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I suspect this all has something to do with the higher complexity, more technology, of the later models. Our '95 has "pre-tensioning" front seat belts. Apparently the tension is supposed to be fairly light until fastened and the ignition is on and only then is there enough tension to really pull the belt snug. Additionally the owners manual indicates an airbag-like explosive device to rapidly TIGHTEN the seatbelts upon a front end collision. Maybe this will help Yes, I expect that after I put the retractors back together I will add the teflon(?) tape for good measure. But no, it is pretty clear that my base problem has to do with the broken and misaligned clockspring shafts. I have already cleaned and re-lubed all four (two for each retractor) clocksprings.

For references just google: "Willard West" Or/and: wwest denso demist

First, and foremost, I NEVER consider a warranty in the process of buying tires, and especially so, brake pads. Think about it, do you want brake pads that last 80-100,000 miles? How do you suppose they do that? IMMHO tires would be the same way, a long warranty would most likely mean HARD tread rubber. I don't object to or refuse a tire tread wear mileage warrantly, but be careful of the "extreme" (beyond reason) ones. That becomes especially true when considering winter, TRUE winter, specialty tires. My recommendation, keeping in mind that here on the eastside of Seattle we more often go to the snow and ice rather than have it come to us, is Bridgestone Turanza summer "only" tires. These give me the most comfortable and quietest ride imagineable. For those rare slippery roadbed times I always keep at least one set of tire chains on board for the rear and put the second set for the front onboard during the winter months. If you feel you need something a bit better my experience ('94 AWD Aerostar) with Michelin cross terrains has been impressive. But the Aerostar also always has a set of tire chains on board for the snow skiing trips into the mountains. You've undoubtedly seen our mountain pass news today. Closed, closed, and closed.

The RX330, and the RX350, has adopted DBW E-throttle "to protect the drive train". Basically to prevent premature transaxle failures resulting from inadequate ATF line pressure during a downshift, downshift for acceleration, subsequent too, quickly following, an upshift resulting from a slight, moderate, or full throttle lift. Unless the ATF begins to show signs of contamination or over-heating, smelling and looking burned, I would abide by the factory recommendations in your owners manual. Regardless I would recommend ALWAYS checking the condition of your ATF at each and every oil change interval.

From '92 LS400 shop/repair manual. Code 21 is the solar light sensor ciruit. 22 is "locked" compressor. 23-30 not used. 31 is open/short in the reheat/remix damper position sensor circuit. 32 is open/short in the air inlet (fresh/recirc.) damper position sensor circuit. 33 [a] open in reheat/remix damper position circuit, or... 33 open/short in reheat/remix damper servomotor circuit, or.... 33 [c] Remix/reheat servomotor "locked"/stalled. 34 [a] open in air inlet damper position sensor, or... 34 open/short in air inlet servomotor circuit, or... 34 [c] air inlet servomotor locked/stalled.

Has anyone yet done this? If so what value resistors did you substitute into the light failure sensor circuit? I did this on my '01 RX300 but don't remember what resistor sizes I used. Anyone know if the sensing resistor in the turn/hazard flasher will also need to be changed? Or do I simply switch to an aftermarket electronic flasher?

Being an absolutely committed DIY'r, I decided to do make-shift repairs. A friend with a metal turning lathe is making me new clockspring shafts from a 3.8" rolled steel rod. The driver's side shaft was broken and the one on the passenger side was either assembled with the outer/small section crooked or in 210,000 miles it had worn down in that fashion. The original shafts were made of plastic. Will advise.

Just guessing but if you didn't have a light shining on the sunlight radiation sensor the diagnostic will stop there showing it as a failure. Holding a shop light above it usually gets you past that "fault".

Insofar as I know, have been able to learn, only a few of the '08 models have a Trac & VSC sequential "off" button. TC must be turned off first and only then can the same button be used to turn off VSC. But more to the point I suspect that you would NEVER wish to turn off VSC whereas there have been many requests, posts, regarding the need, justifiable need IMMHO, to turn TC off. TC, Traction Control, is the system that prevents wheelspin/slip resulting from too much engine torque being applied to the driven wheels fro current roadbed conditions. There are times when a slight bit of wheelspin can be of help, say in roacking the car back and forth to get unstuck.

Good points. Can you mention the forums? Hood struts on ebay at the moment for $25 pair.

The online technical specifications and the sales brochures, dealer supplied and online e-brochure, for the RX350 continue to state that the AWD system is based on the VC, Viscous Clutch, across the center diff'l. The Lexus shop/repair manuals at techinfo.toyota.com indicate the VC is NOT used in the later models, the RX330 & RX350. The following was in my email archives.... --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ...Recently you submitted a question to the Lexus Customer Satisfaction Department. We will assume your issue has been resolved if we do not hear from you within 120 hours. Thank you for allowing us to be of service to you. You may also update this question by replying to this message. Because your reply will be automatically processed, you MUST enter your reply in the space below. Text entered into any other part of this message will be discarded. [===> Please enter your reply below this line Please enter your reply above this line <===] If your issue remains unresolved, please update this question at <a href="http://lexus.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/lexus.cfg/php/enduser/acct_login.php?p_userid=west@strobedata.com&p_next_page=myq_upd.php&p_refno=041026-000006&p_created=1098835191" target="_blank">http://lexus.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/lexus.cfg/php/enduser/acct_login.php?p_userid=- west@strobedata.com&p_next_page=myq_upd.php&p_refno=041026-000006&p_created=1098- 835191</a> Subject --------------------------------------------------------------- No Summary Discussion Thread --------------------------------------------------------------- Response (Richard Hollingsworth) - 10/27/2004 09:41 AM Dear Mr. West, Thank you for contacting Lexus Customer Satisfaction regarding the 2005 RX 330. We appreciate your interest in this vehicle. Per our technical department, the 2005 RX 330 does not have a viscous coupling LSD. The vehicle has adopted a full-time all-wheel drive system. We are sorry for the misinformation. If you would like to discuss your concerns further, you can also reach the Lexus Customer Satisfaction Department at 1-800-255-3987, Monday through Friday, 6:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., Pacific Time. Sincerely, Richard Hollingsworth Lexus Customer Satisfaction Customer (Willard West) - 10/26/2004 04:59 PM The current 2005 RX330 e-brochure indicates that the 2005 AWD RX330 has the viscous coupling again. Is this actually true or is this a typo? Willard West

Found this in my past emails... Recently you submitted a question to the Lexus Customer Satisfaction Department. We will assume your issue has been resolved if we do not hear from you within 120 hours. Thank you for allowing us to be of service to you. You may also update this question by replying to this message. Because your reply will be automatically processed, you MUST enter your reply in the space below. Text entered into any other part of this message will be discarded. [===> Please enter your reply below this line <===] [===> Please enter your reply above this line <===] If your issue remains unresolved, please update this question at http://lexus.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/lexus.cf...ated=1098835191 Subject --------------------------------------------------------------- No Summary Discussion Thread --------------------------------------------------------------- Response (Richard Hollingsworth) - 10/27/2004 09:41 AM Dear Mr. West, Thank you for contacting Lexus Customer Satisfaction regarding the 2005 RX 330. We appreciate your interest in this vehicle. Per our technical department, the 2005 RX 330 does not have a viscous coupling LSD. The vehicle has adopted a full-time all-wheel drive system. We are sorry for the misinformation. If you would like to discuss your concerns further, you can also reach the Lexus Customer Satisfaction Department at 1-800-255-3987, Monday through Friday, 6:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., Pacific Time. Sincerely, Richard Hollingsworth Lexus Customer Satisfaction Customer (Willard West) - 10/26/2004 04:59 PM The current 2005 RX330 e-brochure indicates that the 2005 AWD RX330 has the viscous coupling again. Is this actually true or is this a typo? Willard West

What did you have to pay for the new retractor?

Damn! Superglue did not hold up and passenger side retractor had exactly the same problem. Lexus of Bellevue wants $210 each. Other parts sources that someone recommends?

'92 LS400, spring picnic in the Missouri breaks, North Central MT.

I suspect this all has something to do with the higher complexity, more technology, of the later models. Our '95 has "pre-tensioning" front seat belts. Apparently the tension is supposed to be fairly light until fastened and the ignition is on and only then is there enough tension to really pull the belt snug. Additionally the owners manual indicates an airbag-like explosive device to rapidly TIGHTEN the seatbelts upon a front end collision.

Of what good is it to know the OAT is below -30C...??

My assumptions from your post are that blower still works and A/C indicator is on solid...... What happens if you put it in max cool/COLD setpoint? In that position all of the sensors are ignored so if it works there you have a sensor failure. Also if OAT sensor has failed and is indicating OAT below ~34F the A/C compressor is disabled.

Got overly brave last night but then discovered there is a way, built in, to disable/disarm the gas generator, explosive. So I completely disassembled the tensioner and discovered that the clock-spring center shaft was broken. Super-glued it back together, cleaned and lubed the components and reassembled. Same problem. Except the procedure of depressing the buckle release "button" now results in the belt retracting provided the ignition is on. So now I guess I get to disassemble the buckle side to see if the switches are working correctly.

The more common, most common, driver informed me this morning that if you depress the seat belt release button the belts will retract and then you can fasten them and they will act "normally". I suspect that means that the pre-tensioner mode, 12 volt to the solenoid, is always dis-engaged due to a shorted/failed switch inside the release buckle. Depressing the button forces the switch open, I guess. Will check this evening and advise.

In order to increase FE by preventing "ventilation loss" the car is extremely well sealed against air outflow and the REQUIRED exhauster port is being made as small as possible. One of the advantages of the old Ford station wagons where you could lower the rear window slightly, or the rear quarter panel "winglets" taht can be opened on many minivans.

And if you rest your hand lightly on the shifter...? Is the stearing wheel vibration rotational or....?

Our '95 LS400's front seat belts are always "slack" and will not retract. Tensioner fuse seems to be okay as you can feel a change, slight change, when the ignition is switched on. Anyone with a solution/experience. Owners manual has several cautions about working on belt retractors. 210,000 miles.

My troubleshooting technique, ~50 years in developement, would have meant purchasing/replacing the rear oxygen sensors first, then if "cat" fault still indicated I would replace the cat. I would be surprised if the front oxygen sensors need to be replaced at all. The rear oxygen sensors are used to verify the operational functionality of the catalyst. The front oxygen sensors are used to control the A/F mixture during idle or cruising, the MAF/IAT sensors take over that task when the engine is under acceleration loading, mixture is being enriched (~12:1) beyond the measurement capability of the front oxygen sensors. $120 for catalytic converters...?? Are you sure those aren't just straight (bypass) pipes? Too much back pressure..?? Exhaust back pressure..?? That would most likely mean the internal "honeycomb" structure containing the catalyst has broken down and is partially blocking the exhaust flow. Would generally mean the catalytic converter exterior will glow cherry red with heat at night after a ~20 minute hard run.

Think modified Strat Purchased a Gibson "Lucille" at the 2000 Memphis Blues Ball with BB's signature but still trying to coordinate a time/place for him to actually play it.