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Your post's title says "check engine"... If check engine is actually on then VSC is simply a default, fix the engine "fault" and the VSC will clear automatically.

I don't know of, haven't heard of, nor do I foresee any problems arising from the use of O/D in city commute traffic. The only time I worry about, disable O/D, is driving up a steep or long incline.

Without recommending an AWD RX3x0 to anyone under any circumstances the RX300 has a VC, Viscous clutch, across the center diff'l whereas the RX300 does not. The RX330 relies on brake TC, Traction Control, brake application to (re) apportion engine torque to the rear should the front wheel(s) develop wheelspin/slip. If you feel you truly need AWD capability then look elsewhere.

Would you be so kind as to explain what those circumstances are? My 1999 is getting a new tranny as we speak (type?). I have instructed my wife to de select overdrive when in heavy commute slow traffic so that the tranny will not constantly search for the overdrive.... I too would be interested in that tsb..... So what you guys are saying, is to downshift into 2nd gear when driving in stop and go traffic ???? thanks NO. Downshift manually for full lift-throttle coastdown periods ONLY when you foresee, can predict, that a quick return to acceleration is or might be appropriate. At higher coastdown speeds shift down only to second, below ~10 MPH shift down to first... In both cases the transaxle will not actually downshift until the vehicle roadbed has declined to the appropriate range "safe" for the selected gear ratio. But having "commanded" the downshift will prevent the transaxle from upshifting and thereby leaving you without "GO" should you soon have the need. But I would advise being very carefull against using this technique during cold weather, any suspected slippery roadbed surface, as loss of directional control can very easily result from even a slight level of engine braking on a FWD vehicle. And keep in mind that engine compression braking can also prevent your anti-lock system from being fully operational on a slippery roadbed surface.

Your ES350 is also equipped with BA, Brake Assist, in addition to ABS/EBD/TC/VSC (I probably missed something). BA will undoubtedly provide a few surprises for someone having never experienced even ABS activation. "I get no resistance..." I assume you mean the brake pedal sometimes feels "soft". That will be normal with BA in certain circumstances. If BA is somehow being "triggered" it will provide an unusual, different/additional level of brake assistance making the brake pedal feel somewhat "slack" or soft". It will be as if your passenger, your wife, has beaten you to the brakes. As I understand it the BA "firmware" constantly "watches" the rate at which you move your foot from the gas pedal to the brake pedal and if it is abnormally quick/fast it provides additional power ASSIST on the assumption that this is a PANIC/SEVERE braking "event". I have read that it will even extend the period of severe/heavy braking unless the driver is VERY definitive about/how the brake pedal foot pressure is subsequently released or partially released. I would also suggest that you find a way to expereince ABS actiavation before getting into a situation of actual need.

Quite possibly the brake caliper "slider" bolts siezed and one one brake pad side primarily doing the braking... Or a dealer lookin for, at, deep pockets.

Quite possibly the brake caliper "slider" bolts siezed and one one brake pad side primarily doing the braking...

You can extend the life of your transaxle by doing the best you can to avoid the circumstancs spelled out in the Toyota TSB issued in the spring of 2003 pertaining to the 2003 Camry. It would also help that when those circumstances are unavoidable simply downshift manually simultaneously with lifting the gas pedal. Just remember, keep in mind, that downshifting a FWD vehicle on a slippery surface can be very hazardous.

Hmmm... Why no comparison with/against the Acura RDX with the SH-AWD system, IMMHO opinion that would have much more of a "squeaker", possibly with the RDX coming out on top. HID.... Over the years the HID's have become more efficient and substantially brighter than when first widely introduced. That has resulted in more and more complaints of/by approaching drivers of being blinded by oncoming vehicles equipped with (very recognisable) HID headlamps. Additionally this "problem" has very likely been exacerbated by the availablity of aftermarket systems that do not self-level or are simply aimed too high by the owner/installer. In any case an easy solution is to disassemble the HID headlamp and modify the upward beam shading cutoff so it has a "progressive" cutoff rather than a sharp transition from light to DARK. For instance I used a dremel tool and a small drill and drilled a series of small holes in the shading cutoff apperture, fewer and more widespread holes as I moved farther and farther away from the shading edge. Must like you might see at the top of you windshield as a "progressive" sunshade.

Shortly after purchasing my '01 AWD RX300 I added 1.5" wheel spacers all around so I could upgrade to RH 17X8" wheels and safely use tire chains on the rear FIRST in the event of need. I also went with Michelin Cross terrains (+1") but soon switched to Bridgestone Turanza "summer" tires for the additional ride comfort but more especially the QUIETNESS they provided. Now at 65,000 miles the Turanzas will soon need to be replaced after ~50,000 miles of use. I find that summer tires give me more than adequate traction year 'round except for an icy or packed snow road wherein specialty tires, all-season, mud & snow, etc, would provide little or even NO additional traction capability anyway. The additional "siping", tread blocks, of these specialty tires provide no additional traction unless there is something to "sink" down into. So, when I encounter a roadbed situation wherein the Turanzas do not provide adequate traction the rear tire chains are my first resort and then additionally the fronts if conditions warrant. So I would recommend the "summer" Bridgestone Turanzas, wheel spacers at the rear (to overcome the tire chain restriction due to too tight tire/suspension clearance) a good set, maybe two, of quick-n-easy install tire chains for those rare times of need. What I would like to see is a comparitive test of ordinary summer tires and ANY wintertime specialty tire on an icy or packed snow surface. Instead all we get to see is the additional performance of these specialty ties on RARELY encountered "loose" surface roadbed conditions wherein an expereinced and reasonably cautious driver would do just perfectly fine with the Turanzas. So, yes, there specialty tires are worth the extra cost if you have roadbed conditions that warrant their continuous use. But then I also like skiing best in the early morning on freshly fallen untracked powder snow......

The ones I used are still on Ebay for $75/seat dual level top/back and bottom heaters.

The one I saw removed at 153K miles, 92 LS400, looked as if it would be good for another 150k.

In the 6 years I have owned my '01 about onc ea year or so it seems to get confused in that way, wants a legal U-turn when the destination is still miles away in the direction I'm traveling. Even had instances wherein it guided me to a location clearly not the correct one. In almost all cases a "reselection" of the destination cleared the problem up.

I never really got to doing that project... I hardly ever drive the Rx300 anymore, and my daughter probably doesn't know what fog lights are. Apparently the clear majority of the american car buying public hasn't a clue about what fog lights are or how that are to be used, should be used.

This I understand, but as I said before.......the seats, including the backrests have to be changed or modified to accept heating elements. The Lexus heating elements are designed to fit a Lexus seat perfectly, but as I said, it's a pretty expensive deal. Re-read what I wrote before: I don't know how to spell it out any better! All you're trying to do is give some heat to your frozen butt. LOL :whistles: Having had the experience of installing aftermarket seat heaters in a 98 LS400 I tend to believe the average joe could accomplish the same, no big deal. The seat covers remove fairly easily, bottom and back, the aftermarket kit comes with switches and all the wiring you will need. I purchased mine off of Ebay, dual heating levels, and my friend's wife was simply pleased with the results.

Putting switches in is only part of this retrofit......what about the heated seat elements? If you read my last post correctly you'll have to agree that this type of job is very expensive, done properly! <_< Well, personally I bought the elements and installed them in a friend's '98 LS400 front seats. But I have also purchased two sets of heated and memory front seats off of Ebay. An RX300 set w/memory to put in our MH, and an ES300 set, also w/memory to put in our Ford Aerostar.

Never been a fan of wheel spacers. As you know, MT finds Studs to be legal, so once December 1 hits (if we're up there), we just load up the studded set, take 'em down to big 'O' and have them put the studded set on 'till the end of April. Your point is well taken as far as ALL our winters not being in MT in the 400h. We HAVE only done one whole winter there w/ the 400h. The other 2 were in the Ford Exploader. The full winter we did there wasn't the toughest for the 400h . . . rather the MILD one was. That affords the melt-off to re-freez over night. Then, you have that black ice. But with good momentum, even that's ok. Black ice and momentum and then the eventual uphill curves ... THAT can do you in :D And I'm ABSOLUTELY not a fan of tire studs because of what they do to roadbeds not covered with ice or snow. IMMHO they should either be totally BANNED or a surcharge applied based on the number of days you drive with them for no need.

Lexus cars that came from the factory without the heated seat option use a different wiring harness that does not have the necessary plugs for this operation. To do this you'll need, the proper harness, new/used seats that include the heater elements, switches, relays, and anything else that is normally used on cars so equipped. Very expensive conversion!!! My suggestion to you is to buy aftermarket heated seat pads that'll plug in to your cigarette lighter. Much easier and cheaper. :) Not really..... There are lots of sources for low-off-high control switches that can be mounted within easy reach, say on the side of the seat, and the power can be picked up at the cigarette lighter or even the fuse panel itself.

I can only tell you for certain that the '98 LS400 seats did not include the heating elements if not ordered that way. Look at Ebay....

No, "colored" LEDs...

It's OK, you only'bake' them at a temperature to melt the adhesive, not anything else :whistles: Take them apart and do the mods/spray the lenses them stick them back together with clear silicone or an adhesive similar to the OEM. Not only tail lights, can modify the fogs and mains too using the same method. Always advisable to try it on a spare if doing it for the first time...I've seen some pretty crap efforts, in particular an IS first gen with main headlights reassembled with white bathroom silicone sealant . :o At about 200F the adhesive only softens enough to allow you to separate the parts and you really don't need to add adhesive to rejoin them, just reheat again to soften.

If it's actually knock/ping and the knock sensors are operational a diagnostic code will have been stored in the computer and the dealer will have no questions... If the knock sensor, either bank, is bad the dealer should be able to isolate that fairly quickly. That close to mid-point on the temp guage seems high, an overheated engine block will oftentimes result in knock/ping.

Go to Ebay and buy an ES3xx (or...) driver's seat with memory, buttons are on seat base...move the seat base to...

Usually CA . . . but we keep the 400h up there most of the time, and I think it was 1997 that the Flathead Valley (yes, often called the bananna belt ... but does it really matter if it's -22 degrees in the valley, or at the top of Big Mountain Ski resort / Whitefish? :D ) had their deep snow record: 10+ feet of snow in the low lands ... point being ... deep snow and cold, the 400h has been just as reliable as either of the SUV's we unloaded (4x4 Explorer and our Range Rover). Anywho, we've done 3 winters (all the way thru) there since the 90's and probably 4 or 5 partial. Didn't mean to sound ambigous refering to Glacier ... it's just many folks have at least heard of Glacier. But if you say, Kalispell? ... or Lake Blain? You hear folks say, "where?". Yes, no one in their right mind would try the Glacier pass in Janury (even if it were open). Oh, and thanks for the 3rd degree . . . did I pass? :D First. I wasn't talking about Glacier "pass" (do you mean Going to the Sun Hwy?? ) just the more severe wintertime roadbed conditions east of Glacier vs west. Second, I've never considered deep snow, especially the COLD MT snow, except for getting high centered, to be enough of a challenge even for a decent RWD vehicle. It was always the packed down stuff or ice, or an ice under layment that caused, causes, me the greatest grief. It's now been many years since I bought winter tires. I found that if the surface is "loose" and I don't sink through to the slippery stuff my summer tires do just as well as any winter specialty tires, absent studs. If the roadbed is icy or I'm sinking through to the slippery stuff it's time to put the tire chains on the rear unconditionally anyway. But were I in your shoes I would install wheel spacers, at least at the rear, so tire chains can be untilized safely rather than putting your life at risk with front tire chains only as is "required" by the RXes too tight rear tire/suspension clearance. And yes, you passed the "test". What test...?? Well, maybe not. "three winters (all the way thru) there since the 90's and probably 4 or 5 partial" When did you say you "imported" the RX400h into MT..?? Our 92 Jeep Cherokee Limited has been over on a cattle & wheat ranch, Everson, north of Denton since ~2001, and still giving stellar all year round performance, as likely would your old Ford Explorer. Looks as if "you" passed the test but maybe your RXh hasn't....yet.

"We use ours near Glacier National Park, MT..." Now there is an ambiguous statement...West side or East side of Glacier? On the east side is Browning, Cut Bank, etc, some of the coldest areas in the continental US and often with snow so deep a Hummer wouldn't get through. On the other hand, the west side, basically the Bitterroot valley, is often referred to as the Banana Belt of MT. Ca & MT....Hmmmmm.. And just where do you winter...??? Having myself lived in MT, Lewistown (winter {54 below 0} and summer) with a sister living in Cut Bank, I wouldn't dare take my '01 AWD RX300 into the state at any time of the year absent the ability to install chains on the rear tires (requires modification) and then the front if needed. I have a vivid memory of trout fishing one July day just outside of Lewistown and it began to snow. By the time I decided to take the snow as a serious matter I almost couldn't get back into town.