2rotor

Sounds like fuel pump. Can you hear the pump running when you turn the key on? I would spray some starter fluid in the intake and see if it will try to start then..

Not what I really wanted to put on there, but they were so cheap I couldn't pass them up. They are Milli brand I think it's the same company as MOMO.. Spruced it up a little, I will roll on these untill I come across a deal on the style I really want. (black w/ chrome lip) Anyway enjoy. Oh yeah the last picture is an 18x10 off my MUstang GT.. It didn't rub but they stuck out pretty far....lol.

I guess all I have is the valet key..hmm....

I want to buy some keyless entry keyfobs, but only if my car has keyless..lol.. Where can I check for the box, and is it pretty easy to code these things?

313,000 miles and runs like a top.

Ok well the Lexus is back up and running great (waterpump/timing belt replacement) and I really need to get the suspension done before I go too much further on the car (1991 LS). The chassis has 312,000 miles and is running on stock parts so it's as loose as a $10 hooker... Whatever that means. I want a lower, sportier feel to the suspension while not sacrificing the luxury aspect of the car. I like tight but do not tell me to cut the springs or empty the airbags or whatever.... Any advise?

Before you change the pump, check the relay.

Well I have been drooling over the subtle body kits (xenon to be specific) and would like to have some link to purchase the kits. I have been checking ebay but cannot seem to find ANY for the LS400 (91-94).. Where are you guys getting your kits..? I am hoping to get a NON FIBERGLASS kit for under $1000 shipped. I am a couple weeks away from it entering the booth for paint so time is of the essence.

I would start with easy things like.. Is the fuel pump running? If you spray starting fluid does it try to start..? Cars are pretty easy if you step back and look at what it takes to start the car... fuel, spark, air, and of course compression So all you really need to start is those 4 things.. Figure out which one you are missing..

Well I finally tackled the task of timing my LS400 after the shade tree mechanic fubared the waterpump/timing belt service (previous owner suddenly became a cheapskate and took the "easy route".. All the previous service including the engine replacement had been done at the local Lexus dealer) Well the mechanic messed up the timing by about 2 teeth on the passenger side. The owner passed the car on to me in non running condition and I determined the timing was off. With no futher backstory to tell I'll get right to it. I did not want to tear the whole front end down just to adjust the timing (as many people have to as it is hard to get it right and a lot of folks have to set it 2 or more times... I have simplified the process and it only requires the removal of a couple easy peices to get to. 1) Remove the Intake from the TB all the way to the front of the radiator. 2) Remove both of the plastic cam covers 3) Remove the ignition components from inside the cam area (I just layed them to the side without disconnecting them) 4) Remove the aluminum cam surrounds (unplug sensors and mark them) 5) Remove the two 12mm bolts that hold the belt tensioner 6) Compress the tensioner in a vice or large c clamp and push a long thin nail through the hole to hold it in place (set it to the side for later) 7) Remove the timing belt from the cams on both sides (slides off) 8) Turn the crank pulley to 0 degree mark and make sure that the #1 Cyl it at TDC (very important) remove the sparkplug and stick a long thin device in the hole and be sure it is at TDC or it will be 180 deg out of time. 9) Align the cam on the driver's side of the engine and pull the belt as tight as you can (seriously pull it really tight) and C clamp that bad boy in place (use the water inlet housing as a stop, so butt the c-clamp against it to hold it...) 10) Remove the Coil and hang it back over the TB area 11) For this step you need to make a cam holding tool. Don't get scared it's easy. Grab any flat metal you have laying around (I used 1" by 3 inch for the front (1/32 thick) and a peice about 7 inches long and 2 inches wide this for the backing) I then marked the holes that would need to be drilled in the tool. I lined up the long bracket with a hole on the bracket that holds the Coil and then drew with a paint pen to trace the topmost spoke on the passenger cam then drilled the holes on the small front bracket and rear bracket at the same time to ensure fitment. This is sounding complicated now that I type it.. Maybe I should draw a diagram.. Anyways I bolted the cam in place when it was lined up.. Just let me know if you need help with this process.. 12) Now slide the timing belt back over the cam on the passenger side 13) Get a buddy to help because you will need them unless you have 3 arms... have your friend hold crank pulley at 0 degrees while you install the belt tensioner or it will move, ask me how I know..lol 14) pull the nail/pin out of the tensioner while your buddy still holds the crank pulley at 0. TADA you are done... No more tearing it down all the way to get it right.. The tool is wicked handy and really takes the guess work out of it. Turn the engine around by hand to be 100% sure that the marks are lined up (at least 2 full rotations) Now just put the ignition back together and all the plastic covers back on and enjoy your Lexus.. If done with care it is only 1 1/2 hours of time... Hope this helps someone out.

Well I have a couple t60 turbos left over from an RX-7 project that went another direction, and the engine in the LS only has 60k miles on the rebuild so I thought that 260HP stock plus the twin turbo setup, Throttle body porting, larger injectors and pump, Chipped Celsor ecu, AND the ever not so popular "cold air intake" would probably make up for the extra weight.. I also prefer a manual transmission. I can live without the Tranny swap for sure but if anyone was interested in helping me (with ideas or "that won't work") I have my ears open.

Any ideas on how to "slip the belt"?

Well That is what I was afraid of...

Yeah I have the how to on removing the timing belt.. But I do not want to tear the whole front end down... I just need to slip the cam like one tooth over it appears.........

I have decided to keep the LS for.. Well forever... So I bought a gallon of black paint, a gallon of high gloss Clear coat and i am about to paint this beast. I have a guy coming to look at re-appolstering the interior. And I have my eyes on a set of 18x9 wheels with a polished 3 inch lip, and gloss black centers.. So the car will be my poor weather driver/kid hauler (i am selling the mustang and rx-7, gotta grow up right..) I will continue to drive the Zx6-R daily in nice weather... But to the point.. I want to swap a 5 or 6speed into this car. I am not a big fan of the Slushbox. I have some fabrication background and was thinking of using "toyota" parts.. ANyone researched swapping in a 6 speed out of a SUPRA into one of these?? Or even a 6 speed out of an IS300?? It would require a custom flywheel, driveshaft and an adapter plate to mate the Tranny to the engine.. Use a slave and master out of a supra or IS300 and then make some brackets... Am I crazy? ANyone with me on this.????

Ok I am getting ready to adjust the "mal-adjusted" timing on my LS. I am thinking of doing it as follows to avoid tearing the whole front end down.. But i have a couple questions first... Here is my plan minus one step that I need help with.. STEP 1---Remove the airbox/intake to gain visual access to the crank pulley STEP 2---Remove both the plastic cam covers STEP 3---Potentially remove the ignition components on the cams STEP 4---Remove #1 spark plug and get it to TDC STEP 5---Align the crank pully with the 0 deg mark STEP 6--- PLEASE HELP!!!! HERE IS WHERE I NEED HELP What I want to do is to somehow get the belt loose enough to move the cam over a tooth or two (on the passenger side) where the shade tree mechanic mal adjusted it. The passenger side header glows red so I am pretty sure that is where the timing issue is.. So in theory all I need to do was to remove the covers and turn the cam enough to line it up with the mark on the housing.. Can anyone help with tips and tricks? The belt and waterpump are new.... The engine has about 60k miles on the rebuild (269 on the chassis) Thanks fellas.

Its also possible that he used a cheap gatorback timing belt from kragens or napa. The timing marks are very hard to align on the cheap timing belts. I recommend a genuine toyota one. Not sure which brand... I'll have to look.

Well I am getting ready to tear this thing down.. Hopefully no major damge due to the timing being off...

The check engine light came on breifly then went off when I fixed the Vacume leak...

Wow! Great link.. But let me ask you this.. Do I really have to do all that just to set the timing?

How is your timing? I would pull the timing cover. Roll it up to TDC and inspect for marks. If have you access to a scope, You will need to scope the wave pattern. Inspect the ignition also. JP Importz This whole dual overhead cam deal is new to me.. I have previously only really dug into Rotary engines on Mazda Rx-7's. I am reading about how to set the timing now. It appears that when the belt was removed to replace the waterpump and idler pulley that the "mechanic" did not line it back up right. The previous owner claims that the mechanic had a lot of trouble getting it set. SO.... I am going to try to re-do it. My Father and I race miata's in the SCCA and he has set the timing on his 91 DOHC 1.6. It shouldn't be too much different... Thanks and any tips would be wonderful.

New Development!!! I played around with the car a little more yesterday, found a vacumme leak, i fixed that.. the car will rev up a little more then it would before but still not enough to get the car driveable. Also I let it run for about 20 minutes and it started to smoke from down by the exhaust, it wasn't oil or coolant just smoke... After careful examination I noticed that the smoke was coming from the header on the passenger side, and it was GLOWING RED!!! The drivers side header was fine and not smoking at all.. Just the passengers side was red and smokey.. WEird huh? Is it possible that when the timing belt was replaced the person had the Cam a tooth or so off only on the passenger side cam? would this cause the glowing header? Or is it something else? I checked the MAF connection and it looked good.. Seems odd that the car was running great before the Timing belt/waterpump replacement.....

It has 0 throttle response at all, it will go into gear but when you mash on the gas it acts like the throttle isn't hooked up but it really is....

I just picked up a 1991 Lexus LS 400 with 200,000+ miles on the chassis, only 68K on the engine. The previous owner had the waterpump, timing belt, and idler pulley replaced by a shadetree mechanic. Once put back together the car starts and idles without any issues. ALthough it will not drive. I got the car as part of a trade for a paintjob for his Escalade. ;) The front seats are a little rough but I think I did ok. Any Idea's on what might not be hooked up or why the car idles great but just will not pick up speed?? Thanks for any help you can provide.