tds

The A/C light will blink when it senses that the compressor has locked up. In your case when you turn it off and then on it may temporarily run again...but the bad news is that you will need another compressor :cries: . Don't delay in getting this done because a compressor that is locking will generate debris and spread it through your system.

I just fixed this on my 91LS400. It is called a Vacuum Modulator Valve and is part # 25870-50010 (part is around $150.00 CDN)

KevinK, when this resonant vibration occurred, I was able to gently punch (not too hard!!!) the headliner just above my head. The punch would disrupt the vibration cadence (i.e. pattern) and this is how I confirmed that the noise was coming from the headliner.

Well I had this idle vibration noise problem for 4 years and I finally got it fixed. It would happen when the RX was in gear with the brake on around 750 to 755 rpm. I got so I could actually cause this vibration to happen by putting the parking brake on, put the RX into Drive, one foot on the brake and with the other foot on the gas and very gently adjust the rpm. The problem turned out to be a loose wire or connector in the headliner right above the drivers head. At a certain frequency this would resonate and would sound like a drum. After I was able to demonstrate this resonant vibration to the dealer he removed the headliner and attached/glued the offending wire/connector back in place. The noise is now gone. :D

I had a noise like that with my 2001 RX300 and it turned out to be the bushing at the bottom of the steering column needing lubrication....may yours has the same problem. I also had a ticking noise coming from the dash. After removing the dash and replacing the dash clips (didn't fix it) they finally removed the cowling at the bottom of the windshield (on the outside) and added an insulation kit. This fixed the problem. It's taken about 4 years now, but think I finally have all the squeaks and rattles and groans out of my RX300 ;)

I had exactly the same problem with my 2001 Rx300. I would arrive home from work, lock the RX, put the keys in my pocket and go into the house. After dinner I would sit down on the couch, with the keys in my pocket. As I sat down, the unlock button would somehow get pressed and held while inside my pocket. When the unlock button is pressed and held, in additon to unlocking the doors it will roll down the windows and open the sunroof. Now this can become a problem if your RX is parked outside and it starts to rain, to say nothing car theft or vandalism (with the windows all the way down). I complained to Lexus :chairshot: and ended up having this funtion disabled on the computer. Lexus needs to add on on/off slide switch to the electronic key so that you can disable all of this if you want to.

Check that your EGR valve is not coming on when the engine is cold.

Try oven cleaner

The bushing at the bottom of the steering wheel needs to be lubricated. I had this lubed on my 2001 Rx300 and the noise has not come back.

I suggest you do the following: 1. Try a second shop...the first one may have messed up the test or been fishing for business. 2. Make sure you take your car for a drive (60 mph for 10 minutes) before you drop it off for the emissions test...You've got to have your engine warmed up properly. 3. Use Sunoco 94 Octane (a full tank) before and during the test. It is also possible that you have a bad oxygen sensor, or something else, but I would try 1, 2 and 3 first.

My RX300 had tire squeal so I checked the tire pressure. Both front tires were 24psi and both backs were 30 psi (I have no idea how this happened). Once I pumped up the front tires to 30 psi, all the tire squeal is gone.

SW03ES: Sorry it took so long to reply to your post, but it has been quite a while since they kept my RX300 overnight (actually 3 days while they remove the resonant vibration in the headliner, fix the dashboard squeak (twice now) and remove the 'chirp' noise from the rear seats). <_< Anyway, Lexus gave me a loaner 2004 ES300 (I have it in my garage at the moment). Now I have been testing this car for torque steer for the last 2 days. I don't know why yours does not have any torque steer, but on this one, at full power and full acceleration (from a stop), I frequently have to wrestle with the steering wheel to keep it going in a straight line. Lexus may have done an excellent job with minimizing any torque steer inherent in the drive train, but they cannot factor in pavement and road variations. Under full power if one wheel gets less traction (say a bit of gravel on one side of the road, a touch of oil on the other side, or a rut in the road) then one side of the front wheel drive will pull more than the other and you have...torque steer. The only way to remove this is to separate the drive wheels from the steering wheels (i.e. rear wheel drive). Under low and moderate acceleration I can detect no torque steer, but under full acceleration it is definitely there. Incidently, I am very impressed with the power and acceleration of this ES300.

There are many possible problems that can cause the ABS light to come on. For example the TPS (Throttle positioning sensor) or ABS computer can also be defective. You should read the codes yourself or get Lexus to read them for you and tell you where the problem is.

One more thing...I had a car years ago that had this backfire and it turned out to be the iginition cables.

Other things you can check are your timing (and engine computer) and the igintion coil. It sounds like all of the gas is not burning in the engine.

I had this conversion done on my 91 LS400 and the A/C works very well. The fittings are a different size so that after the conversion you cannot charge with R12. Note that R134 molecules have a much smaller size than R12. This means that if there are any tiny holes that R12 cannot fit through, R134 may be able to leak through there. I suggest you pay the extra $100 and have them add a can of stop leak. This stuff will seal any of the very tiny holes that may cause the R134 to leak out. I suggest you should go fit it :)

Look in the yellow pages for an auto electric repair shop (i.e. they specialize only on auto electric). Get a price for a rebuild.

I have just discovered a rust hole on my 91 LS400 :( and I thought I should let everyone know. This rust hole was caused by the dogleg at the front of the rear wheel. (see photo) Behind the piece of trim on the dogleg (which is just behind the rear door) is an enclosed cavity that is filled with sound deadening material. If any moisture gets into this area then the sound deadening material holds it against the sheet metal and in a short time you have a rust hole. The only solution I know of is to drill a hole into this cavity and flood it with rust check or crown check compound (i.e. rust protection spray...preferably before the rust starts). Now, I live north of Toronto in Canada and they use a lot of road salt in the winter up here, so I expect any cars of 1991 vintage will already have the same rust problem as mine, or soon will. If you live in an area (e.g. Arizona) where you are not exposed to road salt, then you will not have a problem.

Use 94 Octane gas. The engine controls will automatically advance your timing to suit the octane. You'll get a bit more horsepower and a bit better mileage and it will cost you a bit more.

You should take your Lexus in for a safety inspection. From what you are telling me, I would not be comfortable driving it until I had a mechanic look at it. Also, I would get a 4 wheel alignment done too.

I would check out the JD Power and Associates 2004 Vehicle Dependability Study (VDS) at http://www.jdpa.com/pdf/2004055.pdf Lexus has 162 problems per 100 vehicles. Volkswagen has 386 problems per 100 vehicles. If you buy the Tourag you will spend a lot more of your Saturdays not driving it and waiting to get it fixed.

Not only do you get better fuel economy but you get more horsepower as well. I use Sunoco 94 all the time in my 2001 RX300. Here is the reply I received from Lexus re Octane and the RX300. I interpret this response to mean I should be able to get an additional approx 10 hp by using 94 Octane gasoline. Here is the response: There is more than one "octane rating". Research Octane Number (RON) is a laboratory rating that manufacturers generally use. Motor Octane Number (MON) is another laboratory method of measurement. Anti Knock Index (AKI) is the number quoted at gas stations. It is an average of these two: RON + MON / 2 87AKI is equal to 91RON. The engine in the RX300 produces 220 hp on this "regular" fuel. If premium fuel is used (over 87AKI or 91RON), a slight improvement in power output is likely. The ignition system used on the RX300 continually monitors engine knock (detonation), and tailors spark advance to operate at where its peak performance can be obtained. Hence, the better the fuel, the better the potential performance (within limits, of course).

The sharp tic is caused by the trim pieces around the inside of the sunroof flexing. This is very common on all RX300 (including mine). The dealer should be able to insulate the trim pieces to reduce / eliminate this noise.

The low tech way is to tie one end of a cord to the door and the other end to somewhere inside on the body. Then adjust the length of the cord to suit the height you want it to open at. A quick connect at one end would allow you to have the door open fully when outdoors with a minimum of effort.

It sounds to me like your timing is retarded. You may have blown the computer or one of the sensors. If the ignition timing on a car is retarded, then less power is made because the air/fuel mixture doesn't completely combust during the compression/combustion cycle. The flame front completely combusts after the piston has started its power stroke. This results in a loss of power. The unburned gasoline then burns in your exhaust manifold and catalytic converter, heating them up (even to a bright red color). I suggest you check your timing with a timing light to see if this is the problem. Also you can connect a vacuum gage to your intake manifold with a T fitting and monitor the vacuum at idle. Normal is around 18-22 inches of mercury. If the timing is retarded, you will get a low, steady reading on the gage (i.e. around 14 - 16 inches of mercury.