edbro

I just moved to TX where a front license plate is required. How do I mount it on my 99 RX? There are no holes, no bracket and the front bumper comes to sort of a point. I did a google search and didn't see any answers. I bought the car used. Was there supposed to be some kind of mounting option?

Mileage?

AWD or FWD?

Known service history?

Towing?

The RX is not a piece of junk. There are many, many factors to a good car/bad car. My experience has been positive. But, I have a FWD and I know the service history.

I might also add that my other car is a Toyota Avalon but it has the exact same engine as the RX. Both cars are fairly high mileage (72K on Avy, 91K on RX) and both run great.

Many of us who own or have owned early RX models would be thrilled to get this kind of mileage out of our original transmissions....

Many of us would be thrilled to get a BMW as a company car!

2002 RX300, 105000 mi. Moving to Denver where the regular unlead octane is 85 (R+M/2). Do you think altitude makes that much difference to octane requirement? Anyone know what Lexus says? Manual says to use 87 (R+R/2). Thanks!

We use 86 here in Albuquerque where the altitude is about 5500 feet. No problems.

Hello,

I had a flat last night, and I am trying to put the spare on, but cannot figure out how to take the locking nut off the wheel?

Thanks for all the help

You should have the "key", probably stored with the jack. The key is a piece that looks kinda like a socket and fits over and into the locked lug nut. Did you buy the car used?

Yep, it was used, and I could not find the key with the jack. Even the little pouch with the additional tools did not have it, and they all looked pretty new, and unused. Is there another way to remove that nut without the key?

You could buy another key from the Toyota or Lexus dealer. Most big tire stores have the keys also, but if you have a complete flat, that doesn't help you much.

Know anybody with a Toyota or Lexus that has locking lug nuts (and the key!)?

Hello,

I had a flat last night, and I am trying to put the spare on, but cannot figure out how to take the locking nut off the wheel?

Thanks for all the help

You should have the "key", probably stored with the jack. The key is a piece that looks kinda like a socket and fits over and into the locked lug nut. Did you buy the car used?

Assuming no CEL or other diagnostic indication your engine may have simply degraded to the point wherein 4th(OD) can no longer be supported.

Miles..??

He mentioned 128K miles. That seems kinda low for a quality engine to be that degraded. Or, at least I hope so as mine isn't too far behind it in miles.

Hey all -

I bought my 1999 RX300 used with 23k miles. It now has 76k and the transmission decided over the weekend that it had had enough.

Is it an AWD or FWD?

You are asking about an ES250 in the RX300 forums but for the RX, optimum idle is around 750 RPM.

Solved! The black solenoid that sits on the front of the IACV was installed upside down.

Okay, I just took it out for another spin and I got my first CEL. The code was P0120, Throttle Position Sensor. What's that? I assume I don't have something aligned properly?

"reset the computer" How, are you SURE...??

I disconnected the battery for 20 minutes. I also pulled the EFI fuse for 5 minutes.

Otherwise my guess you broke the MAF/IAT.

I didn't touch the MAF other that moving the hose it is attached to to get to the IACV. I'm not sure what the IAT is?

I cleaned the IACV a couple of days ago, reset the computer and drove it around for about 15 miles. All was good.

For 2 days now when I go to start it, it will not idle cold. After warming up it is fine. But, my problem now is that when at idle with the AC on, the idle drops to 500 and either the AC stops working or the idle will surge fairly rapidly between 500-1000 with the AC turning off and on. I drove about 40 miles around town yesterday. Mostly it was surging but towards the end, I noticed that the idle was smooth at 500 but the AC was blowing warm while at idle. If I turn the AC off the car idles around 750 fairly smoothly. Today, it was cutting off and on again. With the hood open I can see the AC clutch stopping and starting. If I rev the engine just a bit, the AC works fine.

Any ideas?

This is going to sound like a very stupid question but I gotta ask; Have you added fuel to the car since it cut out? You mentioned it cut out when you were low on fuel with the car pointed uphill, that actually sounds like it should have cut out on you from fuel starvation.

Drive Gear Indicator Light

Thanks EDBRO for the help and it does sound very difficult but i think i will give it a try because this light is also out. Just to make sure

i am talking about the indicator light on the actual gear shifter that says P

R

N

D

2

1

Please let me know if you can help and thanks again.

Yes, that is what the How-To refers to. Usually, it is only the "D" that goes out as that is in use the most. Are you saying that all your lights are out? If so, then that is another problem like a fuse or loose electrical connector. The how-to is for changing out the bulb, a very common problem with this car. Mine is out also, but the other lites (P,R,N,2,1) still work. It doesn't bother me.

i did use the Locking Grip Pliers in my procedure and this DEFINITELY allowed me to get the job done. W/O this tool, I would have been screwed big time.

So, was the pun intended?

It seems the biggest problem is getting the screws loosened. Has anyone tried a small impact wrench with a Phillips bit, or would that harm the valve?

Thanks!

I used the Craftsman “Bolt-Out”-Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set recommended by TallGuy. Works great. (Thanks Tallguy). See his post on page 2 of this thread.

I just Seafoamed both our 1995 ES300 and our 1999 RX300 yesterday. The brake booster line is in the same place on the RX300 as it is on the ES300, but it's back further against the firewall under the strut tower bar on the RX300. If you pull the top of the hose (and you can get to the clamp with a pair of needle-nose pliers), you can then just rotate it down to suck up the Seafoam. I did the 1/3 pint, sucked it up slowly, cut the engine (you'll want to put your thumb over the vacuum line or the engine will keep dieseling and turning over roughly... putting your thumb over the vacuum line will finish killing the ignition), put the vacuum line back on, let it sit for 5-10 minutes, started it up, cleaned out the ploom of smoke, and it's running nice and smooth. Seems to have cut down some of the engine clattor I had (that I was told was due to carbon build up). I'll give it a few months and then Seafoam the RX again. Our ES also kicked out tons of smoke, but looks and runs great now.

Seafoam and Auto-RX are two of the very few products I've come across that really seem to work. Well, I used Lucas power steering pump leak stop in my BMW and that worked well, but as far as really impressive products that do what they say, Seafoam and Auto-RX are impressive.

I also did the Seafoam treatment but I poured it through the PCV line as it is closer to the manifold. Mine pumped out about 10 minutes worth of white exhaust and made a significant difference in power and fuel economy. Even my wife remarked that the car seemed more powerful.

Currently own a 94 LS 400 with 194k and sold on Lexus, thinking about getting the wife a 04' RX 330 and wonder what reall ife gas mileage you folks are getting?

I appreciate any other input, I've heard about the tranny issues but really notheing else... thanks in advance..

There is a long discussion and poll here that answers that question.

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81889

I have a RX 300 all of a sudden no sound can be heard from the radio, radio goes on you can change stations atenna even goes up and down

I was told it may be the amp or speakers anyone have any advice on how to proceed

if you do please email me at soflmortgages@aol.com

Thanks

I would think that if it were the speakers then only one would go out at a time. So, my vote goes to the amp. Have you checked all your fuses? There might be an inline fuse on the amp but I don't know. I've never torn into the radio system.

How many of you ask for the old parts back after service? I'm having my water pump replaced while my timing belt is being changed and I would have no way of verifying that either was actually done. While I'm confident that the belt would get changed I would wonder about the pump. I guess what I'm asking is; does it create ill will at the very beginning if you ask for the old parts back from the service tech?

A good resource for finding mechanics is on www.cartalk.com. They have a database of mechanics that people have submitted and rated. I found a decent one local to me that way.

$1700 seems way out of line. My Toyo dealer has a coupon out for a timing belt change for $279, which is reasonable. They wanted another $215 to replace the water pump at the same time, which is not reasonable. My local independent is looking up a quote and will call me back later today and I will probably let him do it.

There is good and bad each way you go.

I have heard good things about the Edge. Also, maintenance on the Ford would be cheaper as we pay a "luxury premium" when doing anything with the Lexus.

On the other hand, the Lexus is a proven performer. By the 2004 year, most of the early design problems have been worked out. That is one of the negatives about the Ford, it is too new. I usually shy away from early models of a new entry as they sometimes have issues to work out by later years.

I would ask to see the mx records on the Lexus, in particular, oil change frequency.

I am very pleased as to results I got from doing a seafoam treatment on my 98 ES300 using the brake booster hose.

Sorry, I don't have the answer but I do have a question. Did you have to change the plugs after this treatment? I want to do the Seafoam but I just changed the plugs and I don't want to foul them. They are a royal pain to change on this car.