Neo

The BBK with the least amount of clearance requirements is the 4-piston kit from Rotora. The problem is that they currently does not have an SC application. They do have GS and IS applications. Since the Supra TTs work on the SC, GS, and IS, it may just be a case of testing or maybe a bracket. You might want to contact Rotora to see. Although the Rotora 4-piston kit is one of the more "affordable" kits, they are still more money than the Supra TTs and LS brakes. You will also need at least 17s for any of the BBKs. The TTs and LS brakes are the most bang-for-the-buck. Unfortunately, they are also large and heavy. If none of these options work for you, your best bet is to upgrade your pads to something more aggressive and to replace the lines with SS ones. You'd be surprised how just these two will help. You can also go to C/D and/or slotted rotors to help with fade but unless you are racing, fade should not be a big issue. Also keep in mind that stopping is a combination of brakes, suspension, and tire. So even getting grippier tires or less mushy suspension will help you stop. ;)

Yes. :D And John, show off! ;) :P

Try one of these: http://www.xpel.com/ http://www.stongard.com There are a few more but these two comes to mind. They use 3M film but they have already developed templates for many cars and they have an installer network. I use XPel and love it. For a daily driven car, it really helps the front end in top shape. In addition to the paint, look into the headlight protection too. It really helps the headlights from getting pitted over time. Good luck.

Nice Mike. As for lowering, last I heard, MrSypher has Tein Flex coilovers.

Not Plug and play. You will have to splice a few wires. Sorry I don't have specifics on which wires but I know people who have done this. It is pretty straightforward if you are willing to cut the stock harness.

It depends on what kind of rims you have now. Unless it is severe, a rim can always be fixed by a good wheel shop. It may cost about $70 - $150 depending on the rim and the damage. Are the rims worth that much? If not or close, I'd just get a new one. As for DIY, taking off and putting on tires is not really easy. Do you see that machine tire/wheel shops have to remove and put on the tires? Unless you have one of those, I'd just take it to a shop. If you have nice rims, however, make sure you get recommendations to the shop and assurances from the shop that they have handled nice rims and won't damage yours.

Dealers or if you are luck enought o find one: junkyards. The 98-00 ones are hard drive based while the newer ones are DVD based. Are you replacing a bad one or trying to put one in? Lots of wiring to be done if it is the latter (although it hasbeen done :)).

Here is Win-Racing's home page: http://www.jin.ne.jp/win/

In addition to the L-sportline and JP, there is also the ones from Tom's and DSR. One of my favs is the UGO but production has stopped on these.

The 2003 parts should fit fine on the 2004s. What do you mean by full chrome kit? Chrome what? There are quite a few places to get parts but it depends on what parts.

If you are talking abou the thin chrome trim that runs all around the bumpers, then those can be replaced. Try contacting Steve Ganz at Carson Toyota gonzo4u@earthlink.net 1-800-908-6968

To do caps like lextasy, you can go to your local auto store (like Autozone) and get some blue bulb caps. For the cluster, I think you'll need 5 so it should cost you under $15. You can see what this looks like on lextasy's website. If you want to pay more and go for it, you can switch out to LEDs. Go here for more info: http://www.lextech.org The LEDs will make your cluster look like this:

WOW, I didn't know there was so many options to consider. I don't want to shave the inside of the fender and I would like all wheels to be tha same width. So now what do you think??? Well, if you are not planning on running staggerred wheels, then you probably won't have to worry too much about rubbing in the rear since the width won't be that wide. 8.5" will be a safe width but with the right offset, you can also run 9" widths. If you stay with 245/35 tires, you will probably be OK. If you go 245/40, then there may be rubbing in front at extreme turn radii. BUT, like I said earlier, the 40s will give you a softer ride. Anyway, here is a pic of one of my friend's car. He is running staggerred RezaxIIs like MrSypher but with the fat setup: 40f, 35r vs. 35f, 30r like MrSypher.

I think it starts at $65 /panel up to $85/panel depending on how many dings. I had a few other small ones that he took care of for no charge. I can't guarantee that second part though. :) You should call him for an accurate price quote on what is on your car. As for quality, you cannot even see the dent and I had some in harder to get to places.

Jeff Wright Hi-Tech Paintless Dent Repair 714.960.3143

Definitely keep us posted Mike. :D

Well, the SRT and the RMM are both PI TCs so you are talking about the same TC. ;) :D

First off you don't want to put a 30 series tire up front.. There's too much weight with the engine, you'll endup killing your rims.. With 19" rims you can go with a 40 series tire for the biggest side wall possible, I think that's one size down from what comes on the factory 17's.. But I could be wrong, it's been at least 2 years since I looked at mine.. You're not going to have a smooth ride like on the 16's but you'll be fine.. MrSypher is right. No 30 series up front for 19s. The normal setup is 35 series. If you want to do the "fat" setup, you can run 40 series tires. This will give you the same outside diameter as 20s. This is a good compromise setup since you get the height benefits of 20s while getting the ride benefits of 18s. You also get all the potential rubbing problems of 20s though.

That is good to hear. I did not remember the L-Tuned being that bad but I was riding on 18s. Plus, ride quality is VERY subjective. What is OK for one person may be really bad for another. Glad you got things straightened out.

The black plastic is misleading. It covers up some metal too. If you start to shave, once you get the initial 1 or 2 mm of plastic, you will start to hit the metal of the fender.

There are also bolt holes on the stock rotor hub. I can't remember what size these are but if you put the bolts in, as you tighten, it will put pressure on the hub (since the bolt is geting longer on the other side) and pop out the rotor.

A few more questions: Budget? For wheels? For suspension? Are you going staggered meaning wider rims in the back vs. the front? Or are you staying with the same size for all 4? Are you willing to shave the inner fender tabs? If you look inside your wheel well at the fender, you will see a black trim that covers the metal. Are you willing to shave some of that off? Some people don't. The answers to these questions will allow a more meaningful response for your needs. :)

I don't know about the ES but the GS housings are also reflectors. BUT the reflector pattern is different for the HID and non-HID housings. The HID pattern helps to focus the HID light better to minimize the glare to oncoming traffic. Usually on non-HID housings, you'd have to adjust the light down a bit to minimize glare but the cutoff won't be as good as the HID housings.

Yes, I would move to 245s. I don't think 255s will make a big difference, not like going 275s or 285s. What 245s gain for you is tire rotation to prolong tire life. The diameter is not as tall, although .2" is not significant but it may be just enough to help with the rubbing. You also lose 10mm so that the tires are not as flush with the fender. This will also help towards rubbing. Of course, I am talking in pretty general terms since I do not know the specs of your wheels: width, offset.

What wheels are on your car right now? 16s? 17s? If 17s, then you can probably go to 18s without feeling too much a difference. 19s and 20s you will. If you are riding on 16s, then you are not going to be able to keep that ride. People driving on OEM 16s who upgraded to OEM 17s can already feel the ride quality change.