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Rookie

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Everything posted by Rookie

  1. Donno, but FYI a lot of people refer to brush gaurds as "damage multipliers". Accidents that would normally only cause minor bumper damage, turn into busted grill work and crinkled hoods when you have those brush guards on.
  2. Whoops. Here's the link. http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/642...dification.html
  3. This link on how to modify the factory temp guage, has a good explanation of how to remove the instrument cluster.
  4. I wouldn't be horsing with it like that. If it's running that bad something is way off and you need to get it checked ASAP. You could be causing a lot of damage by running it. I.e. what may be a relatively minor fix now, could turn into a toasted motor by continuing to run it.
  5. I can't tell what that is from the picture (kind of foggy), but your setup is a little different than the LX450. There's nothing in that area on mine. There are a couple of things that connect up to the throttle body on mine (just not in this spot), that are about the size and shape of what you're showing. One is the Throttle position sensor, the other is the Idle Air Control valve. Obviously both could impact issues that result in the problems you've described. Both of these bolt to the throttle body, and have a wiring harness that clip into them. I don't think something like this could just "pop off", but look around some more and see it there's an empty wiring harness dangling from somewhere.
  6. If your head gasket blew, you'd typically have white smoke and a coolant smell coming from the exhaust and overheating. If your PCV valve were stuck open and you're sucking oil into the intake chamber, that would make it run really bad, other than that the first place I'd look is fuel delivery.
  7. You might try the for sale section over at IH8MUD.com. A lot of those guys have changed wheels and/or taken them off because they like the look better.
  8. Usually I get about 4 quarts +/- to drain out through the plug. IIRC it has around 12 in it total. Next time around I'm going to pull the pan and clean out the bottom good. It's never been done before and I'm sure the magnets are caked with shavings. FYI, go easy on the tranny bolt torque. The pan or bolt has been known to strip.
  9. I'm not sure I can add anything about the weird ca-chunk thing as I've not experienced that. I think I was just asking for clarification about what he was talking about. I've always heard not to try to pull a heavy load in reverse, like pulling someone out of a ditch or something, because it's to much strain on the transmission, and it's not up to that kind of load in reverse. Wouldn't think backing a trailer up would cause a problem though. Regards, Rookie
  10. Diffs: Remove fill plug, then remove drain plug to let oil out, replace drain plug, pump new gear oil in, replace fill plug. righty tighty lefty loosy... not much to it. Trans: Remove drain plug to let fluid out, replace drain plug and add new fluid through tranny dip stick tube. If you're going to work on you rig, you need to invest a couple of bucks in a manual. Chiltons can be had for $20, it does a very good job of describing the procedures for most minor maintenance. If you want to go deeper the FSM is around $100. Although the drain and fills above are about as simple as it gets, there are tid-bits of information that I haven't listed which the manuals have (fill height, bolt torques, fluid specs etc..) Good Luck, Rookie Edit: the drain and fills above are for an LX450. You've listed LX470 as your car model, but you posted in the LX450 forum.
  11. Good deal. The one useful thing about an oil pressure gage is that if it's reading zero one of two things has happened, either your engine has blown up or your gage isn't working. If the engine is running, it's pretty easy to elliminate the first one.
  12. Next round maybe. Baby steps... She's still my DD. :D Funny thing is, I got them from Discount Tire and they originally sent the wrong size... 295's. I didn't even notice until the tire installer came out and said "you sure these tires will fit :o "? With my no lift, they packed the wheel well. I had to send the back :( .
  13. If I'm sitting in my LX, I can bend forward a little bit and look over to see the white cap for the passenger seat. It's located under the seat (obviously), towards what would be the upper left corner (for the passenter seat). It goes in horizontally, so when I look from the drivers seat, I see the philips screw end of it. Hope that helps.
  14. 265/75-R16. They are slightly narrower, but about an inch taller than the stock tire I had on, so I got a little bit of lift to boot.
  15. I narrowed my choices down to the Revos and Nitto Terra Grapplers. I went with the Nittos beacuse the based on the reviews were great, ratings on tire rack were as good as Revos, and the price was a bit cheaper. They have a pretty meaty profile to them.. look good, they are noisier than my previous highway radial. On a scale of 1 to 10, 1 being the previous no-noise radials, 10 being the droan of a meaty mud tire, I'd put these at about a 4 or 5. Definitely noticeable, has gotten less with age (about a year old).
  16. Yes those are all on one 30 amp fuse. The fuses block is located on the bottom of the dash, left of the steering column. There's a plastic cover plate with "FUSE/OBD" in big letters on it. If you'll look in the index of the owner's manual under "Fuse Locations", it will direct you to the page 234 for the fuse descriptions and tags a number for the location.
  17. I talked to him about it a few months back. I'm sure he still sells them.
  18. You talking about the interior plastic trim molding? Let us know if you're able to fix it and how.
  19. They're not like normal bulbs, so I don't think you can get them at your local box store auto parts outfit. Any Toyota or Lexus parts dealer can get them. My D light went out, and that's where I got mine.
  20. Yep, dealer should be able to give you any service history if it's been serviced by Lexus. As you mentioned, rear main seal seep pretty common. Mines been doing since I bought it 4 or 5 years ago. You'll want to inquire whether any front and rear axle service work has been performed... replace axle seals, clean and regrease CV (birfield) joint on front, clean and repack wheel bearings. These trucks have a propensity to blow head gaskets, so you should inquire whether that's been replaced. If it's been replaced with the newer style casket by a reputable shop, I'd consider that a pro instead of a con. Some other items that are somewhat big ticket things that could be going on.., oil leaking at the front crankshaft seal and oil pump cover gasket. That's most of the big things..., other than routine maintenance stuff like brakes and rotors, just walk the vehicle and look things over. Check the under carriage for excess rust... that's never good. Cheers, Rookie
  21. Moving? Under acceleration? At a stop? All the above?
  22. What about the current ride don't you like? Too soft and lacking stability I presume? If you're wanting to maintain the factory height, a lot of people seem to be happy with Bilsteins. If you want to lift it any, Old Man EMU. Regards, Rookie
  23. http://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storef...t-dvd-done.html
  24. Door panel is pretty easy to remove. Three screws, then pop the clips free around the perimeter. You have to pop the leather armrest off to get to one of the screws, the others should be visisble. First place to start is to pop the panel, and clean up the switch area. Regards, Rookie
  25. I believe you're actually talking about the oil pressure gauge (there is no oil level guage, only an annuciator light that kicks on when the level gets low). Oil pressure increases when you accelarate and decreases when you're at idle, so the guage movement is normal. There's a nice little illustration in your owners manual that shows the normal ranges that your gauge should fall in under idle and acceleration. Regards, Rookie
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