wwest

There is an axle height sensor on the rear suspension, adjusting it is easy and will result in different "level" position for the headlamps.

Noticed a motorcycle coming toward me yesterday with headlamp on for "DRL" and the headlight seemed to be modulated at a fairly low frequency rate. Does anyone know for sure at what rate and the percent of modulation and is this legal? Sure gets one's attention!

My 01 AWD RX330 now has 38k miles and has NEVER been in the shop, any shop. 7500 miles oil and oil/air/air/filter changes and nothing else. Same with my 92 LS at 94k miles except I did have to drain flush and replace the factory anti-freeze this past year. Oh, yes, I did replace the driver's side rear oxygen sensor several years ago on the LS.

Visit your local wrecking yard, entire traction control !Removed!'y for 92 cost me $50, DIY installation, and $110 to have the brake fluid drained and flushed. ON the other hand TRAC on these early cars has proven to be mostly useless, so...... Remove the bulb.

An hour?? Twenty minutes flat, 8 minutes each side. Rear pads only, 4 minutes for the guinness before your wife figures out you need another honeydo item.

search for this title minus "update".

IMMHO opinion the only way an evaporator will/should fail is through a leak. I would have the new stuff you bought installed, chage the system with r-134a (inexpensive) and see if it leaks away within a few days. Then I would start to believe the evaporator is leaking. But given that the is the single most labor intensive HVAC item to replace I would certainly get a second opinion before tearing into the A/C plenum. In any case I happen to have a brand new 92 LS A/C evaporator and I don't know if it will fit but if all else fails then let me know.

I suppose that's why most manufacturers open the compressor clutch circuit at WOT even on 300HP engines. And during idle/stopped times when the A/C clutch kicks in it opens the throttle further to maintain the engine idle rate and prevent it from stalling.

Strange..... I expected that my suggested use of the A/C posted earlier would result in better highway MPG which it does, ~22MPG with factory A/C vs ~24 with new method. But the improvement in city MPG seems to be on the order of 30%.....!! After thinking about it a bit I think I understand why. The average speed in the city is quite low so it takes significantly more time to get from point "A" to point "B" relative to hwy. Higher percentage of time the A/C is being used vs vehicle moving forward. Neat surprise.

Keep the $15k in your pocket in case you need to repair the LS. Screw the A8, it's an Audi.

High mounted brake light??

We seem to be confusing speed with "quick". I have driven my 92 LS just as fast in MT, Browning to Cut Bank, as I have my 911 on the Autobahn. That's speed. I care not how competitively either car can go from 0 to 60.

Downhill.....

A drop of motor oil...? NO! NOT! Anti-sieze compound maybe, but NEVER motor oil. Torque specifications are predicated on non-slippery threads.

If I buy an RX330, it will absolutely certainly have the performance package. Air suspension, right?

If it's like my 92 LS and the TRAC system dethrottles the engine at the same time it applies the rear brakes to stop wheelspin then it should always be turned off each and every time you start it. Too many times my car went squeek-squeek over those plastic SLIPPERY crosswalk strippings, appied the brakes and dethrottled the engine and left me for too many minutes with no throttle control while entering a line of traffic. Later models, the 2000 GS for certain, delayed the dethrottling slightly to give the driver time to react and back off the gas.

I would suspect that if you're asking this question then you should NOT be buying an RX330. Think seriously about that big Dodge SUV with its impressive, MANLY front grille and huge HEMI engine. RX330's and 300's are like minivans, made for women and/or men that are certain, comfortable, of their station in life. Otherwise the RX330 is an absolutely wonderful choice.

1. n/a 2. Traction OFF?? Or traction diagnostic? If the latter then have the brake system drained and flushed and be sure that whoever does the work uses the extra flush/drain valves at the Traction pumpmotor/accumulator (on the firewall directly in front of the driver) and the one at the ABS pumpmotor (under/behind the engine air filter). The early LS traction functionality is useless anyway so if this doesn't cure it just pull the power connector at the pumpmotor. 3. Check the U-joints. 4. Read my recent post over on the RX300 thread. 5. The USAF museum in Tucson is an interesting stop. 6. Bridgestone Turanzas for QUIET. If you're in no real hurry when you turn North I would spend some time in SFO and then Napa valley. The Oregon coast highway is a wonderful drive. Then there is St Helens nearby.

This procedure is something of a nuisance but with fuel prices rising..... I have already had my dealer disable the A/C system using C-best options (two) in "normal", automatic mode, and in defrost/defog/demist mode. Below 65F OAT A/C is a total waste of fuel as it only serves to dehumidify the incoming airflow and during the summer that capability is useless. I am also in the process of installing an electrically, 12 volt, operated water flow control valve so that NO hot water flows to the climate control heat exchanger during cooling mode. Eliminating even the radant heating effects within the A/C plenum area. The way our systems work is that once the cabin has reached the approximate temperature setpoint the incoming airflow is first chilled to as low as 34F and then via the reheat/remix servomotor and vane airflow routing system some of the airflow is reheated (190F engine water jacket) and then both portions are remixed such that the airflow reaching your body surfaces is not so cool as to be discomforting. If you avoid the reheat/remix cycle then the A/C system becomes dramatically more efficient. Here is the way that can be done. Turn the system to max cold, put the system in recirculate mode (some systems will do this automatically), and now use the blower speed manually to regulate your comfort level. You can also alleviate some of the discomfort of the now COLD dash outlet airflow by selecting combined floor and dash outlets. I would not recommend floor only in that the intake airflow for recirulate mode is too near the floor/footwell outlets. Sometimes when the OAT is below 65F but the interior has been warmed by the sun I use the A/C to first cool the car down and then switch it off. I NEVER use the A/C in defrost/defog/demist mode, especially in the wintertime as that will always lead to follow-on windshield fogging due to the design flaw of the Lexus climate control system. Besides which, although Lexus relies totally and completely on the dehumidification capabilities of the A/C for defogging and/or preventing fogging of the windshield/windows, the A/C will be automatically shut down if/when the outside temperature declines below 35F. If your windshield begins to fog over then apply HEAT and then maintain the windshield surface temperature at an elevated level to prevent further instances of fogging.

Contact Lexus at: customer_satisfaction_inquiries@lexus.com

I have the shop manuals and insofar as I can determine they have no specific indication of which drive bolts the owner's manual refers to. If I actually wanted to know I would go and ask the Lexus service manager, they are usually quite friendly (even to me, wow!) and willing to help. But be prepared for a sales pitch about some add-on or another.

I have assumed that is a dealer "make work" routine. I have heard it only applies to the rear driveline of AWD models. My 01 AWD RX300 has about 35k miles and I'm not at all concerned about retorqueing drive bolts, or whatever.

When I bought my first Lexus, a 92 LS400 in late 91, it went directly to a body shop for removal of all the badges.

"AWD/4WD is out of the equation for stopping and steering..." NOT! When attempting to change direction on a slippery surface with FWD or front torque biased AWD the engine drive or lag torque will often interfere. Toyota has already wised up and realized the serious nature of 4WD during braking and stopping or slowing quickly. Their newest 4WD system cannot be activated unless the transmission is in first gear and the "transfer case" is in low range. Before abandoning FWD alltogether Cadillac was using an over-running clutch within the transmission so the front "driven" wheels didn't reflect the engine lag torque to the roadbed. And now most modern day FWD and front biased AWD vehicles use automatic transmissions that shift upwards, or maybe even into neutral, during any coasting, slowing or stopping event, Highlander and RX included, to help avoid loss of control on adverse roadbed surfaces.

The DVD Nav system, actually ALL of the RXes ECUs, use a serial multiplex line for internal communications. After lots of research, trial and error, I have concluded that the in motion inoperative mode cannot be defeated. On the other hand the DVD door can be left open when the system is not in use to avoid the "i agree" nonesense.