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Lexuszeal

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Everything posted by Lexuszeal

  1. How can I be certain that the relay is functioning to specifications?
  2. If your 98 is set up similar to the early model do the ps pump leak first.. as it will leak power steering fluid into your alternator and ruin it very very fast-- then you have another fix on your hands! Next I would do the oil pan leak b/c thats real easy to do and not real expensive either you can use high temperature red sealant on that. Afterwards move to the head gasket and yes its easy for me but I like to do the DIY things.. I just got done installing a new 60,000 mi used engine in my 90LS4hundred. soo while your changing the head gaskets you might look into the cam seals also.
  3. This is a relatively easy procedure. Remove the rear seat and backrest. Directly in the center of the fuel tank you will see a metal plate with 8 or so small bolts. Remove this plate and this will give you access to the fuel pump. Carefully remove the fuel pump and associated parts. You will likely want to have some plastic or a tarp by this step in order to remove the fuel pump without fuel dripping everywhere inside your car. From here you will have the general idea, as you say, of what needs to be done to clean the fuel pumps pickup mesh. When I did this I simply used some extra seafoam I had around to clean the screen. But I assume you can also use water as long as you allow it to dry before reassembling the pump into the fuel tank. Good luck
  4. Pressurization is perfectly normal it is suppose to be that way. When you are refueling be careful to remove the cap and let the air out slowly.
  5. So today I remove my fuel pump from the tank to see if it works- i hook it to a battery and voila it does in fact work! But just before removal I turn my key to "on/run" and no fuel pump operation... even when B+ and Fp are bridged! I reinstall the fuel pump as I know it works.. turn the key to on and hear it working b/c the lines were free from fuel. try to start the car and the engine would not start.. soo i turn the key to on again and no operation of fuel pump even with B+ and Fp bridged?? Ok Strange so I am led to believe now that I have a completely blocked fuel filter because I have no fuel pressure at the fuel rails. And if I remember correctly the fuel pump will not operate if it believes there enough pressure in the lines.. so this would have to be the fuel filter right? I am stumped
  6. Cleaning the filter involves removing the transmission pan. Be careful when prying the pan b/c the seal will be very strong and you do not want to damage any part of the pan. After removal you will see the screen and be able to remove the filter with just a few screws. Clean this part out with a hose or otherwise. Also clean the pan and all other parts from any metal debree you may find. You can now reseal the pan with high temperature red seal or a gasket if they make one.. After drying you can flush the transmission. This is relatively simple and I believe you can find the tutorial here http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/transmissio...sflush.html---- this is how I flushed my system. It is likely that your tranmission is experiencing these problems by improper use of the correct fluid.. It is very neccessary and important that you use only Toyota Type IV transmission fluid from the toyota dealer.. you can buy a case for a discounted price too. Do this so you have extra for the flush. And lastly if I remember correctly the speed sensor I had to change "#2" is on the drivers side of the transmission. Its a fairly cheap sensor from the dealer and easy to change.
  7. In the end I flushed my tranmission completely with Toyota Type IV transmission fluid. There was quite a bit of metal blocking the screen that did not allow fluid to flow through it after driving for a short time. Cleaned all this out and flushed, then replenished and topped off with Toyota Type IV Transmission fluid and have had no problems since.. runs like new! ;)
  8. Changed my 20amp EFI fuse b/c it was blown so now I have CEL and O/D light along with spark on all wires. Definitely no fuel still so I will have to look into my fuel pump and or fuel filter but I cant figure why it would work intermittently so this is surely a tricky diagnosis!
  9. I am having the similar issues with my 91LS4hundred as 'blessed' and 'Vincyray'!! So far I can continue to start the car and it runs awhile then dies--from here it will not fire back up but I cant crank it as long as I want. Some hours later I can restart it and the process begins again>>> In the beginning the CEL codes indicate 24 air intake temp sensor. Ok?? Just today I figure when it dies I check to see if there is spark-- no spark in all wires! but how can I restart it hours later?hmm Check to see if there is fuel while it wont start also..crank crank crank and no fuel at all running through lines- cut off! Normally I will check the CEL codes after it dies but today there is no check engine light or O/D light when I do the diagnosis and when the ignition is in "on" position. hmmmm However I will be able to restart it here in an hour... what the bleep does this indicate is going wrong with my car? Not the ECU is it? What can I do? <_<
  10. Maybe the torque converter going bad??
  11. 1990 LS400. When started drives fine, shifts good with careful attention to ease of acceleration. RPM guage doesnt work (stays below 0- <2000 range when driving). Cannot push accelerator hard or else major shuttering and no acceleration occurs. Recently changed No.2 speed sensor as it was throwing code and showing these symptoms. After replacing the sensor there are no CEL or Flashing O/D light indicators. Still having accelerating problems. Will drive ok UNTIL warmish about 3-5 minutes of driving at slow accelerations.. Then it stops driving "accelerating" and wont accelerate until I STOP the car, Turn it off for 20-25 seconds and restart. Then it operates normal, gets up to speed with out accelerating hard for another 1-5 minutes. I can continue this process to get where I need to go, BUT for how much longer?? Also I know its slipping when I drive because it rapidly shoots my rpms upwards of 3000+ which is relative to what I would consider redline, that again is b/c my rpms are way off! FYI: 207,000 miles, I have had for 4 months constantly fixing something b/c of lack of maintenance from previous owners, The color of the tranny fluid looks like OIL!! At the end of the week I am buying a case of Toyota Type IV fluid to flush and replenish- also cleaning the screen filter. I feel like this could be causing my problems however why would I be able to stop and restart my car and it operates "normally" until it slips again.
  12. How is it that your whole water pump is bad when there is a leak? Wouldnt the seal just be getting old and leaking?
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