wwest

Since the underway ambient noise level is in the range of 70Db I find that the theme from Superman the Movie, or any of the Star Wars themes work very well.

First, you must be my age or older if you still believe that fuel filters need to be changed out on a routine basis. The last time I did that the car had a carburator. Simply not needed in today's world, gasoline is filtered right at the pump. Ditto for spark plugs, your engine ECU will give a diagnostic indication in the event of a consistent misfire. With modern day solid state direct ignition and spark plug technology you won't need to change or clean plugs for at least 100k miles. Cold air intakes and K&N are useless. K&N will often result in "premature" contamination of the MAF/IAT due to the oil wicking off the filer element and into the airstream. OEM air filters are typically 90% efficient, so the K&N can only offer a 10% improvement and that ONLY at WOT and max RPM. Before investing in a "cold air intake" you might want to measure, in real time, the OAT versus the air temperature right at the IAT section of the MAF. You will be surprised to find that they are virtually equal. Unless you have a cold air intake design that actually chills the incoming airlfow using something like a peltier device or devices. Your time would be much better spent using a resistance to modify the IAT signal to indicate a false "cold" signal with moderate or high throttle application and the torque converter lockup clutch disengaged.

First be sure it isn't one of the pressure control/release valves mounted in the trunk.

Were I you I would replace the slip ring brushes in the alternator before replacing the alternator itself. When the alternator failed on my 92 LS the first indication was miscellanious and intermittent diagnostic lights on the panel. I changed out the battery and those symptoms went away until the new battery's charge level declined. It turned out that the PS leak had nothing to do with the alternator failure, the slip rings on the alternator shaft were worn down to the steel shaft. The slip ring brushes were still very serviceable.

"Normalize" the "new" window up position. The directions should be in your owners manual but I think it just involves holding the window button in the UP position for an extended period after the window is actually fully up, stopped prematurely by the window guard.

"Infant" failure of electronic components is fairly common and totally unpredictable.

Neither the RX nor HL have the kind of robust 4WD system your GX has. If you often rely on the AWD or even the 4WD capability of your GX then neither of these will provide satisfactory performance on adverse roadbed conditions. I had to add 1.5" wheel spacers on my 2001 AWD RX300 so that tirechains could be used on the rear. But the RX and HL, as shipped, can use tirechains on the front ONLY, a patently unsafe, even hazardous, situation. You might want to consider the new 2006 RAV4 as I am, it seems to have a more substantial 4WD system.

There's also an auto-leveling ECU under the dash near the stearing shaft that monitors the rear axle height sensor and auto-levels the HID lights.

Replace the MAF/IAT sensor module, immediately!

One born every minute....

It is my understanding that Canada requires forward, street/parking, and tail lights be on as DRLs.

The water pump is driven by the same belt as the alternator, not the timing belt. I'm pretty sure the power stearing pump leak is NOT the cause of the alternator failures as many have reported. I repaired my power stearing pump myself and the leak wasn't substantial enough to really do any damage to the alternator. The problem with my alternator at 100k miles was that the slip ring contacts have worn down to nothing the slip ring brushes looked good for another 100k miles. Unless the water pump is leaking I wouldn't bother with it.

That is an indication that you have a rear bulb filament out. Since it only comes on after you apply the brakes the failed filament is one of the brake lights, possibly even the high mounted one.

Check all of the brake light bulbs operation and for proper OEM spec, even the high mount.

That's what I thought at first but for some reason the engine ECU doesn't seem to "learn" that it's being lied too by the IAT signal. Assuming of course that the signal remains within the bounderies designated in the shop manual. I had always thought that these various "tuner" kits, IAT sensor, engine coolant temperature sensor, etc, only worked at WOT so that there would be no pre-emptive learning opportunity. But apparently not.

Both Toyota and Lexus seem to be suggesting that the use of Premium fuels will help to alleviate the transaxle downshift throttle delay sequence. Some posters have indicated that it does seem to help. With that thought in mind has any one tried one of the various HP "boost" systems(***) that modify the IAT (Intake Air temperature) signal? These systems seem to falsify the IAT signal in a way that results in running a richer mixture than the optimum insofar as lower emissions levels are concerned. Seemingly the same effect as using a higher octane in that the engine would be less likely to knock or ping. ***: http://www.hurricane-horsepower.com or google for: "progressive tuner"

You MUST use the correct OEM bulbs in ALL of the rear brake lights includng the high mounted one. If an individual bulb doesn't draw as much current as the original the ECU detects a open filament. If you use LEDs you must parallel them with high wattage resistors.

Repair rear brake lights, replace blown bulb(s). If you converted them to LEDs that is the problem.

The 1992 Lexus shop manual does not cover the internals of the seat.

First, I only run the summer only version of the turanzas, very quiet. Second, assuming your 93 is like my 92 the trac system, unlike later models, is completely separate from the ABS system. Each time you apply the brakes the TRAC ECU checks the available brake fluid pressure at the TRAC accumulator (nitrgen charged, 3000PSI) and if it's not high enough it restarts the TRAC pumpmotor. If it has to restart the pumpmotor ten times in a row then the presumption is that something has failed and it illuminates the diagnostic indication. If the system passes selfcheck the next time you start the engine the indication will be off, but remembered. The dealer will most typicially recommend a full flush of the brake system, of which I agree. The problem is that with a car this old most techies don't know about the extra bleed valves at the ABS pump and another at the TRAC accumulator.

No, you can access that light by removing the wheel well forward splash shield. But once there it might be easier to remove the entire assembly.

I'm embarrassed to admit that I removed, and reinstalled, the drain plug from my diff'l with a set of vise grips. >>>Righty/tighty....Lefty/loosey......!!

Remember that the cooling effect of the "breeze" from the A/C blower is the result of the evaporation of your skin moisture, perspiration. If the humidity of the "breeze" is already quite high, ~70% and above, not much evaporation will occur resulting in your just feeling a warm breeze.

Bridgestone Turanzas, summer tire only. Very QUIET!

Pay attention to the lesson you just learned and leave things be.