon be toast. With the throttle fully closed the engine was at idle. 800 RPM, 13 revs/second, doesn't provide much flow from the transaxle's hydraulic pump now that engine/transaxle ECU has commanded the pressure control solenoid to go to high pressure. So my RX300 quickly downshifts but since there is not yet enough high pressure to fully and firmly engage the clutches they slip for a few revolutions as the engine torque is rising. The RX300 transaxles begin to fail prematurely... The FIX? ......None. The MPG and emissions ratings are already on file at the EPA and CARB and cannot be recinded. Otherwise the firmware could be simply "reflashed" to prevent the upshifting sequence. So the long term fix became a new design that incorporated the e-throttle so the engine develops NO torque until the gearbox clutches are fully and firmly seated. My guess is that the early TSBs that were issued to address the hesitation symptom simply extended the period the throttle would be in coastdown before upshifting. That would "filter out" a lot of gas pedal "dithering" and thereby substantially reduce the happenstance of delayed accelerating. Has anyone heard of a RWD or rear biased AWD experiencing "engine hesitation" resulting from delayed, 1 to 2 second downshift squencing?

I thought I stated the "difference" between LEDs and incandescents very well. There is a reason you cannot see the screen in front of you going on and off rapidly. Now wave your hand in front of you, between you eyes and the screen to see what I mean.

The "blend" door is the reheat/remix control. All of the system airflow is first cooled via flowing through/over the chilled evaporator vane surfaces and then a selected portion is routed through the heater core for heating and then both portions are remixed to attain a temperature outflow level that cools or heats the cabin without undue discomfort, not too hot nor too cool. If the blend door were oscillating slowly that would result in periods of too cool and/or too hot airflow. Rapid oscillation and you likely wouldn't notice except for the sound of the blend door servomotor running. When I need the use of the A/C in my 2001 RX300 I always use the recirculate mode, turn the temperature control to max cooling which "parks" the blend door for NO reheat airflow, and then I use the blower speed to regulate, adjust, my comfort level. That procedure increases the efficiency of the A/C rather dramatically sometimes gaining me as much as 1 to 2 MPG in extra fuel economy. Later models of theh RX300 and 330 have two new c-best option settings. One of these allows you to disable the A/C compressor when the OAT makes it needless and the second unlinks the A/C from the defrost/defog/demist mode when it becomes hazardous for use. Before those c-best options were available I simply disconnected the electrical connection to the A/C compressor clutch during the winter months.

As I said, watch those high mounted brake lights........

First, be aware that the transaxles in the RX300 appear to be failing prematurely at 70,000 to 80,000 miles. The owners manual indicates that the ATF need not be changed for the life of the vehicle yet Lexus is now recommending ATF flush and drain at every 15,000 mile interval. In my own case (2001 AWD RX300) at ~40,000 miles the ATF was most definitely showing signs of having been overheated, burnt odor and darkish brown color. I drained all five qts, dropped the sump pan and cleaned out about 1/8" of non-metalic graphite looking debris. Go to edmunds.com and search for "hesitation" and read. The only RX I would currently recommend is the RX400h. I keep hoping Lexus will soon come up with a fix for the RX330 downshift hesitation problem. I strongly suspect the RX330's downshift hesitation problem is an outgrowth of the RX300 premature transaxle failures. For the moment I would stay away from any Toyota or Lexus V6/5-speed FWD until the hesitation issue is successfully resolved. And please keep in mind that the AWD RX300 is series is not really AWD to the level you might need or expect. 90% of the engine torque is routed to the front tires unless or until there is enough slippage (over time) for the viscous fluid in the viscous coupling to heat up and increase the torque coupling to the rear. On a four wheel dyno the best ratio we could obtain with an extended period of simulating front wheel slippage was about 75/25 F/R. Also be aware that tire chains CANNOT be fitted to the rear wheels. I added 1.5 wheel spacers (all four) and upgraded to 17X8 wheels so I could safely use tire chains. At the rear first and then also at the front when needed. Personally for quietness I run summer style Bridgestone Turanzas but keep tire chains at the ready, onboard, during the winter months. If you should proceed with the purchase be sure and have the dealer set the two available c-best options such that YOU are in control of the A/C compressor operation.

First, the human eye cannot distinquish between the 100 nanoseconds it takes a LED bulb to illuminate vs the tens of milliseconds for an incandescent filament. But if you simply wish to replace your incandescent bulbs with brighter and lower wattage LED substitutes then go to superbrightleds.com for inexpensive one or ledtronics.com for more expensive "upscale" ones. But be aware that the bulb failure diagnostic on the instrument panel will indicate a failed bulb unless you add a resister in parallel with the new LED bulbs or change the current flow sensing resistor within the ECU modules.

Two things.... The first time, ~44,000 miles, I drained the ATF from my 2001 AWD RX300 I put in only four qts as recommended by Lexus. a few weeks later the ATF was once again looking dark. Turned out the transaxle holds 5 qts but you must remove a separate drain plug in the diff'l "section" (not PTO) in order to drain the extra quart. The second time I drained 5 qts, dropped and cleaned the sump pan and installed 5 new qts. Given the pristine condition of the timing belt that came out of my 92 LS400 two years ago at 153,000 miles I have little doubt that not a few dealers are beginning to skip the effort, time and material, involved but charging the customer anyway. Who's to know?

If they didn't open the alternator so as to have a good look at the copper slip rings you might be looking at more alternator problems down the road. In preparation for this procedure I purchased a PS overhaul kit and new slip ring brushes from Lexus of Bellevue. When I opened the back of the alternator (which you do not have to do to simply install new brushes) I discovered that the copper slip rings were worn down to the metal of the alternator mainshaft. The brushes were oil soaked and worn but not worn so much that they wouldn't have lasted another 100,000 miles. Denso has somehow and for some reason used very soft copper in the slip rings of this series alternator. The soft pressure formed graphite brushes should wear out long before the slip rings.

I'm pretty sure that at this point in time Lexus is quite well aware of the problem of premature transaxle failures in this RX series. If you approach them carefully then I suspect they will make it right with you.

You will experience HEAVY torque stearing in the RX, HL and Sienna (RAV4??)because of the strong front torque bias, 90/10, when under acceleration. Differing final drive ratios front vs rear result in 50/50 torque distribution only during cruise and/or when all tires have roughly equal traction. Turning results in unequal "traction" across the front. It is my understanding that the rear drive on the RX400h is not "engaged", other than during initial startup or strong acceleration at lower speeds, except when front wheelspin/slip is detected or "impending"(??). Many more sensible (less hazardous) AWD systems bias the engine torque to the rear. The Volvo XC90 system may be the best of all, torque biased dynamically. Entering a turn engine torque is routed to the rear and after the apex biasing back to the front. Personally I absolutely agree with no nav input allowed during motion. I rarely use the nav but when I do I turn the display off and rely only on the voice. The last thing I need is to be distracted at a (in-)decision point, intersection, and inadvertently look down at the display for "help". Better to just commit to a decision, drive on through, pull over, and then look for directions. If you really prefer rear biased AWD the RX300 or RX330 (or HL, Sienna, etc.) can be quite readily converted to RWD with the/a viscous clutch coupling for front drive. Been thinking about developing an aftermarket kit for the RX400h so that front wheelspin is "detected" any time the gas pedal is "further" depressed, demanding more engine torque. The system should react by reducing the front drive and increasing the drive from the rear.

Cloth seats in the HL might contribute, no power robbing seat heating required. Like the 04 and later Prius, the HL may come with the economy mode of the A/C enabled. That makes the A/C dramatically more efficient resulting in fewer operational cycles of the compressor. The RX400h automatic climate control ALWAYS uses the reheat/remix mode, first cooling the system airflow for best dehumidification and then reheating it to prevent discomfort to the driver and passengers. The reheat/remix cycle REQUIRES that the engine coolant be HOT and the electric water pump operates to circulate it through the heat exchanger. That results in the engine running needlessly, insofar as motive force is concerned, at times. So the Rx400h engine, ICE, must run to keep the engine coolant HOT and keep the catalytic converter up to its optimal operating temperature.

It would probably help if the e-throttle were disabled with even light pressure on the brakes. Next time you're out cruising on the freeway watch how many cars are cruising along with the high mounted brake light on.

Window haze...three types. 1. Cigarettes. 2. Condensate/fog/mist. 3. Outgassing from plastcizers used in interior materials. That latter is more common than most think. The car sets all closed up in the hot sun and the inside temperature rises to 150F and above. The plasticizers "boil" out of the material, along with any leather/vinyl conditioner application you may have applied. Now you start the car up, the system automatically goes into recirculate and thus distributes all of the outgassed material onto the coolest nearby surfaces, the glass window interiors.

"brake fluid flush, coolant flush, and oil change..." And of thos ethe only one you really need is the oil (and filters) changed. Just about two years ago I changed out the factory coolant in my 92 LS400, only because it was looking a bit murky. The Ph and freeze level were still fine. I NEVER let anyone touch my brake fluid unless serious, open system, brake maintenance is involved. Keep in mind that scheduled, routine, maintenance services are often performed by the dealer's McD flipper graduates. And then think about how much you depend on your brakes for life saving.

Tune ups are absolutely no longer necessary and your timing belt should be good for at least 140k miles unless you're under "severe service". I had a good look at the one that come off my 92 LS400 at 153k and the running surface looked perfect.

The dealer cannot legally raise the HIDs above US law mandated level.

Freon has no noticeable odor.

Not too different..... 40 minutes would be just about long enough for the previous condensed moisture on the 10,000 square inches of eveaporator vane surface to begin to evaporate due to the local Rh and temperature. What you most likely saw was the mist from that evaporate that subsided as soon as the evaporator vanes were again cooled by rewfrigerant. Acrid as in mould and mildew, dirty gym socks odor, or....

Windows down or even sunroof only disrupts airflow around car, all that wind noise is turbolence, and increases the Cd. A/C light on dash only indicates that "you" want the A/C to run, enabled, if you will. The A/C compressor clutch will be engaged when the liquid refrigerant in the reservior drops below a certain level. So the A/C compressor cycles on and off as a function of how fast the cooling capability of the evaporator is being used. Little, or no, airflow through the evaporator vanes and the compressor doesn't cycle very often. The "system" will automaticaqlly disable the A/C compressor clutch during WOT, engine approaching overheat, evaporator vanes near freezing, inordinately low refrigerant pressure, and OAT at or below freezing, regardless of A/C indicator light status.

You can use your A/C in a dramatically more efficient mode and improve your gas mileage. Turn it to max cooling and recirculate (during hot/warm weather ONLY) and then use the blower speed to regulate your comfort level. This will bypass the remix/reheat mode of the system wherein CHILLED airflow is reheated to avoid discomfort and recirculate will be much like keeping the refrigerator door closed so the milk doesn't go sour. The net is that the A/C compressor will run a LOT less often.

If you want anything close to the Jeep's 4X4 performance here's the way to do it. Have a mechanic remove the center differential and PTO (Power Take Off). Remove the center differential spider gear that drives the front halfshafts and weld the spider gear that drives the rear in place. Now purchase the RX300's viscous clutch and extension shaft and install those in the PTO. Now you will have a RWD vehicle that will "adjust", couple the front drive in via the viscous clutch with rear wheel slip or spin. Now add 1.5" wheel spacers all around so you can use snowchains safely, on the rear first and then added to the front when and if needed. Always carry two sets of snowchains during the winter months, just as I always did with my Jeeps going back to 87 and now do with my 2001 AWD RX300. You can combat the hesitation problem by changing your driving style to one of a bit more aggressive nature. Always accelerate "briskly" up to the speed limit and then relax the gas pedal pressure. When I drive my six speed manual I often go from 1st to 2nd and then skip 3rd and into 4th. Then oftentimes directly to 6th. That's because I can see the roadhead, know the speed limit, and am aware that I do not need the use of some of the intermediate gear ratios. The Toyota/Lexus engine/transaxle ECU is simply trying to replicate the actions you would take. The problem is that it doesn't have your advantage of eyesight. So it, the ECU, must rely strickly on the "feel" of the gas pedal as you use it, it "learns" when to upshift, even skipping gears at times. So, accelerate "briskly", and only relax the gas pedal pressure once you have reached the road speed limit. If you are hesitent on the gas pedal the ECU, as I do, will often go from 3rd directly to 5th. Now when you wish to downshift, with non-aggressive depression of the gas pedal it will begin a downshift, but only to fourth. If about this time you realize that you need a bit more ZIP and depress the gas pedal further then the shift to 4th is already "qued" and your "new" downshift into 3rd (or maybe even 2nd) will be delayed until the previously qued shift has completed. The anticipary gear shifting, skipping, increases the vehicle's gas mileage and lowers emissions quite significantly therefore Toyota will not be coming up with a fix anytime soon, at least not without a beaucratic sign-off by the EPA and CARB. A fix has been in the works since 2003 and the Toyota engineers are not dumb, if a fix were possible it would already be available. Oh, one more thing... In the wintertime the RX330's climate control will automatically switch to footwell mode, to heating from cooling (dash outlets) as the OAT declines to freezing. That's just about the same time the A/C compressor is disabled and now the previously condensed moisture on the evaporator vanes will be released to quickly coat a COLD interior windshield surface. Don't get under "that" power curve, move the system out of cooling mode, heat the interior surface of the windshield slightly, anytime the OAT is below ~45F.