toytrain

Throw my vote in for the Michelin AS Pilot Sports ZPs-- they changed everything!

Hello,

The RH quarter window on my 2003 SC won't operate up or down when opening/closing top.

LH window OK. I checked fuse #35 per manual and its OK ( seems it would be if other side works!).

I'm hoping something simple is wrong.

Any history or ideas with this problem?

Jim

After 46,000 miles and two sets of Bridgestone Potenzas, and in need of a new set of tires, I recently purchased a set of the Michelin Pilot Sport AS Plus ZPs for my 2003 SC430. I have to say the difference is night and day - I'm amazed at what I've been missing out on. The handling is tighter, ride smoother, and just a whole lot more fun - feels like a sports car, finally. Additionally, rated wear is 40,000 vs 20,000 for the Potenzas - that makes them half as expensive too!

Downside? Maybe two - I think the road noise level a little higher (my wife disputes this), and maintenance/fuel costs will go up because I joy ride everywhere now - I just love these tires!

Hello,

Just today I finally broke down and got Michelin Pilot Sport AS Plus ZPs to replace my Bridgestone Potenzas - the result is a very marked improvement in ride and handling. I should have done this long ago. We use our SC for "sporting" around - not commuting - so ride and performance were important qualities.

As to commuting - during the research I did do before getting my Michelins - I kept coming across a lot of praise for Continetal Extreme Contact DWS tires. They are about $120 less than my Michelins ($160 vs $280). I saw them today in the store and they looked very conventional. Maybe next I'll give them a try. Might recommend that you go to http://www.tirerack.com/survey/SurveyCommentsMMY.jsp?autoMake=Lexus&autoModel=SC430&autoYear=2004&commentStatus=P&additionalComments=Y&index=0 and there The Tire Rack lists 108 the buyer reviews of various tires for the SC430. Take a look - I found it most helpful!

I see lots of discussions about getting rid of RFT tires - listen to my story ----

Like most everyone I had had it with the ride, handling, and low mileage wear of my Bridgestone RFTs. Time for new tires and I was convinced to get "regular" tires and carry the old Green Slime tire repair -- already carried a compressor so no big deal. Well, when the time came for new tires I broke down and got another set of Bridgestones - couldn't pass up the Lexus 4 for the price of 3 sale - thought maybe next time I'll get the "real tires".

Jump ahead 3 months - wife and I go to a remote Indian Casino in NorCal, I do mean remote. We leave for home about midnight Sunday - a 1.5 hour drive, we love taking the backroads as no traffic. Flying down some country road at about 50 I hit a large pothole - I mean I REALLY COLLIDED WITH/HIT A LARGE POTHOLE - more like a crater. It stopped my vehicle in its tracks - every alarm on the dash was sounding/blinking. We are in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by flat fields of alfalfa and sun flowers with no lights or buildings anywhere. A quick walk around the car and I see that a 3 inch piece of the right front tire has been blown out right at the rim - it's just hanging there flapping in the breeze. My wife is panicky - we didn't bring a cell phone and no one is likely to pass by for the next 8 hours or so.

So what to do? Well, I got back in the car, calmed my wife as best I could, and drove home at 35 mph - it took more than 2.5 hours and I had to stay off the interstate - but we did it. Could hardly tell the tire was flat and torn. Next day I drove to the dealer where he installed a new tire free under their "road hazard" warranty. Of course I now have to deal with a slightly bent rim from hitting the pothole so hard.

Bottom line: I've rethought my plans for tires - don't get non-RFTs unless you get the kit to carry a spare - flat tire repair kits aint enough in my book. I've decide to keep RFTs but to switch over to Michelin Pilot Sport AS Plus ZP - getting alot of good press from what I read.

The scenario that played out for me never crossed my imagination. I pass this on as Food for thought!!!!

P.S. No, I'm not a Lexus dealer or employee.

Passenger window on my 2003 SC430 goes up and down as it should when opening/closing the top but won't raise or lower using control on either door. Driver window OK. I've checked fuses 35, 41 and 42 - all OK. Motor seems to work OK as window does raise/lower. Did I miss any other fuses? Any ideas?

Thanks - that's a pretty good description. I bought a OBD II so am sure which sensor is trouble. Also have read article on jumping the plug pins. Now all I have to do is get my fat bod under the car (which I had been hoping to avoid doing). You've been a lot of help.

Hello,

Thanks for your reply on my question. However, nowhere can I find location of Bank 2 sensor 1 in the engine compartment. I've looked and looked but no joy. I've got a 2003 but engine very clean. I've got the feeling it is under a heat shield or something. Could relly use a diagram/phot!

Any hints?

Today warning lights VSC, VSC OFF, and Engine (check) light came on and won't go off. Car seems to run fine. Turning on/off VSC has no effect. Anyone had this before? Tried searching forum for VSC but 3 letters won't work in search.

It must probably be an electrical problem. Read somewhere where gas cap could trip.

Any help appreciated.

Eureka - I located a source for TRD wheels for my 2003 SC430. He has 3 in stock and sells them as singles for $360 each with all the hardware and free shipping in the lower 48.

These wheels are almost impossible to find in a set, let alone singles. Check it out at

http://www.lexpartsworld.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=788

Business located in Roseville, CA

3 months ago I got a hairline crack in one of my 2003 SC430 TRD wheels - causing slow leak. A tire dealer chain (Les Schwab) sent it out and had it welded ($175). Several days ago it started leaking again so went to Lexus dealer where I was informed TRD had gone out of business and no replacement tires available. Was also told welding never works as a permanent cure and I was lucky to get 3 months out of it! Yes I have RFTs.

It seems TRD (Toyota Racing Development) was an independent company and Lexus supplier. These wheels were a $3000 upgrade on the original purchase - which wasn't made by me! Bottom line for me though is that I have to buy 4 new wheels if I can't find one of these wheels on my own - tried eBay and craigslist, no joy!

Anyone know a source or got any advice!

Try Mr. Lou's Stuff at http://www.autopartsbylou.com/auto-parts-by-lou-about-us.php

Cost about $50 w/shipping

Got mine for my SC430 and they were so easy and cheap I replaced the hood struts on my LS

Update -

Well, the heat control valve is OK. Can be moved by hand and does control heat in cooling and heating modes. Problem is wire that moves the valve lever apparently isn't functioning, which is a major deal. I can push/pull it by hand but it won't move on its own when temp control is changed.

I assume now that servo probably is OK, but that motor driving wire is "dislocated" from wire and that is the thumping I'm hearing - motor spinning around with no resistence. Problem is getting to the motor/servo which is not so easily done for the common car owner with no special tools.

Anyone got any advise?

TA in KC -- after posting I found the 2000 LS400 service manual source someone posted here and down loaded. A quick perusal and I located the section on the heater control valve service/testing. A quick check of mine shows that it is stuck in one position and doesn't move at all with various temp settings. Looks like that is the place to go to get my heat back. Thanks

1990LS400 -- thanks for the info. If heater control valve doesn't stop thumping, I think I'll locate the servos and and try disconnecting them one at a time to see if I can locate a bad apple.

Jim

1994 LS400 - original owner - 220,000 miles

Six months ago heater stopped working, A/C cooling OK. Heating just blows cold air. About a month ago A/C started making quite loud thumping noise when temp set below about 72. Thumping about twice per second. Threshold for thumping lowers (below 72) as time goes by until only thumps at "Max Cold" - still no heat.

I could find nothing similar in Forum. Is it a damper motor?

Any ideas?

After rereading my reply, let me add -- it never lifts the lid, I have to do that by hand. It only rises about 1/2 inch by itself. Is it supposed to lift the the lid? How far?

Thanks for the comeback ---- if I just use interior driver release button or key, it won't open at all. If I push down firmly on lid, it will usually release after I again use key or interior button. Either way it never "springs" open and rises on its own.

I've started pushing down firmly after closing and it will work later as long as not much time has elapsed.

I know its a small thing but it bugs me.

I'll try a little grease as you mentioned.

About 7 years ago the CD player in the trunk of my '94 LS stopped playing and won't eject the CD cartridge. Not too much worried about it playing again but would like to get my favorite CDs out. Anyone know the secret without destroying everything?

Got a used '03 SC430 and recently replaced non-functioning trunk struts with eBay specials. They hold the trunk up but I still have problems opening it. It's necessary to press down on lid firmly to get it to "pop" open -- only about 1/2 inch - then I can lift trunk up, where it stays.

Is the trunk suppose to pop open and lift on its own? - I saw an older SC video where it did just that!

Could it be just a bad release mechanism? Or are the non-OEM struts too weak?

Hello,

Yes I see that now - sorry -- chalk it up operator error - didn't realize I was on the UK club site and thought it failed to post so redid on US site. Can't find a way to cancel post after its been listed!

Got my answer on question - waiting for 120A fuse to arrive from dealer back order.

JIm

I have an extraordinary problem -- about 3 weeks ago the heater stopped working. The '94 LS400 sat in the garage til yesterday when I tried to start it but battery dead. I charged the battery for about 4 hours and sure enough the engine started fine! Problem - no other electrical works --- this includes lights, dash, windows, even transmission won't go out of park!!!

Did I blow a main fuse or what? Is there a breaker some where for all the "auxiliaries"?

All hints appreciated.

Jim

My '94 LS has passed 200k miles and the suspension is just about gone - its the old strut/coil system (not air). It bottoms out on big bumps and sways/leans alot when cornering. Add'lly there is frequent clicking and clunking sounds. Just a real feeling of being loose.

Of course we love our old car and its still a beautiful machine after all these years. We want to keep it going for a few more years. Just about everything else has been replaced/fixed over time including all the usual malfunctions --dash lights, ps steering pump leak wiping out the alternator, steering rack leak/replace, water pump, crankshaft sensor failure, brake pressure activating reverse light on dash (easy fix thanks to advise on LOA), and many other little anomalies. Incidently, the replacement rack is looser than the original and I wouldn't recommend replace on this unless absolutely necessary!

But like I said we really want to keep this thing going but I do miss how it used to drive/ride/handle. I know though that it never will really be the same.

My question is what all should I be looking to replace in the suspension? I figure all 4 coils and struts, strut rod bushings, spring upper and lower seats, and bumpers.

Would appreciate any advise and recommendations.

However, I also found a green wire in the same bundle that appears to have been cut. I did a temp splice but could notice no effect on any system or equipment. I kind of assumed this was the antenna wire for the cell phone option which I passed on in 94 at the time of purchase.

My question is - was I correct or should I go back and perm splice these together?

Wires at the trunk hinge can break so cleanly that they can look like they have been cut. I wouldn't know what the green wire does without looking at a wiring chart but I recommend splicing it together. It's not the cell phone antenna wire -- if like the 90 LS I had, it is a rather thick coax wire and ends just above the headliner at the center of the rear window ... you should be able to see it if you gently pull the rear center edge of the headliner downward a fraction of an inch.

Thanks for your quick reply -- I'll do as you recommend -- makes sense

REVERSE LIGHT COMES ON WHEN I PRESS BRAKE

Well yours is certainly an usually post.

Are you asking for help? Do you consider this a problem? Are you proud of your reverse light coming on when you press the brake? ;)

If this is happening on a 90-94 LS400, then you most likely have broken wires in the driver side trunk hinge. Splice/solder in some new wire and tape it and the problem will most likely be fixed.

It is an incredibly common problem with the gen 1 LS400 and is the reason I began using this forum after wires in the trunk hinge broke on the 90 LS I used to have.

1990LS400,

Thanks for the info - I did like you said after locating this post and quickly located a white broken wire which when spliced back solved my "R" light dilemma and the accompanying rpm surge. Saved me much heartbreak and money.

However, I also found a green wire in the same bundle that appears to have been cut. I did a temp splice but could notice no effect on any system or equipment. I kind of assumed this was the antenna wire for the cell phone option which I passed on in 94 at the time of purchase.

My question is - was I correct or should I go back and perm splice these together?

Some people actually do remove the battery and air filter ducts to replace bulbs from the engine compartment.

However, the recommended and much easier method is to remove the entire light assemblies from the front. Once you remove the parking light housings (the corner lights next to the headlights), it should be fairly obvious which bolts and screws hold the headlight assemblies in place. Take care not to alter the aiming screws! If you don't touch the aiming screws, you will likely not have to re-aim the headlights after you reinstall the assembly.

I have not removed the headlights on a 95-97, but removed the headlights numerous times on a gen 1 (90-94) LS400. The process looks the same on my current 2000 LS400 so I am assuming it is about the same on a 95-97.

After I did it a few times (I experimented quite a bit with different bulbs), I could remove a headlight unit, replace a bulb and reinstall it in less than five minutes.

After removing the screw holding the outer parking light in place, you may find that it takes quite a bit of pressure to snap it outward. Be sure to spread the force while grasping the leading edge of the parking light assembly as you pull it outward. The parking light housing and lens can become a little brittle with age and you don't want to crack it!

Good luck!

--------------------------------

Well, 2 years later a belated "thank you". I have replaced basically all the bulbs on my 1994 LS400 but was frustrated with the headlights -- I just couldn't get to the back of the light to take out the assembly. I took a break and came in and surfed the web & LOA for advice. Your reassurance that it was easy took me back out to the car and after just a few minutes of reflection and study it flashed on me what you were saying. I already had the parking light panel out (I've replaced that one several times already) and that had exposed the 2 nuts I had missed and zippo -- I was done in 3 minutes!

She's a great old car and I'm hoping for another 5 years and 50k miles !!

Jim