termin8or

It sounds like the MAF. $900 fromLexus. $52 at Murrays. Don't bother trying to clean. It won't work

I got 125,000 out of a set of Michelins. Very good tire

I also have wear on the inside of my fronts. Tire America did an alignment and gave me a printout that showed the before and after. If you ask me they didn't do much but adjust some toe in and that wasn't a problem. They said everything was, in fact, pretty good. That the areas out of spec were very small. Also said that there was no adjustment on the rear

Same hear. MAF cleaner killed mine. Don't try it. Murray auto had a rebuilt "Cardone" for $55. There the only one that I found under $150. Wow great deal. Dealer wanted $910, not including the gasket. This is a no brainer. Don't waste your time like me. Murray's is the BEST deal by far. This is a no brainer descision

I would go to a junk yard and cut off and re-soder the wires to your car. I just saw one of those connectors at a local IL junk yard.

Same problem here. I checked the main Ox sensors and the heating elements seem to be OK. I have changed plugs and fuel filter, no luck yet. I plan on wires and caps & rotors next. (Ifigure bit probably needs it anyway. Then, I guess I will pull the injectors for cleaning. Tried injector cleaner w/o sucess.

I'm not completely certain but I think the R12 & R134A fittings are not the same size. Also, I saw an R134A retrofit kit at Walmart for cheap. Just fittings I guess. However, I know you ban't mix the 12 with the 134A so thats a problem.

Are you certain that it's the TPS. I have same code and mine first coded out as the Ox sensor ( I think code 23 or 24). I then tried cleaning the MAF, thinking that it couldn't hurt but after re-assembly my car now has flat spots where the car just studders. Now it's the code 31 which is VAC or MAF. TRAC light and Check Engine stay on. I am getting a rebuilt MAF from Murrays Auto but I'ts very possible that the car also got other issues. UPDATE: I replaced the MAF with one from Murray's and got rid of the studder. Still coding though. I think you may be on to something with the TPS for the TRAC. When I take off the TRAC my car seems to run stronger.

How much for the MAF or VAC?

I had a KIA where the trans downshifted into 2nd gear and stayed there. That was a default when the computer doesn't detect what it thinks it should be seeing from a sensor. In the case of my KIA the shop replaced what was called the turbo speed sensor on the trans. There was an input and an output sensor. Not certain if this helps but I thought that I would offer it up.

$45 for those cheesy trunk shock absorbers seems like a lot to me. I think I'll just search the junk yark for a generic part for about $1 ea

Never mind. On second thought the EGR won't have anything to do with an increase in crank case pressure.

This topic kind of links into one of my posts regarding engines from Japan. They are pretty cheap and are about $875 plus $125 for delivery. hats the 4.0. I was wondering the same thing about dropping in a low milage 98-2000 300HP engine. but the 4.3 or 4.6 would be even better. I wonder if the blocks are the same?

I'm not so certain that the trans flush is the answer for this problem. I just got my car returned to me after having the rear main seal replaced and the front trans seal replaced. In due course the trans fluid and filter were changed. Last night the check engine light and the TRAC light came on. I'm certain that the mechanic probably got his right foot into the throttle, to check the seal under pressure, before I picked the car up. My car is a 93 with OBDI so it would be nice to know the manual way of checking the trouble codes.

OK then. How about a good source for some of these low mileage (50-60K) replacement engines. Also, how about swapping the 1998 SC engine thats 50 HP more into older SC's?

No front seal leak. PVC was replaced a month ago, before this leak started. Do you know anything about that EGR vacuum modulato?

My fear is that there is excessive blow-by and that's causing an increase in the crank pressure thus blowing the seal. The seal worked fine for 200 miles then started a drip again. Mechanic said that crank surface is smooth. I wonder if there is an upgraded seal for the 4.0. No the bottom end has not been balanced. I have known the mechanic for a while so I don't think he would lie to me.

So, has anyone gotten one of those low millage replacement engines from Japan? I was quoted $875 delivered for a 4.0 V8. How did it work out?

I have a persistent rear main seal leak. My mechanic is stumped. The trans was dropped and seals (trans & main were both changed.) The leak is back after just 500 miles. The crank area were the seal sits seams pretty smooth and the bearings seam tight. I thought that it could be the PVC not working but that has been recently changed. HELP. It's up in the air again waiting for yet another new part and I am starting to get the feeling that my mechanic is loosing the battle. Am I missing something here?

No, filter is dry. yes, I lube the gasket and also prefill the filter before installing.

I was also thinking that the trans seal(s) should be changed now and also its a good time perhaps, to change the trans filter and drive shat universal knuckle. I tried the Bars "Main Seal Conditioner" but it didn't work. Thanks for you input

just got the car 3K ago. I changed the oil with dino oil. I got under there and it's absolutely not coming from the oil plug. I think I will need to get the car in the air to tell for certain. I am seeing drips where the trans mounts...bad. I also put in some Bars "Main Seal Conditioner", no luck.

Well I got under the car today and it looks to me to be the main seal. Its dripping oil between were the trans bolts up to the bellhousing. bummer. I guess Ill try some seal condioner and see if that helps.

Three of the problems you list are unrelated to why you originally brought the car in. Have you noticed any leaks on the ground? I'm not going to tell you what to do but if the trans was leaking a little I would just get under the car an tighten up the pan bolts. The pump will eventually short out the altenator if you let it go. Yah, it's a b_tch but you should probably either have it done by a regular non-Lexus mechanic or do it yourself. If the shock isn't clunking you could probably let that go. The radiator leaking again, is not related to an overheat condition. I would find someone else to look at the car. You should have three sets of puddles onthe ground. Two near the front and one in the middle of the car. All of the things you list are doable yourself and you can save a lot of money.

I bought this car about 2 months ago. It has a clean carfax and was/is a clean gold edition and was owned by a doctor in Chicago. I knew it had a PS leak (fixable, no biggie). I drove it for about 1K before changing the oil. I didn't notice any oil leaks on the driveway during that first 1000 miles. I changed the oil myself and I'm usually pretty through. I had ask the guy about oil leaks and he only mentioned a PS leak. He seemed honest and I have no reason to believe that a Dr would lie. who knows though. Anyway. I had an Impala SS that had an intake manafold that was loose and would leak oil down the back of the block during hard acceleration. It took a rounds of tightening but the leak finally stopped after using locktight. I wonder if its the same thing? Perhaps it will just be a loose oil drain plug. I'll keep my fingers crossed.