Neo

Give these guys a try. Since I am going full aftermarket, I cannot use them. I know of someone who does and he is happy with it. If I was staying OEM, this would be it. http://www.vaistech.com

Not sure what product you were referring to. There was no keyless starting device on the page you linked to.

Well, this is a good place to ask questions and search for info. If you want to see what may be out there in terms of aftermarket, you can look through here for a sampling: http://www.l-tunedparts.com Although this site does not include everything, it has quite a bit for you to start with. Then come back with specific questions and the members here will try to help. Good luck.

Good call. I assumed the original poster knew but you know what happens when you assume. ;) It never hurts to make sure. With x7 rims, the "normal" width is 215 so the tire size would need to be 215/50/17 with an OD of 25.5" which is close enough to the GS OEM 17x8 size of 235/45 with OD of 25.3".

If you have the new headlights and the new wiring harness, it is plug and play. :) Go for it.

You are right. 17 refers to the measurement of the face of the rim. The second number refers to the width of the rim. This width is where the tires will be mounted. Comparing the GS 16s and IS 17s, it won't be that bad. You are right that .5" is not that big. I know of a few people who have done it and they are fine with it. I only voiced my opinion that I would not do it. Here are some differences that may or may not be noticeable to you. Only you can decide. :) - The stock GS 17s are 17x8. This is 1" wider than the IS rims. The GS is a big heavy car and a wider width tire will give better support. This is an extreme case but if you ever had to put on those skinny spacesaver spares, you know what I mean. Like I said, the spare is an extreme case only to support the point. - Reducing the width reduces the maximum width tire you can put on the rim. Although I have seen people pushing it, on a 7" width rim, the "normal" tire width is 215. You can push it to 225 but I would not personally go to 235 (although I have seen it done). On a GS 17x8, you can run safely a tire at 245 width. The wider the tire, the more contact patch is on the ground. The pros of this is more grip = better acceleration , better braking. The cons is that since more is touching the ground, you get more feedback from the ground = potentially more noise, less of the muted luxury ride. Only you can determine the balance you want to achieve. - And as I mentioned above, the wheel will be more inset. This gives a slightly narrower wheel base. Whereas some of us are trying to reduce the fender gap (vertically and horizontally), the IS wheels will be doing the reverse (horizontally). Like alexR said, you can get spacers to correct some of this. You will need to get the right spacers to maintain hub-centricity so that you won't get vibrations. Like I said above, you may or may not notice or care about any of the listed issues. If you don't push the car hard or are not that concerned about losing a little bit here and there, you should be fine with the IS wheels. For me, the negatives of this swap outweighs the positives. On your scale, it may work out differently. :D Good luck.

I'll just confirm what the previous posters said. The 01+ tail lights will bolt right up but you will need a new wiring harness (unless you want to cut/splice/solder).

I don't think there are any holes. I can't say 100% sure about the "L" since I did not take that off but the "Lexus" and "GS400" has no holes and this is the important part for what you want to do anyway. ;).

Every thing will fit and 16s as a spare will be fine. That said, I would not do it. The IS wheels are 17x7 while the GS wheels are 16x7.5. What will happen is that the IS wheels will be a bit more recessed in the wheel well. I don't think that looks as good plus you are getting a narrower wheel.

Yes, aftermarket remote starters are tricky but offers a number of features. If you are ok with the range on your remote and want the least intrusive install, try this: http://www.luxurymotorworks.com/luxlink_remote_start.php Not the same features as the aftermarket ones but this will do the job pretty well.

I started with L-Tuned S/S and they work fine. It may not be a low enough drop for him though since he want close to no gap.

HIDs are the High Intensity Discharge headlights, similar (but not exactly the same) to the BMW Xenon headlights. Tuck means that your tire/wheel is inside the fender. So step 1 is tires. Step 2 is gap reduction. I have not seen a set of springs that will allow no gap to the fender. One of the lowest springs are the Daizen progressive springs. They lower 1.9" in front and 1.7" in the rear. These will also ride similar to stock. Couple these with some L-Tuned shocks and you have a winner. The "right" way to do it is with coillovers. Coilovers are lighter, gives you adjustable height, and on some adjustable damping. Coilovers, however, costs a bit more. Coilovers are between 800 - 4000 (depending on brand and features) while shocks/springs will set you back 450 - 600. Installation should be about 200 give or take.

You are talking about LXOGOOD's car. And he got the autocouture LED illumination kit wired on his sideskirts. ← Is he even on here?

That is a tall order. ;) What do you mean by "eliminate" the fender gap? Reduced gap? No gap? Tuck? As for mods, here are some: Handling: Sways Front and Rear STBs Front and Rear LCBs Sportier Shocks/Springs or Coilovers (this ties into your lowering question) Performance: High Stall Torque Converter and Tranny Cooler LSD Intake Exhaust L-Tuned Steering ECU Aesthetics (OEM): 01+ Gauge Cover 01+ Tail Lights HIDs (if you don't already have it) 01+ Grille Sportdesign Grille Aesthetics (Aftermarket): Grille Body Kit (Front Bumper or lip, side skirts, rear bumper or lip) Roof Spoiler Trunk Spoiler (if you don't have one) All of these items are available for the car. It is hard to go into specifics without know more of what you want and what the budget is. You may want some or all of these things. Let us know more specifics to help narrow down the answers.

L-Tuned does not make any kind of bumper skirt, front or rear. Are you talking about an add on skirt or full bumper? What price range is "reasonable"? How dramatic of a change are you looking for. For example, Tom's and TTE has some rear bumper inserts (which only goes between the exhausts) but it does not change the look very much.

The 98 LS has larger brake calipers than the 91 LS. I doubt if the GS wheels will fit. The GS wheels on the GS itself will not clear any kind of larger brake caliper.

1.25 is about right for the L-Tuned springs. The Eibachs BA_GS400 has are also pretty good. Beyond this, the Daizens and Espelir give very good ride quality with some performance too. The only thing with these are that they have a more aggressive drop. 1.7" - 1.9" is the range that comes to mind.

Wow! Really? I've never heard it thought of that way. My intent was: "Here is a starting point for your search." Still, if more than one person read it in a negative light, then there may be something to it and I apologize.

Cool. :D Please post back if you made this happen. I love seeing low numbers on the GS. :)

oh pardon me. I wouldnt want you to get upset on your throne. Is it a first borns natural instinct to study archinves? thank you for your glorious reply and cheerful attitude! ← Not sure where your aggression is coming from. You are a new member asking for help and I showed you where the information is available. The Lexus site is the quickest place to get this info. There is also more information here on the forum if you do a search but since the info is not centralized, I just thought the Lexus site would be a good place to start. Then if it is not enough, you can search over this site to see if there are more details. If you read more into my response, then there is not much I can do. It is very difficult to put a tone into written words as you can in talking to someone. I can only imagine we are both reading the words with different emphasis. I've participated in online forums for awhile now and have seen these misunderstandings happen. I just wanted to say that there was no other intent other than to lend a hand. If you continue to think there is more to it, it is easy enough for me to stop contributing in this thread, move on, and let other members help you. No harm no foul. Good luck on your search.

that is something to think about, but with forced induction couldnt i see the same results if not better, for the same amout as keeping it N/A? again im not familiar with V8's im assuming that FI would cost a hell of a lot more than what it would cost for a 4-cylinder. how much would it be for a supercharger kit? i saw that RMM makes one for the new bodystyle G400, but it didn't give a price ← The parts I listed have proven results and pretty much all owners I know that did them were happy with the results. This includes people I meet on forums so it is not just my circle of GS friends. (I forgot the Tranny Cooler if you are going to do the Torque Converter. I always found it funny that these two really should be put in at the same time and they both start with TC. :)) For 5k, I think you would be hard pressed to be able to build a single Turbo. I guess it all depends on how far you want to take it. The FI route has higher potential but also some risk. Since it is custom, it is pretty much a one off. The 300 crank HP that the V8 has is decent. The bolt ons will allow you to use it to its potential. If you want more, you have to go FI. But with the parts, install, and tuning, you will easily be over that 5k mark. The optimal thing to do is to find someone in your area that has at least the TC and LSD installed and get their feedback. If you are lucky, they may let you take it for a spin. If this feel is not enough, then FI is your only choice. Finding this person would be that hardest part. Unless you like the mystique of having an FI car and/or are accustomed to 400+HP cars, you may be surprised at what these bolt ons will give you. Remember that feel and response of the V8 don't necessarly show up on dyno numbers. The guys I know with these parts dyno their cars at about 245rwhp which translates to about 326HP (factoring in 25% tranny loss) so the results do show up but the drive feedback feels like a lot more than a 26HP gain. There is also a torque comparison but you get the idea.

They are gone. I know who bought the last one in stock. He still has not received it though. RMM is delaying because of a few parts. :(

Well, it could also be track and weather conditions and maybe weight. The guys I know have systems in their car too but they all have TC, LSD, intake, exhaust. One even have a valve body upgrade. These guys don't go to the track regularly but do go at least once a year and before the GS did more track time. So they do know how to stage and launch. The one time I went with them, I did not see anything lower than 14.3. It was a pretty humid evening though. Still, 14.1 is one of the best numbers I've seen from the GS. I have yet to see a 13 NA GS but maybe you'll be the first.

Here is a better (IMO) solution: http://www.vaistech.com/home.html

For starters, you can look at the Lexus site in their archives and there will be specs on the 3 model years. There will also be info on what changed each year.