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johnny3

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Everything posted by johnny3

  1. I very much agree with izz30, the trans.oil has swelled the seal cups in the master cylinder & slave cyl. to the point they are jamming in their bores. You might replace the master cyl. first & try it, as the oil may not have reached the slave cyl. Probably need both tho.
  2. Hook a battery charger or another 12v battery to your cables before you remove them, then you won't lose any of your settings. I've heard of people using a little 9v battery to do the same thing (preserve settings.)
  3. I think you have to remove the tail light as a complete assembly before you can get to the bulb sockets. It's very easy tho, remove 6 hex nuts (10 mm wrench), then the whole assembly slips out exposing all the bulb sockets.
  4. The threads have thread lock/sealant on them so the first couple turns are pretty difficult, then it gets better, you need a good fitting wrench, I think it's a 12mm. Don't round off the corners, make sure you have the correct wrench, box end is best.
  5. I've got the IS-17's on my SC, they have the polished lip & spoke border but I cannot figure out how to get pictures from camera to computer & to here.
  6. There 17x8 IS-300 rims with 235/50/17. I'll try to put a picture in if someone can tell me how, I have one in the camera but don't know how to put it on here.
  7. I changed to 17" & probably gave up 10% of ride softness. The wheel merchants said the 18" would be much worse. The handling is much better. A lot probably depends on tire brand, some are firmer than others, I used Potenzas which ride softly.
  8. A mach. shop could make one out of teflon,better than rubber & self lubricating if something slides on it. What re the exact diminsions, ID, OD, Lenth? I can make it.
  9. He has another engine, he's preparing to swap it out!!
  10. I agree, try the sealer first, what do you have to lose? Also,you say heated & pressured up it develops a small miss? Get it to missing, let it miss a couple of minutes, shut it off, remove all spark plugs, inspect them close, one of them will likely have some anti-freeze on it.
  11. Take the rack & associated parts to a machine shop & have a new bushing made.
  12. Get on autotrader.com, you'll find some there.
  13. Yes' it's under the intake manifold, I took one off last year for my daughter, 110k, took starter to rebuild shop,they replaced solenoid contacts, I told them to repl. brushes also because it's so much labor to remove, brushes were not very worn tho. Has worked fine since. $37 for starter rebuild.
  14. Get the 300, lots simpler maintenance---mine's never needed anything except oil changes, 1 battery, 2 air filters, wiper blades, now at 53k. I doubt that the 400 rarely needs anything either tho.
  15. My 96 still has the factory pads (50k) & dust has not been a problem, your's have probably been replaced with after market generic pads. Stay with Toyota/Lexus pads, a lot of people prefer "Porterfield" pads because they leave hardly any dust.
  16. I would be interested in the copys of the Mitchell set, I have a 96 SC300 & a 2000 ES 300. johnny@ rectec.net
  17. If shop impact wrench won't break it loose they use a "slugger" type wrench or heat it with an aceteline torch like I discribed.
  18. The bolt face & pulley face get their surfaces mated up against themselves so well they just become "stuck" & you can't hardly twist the bolt loose in the conventional way. You need a stronger impact wrench,over 200 lb. torque. Another way I've done it is to take a acetelene torch, heat the bolt head red, let it set (soak) about 1 min., then you can turn it easily, heat makes the bolt get longer (expands long ways). Good luck
  19. I bought a new Mercedes SLK, it has the 3.2 V6, first oil change MB dealer installed factory recomended oil. Mobil 1 0/40.
  20. I'd go to Mobil 1--5/30 with a Toyota or Wix filter, 8-10k between changes.
  21. Genuine wheels are made by Toyota. About all the Lexus wheels will fit, they are 5 hole on 4 1/2 bolt circle, about 50 mm offset. I'm probably going to sell mine (96 SC-300 with Gold center cap emblem, tires & all), I put on the 17" IS-300 wheels. If interested e-mail me johnny@rectec.net
  22. The handling is much better. The ride is harder. Probably depends on tire brand.Try to use the brand the factory uses (Bridgestone Potenza or Michlen Pilot), they cost more but will ride the softest. I think I gave up 10/12% of ride softness going 16" to 17", you may give up a little more going 15" to 17". It's really a cheap upgrade when you consider how much better your car looks,(if you use a genuine Lexus wheel.)
  23. My 96 SC300 listed for 49,987, I have the window sticker.
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