Andrewsreef

DougJohn2, it is doing much better. I had to have the head gasket replaced and have the head surfaced. That fixed the oil/coolant leak. At the same time I had to have the head/throttle body cleaned of Carbon. It was plugged up real bad. I replaced the 3 components of the EGR system and that fixed the CEL. However, it still knocked real bad even on 93 octane. When they pulled the head off, the mechanic showed me the EGR port on the intake. It was totally plugged with carbon. Now that I have all of this done, it drives great. Even runs on regular gas like it is supposed to do. For the first time, I am enjoying this truck. Now that I have practically restored it, I will keep it for a very long time (as long as not many more surprises). Thanks for asking as it was a real mess for a while. Andrew

I use the Toyota oil filter (new one) and my truck takes right at 8.5 quarts to get it to the full line after a complete oil change. This is what the FSM states (I think). The manual states the amount of oil from the low line to the full line is 1.6 quarts (aproximately). My truck has a bit of a consumption issue also. No smoke at start up or anything but I seem to burn about a quart every 1600-1800 miles. Not what I wanted for a Toyota Truck with only 80k but it seems to be the case. Some seem to do this and some do not. The PO of my truck did not keep up with the fluid maintance (I think so anyway). I have about 3000 miles on Mobil 1 Truck & SUV. I have another 2 cases of this stuff and I plan to use it up. I have heard from the IH8MUD site that Rotella T Full synthitic (Group III base oil) 5W-40 is really good and reduces the consumption issue some. I may try it down the road. Good luck Andrew

I can tell you I replaced all 3 components and still had pinging. Espacially at normal acceleration. What I found out was there is a port about as big around as your pinky finger. This port is on the intake plenium and is accessable only after you have removed the throttle body. Mine was completely plugged with carbon. My CEL went out when I replaced my VSV but this port was the cause of the pinging. Hope this helps. Andrew

Thi, I use mine to tow a flats boat to the keys (about 1000 miles round trip). Mine with all the gas and gear may be at about 2000lb. My temp guage does not move. I am not sure but that does not seem normal. I would check your fan clutch and make sure it is ok. Also the thermostate and the radiator, are they in good shape? I have been told that the temp guage on these trucks is not very sensative (if it is going up your truck may be getting hotter than it shows). Do you have a way to check the coolant temp and see what is going on? Now that I have practitially rebuilt my truck (including a new radiator and head gasket), it drives like new. Good luck. Andrew

Rookie, I just ordered a repair manual for the LX450 on Ebay for $85 including shipping so not to bad. Thanks again!!! Andrew

Rookie, I got a quote from cruiserparts.net for $175 for a used Intake. Do you think that is a good price? Thanks Andrew

Rookie, thanks again for the fax the manual and your NOTES were invaluable to repair this. I did it Sat AM with little problems. The CEL is now off so I hope I am ok. THanks also for the other website information. Unfortunately after talking to them, I need some serious help with my truck, Headgasket is down the road and I need to get my Birfields repacked. Still not sure if I am going to keep this thing. Another thing I noticed while doing this repair, one of the nuts that holds the intake together has been overtorked by someone and cracked the intake at the part where the screw goes in. Not sure if this can be repair with the headgasket or if it needs to be replaced. More $$ I am sure. THanks again. Andrew

Thanks Rookie, I do not seem to be getting the CEL anymore so it may be ok. I will definatly check out that web site as I am at a loss. The Headgasket or what ever my seeping leak was my mechanic put some stuff from Cheverlotte into the radiator and it has not leaked since. Kind of scarry, huh. Supposed to stop the electrolisis that eats the gasket???I have alot of issues with this truck and if it does not get better soon, it will go by by. I wanted one of these things forever but this one has been a total frustration. Thanks Andrew

Ok, I switched out the EGR and the Modulator and we will see if the CEL stays out. I took it for a test drive and it is still pinging. Could this still be because of the VSV? I have no idea at this point. Thanks Andrew

Rookie, thank you for getting me that info. It is very much appreciated. The VSV cost me Just under $100 with tax. I am getting no deal from the dealer. My Wife's Cousin owns a local tranny shop and can get me a discount on parts but I hate to bug him. What I plan on doing is replacing the EGR and the modulator and see how the truck drives/acts. I do have the old green top modulator so I may be in luck. If I am still having CEL and pinging issues, I am going to attempt the VSV on Saturday. THe info in the FSM is much more detailed than Alldata and your notes are a BIG + but I am a little nervious about doing the VSV. I may get a friend of mine to help with it if he can. My luck I will brake the Throttle body or something else quite costly. Again, thank you so much for the info. Andrew

Rookie, according to the FSM, do you have to drain the coolant to remove the Throttle body? Alldata says you do in the process and that seems odd to me. I would hate to waste my coolant as that was just serviced. Thanks for the help. Andrew

I am definately going for the manual. My Alldata is useless for this kind of repair. What is really bad is the mechanics around here do not use them and they end up wasting my time and money doing the wrong thing (like spending all day trying to get the fuel filter off). What is involved in taking off the throttle body? I am trying to get a hold of a manual real soon. Thanks for the info.

Thanks for the info. I went ahead and ordered the parts from Toyota. Cost me $300 for all 3. I am going to try and replace them all this weekend. All look easy except for the VSV. Where is this thing? I heard in another forum that you could remove the support bracket for the Intake and get to it. I see a vachume module of some sort directly below the intake but I am not sure this is the VSV. It figures the most common problem part would be the one impossible to get to. I am anxious to replace these parts on mine as I have been having problems with pinging even with 93 octane gas. I have heard this can be a problem to cause knocking. Thanks for the info. Andrew

This is my latest problem and appears to be a EGR problem. I looked at Alldata and it can be one of three parts. Does anyone have any experience with this problem on a LX450? I am tempted to change the Valve myself and save the trip to the mechanic. It is easy to get to and not to expensive. Thanks for the help. Andrew

Good info Dougjohn as I have the whistle also in my 97 LX450. Thanks Andrew

Not completely sure about the LX470 but my LX450 is a maintance nightmare so I would say get the warranty. Thanks Andrew

Can I ask you how much it was to repair if you have done so already? I am proably in the same boat as you. Lexus wants $3,500 and calls it an engine overhall. THanks Andrew

$1000 total for the repair would be reasonable if I can get it done by a quality mechanic for that. I am just concerned that this will be the begining of more troubles. For example, is it normal for this truck to use 2 quarts of oil in 3k? I am using synthetic blend and will switch back to straight Castrol next. Not sure if this is because of the head gasket or what. Seems very odd for just 77k. No smoke or leak I can find anywhere. No water in the oil but I guess I could have oil in the water and not know it yet? Thanks

I have a water leak at the back of the motor where the block and head meet. My mechanic did a pressure test on it and all came back ok. After talking to the Lexus dealer, it sounds like the early stages of a head gasket going out. Anyone know what is a reasonable price for this repair from a good non-dealer mechanic? The dealer told me it would counted as an "overhall" and would be about $3,500. Steep price for a truck that looks flawless and has only 77k on it. I have had a lot of problems with this truck and I will proably not keep it if it is going to cost this much to repair :( . I will proably cut my loses and give up on it (if you can not tell, I am very, very frustrated with this thing) even though I really like the truck. The repairs on this thing have been outrageous and I must admit this is the most trouble I have ever had with any car ever. If you have done a head gasket recently, please let me know what it cost. Thanks Andrew

Thi, I still bet it is the radiator. Mine has been replaced (along with most other things on this truck) and it runs the same in hot weather or cold. Even if the water is flowing, it could be plugged up some and cause your symtoms If the water temp turns out to be "normal" than it may be something in the A/C. I had a ford truck that did something similar to your description and it turned out to be a bad evaporator. Just my 2 cents. Good luck. Andrew

Ok, purchased a remanufactured starter from Advanced Auto Parts as it was only $178 compared to $325 at the dealer. I had my mechanic install it. THe only problem now is it has a different sound than the original started. Advanced told me it is a OEM starter, but now they say it will sound different as it is "remanufactured". I love it when people do not give you the real story. I guess as long as it does not have a metal to metal sound it should be ok? Anyone else done something stupid like this to save a buck. Thanks Andrew

All factory stuff on my truck. I decided to post a more detailed description of my troubles as there may be more to this. Thanks for the help. Andrew

My truck has 76k on it and this problem has been an issue for several months now and becoming a real PITA. When I go to start my truck after it has been sitting for a while, I turn the key and all my idiot lights come on as normal but when I turn it to start, I get one click and nothing happens. If I let off the key and do it again, sometimes it will do the same thing and after a 3rd time it will usually start. When it clicks, the starter does not turn over at all. This is not a low battery type of multi-click at all but more of a sound like the starter solinoid is failed to engage the starter or something. I took it to my mechanic and he could not find anything wrong as he could not get it to do this with his "machine" connected. Also, I am on Battery #3 in 6 months. Just had to replace it yesterday as they seem to slowly die. Again, no signs of lights or anyting else being on. I also had my charging system checked and they said it was fine. Any ideas on this as it is driving me nuts. I am temped to change the starter but at $300 I would like some more evidence. Thanks Andrew

I am on my third battery in 7 months. My charging system is supposively ok. I am thinking somthing in the truck must be staying on. Anyone ever heard of a problem like this before? Thanks for the help. Andrew

How far did you have to !Removed! the timing? Just curious as I have it set at 1.5 to 2 BTC and it cured most of it. I still get a little. If you !Removed! it back to far you may get poor mileage and carbon buildup. I was tempted to !Removed! mine back one more degree. Thanks Andrew