honkand

If you expect to be doing more repairs then invest in a shop manual. Then you can determine what the procedure and if it is beyond what you want to do.

I don't know if the message I sent yesterday got to you. If it did then this is just a repeat. I'll take you up on you offer if it is still on the table. Would like two if possible, will re-imburse. I have two radios that do not work. Quite willing to send you one of them. Dave Honkanen 2878 Grandeur Ave Ottawa Ontario K2B 6Z1 honkand@navcanada.ca NOTE: To SKperformance - please don't edit this ......

They say 6.3 A. One tested to be opened. Finding a source for parts is proving very difficult, can you assist? Thanks in advance DaveH

Thanks PIONEERSUBY Disassembled the unit, could not locate the fuses. On the boards, CNP 2270,2994, 2340, 2388 could only find fuses labelled FU401 and FU402 on assembly CNP2994. Appreciate further assistance, thanks in advance. DaveH

I have 93 ES300 with a Pioneer Radio with CD. Originally the Radio worked fine, but the CD player would not activate. The CD mag could not be ejected. So I disconnected the connector and performed the connector tests as per the factory manual. This process entails disconnecting the Radio - CD connector at the CD part and testing the output from the radio. Well, I must have done this wrong because the Radio is now dead. The car fuses are fine. I had a spare Pioneer radio (without CD) and installed it. All works fine. Looking at the Radio unit, there is no external fuse showing. So is there an internal fuse? Could use the schematics if someone has them. :cries: Cheers DaveH

Hello - For my 93 ES300 the Airbag light blinking condition points to a problem with the control unit itself, the Airbag control unit has its own power source and when the voltage drops below a certain value it triggers the blinking condition. My guess is that the SRS is now offline. This is all in the service manual for your vehicle. Not Haynes or Chilton but the actual service manual. Its expensive but well worth it. If you are going to take your car to an non-Lexus shop, which I do from time to time, I lend them my service manual.

You can try to remove the sensor, but they are usually seized and and are quite brittle. Be careful if you try this. My 93 ES300 has seen many winters so the sensor is not coming out easily or intact. A mechanic told me that a ABS issue is either dirt or broken teeth on the speed ring. The speed ring is on the axle shaft and as it spins the sensor senses (pardong the pun) through magnetic induction (I think) the speed. THe sensor sends back a series of pulses. When you have the dive shaft pulled out, inspect the speed ring. Pulling the drive shaft can be fun. You can leave the rotor and brakes stuff on. Need to remove the axle nut, the steering and stabilizer nuts. The manual is key to this. I can post the manual directions if you wish. Getting the axle nut off without a impact wrench may be the hardest part of this procedure. IF you have an impact wrench then this entire procedure is not that hard.... if you have more than 5 screwdrivers than you are probably a seasoned DIYer. Another thought is to get the ABS codes and that will help in narrowing the problem. The procedure for doing this is in the manual. It entails accessing one of two diagnostic connectors, jumping some pins and reading the flashing ABS light to get the 2 digit code. Let me know if you are interested in doing this. Here to help. I have done this procedure at least 3 times in the last year. Trying to replace failed sensors cheaply is the next trick.....

What year of ES300? If it is 93 model then I can pass on the repair manual procedure. DaveH

Had similar problem. The first quick check is to check the resistance of each sensor with an ohm meter. My sensor measured 0 ohms or open circuit. You would need to access the connector that (for the front wheel sensor for a 93 ES300) is located at the top of the wheel well, behind the front wheel well cover, or underneath the fender. Pull the connector apart and you will see 2 contacts, measure across the contacts. If you get about 1200 ohms then the sensor is OK from a continuity perspective. If a sensor checks out fine at this point then cleaning it is the next step. This involves pulling the drive shaft out of the wheel hub. If you plan on doing more work on the car yourself then it is recommended that you get the repair manual. Also, the repair manual will show you how to access the ABS fault codes. If you need help then let me know and I will post additional info on the procedures. Cheers and good luck!

You mentionned that the tranny fluid was black. THis is not uncommon for the fluid that is drained out of the differential and not a serious concern. I talked to my local Lexus mechanic on this and he says for the first few diff changes he always sees black ..... I recently installed (myself) a tranny into my 93 ES300. Got a tranny from a wrecker that had half the mileage of mine. When I drained it, the tranny fluid was a bit dark. The real test is to lower the pan and inspect the fillings caught by the magnets. I cleaned the filter, its easy to remove and clean in solvent. I took out and cleaned the valve body. Take it to a shop to have the valve body cleaned. It could be clogged. JUst follow the instructions in the manual. Hope this helps.

For my 93 ES300, after I changed the tranny myself, the airbag dash light stays on indicating a malfunction. OK... followed the manual and retrieved the codes - 41 malfunction stored in memory. OK went ahead and tried to clear code, it would clear only to come right back.. The procedure is to alternative ground pins TC and AB as per the manual. At the end of the the ABS light blinks in rapid succession indicating the code has been cleared. But at the end of this the light never goes out. Check the codes and 41 is back. Redid the procedure a number of times with the same result. Tempted fate, went back after an hour and tried it except this time I wasn't careful and instead of alternatively grounding the pins I applied full battery voltage. Well the ABS light went out and will not come at all......... Thanks in advance to any help.

First you need to review the procedure in the shop factory repair manual. For my 93 ES300 the wheel bearing is pressed into the hub. You would have to take the hub off and take it to a shop. Removing the ABS sensor on a 93 ES300 isn't that difficult. You have to deal with rusty bolts and nuts. Not a basic DIY task but not that difficult. Without a shop manual you would also be guessing at the nut and bolt torque specs. You need the manual.

Withdrew original comment......... review this link for more detail .... probably less crazy. I agree now that the tire/rim size would not turn the ABS off, but there are secondary calibration and perfornance issues that are better articulated here. http://72.14.207.104/search?q=cache:d8MuH9...+RIM+size&hl=en

Can anyone help with providing a supplier who does Windshield Trim for my 93 ES300 and 87 Camry? Especially the top windshield corner pieces (Camry). Otherwise the top and side (x2) chrome pieces.

326Km on my 93 ES300. Last year replaced the head gasket and rad. This spring replaced the brake lines and rear suspension member. Currently, the car is off the road as the tranny gave up 3 weeks ago, and I am pulling the tranny to take it to a shop. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Update - Car is back on the road. Pulled the tranny and in the end elected not to take it to a shop. Junked the tranny and installed a tranny from a wrecker (the same wrecker that my Lexus dealer uses). Installed it myself, saved lots of money. I spent about 40 hours getting the old one out and the same to put the new one in.

I found that using a tie rod end puller lets me free up the control arm and slide it off the shaft. THe shaft that is exposed, behind the hub is rusted so it wont slide out. ;)

While in reverse and the car moving the tranny disengaged. After that it would not go into any gear. Has anyone experienced this? There were no other warning signs, the tranny has 326km on it. The car is religiously dealer serviced. The tranny fluid looks good. The engine light didn't come on so there are no codes from the Computer. I am pulling the tranny out and taking it to a shop for an estimate.

I am trying to remove the rear lower control arm from a 93 ES300. I have been able to remove upper part from the cross support member. I have removed the lower nut that holds the #2 lower control arm to the bolt that connects the #1 and #2 control arms to the wheel. The drivers side control arm slid off the bolt with no problem. However the passenger side is stuck.The passenger side control arm sleave appears to be stuck on the bolt shaft. From the manual it appears that with the nut removed I should be able to tap the (nut) end of the bolt inwards and thereby free up the sleeve from the bolt shaft. I need to take the bolt out anyway to remove the #1 Control arm. I dont want to cut the rubber bushing as I dont want to replace it. Is there anything else or precautions that I should take then?

Checked fuses, both are good. Tried reset button on CD deck, no effect. Radio still dead, won't power on.\

I have a 93 ES300 with a Pioneer sound system, the CD Deck is in the trunk. A cartridge was loaded, but the Audio display showed (i.e. nothing) indicating that the deck was empty. I knew that the CD cartridge was loaded. When I tried, the CD deck wouldn't eject, I suspected that the OPEN button had failed. I did a continuity test, like the manual suggests, and the OPEN switch was bad. I left the CD deck unplugged for the night. Started the car, the radio is completely dead now. Replugged the CD deck in but still dead. Anyone now where I can get the CD deck repaired? Help!

Has anyone had problems with their Oil Level warning indicator indicating a level problem, but the oil level is fine? After about 5 minutes the Oil Level Warning symbol comes on and stays on. The next time I start the car, after 5 minutes it comes back on. I have an 93 ES300, with 300Km's on the original engine. The oil pressure sensor does not come on, so I am pretty sure that I do not have low oil pressure. Its been doing this for about a year, progressively getting more frequent. The replacement cost of this sensor is over $500 Cdn ! THe dealer suggests that he just disconnects the sensor so that I won't be bothered by the indicator. I did blow a engine gasket about a year ago, which caused the engine to overheat for a few minutes. The dealer says that engine can ping into the red temperature and stay there for quite awhile before the engine is cooked.

Hi! Thanks for the advice, I am like you in trying to fix (as much as possible my 93 Es300). Is the Haynes 92 Camry manual fairly close to the Es300 configuration? The factory manuals are out of print. Could you tell me where the blower resistor is? Much appreciated.

Can anyone tell me the location of the blower resistor for an 93 ES300. I assume that the reistor has failed, as my fan only operates on high speed. I had a similar condition on a 87 Camry.