wwest

The situation you describe generally only applies to RWD or R/AWD vehicles with automatic transmissions, and not due to freezing of the rotors. When you have the brakes applied when stopped, or more likely when creeping forward slowly, on an extremely slippery surface the front wheels, due to heavier braking capability, components, will come to a complete stop more easily than the rear wheels. rear wheels which are still being driven even with the engine at idle. The result, generally, is that unbeknownst to the driver the rear wheels are turning ever so slightly and with any sort of lateral banking of the roadbed the vehicle will slide off sideways. Obviously this is not very likely to happen with a FWD or F/AWD vehicle.

Yes, just an the owners manual for any FWD or F/AWD vehicle will state, significantly higher traction at the front vs the rear can be HAZARDOUS. That's also why using tire chains only on the front driven wheels can be so extremely hazardous for someone with no experience. On the other hand higher traction tires, studs, or tire chains only on the drive wheels of a RWD or R/AWD will handle quite nicely.

on the inside? if so ur heater core might be leaking, check your carpet on the passenger side "...experienced the same problem I did early in the ownership..."

I'm just curious as to how many '92 LS400 owners have experienced the same problem I did early in the ownership. Windshield suddenly fogging up about 5 miles into an early morning, cool morning, drive. Windshield fogging up spontaneously, suddenly, seemingly for no reason. Windshield fogging up when driving from a moderately cool (40-50F) climate into a colder, sub-freezing, one.

If I remember correctly, South Bend is pretty flat coutryside, at least it was back in the late fifties, maybe Rochester Hill, MI, too. Personally I would rather drive my RWD '92 LS400 with summer tires over any FWD or F/AWD equpped with the BEST winter tread, in adverse roadbed conditions.

If it's a Panasonic battery it is your original battery which is overdue for replacement. Don't waste your time cleaning or checking it, just replace it and your clock problem will go away. The clock reset is the first indication that your battery is failing. The battery will often test good, even load test good at a auto shop. Quality replacement batteries are available from places like Costco for around $50. Yes, I can confirm the problem is the battery, which needs to be changed. I had the same problem a few weeks back and followed the advice of Lenore (TKU Lenore!), changed the battery and now all is well. Display functions perfectly.-- Good luck. Pauljcl Wait...WAIT... The poster has said NOTHING about the car not starting reliably.... Starting the engine probably represents the HEAVIEST load the battery will bear. The RX clock thing is the first sign that the battery is going. Usually the age of the battery at this point may be another reason to want to replace it. It will still pass a load test and start reliably for quite awhile after that. Most choose not to wait to see how long that actually is. Once you spend $50 for a battery the clock thing is fixed and you are reasonably sure it will start for about another 5 years. Or you can take your chances and wait for that cold night when it will no longer start. Yes, replace the battery and in the process the terminals get CLEANED, along with your pockets. Clean/burnish the battery posts and connections first, 10 minute job.

The dethrottling of the engine is the result of the need to apply braking in order to provide rear (and possibly front) LSD functionality. Absent the dethrottling prolonged "LSD" braking would undoubtedly result in a complete set of warped brake rotors. On the standard RX there is a quick-n-dirty way to disable VSC/TC. Unplug the MAF/IAT connection while the engine is idling, the engine will die, plug things back in, restart the engine. You will have a CEL and VSC/TC disable for the next few drive cycles.

If it's a Panasonic battery it is your original battery which is overdue for replacement. Don't waste your time cleaning or checking it, just replace it and your clock problem will go away. The clock reset is the first indication that your battery is failing. The battery will often test good, even load test good at a auto shop. Quality replacement batteries are available from places like Costco for around $50. Yes, I can confirm the problem is the battery, which needs to be changed. I had the same problem a few weeks back and followed the advice of Lenore (TKU Lenore!), changed the battery and now all is well. Display functions perfectly.-- Good luck. Pauljcl Wait...WAIT... The poster has said NOTHING about the car not starting reliably.... Starting the engine probably represents the HEAVIEST load the battery will bear.

Or first, simply remove, clean, and burnish the battery terminals.

Have you thought about the Lexus IS series, test drove one? IS even has R/AWD version.

My old Ford truck is a 76 F150 4X4 with a built 360, oversize tires on 10" wide rims, with custom interior and body work that I built for my wife. I have 3 sets of chains in the garage and never used one since I've lived in Montana. You said you put your chains on the rear, yet Lexus recommends the front? It takes an idiot or someone with a death wish to put tire chains only on the front of any vehicle. I can't think of an appropriate term for a manufacturer that builds a vehicle, an AWD SUV yet, wherein that is the only option while at the same time advising in the very same owners manual just how unsafe that configuration might be. I think we already affirmed that you live in the banana belt of MT, the bitterroot valley south of Missoula. My MT experience was back in the sixties around Great Falls and Lewistown where tire chains were often the rule of the day during winter. Lexus (and Toyota) not only recommends tire chains only for the front they don't leave enough space in the rear to use even cable "chains".

I can't say much about old Ford trucks since I don't remember as far back as the sixties when driving them in MT was commonplace for me. But I can tell you that the 'vette's suspension is probably "set-up" for low profile 18" tires. Personally I think modern SUVs come equipped with 18" tires strictly for looks and are a definite detriment to handling. My '01 came with 16" and I upgraded to 17X8 and added 1.6" wheel spacers all around. Most of that was done so I could use tire chains on the rear FIRST and add them to the front when needed. Obviously an 8" wheel and wider tread along with overall wider stance will add a lot of stability so I have had no complaints along the line you state. I run with nice quiet and comfortable summer tires all year around and quickly throw on the (rear) chains on the rare occassions of need here in the Seattle area. On our trips to Lewistown we have encountered snow and ice on the passes north and east of Helena a few times but not so bad that I needed the chains.

I was going to change the spark plugs on my '92 at 153,000 miles but the first plug I pulled looked so pristine and "new" I abandoned the project. Other than distributor, rotor, plugs and high tension wires nothing comes to mind over normal oil change, etc.

Probably not, seeing as how if there were no trees there would be no "ring of light".

The knock sensor diagnostic probably means the engine is sometimes running too lean. That can be due to a failing fuel pump, a plugged up fuel filter, or even an engine intake air filter. It would not be unusual for OD to be disabled with a CEL and the Trac is a default condition when there is a CEL. Fix the CEL problem and Trac will be okay.

If you want an upscale SUV then I would suggest Infiniti... All single marque luxury dealers will charge an extraordinary fee for services since they do not have a large "installed base" and upscale products are generally more reliable.

You my friend are the most irritating poster on this site with your hypothetical reasons on many subjects......and in all cases I find you a blowhard that try's to intimidate others by using abbreviations, and unfounded knowledge. A perfect example is the link that you provided for another thread....where other members didn't even understand what the hell you were talking about! :chairshot: Cool it pal! Wow...Double WOW...!! Back many years ago now when I was teaching electronics I tried, really tried, teaching too, at a level, for which the slowest students would follow, would understand. But I soon discovered that when I did that my brighter, brightest students, soon got bored and I "lost" them. So I struck a compromise, I teach, and write dissertations, to the "middle". Extremely sorry if that leaves you and a few others "out".

YAHOO is worse, MUCH worse...!!

As cool as it is "here" at the moment if the engine driven fan is turning at the rate of the engine then you have a failed mechanical coupling.

By the way if you happen to have the system in any of the defrost/defog/demist modes, full or partial, the A/C compressor will always run but without an indciator lit to let you know. The condensor/radiator electric cooling fan (fans for a '92) will always run with the A/C compressor clutch engaged.

"..making a lot of noise when I step on the gas..." That would more likely be the engine driven fan and that might have failed in the "lock" position. I'd have to go look to be sure but most are engaged by a VC, viscous clutch, only if the airflow coming through the condensor/radiator "stack" is overly HOT.

I suspect you might mean the radiator/condensor cooling fan.......?? Otherwise we assume you mean the cabin fan/blower.

Climate control systems use many methods to keep the car temperature comfortable. The reason the compressor goes on at lower temperatures is to control the humidy of the air that blows out of the ducts. As an example: If the outside air temperature is 40 degrees with high humidy, and you have the climate control set to 70 degrees, the air blowing into the car will regulate the car to 70 degrees, but the humidty will also be much higher without the compressor running. When you have the climate control set to auto, it constantly regulates the interior air temperature, humidity, air flow speed and direction to give you optimum comfort. Another example: You'll notice that in cold, high humidy conditions, if you use the climate control without the compressor turned on you'll get fog(moisture) on the inside of the windows, even though the temperature is correct. At this point, turn on the compressor, and the fog will disappear. If the outside temperature is cold, and the humidity is low, then you can use this system without the compressor. Right on amf1932. Excellant reply and is so true. Best explanation for climate control. NOT..! Absolutely NOT..!!! Use of the A/C for dehumdification is a total and complete WILD CARD!!! The A/C cooling evaporator can NEVER cool the incoming FRESH airflow below about 35F and this with the blower motor running at the most EXTREME low speed. In order to dehumidify the incoming airflow the airflow MUST be cooled to its dewpoint or below. The lower the OAT the less is the possibility that the A/C will be an aid in dehumidifying the incoming airflow. Additionally, what do you think happens to all that condensed moisture remaining on the 10,000 square inches of cooling evaporator vanes once the A/C is shut down, say because the OAT declined below 34F, for instance. 30 years ago when cars had adequate flow through ventilation use of the A/C as a possible AID in defogging the windshield or keeping the cabin atmosphere Rh at a low level was a quite reasonable thing to do. But nowadays with the exhauster ports reduced to minmum anbd the cars so welled sealed to improve FE it is more of a hazard than an asset. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=42987

Agreed, absolutely....

You very likely have a partially plugged up injector on bank #1. The knock sensor code is simply the result of the bad injector(s...??), the mixture on that cylinder cannot be enriched enough to prevent knocking/pinging.