isboy

Yeah - but it would be nice if we could convince him to do his driving properly.

LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! all you dudes must be 60yrs old + i mean u dudes are some old fogies n e one know some forums w/ some cool dudes on em? I had a 350Z when I was 25 (29 now - yeah I am old). I took it to the race track. It was cheap on Wednesdays and a lot of fun. A hell of a lot cheaper than getting a ticket. Or would you rather be like my brother who spent the night in jail for street racing (in a Civic) and has to live with that on his record? Don't you think its possible that we are right? Did you see that video of those dead kids who were talking trash on a BMW forum? Edit: Also keep in mind no one is saying DONT do it. Give it a try, its fun! But do it in a controlled environment where someone with experience can show you how to do it right. Especially something like driftng or autocross. The *best* was is to have someone teach you.

http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/Colum...rticleId=124526 Man, that is one of saddest new clips I've seen. That tragic event should be replayed in every high school in America, with a mandatory attendance!! Maybe every car forum should have it as a sticky.

http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/Colum...rticleId=124526

Does the IS250 have enough torque to really drift anyhow?

OP you should take your parents drifting some time, I am sure they would have a blast!

I try to park next to the nicest cars I can. I know for a fact when I get out I am careful not to ding others as I might chip my own. So I look for a car with no dings, preferably an expensive one that is washed clean. I have heard horror stories about taking up two spots. It makes you an instant target for getting keyed. BTW I just had a nasty door ding removed on my IS250, and the guy did a wonderful job for 65 bucks. My wife had 2 dings removed before for 100 bucks, and we recently picked up an 09 Murano, and the first week she had it, it got tagged with hail on the way to work. We were fortunate to only have 3 minor dings on the hood but still... she was very upset. I am taking her car in tomorrow to PDR, and the estimate was 75 bucks. Can't beat that!

Yep thats what I am referring to. I used bad nomenclature, I meant the striker, not D-Ring. Its good to hear others fixed their problem the same way. Its been about 15kmiles since I fixed it and it has not come back.

where is the d catch? tell me how to get the door off. I really want to just to try and see if it helps It wont. Trust me and try the D Catch first. Its the ring that the door latch clips on to when you close the door. If you open the door, and look at th "door jam" you see a metal ring that has a piece of plastic covering it. Take that plastic off, and it has two star bolts holding it on. At any rate, to take the door off, you have to take off a series of screws, pull the handle off, take those screws out, pull out the wood trim (if your car has wood), take out mor screws, reach WAY up into the door while lying on your back to pry off some clips (its reallly hard), and of course disconnect the window and lock controls. Also, pull out the plastic molding holding in the tweeter. Its not in this order of course, but if you cannot identify what the D-Ring is, you probably do not want to pull off the door panel, as it is very easy to break, and probably really expensive.

Also, if your rattle is like mine was, and seems to actually be coming from the B-Pillar... don't bother taking the door panel off. Adjust the D shaped Catch in the B-Pillar. I had actually taken the door panel off, and can tell you how, but it was to no avail. Once I adjusted the catch it stopped completly. You carefully pry off the plastic cover, and then use a LOT of torque with a star wrench to loosen the catch. I then screwed it back in, applying force towards the inside of the car on the catch as I tightened the bolts. This causes the door to be held tighter (microscopically - I can not notice ANY misalignment in my car) and stops the rattle.

My money is on a stuck right front caliper.

This sounds like the exact problem I have on my IS250. I got back from a one week trip, and when starting it up the next morning, it rattled worse than I have ever heard. It only does it on "cooler" mornings after it has been sitting for a while, and then it only lasts a second. I am going to try 5w20 oil before I bring it in though.

It's in the owner's manual. You should have a hard copy or it's posted in the PDF files at the top of this forum. I get mine from Irontoad online. Also get the oil filters and engine air filters there at a good price. Its simple simple to do. My dealer wanted to charge me 250 to do that filter and an oil change. I did it myself. 30 minutes for the oil, 10 minutes for the filter. paid 60 bucks for all parts (running Mobil 1 synthetic). You pop out the plastic shelf in the glove box, behind that there is a "door" which you pull out - and voila! No tools needed.

I am almost certain a buyer will have to pay tax. Ask yourself - why would you buy a used car (even slightly used) when you can buy a brand spanking new one for the same price? In all likelihood you have lost about 4-6k on the car.

My B pillar crealing (by the seat belt) was driving me insane. It was a rattle -almost a buzz, and was almost constant. Dealer tried twice and failed to fix (though I was still pleased with the service). The dealer suspected it was the locking mechanism in the door. I have a good amount of stereo install experience so I pulled the door panel off and listened and tweaked. I essentially wrapped the locking mechanism in felt, and it did no good (the dealer put a tiny felt pad in there, which was kind of laughable). The solution came when I realized that if I pushed or pulled on the door, it stopped. I adjusted the striker catch on the B pillar slightly, and voila! No noise in over a week now (what a relief, I love my IS now!) The plastic is tough to get off the catch, I recommend if you want to try it (at your own risk) slide a credit card under the plastic, and use a skinny flat head to pry off the plastic. Then use a large star hex wrench (or bit) to loosen the catch. reseat it (you cant misalign it much here since the bolts are tapered) and cross your fingers.