wwest

Other than being certain it was not Toyota I have not a clue as to what brand anti-freeze I put in my 92 LS400 after running ten years and 100,000 miles on the factory original. Now at 165,000 and still going strong.

"...way too much pressure..." "...they broke it." No chance of that if you turn the ignition on and off.

You may need to find a way to "match" the new transaxle with the "proper" engine/transaxle ECU control firmware version appropreate to your Vin #. For instance the transaxle the third party shop installed in your RX may be from an entirely different model year.

It might be a very long battle as Toyota and Lexus have been having transaxle design problems of one type or another since the '98 introduction of the RX300. I should say one "symptom" or another since it is of my own personal opinion that this all started late in the last century when they decided to downsize the gear type ATF oil pump in order to reduce the heat load, and improve FE, on the Camry transaxle to be used on the HEAVIER RX300. Didn't work but then they didn't discover that before adopting the technique across the entire FWD and F/AWD product line. Oh, throttle "tip-in" surge is a long standing problem with Toyota and Lexus, I first noticed it in my 2000 GS300 and Lexus claimed it was operating as designed. Dumped the GS at 8,000 miles as my wife couldn't stand the unavoidable "jack-rabbit" starts.

Turn the ignition off while the wipers at vertical, then you can lift them from the windshield and clean the entire windshield surface. Same thing when comes the time to replace the rubber wiping elements.

Jim, I think, but certainly am not sure, that the EPR valve has a capillary tube going from it to the expansion valve and that tube has something to do with the expansion valve operation (opening??). But an any case given the "task" assigned to the EPR, regulate the back pressure on the evaporator's refrigerant outlet side, removing it might very well result in "slugging" (liquid refrigerant) at the compressor inlet. On the other hand I'm not so sure that at times the EPR doesn't itself often result in compressor slugging. On my original, bought new, '92 LS, and the '92 I bought later at 150,000 miles, the compressor low side refrigerant return lines will often be coated with 1/4 to 3/8 of rhime ice after about a 150 mile drive. Also, with both of them I have had instances, periods, of zero, ZIP, cooling with substantial blower airflow while traveling up mountainous inclines. I suspect compressor slugging in both instances. I think I would figure out a way to install a more standard expansion valve if I were removing the EPR. On another subject. Methinks that almost all minivans, like my '94 AWD Aerostar, with independent F/R A/C systems include an EPR or some sort of equivalent. So it is a bit surprising to find a shop that has never seen one.

To clarify... To tow a FWD vehicle 4-down all you have to do is use the kit to disconnect one halfshaft. With a RWD the kit provides a means to disconnect the rear driveline. With an AWD such as yours or mine the rear driveline and one halfshaft would need to be disconnected. Since yours is a 2000 and therefore doesn't have TC, traction Control, nor VSC, Vehicle Stability Control, nor electronically implemented AWD (braking) there would be no electronics problem with disconnecting the rear driveline. Since the engine torque is so heavily biased to the front I would not advise disconnecting either front halfshaft in order to disable the front driveline. But keep in mind that MY2000 FWD RX300's did have TC, and north of the snowline often needed it.

It sometimes takes several days to accomplish the specific, various speeds and periods, "drive cycle(s)" needed to reset the CEL. You can reset the CEL by unplugging the battery for ten or fifteen minutes. If it comes on again within a day or so you will know something other than the gas tand vacuum, lack thereof, caused it.

Provided the front driveline torque biasing doesn't interfere you might be able to buy a RV/TOAD kit, RV towing a vehicle, typically 2WD, 4-down. I don't remember the actual source but most any Rv/MH site or magazine will have an ad. Basically you just reach under and uncouple/couple just one of the front halfshafts. If/once my transaxle fails, as seems to be pre-ordained, I plan to overhaul it myself and at the same time convert it to R/AWD, rear torque biasing, via removing the spider gears and front drive side gear from the center differential and then welding the rear side gear in place. Then the ONLY drive to the front driveline will be via the VC, Viscous coupling. But while I expect that will add a significant safety factor for me and mine in my 2001 AWD RX300 it is not easily reversiable and therefore likely not much help to you. On the other hand it might yeild a few extra miles/gallon....

Woburn Toyota is feeding you a bunch of BS and you're very welcome to confront them with this missive. "..noise due to depletion of oil..." And just where, may I ask, did the oil go...? Your A/C system is under a significant level of pressure, therefore is completely and totally SEALED, otherwise the refrigerant itself would have "depleted" long ago. The only, ONLY way to determine if the A/C has sufficient oil mixed in with the refrigerant is to drain, completely pump down, the A/C system and then refill it with a carefully measured amount of refrigerant and refrigerant compatible oil. You can't do that for a mere $69 and include a can of spray lysol too. If you ARE experiencing a mould and mildew odor when the A/C first, initially, begins operating then there are only two solutions that I am aware of, three actually, now that I think it through. Shortly after purchasing my new '92 LS in late '91 I learned that parking it in the garage at night, EVERY NIGHT, with all the windows lowered slightly allowed the cabin and A/C plenum to dry out enough that both problems, early morning instances of sudden windshield fogging and mildew odor, soon abated. For educational purposes primarily, more than any other, read the EED information at airsept.com. Late LS models have a UV light inside the A/C plenum near the evaporator core to kill the microbes that generate the odors. "the clacking noise" The most common noise for A/C operation that fits this "clacking" description is the on and off, ~ maybe 15 second period, operation of the A/C compressor's electro-magnetic clutch. If it truly is bothersome a new clutch would help some but I'm not sure that alone would be enough to quiet the clutch noise.

"reset the computer" How, are you SURE...?? Otherwise my guess you broke the MAF/IAT.

It has become very clear that the '99 RX300 has some sort of serious transaxle design flaw that results in many (probably still a minority) of them failing "prematurely" in the range or 70-80,000 miles. Toyota/Lexus has made no admission of same other than oftentimes compensating, in some manner, owners of failed transaxles outside the warranty. It appears to be indeterminant as to whether the '00 and later models of the RX300 series might or might not be subject to these failures. The fact that Toyota/Lexus adopted DBW with the RX330 probably addressed the failure issue since factory reps have said that DBW is used to "protect the drive train". But I can tell you that the ATF in my 2001 AWD RX300 looked and smelled burned at only ~40,000 miles and I drained and refilled it. My 2001 had no requirement for ATF drain and refill but Bellevue Lexus insisted it needed to be done every 15,000 miles, EXTREME IMMHO. But the factory rep verified that yes, the 15,000 mile term was correct. So here I am at ~65,000 miles, checking the ATF condition upon each oil change, awaiting the coming day (soon?) my transaxle will need to be replaced/repaired.

I have had Porsche service managers tear up and discard written shop work orders once it was discovered that the "work" involved a problem apparently widespread but not addressable via the factory, "operating as designed". Purchased my first Lexus in '91, a new '92 LS. You wouldn't believe the measures a Lexus service manager, or even a service writer, will go to prevent writing up work in this category. I'm quite sure these dealer's service managers are given a head's up very early on when there is something the factory doesn't want recorded. If records are made/kept then there is no plausible denial on the part of the factory. And by the by there are circumstances, circumstances that occur in an entirely normal situations, wherein your VSC will be disabled but with no obvious warning or indication to you.

It has become very clear that the '99 RX300 has some sort of serious transaxle design flaw that results in many (probably still a minority) of them failing "prematurely" in the range or 70-80,000 miles. Toyota/Lexus has made no admission of same other than oftentimes compensating, in some manner, owners of failed transaxles outside the warranty. It appears to be indeterminant as to whether the '00 and later models of the RX300 series might or might not be subject to these failures. The fact that Toyota/Lexus adopted DBW with the RX330 probably addressed the failure issue since factory reps have said that DBW is used to "protect the drive train". But I can tell you that the ATF in my 2001 AWD RX300 looked and smelled burned at only ~40,000 miles and I drained and refilled it. My 2001 had no requirement for ATF drain and refill but Bellevue Lexus insisted it needed to be done every 15,000 miles, EXTREME IMMHO. But the factory rep verified that yes, the 15,000 mile term was correct. So here I am at ~65,000 miles, checking the ATF condition upon each oil change, awaiting the coming day (soon?) my transaxle will need to be replaced/repaired.

If your RX is by any chance still under warranty then get that stuff out of your transaxle IMMEDIATELY and destroy any documentation of same. Otherwise your transaxle is on a fail schedule of 70-80,000 miles anyway so why worry. But if it were mine I would DUMP that wynns stuff immediately in favor of whatever Toyota recommends.

My wife drives this car most of the time. She says it may come on more frequently while driving on a windy road. The shop is going to replace the clock spring to repair an airbag light. Could this be related? I was under the impression VSC was simply traction control or is it similar to Mercedes' ESP? "replace the clock spring to repair an airbag light." "Could this be related?" More correct term would be "rotational (limited) electrical wiring harness using the clock spring technique". So yes, just as the airbag signals are apparently in the "clock spring wiring harness" then also may be the stearing wheel position sensor signals. More likely than otherwise, actually.

Insofar as I am aware there are only two things, sensors, devices, that are unique to VSC, the yaw/acceleration sensor and the stearing wheel position sensor. Do you remember, have you paid close attention, to what actions (quick jerking motion on the stearing wheel, HARD/fast turn, etc.) you might have taken just prior to the VSC coming on?

"would result in lower fuel cost, poorer performance and lower mileage." But does the lower mileage, MPG, exceed the lower cost gain?? And just how often does the average person use WOT, which is the only time lower performance would be noticeable, if even then.

The air suspension on my '92 LS has worked flawlessly for over 150,000 miles. If I buy another RX it WILL have air suspension. Waiting for DFI or a RX hybrid with an I4, or both..?

Were I you I would go out and buy myself several dozen rabbit's foot lucky charms for good luck. Looks as if the previous owner dumped your RX300 with almost perfect timing. Due to a factory design flaw the '99 RXes are highly prone to premature transaxle failures at about 70-80,000 miles.

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I may have said this before but go to airsept.com and read up on their EED, Electronic Evaporator Dryer. With all the things that must be STUFFED under the dash these days, ML stereo, GPS/nav, CD changer, passenger airbag, etc, along with the HVAC system the HVAC plenum and heat exchanging components HAD to get smaller. The funny thing is that in this case smaller mean more efficient heat transfer operation. But small also means water retention capability as in SPONGE. Along with all this has been a continuing effort to improve FE. That has resulted in a "TIGHT SHIP" insofar as inadvertent airflow leakage from, out of, the passenger cabin. The idea is that once the cabin atmosphere has been "conditioned" keep it within that cabin as long as possible. And it certinly hasn't helped that the US patent granted to NipponDenso, Denso US, sort of REQUIRES certain aspects of the HVAC system to comform to specific design aspects defined in the patent. For some of us there are several c-best options that will, can. help. But basically you might find a way to disable the stupid A/C cooling system when it is not necessary for its use. My early solution back in about '93, was to leave the windows down each and every night as my LS sat in the garage. That procedure helps tremendously to lower the propensity for windshield fogging and most certainly helps to reduce the growth rate of the microbes that result in those horrible smelling "leavings".

Serious question, does that apply to transmission service too? I don't believe mine mentions any type of transmission service anywhere. Don't want to open that can of worms again and while I don't disagree with your reccomendation I'd say that you needn't treat the owners manual as "Gospel" especially if you're already out of warranty. I agree that sometimes dealers will try to stick you but your owners manual was written when your car was made, a lot could have changed since then and a lot of things get discoverd about a vehicle line as it goes through its service life. Yes, as with all "general" rules in life there are exceptions. I was/am lucky in that I always DIY my scheduled maintenance, oil changes, etc. Along with that I always do a thorough inspection and that's how I discovered that my ATF was burned at only 40,000 miles. But what would you change, do differently, after the warranty period that would/might lead to the early discovery of the engine sludging (which your engine is subject too), the transaxle failures ('99 and '00{??}), or burned ATF..? Seems to me that if you start down that road.....where do you begin and end..??

"..forced to buy.." NOT..!! But do you not gather all information available before buying...?? Knowledge, properly applied, never hurt anyone.

Good, I really do hate well-founded criticism.