jragosta

Before you take it in, check the fluid level. Low fluid level will cause slippage and is very inexpensive to fix. With your car's age, a transmission shop will almost certainly recommend expensive repairs. Even if low fluid is involved, they can certainly find something else that needs work. But if adding fluid makes 90% of the problem go away, you may decide it's not worth it. You'll only know that if you check the fluid before going in.

I'm not reading that whole post, but why then does the ES without trac or VSC have the same delay? I don't think anyone has sold an ES series since 2002 without VSC.... VSC was optional on my 2004 ES. I don't think mine has it. Once again, you should be looking at what other people are telling you rather than discarding all the facts that don't fit your world view.

That wouldn't possibly be related to the fact that the majority of cars on the market today (especially Toyotas) are FWD? True, but.... Toyota, having adopted the fuel saving features recommended back in 99 by Sierra Research, would have applied it across the product line, Toyota, Lexus, FWD, RWD, AWD and 4WD. I haven't been able to find even one complaint for the nature of the problem as described in the TSB in any Toyota Vehicle other than those with FWD or front biased AWD. You're systematically discarding any evidence that doesn't agree with your theory. There are reports in this very thread (even this very page) of RWD vehicles with the same problem.

That wouldn't possibly be related to the fact that the majority of cars on the market today (especially Toyotas) are FWD?

The guy is giving people incorrect information. I'm trying to correct him and inform people that his information is incorrect. If I had gone off line, people here would have been left with incorrect information. Is your objective to get people correct or not?

That is great don't take it offline. So now I am wrong..That is great and I just looked it up online this am on a famous encyclopedia, The American Heritage, yahoo, website; hmmmmm, wrong you say? I guess I am wrong since I did not build this and that and teach this and that; which correlates to nothing. Anyone can follow cookie cutter steps or “few rote directions”. Your definition is one of many. Mine and yoursare both right. You asked what PH is, not for the math formula (def) for plug and play. You asked and I told you. Now if you wanted the math formala that is what you would have gotten. Ask more specific next time. I have asked you 3 times for a conductivity meter and not a TDS meter. People use TDS meters and not “conductivity”. I do not buy a “conductivity” meter I buy a TDS meter and I am the one that stated this first. I stated this days ago and no response from you but TDS is wrong, blab blah... I asked ask you for the documentation for all the steps I follow for my reef? Nothing on your end, shocking ha. Oh, my attempt is again to take it offline since this is off topic. Can't people with PHD's understand this nor understand forum rules? I will gladly talk more offline since apparently I guess us little people know "jack"; attempt #4 now to take this off. Wow, what does it take. Again I would like to talk more offline but many attempts fail on your end to comprehend this. Your knowledge of this is light years ahead of man kind, I am sure, but just because you build this and that teach this and that means nothing. The only person in this thread that cares about this is YOU! You can start your own topic and go back-and-forth with yourself if you wish? I guess we need a mod here since I guess a guy with a PHD can't understand this & that no ones cares! You are unreal and I have asked to stay on topic. Take it offline (Attempt #5). ← That's an awfully roundabout way to say that you're wrong and don't know what you're talking about.

I'm not interested in taking it off line - I know what I'm talking about and you don't. I've BUILT the meters that are called TDS meters and I know exactly what they measure. I've taught chemistry courses involving water purification. I've designed water purification systems for nuclear power plants which produce water a thousand times purer than your 5 stage system will achieve. Your attempts to go off line are simply to hide the fact that you don't have a clue what you're talking about. Oh, and your explanation above 'PH is the a measure of the how action the H+ (hydrogen ions) that are in a fluid' is completely wrong. pH is simply a measure (in negative base 10 logarithmic format) of the hydrogen ion concentration in an aqueous solution. Admit it - you don't know what you're talking about.

No, you don't understand. As a manager I am telling you to stop dragging down all threads that pertain to the future of the ES with your issues with the transmission on your ES. If you want to vent your frustration to Lexus or to anyone, do it in the ES transmission thread or write them a letter. Any more off topic posts in threads outside of that topic of discussion will get you banned from the LOC. I'm lodging a warning against your account and I'm not kidding, so if you want to stay a member here knock it off. ← Have it your way. If you want to play dictator, go ahead. As I've said, a recurring problem that affects a significant percentage of users IS on topic when discussing future models. The biggest wish I have for a future model (and I'm sure many people would agree) is that the shifting problem be fixed. Please explain why that's off topic in a thread about future models?

You're playing it very conservative - there's nothing wrong with that. But in many parts of the country which have reasonably soft water, tap water is just fine - after being mixed with good quality antifreeze. ← Like I said in my town.... I'll bet we have some of the nastiest water round the US The locale water companies go nuts. The pumps they use are rated at a 5 to 7 yr life. Our water kills them in 1 to 2 yrs. In the summer the ground water is so hot, no one ever turns thier hot water on, becouse the cold water comes out at over 100 deg. ← I sure hope your town has some other redeeming characteristics. What you've described so far doesn't sound like much fun.

It's not the lack of degree that says you don't know what you're talking about - it's your insistence on making the same mistakes over and over - even after I patiently explain why you're wrong. You have a reef tank. That's nice. It means that you've learned to follow instructions. It doesn't mean that you understand water chemistry. For example, tell me what pH is - and how it changes with the addition of CO2. How much CO2 is required to reduce the pH by one unit?

You're playing it very conservative - there's nothing wrong with that. But in many parts of the country which have reasonably soft water, tap water is just fine - after being mixed with good quality antifreeze.

That is great you have a PHD...To bad I know people with PHD's that can put wipers on cars too. BONG Don't let a piece of paper "go to your head". When people starting bringing in degrees it is a last resort. I could careless what you have nor would I resort going to this level. You can take rules for this and that. I know what is "gospel" in the reef world. You can whine about TDS are this and that. In the end, you measure TDS in ppm, period. If you were right show me a conductivity meter and not a TDS meter. Show me where to buy a conductivity meter for testing my salt water????? It beter not have TDS on it anywhere. Higher PH in my world of water does mean low Ca and ALk. They are all again integral to eachother. Go get a reef tank and see how good your little piece of paper is; it will not pay for my thoudsands of dollars in coral either. To close, just because someone has a degree does not make them any smarter then anyone else. It means you can pass some tests, write some papers and talk to some people. Hell, I have been there and wasted my time. **If you want too, PM or email me since this topic is getting pretty old nor does 99.9999% of the people care about it nor who has what piece of paper either. ← While a PhD in chemistry doesn't qualify someone to put wipres on a car, it sure as heck ensures that I know a lot more about water chemistry than you do. 12 years of industrial research in water purification furthers that. You're using a bunch of simplifications that have been provided to you. That doesn't mean that you know how water chemistry works. From reading what you wrote, I can guarantee you'd fail a college Freshman chemistry test. No one is saying that you're stupid or that I'm smarter than you. But when it comes to water chemistry, you're just plain wrong. I have the credentials AND experience to prove it.

You have been taught to follow rote instructions. I have a PhD in chemistry -and over a dozen years of water purification experience. You are wrong. High conductivity is NOT always caused by high TDS. Higher pH does NOT mean low Ca in the water. Don't confuse the ability to follow a few rote directions with truly understanding a topic.

I know that TDS conductivity, as I noted before. I weakly full Ro/DI water (5-gallons) and heat and air rate with a 1,000 gph pump. The ph goes up a little (which it should) and the TDS go up by about 2 or 3. Most times over 24 hours, it is from the plastic etc. Your notes or post is correct by no one use a little amount. I do all my water in 1 gallon, 5 gallon or 20 gallon. Also if you blow on it, your PH will go nuts. Again I can make Ro/DI and buy ANY distilled wter from the food store or walmart; as I have in the past. All are over 30 ppm of TDS right after opening. And you can use sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) to raise PH but washing soda is better. :D You can also do the reverse. If you have high PH, if you blow air on it and it will lower; but other things change. ← You're missing the point entirely. Go back and read what I wrote. You are NOT measuring TDS. You are measuring conductivity which the meter converts to a pseudo-TDS value, based on an arbitrary conversion factor. CO2 in the water raises conductivity so that it LOOKS like you have 30 ppm of TDS, but you don't. You have CO2 dissolved in the water (which is not TDS). Until you understand that basic concept, you're going to continue to be confused. BTW, about half of your message makes no sense at all. You will find communication to be much easier if you check to make sure your post is comprehensible before posting.

The person asked about changes to the 2007 model. I pointed out one major change that needs to be made - on the basis of many dozens of complaints to NHTSA and hundreds of messages here and elsewhere. It's a change that will keep me and many others from buying another Lexus. So, yes, I do think it's on topic for a thread about changes to the 2007 model. As for not being able to learn to drive the car, that's absurd. You shouldn't have to adjust your driving style to fit the car. The car is clearly defective. The fact that you can learn to drive like a 90 year old grandmother so the problem doesn't bother you is irrelevant.

The real question is 'will Lexus learn how to make a car that shifts properly by then?" ← Does every thread started about the future of the ES model have to be drug down into some debate about the transmission shift hesitation? Seriously, you do this all the time and its getting really old. These comments have nothing to do with the thread, and any more off topic posting will be removed. Anyways, I think its more than likely we'll see a change from ES330 to ES350 and very likely we'll see HP figures in that range. I also wouldn't be surprised by an AWD option. ← While you're entitle to your opinion, I think it's worth not letting the issue drop. If people just accept an inferior product from Lexus, they'll continue to provide one. It's only by speaking up and letting Lexus know that it's unacceptable that it might get some attention. They need to know that I'll never buy another one until they fix the problem. Other readers might reconsider their purchase plans if they know about it. I'm sure that Lexus reads these boards. I think it's very dangerous to give them the opinion that an inferior product is acceptable. And, yes, it's on topic in this thread since we're talking about a future vehicle - about the year that I'll be buying my next car. Their ability to address the transmission issue will determine wheter I'd buy one - or recommend one.

Your information is not correct. Your meter is NOT measuring TDS as I pointed out. It measures conductivity. The only way to truly measure TDS is via a gravimetric method. Your meter measures conductivity - which it then translates to a TDS equivalent, based on an assumption that all the conductivity is caused by sodium bicarbonate (or something like that). If you take absolutely pure water and add CO2, the TDS is still zero, but the conductivity will increase. If you take your DI water and leave it exposed to the air for some period of time, CO2 will dissolve - and the TDS meter will show that you have TDS - which isn't true. In your case, you have it in a sealed jug. Obviously water in a sealed jug won't pick up CO2. Better yet, try an experiment. Take a sample of your RO/DI water and your TDS meter says it has 0 ppm. Now, blow into it with a straw for a while (obviously, you'll want to use a relatively small sample for this unless you want to be blowing for an hour). This will saturate it with CO2. Measure the 'TDS' again. I'm not saying that you can't get bad distilled water, but your test doesn't show that. You're simply measuring exposure of the distilled water to air, causing it to pick up CO2.

Shelf life is another issue. As long as the water is covered, changes in its TDS meter (that's actually a misnomer. It's measuring conductivity, not TDS. Some things like CO2 (which dissolves to form carbonic acid) will increase the conductivity on your meter, but actually don't contribute TDS) reading are almost entirely because the water dissolves CO2. That's why DI water that you buy in a store has higher conductivity on your meter than freshly produced DI water. The water on the shelf picks up CO2. Since the CO2 will largely dissipate from your water the first time the engine gets hot, this isn't a big deal. The other factor to consider is that your aquarium has different needs than a radiator. For example, you want to be sure that there are no oils or dissolved organics in the water. These won't have much impact on a radiator, but they can kill a fish. Plus, of course, your radiator isn't filled 50% with antifreeze that's loaded with corrosion inhibitors.

The real question is 'will Lexus learn how to make a car that shifts properly by then?" ← You know I wish I was in your shoes, you complain and complain about your trany in your ES but your trade in value is unreal!!!! TRADE IT IN IF YOU DONT LIKE IT!!!I own a grand cherokee and it sucks ,but so does the trade in value. So I wish I had your lemon... ← Actually, I can't trade it in. Company policy says I need 4 years or 100 K miles. And trade in value isn't all that great, btw. Look at lease residuals for an estimate of trade-in value. The trade-in is no better than other cars in its class and worse than some (Volvo or Saab, for example).

good link but I must say I would take deionized water and currently use DI waster over distilled water in a heart beat. Distilled can still have metals, salts etc (TDS) in them. If this was not true I would be using this water for my reef tank and no need a RO/DI filter. ← (Most of my professional career has been in water purification). It's actually not that simple. 'DI' and 'distilled' refer to the process used to purify the water. There's no guarantee that DI will have less TDS (dissolved solids) than distilled water. A poorly run DI system will have higher TDS than a poorly run distiller, for example. A well run conventional DI system should outperform a single stage distiller, but not a triple stage distiller. Then, of course, there are the DI systems used for things like water for injection (pharmaceuticals) and power plants (where impurity levels are measured in parts per billion or less). Then there's the issue of 'good impurities' vs 'bad impurities'. Chlorides and low pH are almost always bad. But a moderate level of carbonate (especially with a slighly elevated pH) can help to reduce corrosion (very pure DI water can be extremely corrosive in some circumstances). Bottom line is that for a car radiator, you're unlikely to see the difference between DI and distilled water. Either of them will have a low enough salt content that the difference won't matter - especially after adding the antifreeze which has corrosion inhibitors. For that matter, in many communities, the tap water is more than adequate (if the pH is > about 7.2, chlorides are low, and free chlorine is low).

The real question is 'will Lexus learn how to make a car that shifts properly by then?"

CPO or not, these cars bring top dollar in the used car market. I agree, if you have the $30k to spend, go for a new one. But those of us who only want to spend $20-$25k cannot afford a new one. Personally, I would rather have a car thats possibly a year older with a few more miles, and have it certified until 100k. Edmunds values for the '02 ES puts dealer retail at $24,000. Certified on edmunds is around $26,000. I think the point your missing is that these cars bring big bucks cpo or not. You should be glad that they are asking top dollar and can get it! ← That's all true. But you're not going to get a 1 year old CPO for $20-25. Using Edmund's figures, a 4 year old CPO is $26 K - compared to $32 K for a new one (less if you're a good negotiator). My question is - if the resale values are so great, why do the leases cost so much more than a comparable Volvo? A high resale value should mean a high residual - which SHOULD mean a low lease payment.

It's all a matter of personal opinion. Some people love CPO, but I think they're a lousy deal. You get a used car but it's very nearly as expensive as a new one. I would never spend the money on a newer CPO. You just don't save enough to make it worth while IMHO. If you can save $10 K, it might be worth while, but I've never seen a CPO deal that good. First, figure that you can buy a new one for less than list. If you compare the car to the price on an identical new one, the CPI is rarely that great a deal. ← I have read the trany thread wow!!!!!! that was crazy however I was feeling the cpo was a great thing but have to agree the prices for a 2003 and 2004 are $28,000 -%30,000 . This is far from trade in value of $20,000 and $23,000. I have no idea of course what price i would pay but it worth something for the peice of mind of 3 yr warrenty ,but i am looking at 23 yr old cars closer to 30,000 than 20,000 where I think they should be. ← The $28-30 K you're citing is closer to the price that my local dealer wants for CPOs. Given that you can get a new one for $32 K, I'm not impressed.

Let's take that as an example. A brand new ES can be purchased for $32 K or less. You save $9 K - by buying a car that has been driven 45,000 (well over half of the mileage I would use a car for) - and those are the best (lowest cost and newest) miles. Plus, your car is 4 years old right off the bat, has a smaller engine than the new ones, and so on. Personally, I don't think that's a great deal - and yours is one of the best CPO deals I've seen. The average CPO deal is much worse.

It's all a matter of personal opinion. Some people love CPO, but I think they're a lousy deal. You get a used car but it's very nearly as expensive as a new one. I would never spend the money on a newer CPO. You just don't save enough to make it worth while IMHO. If you can save $10 K, it might be worth while, but I've never seen a CPO deal that good. First, figure that you can buy a new one for less than list. If you compare the car to the price on an identical new one, the CPI is rarely that great a deal.