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Glazes will also not affect the outgassing; they're not durable, but they'll offer 'some' minimal protection.

He's referring to Microfiber waffle-weave towels for drying. Superior softness and absorbsion--available locally, and online. (You get what you pay for) Perhaps spraying each panel with a quick-detailer before you dry--this should help remove any new spotting on the spot, and provide some lubricity for your drying medium. Good luck!

Have you considered opting for a clear-bra?.. Protection 100% of the time, with no risk of scratching/micro-marring your paint during the applying/removing process. -- This would be my number one choice. Also, with regards to the durability of Turtle Wax ICE: It will not last long; not nearly as long as other products, that are available both online, and locally. It will last ~2weeks tops, less if you encounter rain showers. - For a durable wax available locally, try Meguiar's NXT, or the elusive Collinite (476/845) brand waxes. Good luck!

I could be old school but I would wait like 30 days. Maybe the new paints are quicker to cure. Not old school at all.. In general, the longer, the better. Here's a link to the most authoritive post I've seen on this topic: http://autopia.org/forum/647893-post19.html

The car looks immaculate for it's age, job well done! A little constructive criticism if you will. Under the hood, the reservoir and battery can use a bit more elbow grease, and APC + Brush. The rest looks clean enough to eat off of! Great job! --Gabe

Agreed. Save your next $50, and buy yourself any sealant from the following lines, and you'll be glad that you have enough product to do 20+ cars, with a far superior finish. - Collinite - Klasse - Jeff Werkstatt - Zaino - Duragloss Good luck! --Gabe

I personally have a Ridgid on a wishlist. They may not be the cheapest, but their warantee and impeccable track record are perfect for detailers. Just don't skimp and buy anything less than 5hp from them. And when extracting the carpet, remove the filter for the best suction! Good luck! --Gabe

+ 1 for Woolite/water (1:6) Steamer would be my #2, and then Magic Eraser.

+1 for the recommendation of FK 425! You can use this stuff for the interior too! (Dash, electronics, and even TV's in your house!) --Gabe

Engine cleaning shouldn't take no more than 15mins tops! 1. Start engine and warm up. 2. Spray degreaser liberally (Not WD-40) 3. Let degreaser work ~2 mins 4. Agitate heavily soiled areas with brush 5. Power wash (~1500psi and less. Much safer IMO from 1 meter away than 'flooding' with hose. Water out of PW is comprised of a lot of air) 6. Close hood (evaporate the majority of water), and continue with the rest of detail (Exterior/interior) 7. When done everything else, open the hood, and wipe up remaining isolated puddles of water. 8. Spray dressing, and wipedown. **Disclaimer** There are probably a million ways to wash your engine-- and the technique will differ from person to person. To be honest, unless your car is 20 years old, you'll be safe with the pressure from the hosehold hose. New engine compartments are built to withstand water, just as long as it isn't pressure washed (I do it, but you gotta be careful, keep a good distance) and concentrate the stream too long on one place, you should be fine. Obviously, take extra care around the fuses/battery/starter/alternator. Make sure the engine is warm before you start. Once you're finished, close the hood, and come back later to wipe up stray puddles of water. That easy. Here's a video clip that may help: http://www.adamspolishes.com/videos/cleaning_motor.cfm Good luck --Gabe

If it is only hazyness, and light pits/scratches, here's what I would do: 1. Tape off all the paint surrounding the lens 2. Wetsand one one direction with 800 grit 3. Wetsand opposite direction with 1000/1200 grit (Wetsanding marks from 800 grit should not be visible) 4. Wetsand opposite direction with 1500grit. (Again, till previous directional marks aren't visible) 5. Compound via rotary. 6. Brand, spanking new lens! Good luck! --Gabe

If your car is 'relatively' new, and you can 'learn to live with it', I definitely wouldn't wet-sand the clear. Reason being? Sometimes it's 'really' hard to determine just how severe the OP is, and whether it's severe or not, it will definitely compromise the clearcoat; which may lead to premature clearcoat failure. Definitely not a DIY-job. Good luck! --Gabe

This removed a spilled bottle of blue dye (the type you wash clothes in to re-colour) Alternative products- Heavy ink stains can be removed with Leather Masters - Leather Ink Killer This is a very strong cleaner, which could remove the leather dye, therefore use with extreme caution. http://www.topoftheline.com/leather-repair-products.html If Woolite 6:1, and Mr. Clean Eraser won't remove the 'jean-transfer', next up before going into specialized cleaners for me would to try some steam cleaning. I have a steam cleaner, and I realize that many don't, so the above links to Top of the Line, and Leatherique kits may also work. Being a 'jean-transfer', chances are that it will re-occur, and therefore, I too wouldn't use an acidic cleaner. (It's ought to happen again). Try protecting it, and prevent/minimize the chances of this happening again! Good luck! --Gabe