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johnhoward

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  • Lexus Model
    LS 400

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  1. (Used to be an small equipment mechanic - lots of corroded, and stubborn nuts/bolts), and never had an issue removing a nut/bolt (always had acetylene torch to heat up the nut, also had other methods). However, in the field, you can try a cigerette lighter on the nut (after a few minutes it just might expand the nut to remove it). Sometimes, I also would soak the nut with penetrating lubricant and let sit awhile prior to prying. Breaker and cheater bars work as well, in conjuction with a 5 pound hand sledge hammer. Easy-off!
  2. I've got a 99 LS, and Costco sold me the Primacy tires by Mich. - so far, a great tire @ 40K miles. Smooth and soft ride. The best thing about Costco is that they'll balance, and rotate for free every 5K miles, and refill/check pressure (nitrogen is stock). I paid $700 and have been very pleased. The only downside is having to drop the car off their and wait (they've got no bay just set up for balances/rotations). PS - my former tires were Yokohama's which were directionals, I'll never put directional tires on a older car again. They wear out waaay too fast. So, I reccomend normal non-directional tires for this car (as it's a more touring style car). Now, I would only put directional tires on a car if the rims/wheels and factory specs call for it. Great choice in the Primacy! 2cts
  3. I've got a 99 ls, and had an independent shop do mine. The total job was $720 - new water pump, timing belt, serpentine belt, and thermostat. They spun my bearings and told me I didn't need to replace them and it was a waste of money. (even though I asked them to include this in the job). They even gave me my old belt back, and it looked like-new. My advice - call several established import repair shops and speak directly to the shop manager. Have him/her quote you the cost of the whole package (of above items). Let them know that you've talked with (competitor/s name - insert here). But, don't disclose the pricing. If they know your car, they'll already know its a fairly costly job and they'll tell you that on the phone. You should get an honest quote right away by doing this. This particular shop had been in business for at least a decade, and they guy knew my car. My dealer wanted $1500, and a local Toyota dealer wanted $1300. The independents wanted from $700-1000. Good luck -
  4. I have a 99 LS and I've had the fluid flushed/filled twice since I bought it (with 58K on it - now I've got 150K). I had Lexus/Toyota do the flush both times. As for changing fluid - it's a must and I wouldn't have Jiffy/Valvo/Penz/Meinke etc. do this service.. . A flush is better than a drain, because it gets most all old fluid out of the system. Drains don't do this and leave behind metal shavings/fluid in low points in the trans (which gravity can't get out). Albeit, any flush, or drain is better than none at all. Yes, the fluid will break down over time and as a result, doesn't produce as much pressure (compared to new fluid). Lack of pressure will eventually cause malfunction and it may go unnoticed until full trans. failure. So, old fluid will ruin the transmission due to fluid breakdown, and the metal shavings it contains (from normal tranny wear). The housing has a magnet in there, but it won't get everything as far as metal shavings go... . I agree - only OEM fluids and parts go in my car.. . (one exception; a K and N air filter, which I have good results with). I might change my opinion if I drove more aggressively, or for high usage (25K miles per year or more). Not for me. Good luck - J
  5. I agree the starter is in a bad place.. . I had to have mine replaced 4 years ago (99LS). The starter was put in the middle of the engine for balance and I don't think they changed that until 2007.. . So, I hope my newer Denso lasts longer than the first one (4.5 yrs). It cost me 1K to fix it!
  6. BB, Fix the brakes first! Could have a master cylinder, or line issues (as previously mentioned). Or, very worn pads, and rotors in conjunction with air in the lines etc. etc. My wife has a 1998 GS and today I took it in. It needs new ball joints ($550). - the car shakes at 60 and 78. It also feels a bit loose when going up hills (40 mph). So, I'd have the front end looked at along with all the tires being check for balance. There's no point in buying new rims and tires for that car if you've got suspension issues e.g. ball joints, strut, bushing issues. Get a few estimates from some trusted mechanics in your area. If you've got bad ball joints, don't wait around to repair this. Third - The tire leak could be a problem with your rim. If it's a chrome wheel, the chrome can corrode inside and cause a bad seal;hence causing the tire to leak air. A good tire shop can remove and treat the wheel for 20-30$. Be sure and mark the inside of the wheel so you can keep track of which wheels have been treated. Generally, they sand the inside of the rim, and add some sealant before putting the tire back on the rim. My wife's car leaks air out of the rims from time to time. We've had to have different wheels treated twice in the last 3 years.
  7. Shawn, Interesting... my wife's 98 GS (130K miles) just started doing this last week. Same thing... One minute, it starts fine, the next it takes 50 turns of the key to get her to kick over. I thought it was the starter on the car, but I also didn't rule out something with the ignition. I did clean the key, but that didn't help.. . I hope it's not the immobilizer thing. I refuse to go to a dealer!
  8. I have to chime in on this... since everyone has changed the subject (kind of). - I've got a 99 LS I bought the K and N about 6 months ago. So, the K and N hasn't helped, or hurt my mileage. I have the cleaning kit, and, have since cleaned it once - pretty easy - and, I like NOT having to pay 25$ (mininum) for a new OEM filter every 8 months or so. As far as added power, none extra with the K and N. I think the car intake sounds a bit louder as you accelerate. But, this is the same as the old trick of flipping the carbureutor filter cover over in the good old days - more sound, same or little power increase. I also have nitrogen filled Mich. tires - while they do seem to stay inflated more consistently - no better milage for me. I don't really believe in synthetic oils. They are more viscous and will leak much easier in older cars. Look for drips in the garage or drive. Stick with OEM oil and save the bucks, and drips. Some may say their cars don't drip, and they may not, but older milage cars with worn seals are subject to. 2 cents J
  9. I had a 94 Ford Taurus that had the same type of issue (I couldn't figure the vibration out). I replaced the motor mounts, and struts.., Tuned the car up, put in new CV shafts.. And, it didn't fix it. I chased the problem for nearly a year and did all the work myself. So, it still had the vibration and it annoyed me. I sold the car after spending - 600$ in parts to figure it out. Turns out it had more to do with the transmission and those cars are notorius for trans shimmy, shake etc.. I say, if the car drives good enough and rides good, @ age 17, don't worry about dumping 560$ into it. Not worth the money for an old car. Unless, you've got the coin and you really like the car (on your income that's a heavy tax for a vibration). If your giving it to your Mom and it annoys her - maybe she can pay for it. 2 cents -
  10. Common to these cars, and just an opinion -I've owned a 99 LS for more than 4 years and from day one, my car has always "clunked" upon braking (in the morning especially). It goes away and usually only does it only a few times a day. I don't notice it. My car rides and drives beautifully - no play in the steering etc.. I think you'll see some extra tire wear, but nothing bad. I wouldn't spend the money on the new strut bars, unless your wheels couldn't balance to fix a wobble, or unless I did the strut bushing/bar work myself, and that job really doesn't excite me just to get rid of the clunks. So, I don't think it's worth 1,000 to fix on a 10 year old car. You may go through tires a bit faster, but, I say, so what.. .? I'd rather have new tires every 3 years, then drive on chopped/cupped tires for an extra year or so.. . ***I must admit, I do get tire wear on the front left tire (the very edge). I think this is attributable to the bushing wear. I've had one set of directional tires, and had the car aligned, and re-aligned (not to mention balanced several times). I drive 20K highway miles annually and I keep my pressure checked regularly. ****So, in my opinion on this generation of LS, one should consider not buying directional tires (unless you want to replace them every 2, or three years, or if you are a speed racer type). I've found you can get non-directional tires and get much more life out of them with worn bushings which are common on this car. I'd redo the timing belt/pullies/tensioner, water pump, thermostat and drive belt for the grand (if you need to do something, these are a must do). Or, as a back up - you can buy a brand new set of non-directional Michelins for 700$. You'll forget about the clunk. I say enjoy your car with the clunk! 2 cents -
  11. Hello all - Problem - faint vibration noise/rattling from my steering wheel cover area. Car - 99 LS When I barely push my finger, or hand on the airbag cover on the wheel the vibration-noise stops... When you have a car this quiet, everything sounds loud.... Again, this noise is faint and constant and almost sounds like a rattling, buzzing noise. It occurs only when driving all speeds, and even when inching along in traffic. I think if I remove my steering wheel cover I'll figure it out. However, I'm a bit shy on doing this (due to the airbag etc. under there). Anyone have this happen and know how to fix it, or what the hell it is?? Thanx -
  12. My Z had 135 horsepower.. (Python) and, for those who know old Z cars (92lsforhundo), they're light and the straight six really will wind out good. Most roadtesters wouldn't drop the clutch to spin the wheels, so the performance specs look bad on the late 70's z cars. But, this isn't really the case. My car was quick! I also took it over 135 mph once and the car was purring along... I've never been faster in any other car since. Ok, the Z would probably lose in a downshift situation... But, this is a race off the line, so the Z could win... I also had a friend who owned a 78 280 Z and his was faster than my 79 (his had 35 more horsepower)... He raced everyone in my high school and he always boasted about beating everyone - the Camaros, Mustang GT's, IROC's, Fierros (yes, I said Fierro) and Porches - Those were the days - I'd still love to have a 78 280z in good condition - a fun car!
  13. I owned a 79 280z and I can tell you for sure, I used to race and beat V-8 cars of the early to late 80's.... If the guy has a 5 speed, and the car is running ok, the Lexus has no solid chance off the line... and I think a good driver in the Z car pulls out a win. I think the Lexus would come on strong after a few seconds, but it's catch up from there... As for the Z - Rev the engine, and pop the clutch and the Z car will instantly surge in front of the Lexus with a bit of wheel spin. I used to do this all the time when I was young, racing much more powerful cars than mine. My 79 Z was a quick car, but jumped off the line when poping the clutch. It was more like a launch... The weight of the car was just right to where you wouldn't burn too much rubber and the tires were gripping some during the launch. A pretty strong surge if I remember correctly... If I didn't peel out in my Z, it was just a quick car and would lose races to V-8's. However, the peel-out is the key -
  14. What's a guy with 2 Ferraris driving a 98 Lexus for??? ;) I like the S500 a lot - despite all the horrors I hear of them having electrical issues, etc.. Drove one last fall and loved it. 2cents
  15. Saw this old post - laughed all the way through... My worst cars: 1994 Ford Taurus - POS! - frustrating coolant smell from head gasket, transmission shudder - spent a ton on new struts, motor mounts, new tune up, AC problems (leaks)... Biggest POS ever... 1984 Ford Mustank GT - Caught on fire on the highway.... Hood started bubbling... Carb was leaking gas on the mainifold... - watched the car burn to the ground while fire dept arrived... Strange tires P220 only made by Michelin -heater core failed, gear shift broke, reverse gear broke (had to replace with a new rear end) - Caliper broke and repaired @ 450$... 2000 Ford Taurus - (you'd thought I'd learned my lesson) - in the first year of ownership: - engine immoblizer had to be replaced, both door handles broke in the winter - new hood struts - replaced - new blower motor for A/C - Heat - Firestone tires (in the years that they blew out on Ford owners) - my front right lost it's whole tread while driving along... Ford = never again.....
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