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gp1200x

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Everything posted by gp1200x

  1. You may consider doing the maintnance for the IACV described in detail on the forum, it may clear up your "2 key-turn start" I used to get that as well but after I did the IACV service it seemed to clear up. I also had a bit of stumbling at idle when cold, that was the thing that tipped me off to the IACV Your thumping when the tires are cold is the tires. It does not mean the cords are separated. Some tires simply do not return to their proper shape until they are warmed or rotated for a while. Toyota can perform the service maintenance work too! Same engine as their Camry. They are usually quite a bit cheaper for a timing belt/pump change. I don't think there is any way Lexus can legally void any warranty issues either. It you have 90K, I would change all the fluids if they have not been done before. Run nothing but synthetic oil in that engine.
  2. I have been trying to find the part number to replace the rear 12V power acc. cover. I destroyed it years ago and have never been able to find a part number for it in my parts manuals. Three dealers were also never able to find a part number for it. It's been like this for 3 years...I think they left this out of some of the part manuals Anyone have a part number for it....color is brown or tan...I am looking for the plastic cover and holder that the metal socket snaps into for mounting into the side panel in the back. It is all one piece I believe. Thanks
  3. Just ran across this site...might want to check it out. http://www.daizensporttuning.com/products/...m_bushings.html
  4. I have been plagued for the last few years with my 99 tracking to the right. Multiple Lexus dealers all gave me the same story...alignment is within specs...thanks for the $100! I swapped tires, wheels, replaced and checked brakes and a ton of other things with no success. I recently replaced the strut mounts and reinstalled the original struts and springs and cleaned everything. The strut mounts were replaced exactly on the old alignment marks and the lower shock mount was set pretty close but not exact as it was before (two lower strut mount bolts). My vehicle now tracts SLIGHTLY TO THE LEFT (opposite direction). This tells me that the camber has been my problem all along and the "within specs" is NOT good enough my 99RX. It has to be set precisely or it may track. I recall two other persons in the past that said the specs were way too wide and it would cause problems on some RXs. The allowable range variance appears to be 1.5 degrees on each side and if I recall mine were marginal each time I was given a printout. Since they were within specs I do not think the mechanics ever bothered to adjust the camber to the preferred optimal setting since it is a pain to align and they had their "within spec" bs to fall back on. The toe-in or out is an easy adjustment. I am taking my RX back in once I change the rack (steering too stiff) and I AM GOING TO GIVE THEM the values that I want it set to. Within Specs will not be acceptable to me anymore! QUESTION....I have found TWO different values listed in two manuals for a 99RX which really bothers me since both are supposed to be LEXUS original manuals. I have one that lists the preferred setting at -.33 with a range of -1.08 to +.42 Any confirmation? Anyone have an alignment done recently with their printouts listed? I am looking to see if I kept my old ones. THANKS
  5. I found my own answer....my rack is not causing the veering...it is improper camber.
  6. I ordered a rebuilt rack and pinion to replace mine since I am not happy with the force required on the wheel to steer the vehicle. I removed the synthetic fluid and replaced with the proper fluid type, added some Lucas fluid but I do not feel like waiting to see if it helps resolve the problem. I have a feeling the synthetic fluid over the last two years may have caused the seals to harden up resulting the stiffer steering. The pump seems fine and I have flushed and cleaned the system. (The last time I had this problem on a 99 Mercury the rebuilt rack made an incredible difference....and the car was a joy to drive...could turn it using my fingertips which I could never do even when new!.) My RX also veers to the right even after multiple front end alignments and tire swaps. No one can find the cause. I just repaired my antilock brake failure (wasn't causing any pulling problems), replaced my master cylinder (pedal would eventually go to the floor holding it down with moderate pressure after a while), removed and replaced my front strut mounts and removed and tested the back struts too....All the struts are fine with no leaks. I replaced all my calibers and installed new shoes too...calipers were warped slightly. So after all this I really should get an alignment too. Here is my question....finally...I am going to install the rebult rack before the alignment. Has anyone ever had a rack cause their RX to veer slightly to one side? Looking at the design of a rack, it is hard to tell if the rack itself can cause unequal pressure and exert a slight force in one direction. The steering wheel itself does not turn by itself, but I feel that the RX seems to turn slightly easier in one direction. I am wondering if this may be the rack causing my veering problem. Any comments or anyone ever have their rack cause this type of problem?
  7. Thanks for the info. I was thinking of cleaning mine this week but after reading about the problem someone else had in another topic I was wondering what I should be using as a cleanser. This answered my questions.
  8. Thats the problem..no one sells that one but LEXUS! It is not pressed into the hub, simply held in place with a screw...mine was out in 15 minutes....it was an open circuit...whihc is why mine failed as soon as the car starts in Park. Cheapest price so far - $180 at some dealers....I'm still checking junk yards.
  9. My problem is the circuit inside the pickup is open (winding open), so no pluse can be picked up. The axle and hub are fine. I'm trying to find one that matches the Rx size since the magnetic pickup has to be within a fairly tight distance spec from the teeth on the axle.
  10. My wheel sensor for the drivers front (AWD) has to be replaced. Part number is 89543-48010 The cheapest price I have found is $181 +. Does anyone know if I can use a Camry part or Highlander part for replacement? This has to be a common part used in some of the other vehicles. Anyone have a spare they want to sell. I may check the local scrap yards......This same part on my Mercury and Ford is $29!!
  11. Did you get a new sensor?? I need one but I do not want to pay $200+ for it!! May go to a junk yard.
  12. AWD 99 Flush the system as normal rr,rl,fr,fl The ABS excessive is pumped back into the main resevoir, but you do not bleed it. It is not under pressure, but still in a closed line at that point since it bypassed the system via the solenoid. Just pretend that you have no ABS. In order to completely remove the old fluid, you would have to drain the line from the abs bypass to the master cy., not really worth the effort...but if you really wanted to then you would need to activate the system repeadedly to flush new fluid into the bypasss and line to the master cyl.
  13. If you can clear the codes and they do not reappear and your light is off, then your system may be operating, but if any sensor code exists (reappears) after resetting it and the light is on, that system will shut itself down. Any malfunction of a sensor or the ECU itself could cause an accident so the system cannot activate if a current sensor error is active. This is the only vehicle I have ever owned that had an ABS failure, every other vehicle never had any problems... and I am not a big fan of ABS since it some circumstances it takes the control of the vehicle out of my hands
  14. I found my problem. I ordered two ebay manuals for $10 and one had a great writeup on the ABS and I was able to troubleshoot the bug. Bad connection on front driver wheel sensor (ABD error 32). For future help...tips.. The ABS system on the 99RX (don't know about later years), is actually pretty simple. Front and rear brake lines run to the ABS unit and it connects to the wheels. ABS errors can be found by shorting a wire and counting the ABS light flashes. Bleeding the ABS is exactly the same as a standard non-ABS setup...mast. cyl (if needed), then RR, RL, FR, FL. Think of the ABS as simply a T connection on each line to each wheel. The T connector is opened and closed by a solenoid for each wheel run. Activating the solenoid (by the computer) releases the hydraulic pressure by allowing it to follow through the T to the offshoot, thereby allowing the brake to release and the wheel to turn. No air is introduced into the system. The excess fluid in the offshoots is pumped back to the brake reserve and recycled. You do not have to worry about it when bleeding the brakes. Very simple design. If the computer detects any malfunction, the entire ABS is disabled, therefore no solenoids can activate. Failures are listing in the manual and they can be read via the ABS light itself in the dash. They can also be reset. I spent about three hours (half of it pulling panels to get to the connections) and was able to understand, diagnose and find the problem and fix it with no parts, although I may replace the sensor since it is now modified to work. Any backyard mechanic can probably repair this system with simple tools and a meter. A scope is really not required since if you get to that point, you will be spending major bucks on a new ECU. The ring gears seldom go bad unless physically damaged such as a broken tooth, which would require a CV replacement. I probably saved $500 -$1000 bucks since I know they would have done what I did and charged me top dollar to determine the failing component. A new sensor is about $200+, so I will not be buying one! Believe me...it is easier to fix than you think. I was able to trace the failure to the bad wire with just the $10 PDF manual on EBAY.
  15. how do they know it jumped a tooth? Is it running a little rough? I don't see how that happened unless you have deer parts stuffed up under the car. Verify the engine temperature is operating in the correct range..on your model the car needs to reach a temp range before the OD engages.
  16. ??? On some cars removing it does not reset it....could need a reader...depends on the model and ECU
  17. I think there are extended warranties on the cat and emissions systems......so Lexus may end up picking up the tab if a component fails or if it fails ipsection.TAKE it to LEXUS for them them state inspection so that if there is a problem they will have to repair the issue. They will only know the component is failing and not know why if it does fail inpsection. The cat may be 8 years now..haven't read the laws lately. I have know people that have done this before....once the diesel is out the worst it will probably cause is a possible emission failure. Running good gas through it will eventually clean the system out. It sounds like the injectors are all working or you would have felt the power loss. I'm surprised the car didn't tell you there was a problem with an engine check light on....the sensors should have picked up on this.
  18. That is weird...I use Fram when I have to...even though they are CRAP...but I don't see how it would cause a rear seal leak. Maybe the oil used by the dealer had a different viscosity which could explain the difference in the leak rate...I never trust dealers...they sometimes use what's on hand regardless of what the car specs say...seen this done at quite a few dealerships...Ford, Honda too. Overfilling the sump can also lead to rear seal leaks. If the fram did clog and restrict flow, the reduced flow should drop the pressure and the oil pressure sensor light would eventually come on. This would be far worse than the rear seal leaking. It's also possible for the oil filter seal to have a small drip even though the rear seal may have looked like it was the culprit. Looking at the filter it may not show any sign of an oil leak. I always oil the seal first and clean the sealing surface repeatedly. There will always be dirt around this area. and then again ..you may just have a bad rear seal affected by temperature changes. Before I ever replace mine I try everything possible. Removing and reinstalling a tranny always leads to another problem
  19. I wonder if simply disconnecting the battery and letting it sit for a half hour would give the same result as their "reboot".
  20. Ditto...I average between 18 and 20....sometimes 21 or 22 on long trips but usually right around 20 or a hair less with mixed driving.
  21. Thanks! I happened to see that stuff the other day but didn't read the label. I'll look into that since that rack looks like it is worse to change than an Audi and Ford.
  22. There's a ton of things that will turn it on...they need to pull the code to see what it really is before they attempt anything. I wouldn't assume anything ...and those sensors from Lexus are probably expensive compared to a local auto store. They can pull the code or a place like AutoZone can and it should only take a minute. It may be a cheap or expensive fix.. ...plus it will fail inspection in most states if that light is on.
  23. The boots do not hold fluid pressure but do keep the caliper and piston clean. If they are not too bad you could try to put a thin coat of sealant on them to cover the tear and get by.....but I would definitely replace on the next brake change. Forget trying to replace the boot...usually it is hard to get parts...you are better off replacing the entire caliper with a rebuilt one from Rockauto.
  24. If you do get rid of it pick the MDX. I know a few that have them and none ever complain about it. They all love it. I have a Honda and I am not that impressed with it. My next SUV will be the MDX. I rode in X5 and X3s and the insides did not impress me but I think the BMW engineering surpasses anything out of Japan. The brakes on most of the BMWs are massive!
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