Gaugster

I think the dealer is BS'ing you. The IS250 has direct injection so the throttle body, intake manifold and the back side of the intake valve are all dry. No fuel/carbon should ever reach these areas. There is some EGR stuff but only mis-fires or back-fires would place carbon on these components and your car seems to be running fine.

Don't give the extra money to the dealer. If you are still concerned then you could run a fuel injector clreaner through a tank full of gas and it would only cost you like 5 dollars.

so the solution it to have the primary cats still intact, and the o2 senser does it have to stay or if removed more headaches?

Yes, you must keep the O2 sensor(s).

Cool ride - How do you like the Greddy SP2 exhaust? Is that and axle back or did it come with a mid-pipe of some sort?

Yup, the CEL will turn on if you remove the primary CATs. Maybe high-flow aftermarkets would help but I don't know for sure.

I heard a rumor about people making some sort of electronic simulator to trick the car into thinking that the CATs are still installed.

However this is very illegal and I would not know anything about perpetrating such violent and hatful acts against our dear Mother Earth. :D

Regards,

Hi guys, I need a shop manual for the IS250 or the 4GR-FSE engine, we are fitting a VORTECH s/c to the motor. Need it rather urgent please.

You are gonna need more then the shop manuals but good luck.

http://techinfo.lexus.com/

Yes, I am refering to the cross hatching (45° or 60°???) performed during cylinder honing. I do believe that they wear away completely and have seen it with my own eyes on many types of engines.

Attached is a picture that I 'snarfed' from CL. Special thanks to CL user Carchitect!!! It is a IS350 engine with unknown milage. I don't see any honing marks but as you stated, it is possible that they weren't included in the first place.

Judge for yourself.

3 - At some point in time (Around 10k from my experience) the cylinders and piston rings are finally polished together so that all the original honing marks are gone. The same would be true for other bearing surfaces in the engine as well as the complete drivetrain - trans, dif', etc.... This represents the full potential of the vehicle.

IMHO :D

My Toyota truck at 178K miles still showed the honing marks (crosshatch) very plainly. I always thought the typical 45 degree crosshatching was to help hold oil in the cylinder walls..... but I am far from an expert engine builder!! I'd be very blown away to see any typical production engine if the orginal factory hone marks in the cylinders are gone (worn away under normal operation) on a new engine with only 10K miles!!!!!!!! :o

Yeah, I am no expert either but I always assumed that the honing marked had to go. It is all part of the rings seating from what I know. Stupid question - but were you looking at the top/bottom of the cylinder where the rings wouldn't actually be making contact or was your observation from the center part of the cylinder?

The information is on another forum. Again the WOT shiftpoints change for some reason which hurts the ET. Normal mode allows for a few 100 rpm higher shift point when going through the gears. I can't image why they would do this other then it being some soft of software mistake.

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread...p;highlight=ECT

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showpost.p...mp;postcount=38

Regards,

My CD changer on my 2006 IS350 (w/ Nav Sys) jammed. It won't eject or load CDs. How do I get off the stereo faceplate and get to the changer? I'm hoping this is something I can do myself.

Thanks,

David

If it became jammed with store bought CD's then take it in for a warrenty fix. It is not easy to gain access to the CD changer and that still might not solve your problems in the long run. You have to take the whole center stack out and remove the changer from the backside. This means taking our the whole A/C, Radio & Nav part if equipment. It is not very easy.

If it became jammed with a burned disc or some other "non-standard" media then........

I would try to reset the CD changer in hopes that it will spit out the CD. I think this can be done by disconnecting the vehicles battery and then reconnecting it after a few minutes. Maybe there is some technic in the owners manual.

I have also heard of people getting a jammed CD out by inserting another one into the changer. It must be somthing to do with moving the CD's around or somthing.

Good luck

It's better to keep it in the Normal mode for pure straight line acceleration. The best 1/4 mile times are alway done in normal mode. I guess the shifting RPM points change at WOT which actually hurts the overall ET.

Obviously, the ECT mode was intended for going through the twisties and what not.

Regards,

The bump is due to the AWD system. There is a front drive shaft that powers the front wheels and the body was shaped to make room for the extra stuff. That alone would not make it hot but it is also very close to the exhaust/catalytic converter. The cat' could be the source of the heat but I myself have not noticed it being hot. But I don't wear shorts much either.

Regards,

PS welcom to the club.

I guess there are a few "break in" intervals that should be noted.

1 - Technically, the motors are run at the factory for an initial start up and probably the most important break in period. When the engine is new it can make a lot of internal heat (localized heating) as the parts are brand new and have not "polished" themselves together. This period is very important for the longevity of the engine and is therefore performed before the vehicle is sold. Duration = ???

2 - The break in period as described in the owners manual. A period in which the engine is supposed to be heat-cycled by normal used. This means to avoid long cruises at the same RPM as well as avoiding heavy loading of the engine. Again to limit the internal heating. At this time the cylinders still have honing marks and the piston rings are being seated as the wear. Duration ~ 500 miles (Whatever the manual says.)

3 - At some point in time (Around 10k from my experience) the cylinders and piston rings are finally polished together so that all the original honing marks are gone. The same would be true for other bearing surfaces in the engine as well as the complete drivetrain - trans, dif', etc.... This represents the full potential of the vehicle.

IMHO :D

would u describe that feeling as your car, miraculously after doing nothng but driving it, becoming a "beast"? :D

My answer to your question in in post # 9.

Yea. I think if u use regular and just put som STP octane booster in it is cheaper but prob not as good quality.

Do what you like but the octane boosters are cool 'cause they make your plugs pretty colors.

It must mean that after that many miles he actually floored it because driving a car does not make it faster.

I think the OP meant that his engine/drivetrain had broken-in and was now running hard, loose and clean. Just like that song from Metallica. :P

I would probably describe that feeling as a bit more pep then before but it could just be my imagination.

I think that is normal. I know that it won't shift into 6th even at high speeds until the car's engine temperature is above a certain level. But again, that is normal for these cars.

Hey Fellas,

I noticed when I'm about to stop or accelerate the engine hesitates or (hiccups). What could be the problem? Should I bring it to the Lexus dealer since I'm still under warranty? I own a 2006 is250 awd.

Thanks Guys

It might be the transmission changing gears??? If it is engine related then have it checked out for sure because it does not sound normal to me.

Regards,

If it's covered, Then that is good news. Then you can laugh at the sticker shock of the replacement nav.

I read somewhere that tinted windows sometimes mess up the GPS signals. Is your IS tinted?

Hi, my windows are very much tinted. But, i read it somewhere as long as its not metallic it should be fine. Just curious, where is the GPS receiver installed? Because I do see a black adapter before the rear mirror.

Many Thanks

The small black thing by the rear view mirror is the auto rain sensor and not the GPS antenna. Obviously on the 2007 and beyond, the GPS antenna is integrated into the shark fin on the roof line. I would think that the 2006 antenna would be mounted in the dash or perhaps somewhere on the rear window.

Man, "Ri*BLEEP*hen7" you just must love all the abuse you bring onto yourself. No, your car in not a Beast nor is it a Ton faster but that is okay cause niether is mine.

You should try sending a selection of the contacts only if you are trying to send the entire phonebook or vice versa.

I guess due to dissimilar bluetooth standards, I was only able to transfer the entire phonebook and not selected entries only. Perhaps yours is the other way around?

On my verizon phone i had to go to SEND NAME CARD. when you select that it transfers all of your contacts in a matter of seconds.

Dido on that. I have to put the car into transfer mode but also tell the phone to transfer the data as a second step. I have an LG phone with Verizon. Sometimes I have to do it more than once as it will fail if other BT devices are interfering.

Look here to confirm that your phone model is compatible.

http://www.lexus.com/models/IS/accessories/bluetooth.html

Regards,

If you get a fully loaded IS250 with AWD, NAV, PCS, ML etc... it is around 46k - 48k MSRP from what I remember. It depends on what types of options the IS and GS have. A base GS price might overlap with a loaded ISx50

Regards,

Build it on lexus.com

IS250 AWD with highest available package is $39,585 including destination. A GS350 AWD with the same equipment is $52,710 including destination, making the difference $13,125.

Even a base GS350 RWD with no option packages is $45,375 still $6,000 more than a loaded IS250 AWD.

I am not trying to take anything away from the GS but.... A fully loaded IS will be in the 46k - 48k. The available packages are NOT fully loaded. PCS as well as other $$$ features are not included. The lowest price GS without the same equipment as the IS is around 45k.

Regards,

Hello All,

I'm thinking about buying a 2006 IS 250 AWD. Actually going to the dealership for a mechanical check-up tomorrow. I live in Utah so AWD is definitely a plus. So I was just wondering, is there anything I should watch out for? My last car was maxima and I have a feeling this could be somewhat of a change for me. There's no NAV, but I'm pretty sure I can live with that. I'm a little hesitant about buying it used, but then again, it's Toyota, right? This would be my first Lexus, and I don't really know what to expect. It was a toss up between 325ix and IS 250, and to tell you the truth. I liked the looks and interior of the IS much better. What are the good and the bad about this car? Has anybody had any major problems/difficulties with 06-07 models? I'd appreciate any feedback you may have.

Thanks a bunch,

L.

I would just do the basics. Also look very good at the inside tread of the front/rear tires. Some of these cars with the Dunlop’s wear out tires very quickly, aka 15k I have read. Have the dealer look up any of the repairs that have been made as part of TSB (Technical Service Bulletins) etc... Look for any paint repairs as well.

The back seat in the IS is a joke, be warned.

As far as putting infant carrier in the back (you have to mount them facing backwards) it means the person in the front has to either have their seat only 3/4 of the way back and/or have it sitting more straight up.

The problem isn't as bad for a car seat mounted rear facing. And once they reach a year and can ride forward, it is even less of a problem.

It's kind of funny...I thought I was doing the responsible family thing by purchasing a four door. It didn't quite turn out the way I imagined it! Oh well, I still enjoy the vehicle immensely.

I have a rear facing baby seat mounted in the middle of the rear seat. This allows for more options for front seat positions. It is also a better location IMHO. I am only 5'10" and my wife is around 5' so we don't have the seats way back however.

Wizkid - Congrats on the kid in the oven!!!!!

Regards,

I'm confused as to how an IS250 could be similar in price to your GS350. Your GS should be close to $50,000, a loaded IS250 should be $10-11,000 cheaper. The ES fully loaded would be close, $45k, as would an IS350, but not an IS250.

My suggestion if the car is just an occasional driver...get a lower model IS...maybe without nav.

If you get a fully loaded IS250 with AWD, NAV, PCS, ML etc... it is around 46k - 48k MSRP from what I remember. It depends on what types of options the IS and GS have. A base GS price might overlap with a loaded ISx50

Regards,

You have to have a scan tool that is "CAN-BUS" capable. Also, some scan tools are upgradable. I have an innova 3130 OBDII reader that works for these newer systems. I had an older version but had to upgrade as it was not able to read the CAN bus.

I like this unit but it is not good for data logging. It can do it but it is kind of cumbersome.

Regards,