BogeyJH

https://www.amazon.com/BG-44K-Fuel-System-Cleaner/dp/B07GT8RN6Z

I purchased a new key shell and a used electronic remote head transmitter (key fob) on ebay for my 2002 LS, I had the key cut locally, copying my existing key. Long story short, I returned the remote because the transponder would not pair with my car using any online instructions or the locksmith's programmer. No good if you can't get past security. Good thing I verified that it could be returned if it didn't work. Before returning it, I noted that the remote electronics unit didn't have the same number imprinted on it as my existing remote (50111). I bought a second key fob on ebay after verifying it had the same remote identification number. To my great relief, I successfully programmed the transponder and remote function (lock, unlock, open trunk) using the following procedures: Transponder Programming You have 35 seconds to complete steps 1-5 and 10 seconds to complete step 6. If not performed quickly enough, the car will not go into programming mode and the key transponder will not pair with your car. Close all doors. Insert an already programmed master key into the ignition. Turn the key from the OFF to On and back OFF FIVE (5) times. Open and close the driver's door SIX (6) times. Remove the key from the ignition. Insert the new key to be programmed into the ignition. Leave it in the OFF position. Wait 1 to 2 minutes. The security light will be blinking. When it stops blinking your key is programmed. To end programming step on the brake one time. If the blinking security light does not go off within 2 minutes, the procedure must be repeated from the beginning. Verify success by starting the engine. ________________________________________ Remote Programming Close and lock all doors. Unlock and open driver's door. Insert key into ignition and remove TWO TIMES. Close and open the driver's door TWO TIMES. Insert key into the ignition and remove ONE TIME. Close and open the driver's door TWO TIMES. Insert key into the ignition. Close the driver's door. Turn ignition ON then OFF ONE TIME. (Do not start engine) This will place the car in ADD mode for your remote. Note: Turning the ignition ON then OFF TWO TIMES will ADD the remote AND will erase all existing remotes. Remove the key from the ignition. The door locks will cycle one time (or two if set to erase existing remotes). On the REMOTE press and hold both the LOCK and UNLOCK button for 2 to 5 seconds and release. Hold the remote higher for better reception. On the REMOTE press and hold the LOCK button for 1 to 3 seconds and release. If the door locks cycle once, the procedure was accepted. If the door locks cycle twice it has failed and the procedure must be repeated from the beginning. To end programming, open and close the driver's door then insert key in ignition and remove it. Verify success by pressing any button on the remote. ________________________________________ I make no claims to be an expert with respect to this process or anything for that matter. I was happy that I was able to get my key / remote to function and pass on what worked for me in case it might help someone in the same situation. These instructions are refined from a source which I found online, but I have since lost the original source info.

I do a lot on my own, and the Lexus forums have been very good to me. Landar and others here have been quite helpful in the past. I used to have a good shade-tree guy before I bought my LS400, but he doesn't know Lexus and wasn't comfortable taking on the work. I would be very interested if somebody knows a good one in Austin for Lexus cars. Lately when I'm in over my head or just don't have the time or proper tools, I take my cars to Dan Mize over at Elite Import Auto Service. He is very good, but I always compare his quotes to the dealer. A couple examples for reference... Lexus of Austin quoted $711 for control arm bushings for the '02 LS430. Elite quoted $380 using OEM parts, but the final bill was $290 + tax., close to 60% less than the dealer. A buddy of mine with an '03 LS430 who does not work on his cars got a quote for 60K service and the cost at LOA and Elite was so close that he went to the dealer and got a free loaner car for a day and a half. BTW, he said that he would take his 10 year old LS over the new RX he drove, hands down.

New to me... 2002 LS430 Ultra Luxury Mystic Gold Metallic with Ecru Interior Excellent condition, 72K miles, 1 owner Meticulously maintained exclusively by Lexus since day one Paid $15,900 from dealer Purchased on 22 December 2012 Searched passively for >6 months, actively for 4 weeks Location: Austin, Texas Located via Craigslist A few very minor paint blemishes, no dings Timing belt and water pump replaced at 62K miles Brand new tires still had the !Removed!

I've been quite busy lately, so I haven't been back here to let you guys know the final fix for the LS400. Back in November 2011, ASI repaired the ECM using low ESR capacitors for all the the original ammonium salt electrolytics. When the ECM was returned for warranty service (November 2012), ASI fixed a problem they found in an area not related to the trouble code 14 (ignition circuit). After re-installing the ECM, I continued to have non-starting issues. All troubleshooting led me right back to the ECM. The bottom line is that the ECM ignition circuit would function normally when disconnected from the load of the igniters, etc., but once it was reconnected, it could not drive the load. This condition was not detectable using the recommended diagnostics from the service manual, which test the ECM without the load of the igniter and incorrectly specified replacement of the igniter #1. Swapping the igniters proved that was an incorrect resolution. The problem was finally identified by using an oscilloscope and connecting a T-pin into the IGT1 signal at igniter #1 to identify the bad signal under load. I returned the ECM to ASI with detailed info and they located an issue in the #1 ignition circuit, repaired it, and sent it back. They paid for shipping to and from since they had not fixed the described issue previously. I re-installed the ECM (again) and the ol' girl cranked right up. Thanks again to you all for your valuable input, my wife is happy to have her car back up and running.

landar,you're a heckuva guy to offer your time and expertise to this forum. Since day 2 I can no longer get the car to start at all, so no video of it running is possible. It seems to catch when cranking (that point where you normally release the key), but will not run. Additional info: When I limped it home on day 1 it ran smoothly at higher RPMs, but died suddenly and often. I'm pretty certain there isn't a fuel problem since when cranking I can smell gas (flooding due to no start). I would think that Is a safe assumption. I had thoughts that maybe it jumped timing, but haven't gone there since it isn't likely. I've also had thoughts that it may be the distributor, but swapping the coils per your suggestion would definitely precede that action since it is much simpler and might eliminate or confirm the coil as the culprit

landar, I really appreciate the input. FYI, the code trips after a verified clearing of the ECM - after resetting the ECM with the E1 / TE1 jumper in place, the check engine light flashes ~4 times per second indicating that it is cleared; remove jumper and turn ignition on and get code 14. I am desperate enough to try swapping the coils at this point even though it isn't logical to me, but I will be the first to admit that I am definitely not an experienced automotive troubleshooter.

Thank you for your input landar. Coil was verified good using 3 tests. Primary coil verification was performed by measuring the resistance between the terminals of the ignition coil connector. Secondary coil verification was performed by measuring the resistance between terminal 1 of the ignition coil connector and the high-tension terminal. Used an igniter bypass test detailed on YouTube - Test 1 and 2 verified the coil independently. Test 3 verified the coil in circuit. I'll consider swapping the coils later on when I get back to the car. The thing that is throwing me is the fact that code 14 is tripped without turning the engine over. Just switching the ignition to ON is all that is necessary for the computer to display the trouble code.

I've been battling an non-starting issue with my 1994 Lexus LS 400 with no success to date. I'm at the end of my rope and considering taking it in to the dealer for service (ugh!), so I'm turning to the forum for suggestions. The issue first presented when my wife was on an errand and called to say the car wouldn't continue to run after starting it and that the check engine light was on. I went to rescue her and was able to get the car to start, but it would only run with higher RPMs. Even then, it wouldn't consistently run no matter what I did. I managed to get the car home, which was not far, but I must have restarted it a dozen times in less than a quarter mile to get there. The next day, it wouldn't even restart. It would catch, indicating the coils were firing, but would die immediately. Using the tutorial from LexLS.com, I read check engine trouble code 14, which indicates a problem with the Ignition No. 1 Signal Circuit (left/driver side). According to the service manual: "No ignition confirmation signal 1 to ECM (Engine Control Module) for 8 - 11 consecutive Ignition 1 signals." Possible causes I checked: Igniter No. 1 - verified good including power source Primary and Secondary Coil No. 1 - verified good including coil wire Crankshaft sensor - verified good Camshaft Sensor No. 1 - verified good Engine Control Module - verified good (rebuilt last year and sent back for warranty service when this problem presented to eliminate ECM as a suspect) I reset the ECM (sometimes referenced as ECU) by pulling the fuse, and verified the code was cleared (check engine light flashes ~4 times per second). All that is required to trip trouble code 14 again is to turn the ignition switch to the ON position without cranking the engine. Any suggestions are welcome.

Thanks! Do you mean to pull forward, in line with the length of the car? Or pull laterally, swiveling the part at the rear of the housing? This is where I was unclear based on other info I could find.

Thank you for the info. Actually, I am talking about the clear corner lights adjacent to the headlights. I know the marker lights are actually the orange (or yellow) one in the bumper, but I was seeing the corner lights referenced as side marker lights elsewhere.

I am having a lot of trouble removing the corner (side marker) lights to replace the bulbs and can't find any useful info on the how this is done. I have put quite a bit of force on it and I'm concerned about breaking the housing. Can someone shed some light on how to do this? A tutorial would be great, but some basic instruction would be appreciated.

I finally got around to fixing the instrument cluster on my '94. When I bought the LS400 a few years ago, only the fuel gauge was exhibiting any symptoms. Toward the end of this past winter, started having the cluster lighting out until the car warmed up for a while. Over the summer, the problem worsened considerably, with the sticking tach and speedo presenting a couple months back. And now with just cool nights, the dark cluster syndrome has returned. Well, I was pleasantly surprised how quickly the repair went. While releasing the connectors from the back of the cluster was a bit tedious, it was not technically difficult. The cluster was out in less than 20 minutes, C142, C147 and C212 were replaced, and the unit re-installed in just 1 1/2 hours. Not a hitch. For the first time since I bought the car, the fuel gauge works. And so far no dark dash. Woo-hoo! Thanks to Wanda Woods, Jim Walker and lexls.com for the great instructions and pix.

Using the code reading tutorial from LexLS.com, I got error code 42 indicating a problem with the #1 speed sensor circuit (backup sensor). The car shifts normally and exhibits no hint of a problem other than the flashing indicator. Each time I drive the car, it takes some time for the O/D OFF indicator to start flashing, which I don't believe is indicative of a reset in the circuit with each drive cycle. Since electronics sometimes glitch and need to be hard rebooted, I decided to pull the 20A EFI fuse to reset the ECU, clearing the stored codes. I then drove for a good distance with no indication of a problem (no flashing indicator). UPDATE: The issue returned after remaining dormant for quite a while. Now pulling the fuse to reset the ECU only resolves the flashing O/D OFF indicator for one run cycle. Once the car is started a 2nd time, the flashing is back. Also, the cruise control will not engage with the fault condition present. I guess I'll have to look into this further. Bogey updated June 20, 2009, 12:35 PM

Unless I'm missing something here... (1) the nozzle tube would have to be a couple feet long; (2) I would have to know the exact location of the rear drains (I don't); and (3) I would need to know a fool-proof method to insert the nozzle tube into the rear drains. Anybody done this? A definitive "how-to" would be great. Just to be clear - I had no problems cleaning the front drains of my sunroof. I have seen many posts for these easily accessible drains. It's the rear drains for which I'm asking guidance. I just don't want to go in without a clear understanding of the physical make-up and damage anything. I would also really like to avoid dropping the headliner for this fix if at all possible. That's why I originally asked if anyone could point me to the exit points of the rear drain tubes. I was thinking I could push some nylon trim line backward through the tube to clear the obstruction. Thanks to all of you for offering up your experiences.

Thanks SK, OK. I have no problem with the front drains, but how do you access the rear drains with the cleaner? Brake cleaner evaporates pretty quickly. Do you pour cleaner in the channel and let it drain back to the rear tubes, or use some sort of long spray tube to reach back to them? I'm a little wary about pouring the solvent in the channel. If gets on the headliner, it could affect it worse than the water.

We had a deluge here in Austin yesterday and the rear of my headliner and the rear floorboards of my 1994 LS400 got wet. It appears that the rear drains are plugged. I would like to fish some heavy trim line backwards through the rear drain tubes to clear them. Can you give me a clue where the drains exit the car at the rear? Soaked in Austin. Bogey

The clamp on the hose that connects to the bottom of the HCV appeared to me to be unserviceable. I've never seen this type of clamp. It included a cotter pin which I could not remove. I ended up cutting the clamp off and put a new worm gear band clamp in its place. There will be a little loss of coolant, but not enough to worry about draining it beforehand. All in all, a pretty straightforward process. Good luck!

Thx wwest, I really appreciate your response. Either way, it appears I need to gain acces to the blend door and servo motor connection. I searched the forum for some info on access to the blend door and found this post from Ralph Newman. This will likely help if I just need to re-attach the cable, but what would be involved if it is necessary to replace a servo motor or the blend door? I'm trying to determine if the cost savings is really worth the trouble since it has been said that this is quite a pain to replace. I didn't find any other posts with details of the process. I am not in any particular hurry to get this repaired since it is approaching summer, but my wife will not be happy if she has no heat come fall. I would like to get as much info as possible before attempting to go into the dash myself. BTW, has anyone paid to have this fixed? What cost might I expect if I take it to a Lexus or Toyota dealer?

I recently replaced the leaking heater control valve (HCV) on my 94 LS 400. I also have a problem with the valve control cable, which doesn't move when the climate control settings are changed. The cable was pretty stiff, so I lubed it and was able to move it in and out. But it doesn't move easliy and only about an inch. I disconnected the control cable and set the HCV to the 2 o'clock and then 6 o'clock position. No heat with either setting. I think the blend damper is functional. With the AC on and the control in AUTO mode, I can hear what is likely the blend damper move and the air flow changes from very cold to only cool when I raise the temperature setting from MAX COLD. At MAX HOT and with the AC off, the air from the vent is outside air temperature. Is this a combination of problems or multiple failures? Any input offered will be greatly appreciated.

Is there anyone out there who knows if the heater control valve is actuated by the same servo as the blend damper or is it a separate motor?

I replaced the heater control valve last night, but the cable that actuates it doesn't move when the temperature control in the cabin is adjusted. See further discussion here.

I had the same cable issue, with the exception that the heater control valve (HCV) was leaking. [see my McGoo pics here.] Last night, I replaced the leaking HCV. I was so sure that the new HCV would solve the no heat issue, but it didn't. Oh well, it leaked and needed to be replaced anyway. BTW, either I'm missing something or the clamp on the hose that connects to the bottom of the HCV is not serviceable. I've never seen this type of clamp. It included a cotter pin which I could not remove. I ended up cutting it off and put a new worm gear band clamp in its place. Now I need to address the cable, which doesn't move. It was pretty stiff and I lubed it and was able to move the cable in and out, but it doesn't move easliy. The blend damper is functional. With the AC on and the control in "AUTO" mode, I can hear it move and the air flow changes from frosty to only cool. At full HOT, the air from the vent is outside air temperature. Is the HCV controlled by the same servo as the blend damper or is it a separate motor?

I agree that the 90K interval is conservative. The records on my new-to-me 94 LS400 show the timing belt service at 125K. I think the previous owner was pushing it a bit, but no harm no foul. He took a chance I probably wouldn't take. However, I tend to agree that 100K is pretty safe. Hey Aggie, Just curious, did he indicate the parts and labor costs separately? Although I'm far from needing to do this service as it has been only ~9K since it was done, I have a good side mechanic here in the Austin area who is very reasonable. I would just like to get a feel for the general parts/labor quotient.

I got the OEM part number for the heater control valve (8724050010) from the local Lexus dealer and called a local Toyota dealer for a cross-referenced part number. He said no-go on the cross. It's a Lexus only part number. From a dealer online, the OEM part will run $66.86 vs. the local parts counter price of $85.41. I figure I'll save a few bucks even with the shipping cost, and no sales tax to boot. Thanks for the info!