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Hey folks, the described odor does NOT fit the traditional A/C mould and mildew odor, not even close. When the engine is under heavy load, acceleration, the exhaust manifold/pipe forward of the muffler is under an extraordinary level of pressure. If the EGR tube has failed, not an uncommon occurrance, it is highly likely the exhaust gasses will enter the cabin. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the EGR valve atop the rear of the engine closed, not allowing exhaust gasses to flow back into the intake manifold, during acceleration? That would increase the pressure in the EGR tube even to a greater level.

"..for your own safety..." I will be 68 this year, wintertime driving expereince in New England, Goose Bay, Barrow, Anchorage, fairbanks, MT, WY, OR and WA. Lived here in the NW since '65, enjoyed lots of snowskiing and often travelled throughout the NW during the winter. So, no thanks, I'll stick wityh my own life's experience, but thank you anyway.

Believe it or not, there actually have been independent tests done in ice rinks (beyond the commercials or ads that were referred to above)--a quick search should uncover one. I have often seen ice rink testing of one type/brand of winter specialty tire against a different type/brand of winter specialty tire but never against a summer tire vs..... I believe Tire Rack also did an independent (brand-agnostic) test--the results were surprising, with some of the best non-studded winter tires performing similarly (or better) than studded tires on ice, and of course much better in less adverse conditions where studs greatly reduce braking ability and cornering traction on dry or merely wet (not frozen) road conditions.

No small accident, about 12 paragraphs down, that the ny times calls out the big 3 auto, miss-ordered ~ GM., Toyota and FoMoCo, when in fact, world wide, Toyota has passed GM for the number ONE spot as auto manufacturing king. Could it be GM's advertising with the NY times that caused this re-ordering? Naaahhh. :P I wouldn't subscribe to the New York Times if it was the only source of bird cage liner in the nation. Tom Tell me you're a WSJ subscriber... I like thinking of the WSF (only) as a bird card liner.

I have to disagree. First of all, AWD beats either FWD or RWD anytime any place. Next, the aggressive tread of a winter tire will give you better traction in snow than any summer or all season tire. Otherwise we may as well be driving around on slicks in the winter. Lastly, temperature is as important in how a tire performs as is the amount of snow you're in. The lower the temp, the less traction for a summer tire or all season even on dry roads. What I was trying to convey is that FWD and F/AWD (front torque biased AWD) vehicles are UNSAFE, more unsafe, even when shod with winter specialty tires, when compared to my 92 LS400 with summer tires. And since my summer tires clearly have more roadbed contact surface area they will ALWAYS have better traction on a hard smooth surface, slippery or no. And let's not bring up that old saw about rubber formulation, winter tires getting softer in cold weather, there is absolutely no foundation for anyone believing those same "softening" formulations are not also used on summer tires. When I see winter specialty tires being tested successfully against summer tires on an ice skating rink then, and only then, will I become a believer. It's been done in an indoor hockey rink here in Canada for tv ads. No comparison between winter tires and anything else. Your argument that "my summer tires clearly have more roadbed contact surface area" is moot because if you're on snow you have no road contact. In that circumstance your traction is totally dependant on how well your tire can grip and clear the snow. The only reason there is a tread on summer tires at all is to clear water on a wet road. The best traction you can get on clear and dry asphalt is on tires with no tread. It's obvious that the aggressive tread pattern and depth of that pattern in winter tires, is designed to give you an advantage with snow. May I even so politely say I do not believe you...? The tests I have witnessed indicated that the tire with the most surface contact area always provided the most traction on ice or packed snow. On a loosely packed surface, yes the winter specialty tire outperforms. But like finding perfect powder for skiing, loosely packed roadbed surfaces, ADVERSE roadbed traction surfaces, seem to be few and far between.

To be fully "fleshed out" the Lexus line needs a RAV4 or a Sienna both as a hybrid and..... I'll vote for the RAV4.... But with a mechanical driveline to the rear like the FEH/MMH.

The A/C odor of microbial "leavings" is most generally described as an old dirty gym sock odor, not the smell of a hair salon after a "perm". There is the additional question of the odor only occuring under acceleration. As a side note I often notice that when I first start my RX300 the exhaust odor is not what I normally expect. Also, some years ago I noticed that my '92 LS400 under acceleration, uphill, the cabin would sometimes begin to smell. My guess would be that somehow some of the exhaust gasses are geting into the cabin but are not really noticeable except under acceleration when the odor turns "weird", sort of like burning paint thinner. Has anyone thought to check the EGR valve and return tube..??

I have to disagree. First of all, AWD beats either FWD or RWD anytime any place. Next, the aggressive tread of a winter tire will give you better traction in snow than any summer or all season tire. Otherwise we may as well be driving around on slicks in the winter. Lastly, temperature is as important in how a tire performs as is the amount of snow you're in. The lower the temp, the less traction for a summer tire or all season even on dry roads. What I was trying to convey is that FWD and F/AWD (front torque biased AWD) vehicles are UNSAFE, more unsafe, even when shod with winter specialty tires, when compared to my 92 LS400 with summer tires. And since my summer tires clearly have more roadbed contact surface area to ride on top of whatever covers the actual base surface, ice , packed snow, etc, they will ALWAYS have better traction on a hard smooth surface, slippery or no. And let's not bring up that old saw about rubber formulation, winter tires getting softer in cold weather, there is absolutely no foundation for anyone believing those same "softening" formulations are not also used on summer tires. When I see winter specialty tires being tested successfully against summer tires on an ice skating rink then, and only then, will I become a believer.

Clary overhauled your old transaxle or did they simply sell you a remanufactured one...?? I ask because with an overhaul the cause of the failure should have become obvious. Where did you buy it certified, Lexus dealer?

you have a slightly warped rotor and a brake caliper stuck in the extended position.

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Trac only operates (..the brakes..) at the rear. Check and make sure your brake lights aren't always on and therefore ABS is activating even with no "braking".

You said it still happened in neutral but you didn't clarify "standing still" neutral or "rolling" neutral. I assumed "rolling" neutral. An e-brake cable binding right at the R/L "split" would/could result in the symptoms you describe.

The knock sensor code could mean that you have a partially plugged injector.... Or low fuel pressure......

Release the e-brake, or adjust it, or look under the car for something trapped in the e-brake actuation cables. Or mayb even an improperly installed wheel balance weight striking the e-brake cable.

"..I called the dealership and they said to bring it in on Saturday..." On a flatbed...?? Or did you drive it in? Did it drive normal except for all the indicator lights..?

They know all too well about the transmission problem. That's why they are now recommending a flush every 15-30k miles, because the fluid overheats and burns up over time.. The lifetime transmission fluid doesn't quite make it. Personally, I think the factors in overheating are the weight of the vehicle, the underpowering of the vehicle, and the AWD transaxle that probably requires a more efficient cooling system. Anyway, I'm just going to continue having mine flushed until they wear out. I still wonder who in Lexus is recommending the flush every 15-30K to you. I find this odd when most Lexus dealers don't even have a flush machine. It sounds like a dealer with a flush machine out to maximize profit. I am not trying to debate benefits of flush just asking a simple question. I am on a 15k drain and fill schedule which is about the same end result of a 30k flush schedule. I have nothing against a flush except small chance of moving debris around and the cost. Plus it's not a DIY project except for the method of disconnecting one of the cooler lines and using the trans to pump the fluid out. I may even have a flush done if I am at the Toyota dealer for any future work. When at only 40,000 miles I discovered that the ATF in my '01 AWD RX300 appeared to be, and smelled, burned I contacted Lexus directly and their response was that I should contact my dealer. Sure. I had not contacted the dealer initially since I knew what their response would be, "empty your pockets". But. I contacted the dealer and was told that the recommended service interval for the ATF had been revised from NEVER to every 15,000 miles. I didn't believe the dealer but Lexus informed me that yes, the dealer was giving me the straight scoop. So I drained and refilled my ATF TWICE. The first time I was not aware of the need to separately drain the diff'l of ATF "trapped" there. The second time I went ahead and dropped the pan. The bottom of the pan was covered with about 1/8" of what looked like ground up pencil lead. There were three magnets attached(attracted??) to inside of the pan but IMMHO no significant level of metal filings attached. The "filter" turned out to be nothing more that a filter "screen", obviously designed more to keep large particles from re-entering the hydraulic system than doing any real filtering of the ATF. I would say that if anyone ever finds one of these filter screens even partially blocked then you have a serious problem on your hands.

You are absolutely correct. There is way too much negativity on these message boards. It seems that in my quest to find an upscale vehicle every board that I go onto there is a rash of negative comments. I guess that only those that have problems with their vehicles post often and the satisfied owners just browse. Do you realize that a slight imperfection can dramatically enhance an already beautiful thing?? Like Marilyn Monroe's mole..??

Did you maybe mean SEXIST, not SEXY...?? Really nice ankles though..!!

There are only cosmetic differences, the Aviator IS an Explorer. Its not like the Highlander and the RX. Explorers aren't so bad. I mean, they're not Toyota-reliable but my 97 is still trucking along (my parents use it as a third car) and it has like 190k miles. It needed a new tranny at 70k which was common for Explorers of that era, and its had its share of problems along the way but nothing so major that it would have made sense to replace it. I would buy another Explorer. The 02+ model has shown itself to be quite reliable. I think were I in the market I would go for one of the OLDER Explorers made before they BALLOONED out the fenders, doors and body panels to make it look bigger than the Ranger PU wheelbase warrants.

Actually I've been wondering if the RXh and HH might actually be using this technique to derate the V6 engine and thereby improve FE.

A google search for: Allen Vaught toyota Should result in an email list.

'08 Toyota/Lexus New Car Features.. In order to eliminate, alleviate, the 1-2 second transaxle downshift delay/hesitation the '08 MY engine /transaxle ECU control firmware has been revised to recognize the rate at which the gas pedal is released. Apparently a QUICK gas pedal release will indicate a desire to slow the vehicle more rapidly and therefore it will be more likely to remain in a lower gear, the current lower gear. On the other hand a slow gas pedal release will indicate the driver's intent to enter cruising mode and therefore the transaxle will likely upshift as normal. As I have said before, the problem arises when the vehicle has been operating in a lower gear range, say for moderate acceleration, then the driver goes into a brief full lift throttle period, coastdown, and then re-applies throttle to return to the acceleration mode. Such as might often happen in an acceleration lane of a freeway. The smallish (for FE) ATF pump cannot supply enough flow for two quick sequential shift sequences, especially with the engine at idle as a result of the full lift throttle period. So the idea, new "fix", is to try and detect, sense, the driver's intent by recognizing the rate at which the gas pedal is released. The difference between QUICK and SLOW...?? Probably a LEARNED driver style/technique parameter once you start the car in motion and continuing, continuous relearning, until you turn the ignition key off. I would imagine that for most driver's this "new feature" will undoubtedly result in reducing substantially the number of times the 1-2 second delay/hesitation symptom is encountered. The shift flare.... It looks as if the fill level of the transaxle might have been the problem all along. The new transaxles are sealed, no dipstick, and the instructions for dealer drain/refill clearly imply that the fill level, under or over, is EXTREMELY critical. The instructions imply that the fill level, adjusted according to current ATF temperature, must be correct within 200ml, about a fifth of a quart. I suspect the dipstick has been removed to take the DIY owner/driver, or anyone unknowledgeable of the correct procedure, out of the loop.