99lsguy

Pacho, How about seeing what they do with the FIRST WHEEL. If its perfect.. then you know to fix the other one. If not, you have a great Spare rim that is true with just a few scratches - then order another two for the car.

VB, Yes, I too use the CWB and love it. Was made aware of it thru this forum (probably from you or SW). Can easily dry my car with just a touch up of ONE micro fiber towel after the BLADE :D A good product indeed. I've never had a nicer looking car thanks to this forum. Always a nut for technical specifications and maintenance; I have become obsessed in all detailing too :D

I have always heard to start driving right away. This gives the transmission, differential, and wheel bearings all a chance to warm up at the same time. Now, that being said, it should be slowly for the first 1/2 to mile or so. My 99 won't shift into 3rd gear easily if it is cold - much worse than any car I've ever owned. This is the only thing I don't like about my LS <_< Therefore , I only go about 15 mph (through the neighborhood) cause I don't want the engine to run over 1800 rpms before it warms enough to shift into 3rd gear. If it is cold and I run the engine up to about 2500 rpms - it will shift; but I don't like to run it like that. Once it gets over this initial shifting taboo, it's good for the day. BTW, my LS is ALWAYS GARAGED.. If I had to get right out and accelerate quickly I would let it warm up more. I still think this "Hard" shifting is not right <_<

Here's the next one.....

I don't know about that....if it has a BLEEDER VALVE. . the same procedure will work for it as the brake lines. I DO KNOW the BRAKE ACTUATOR HAS BLEED VALVE - this is 99 manual though! you'll need to bleed this too I hope we can read these pictures, if not I'll retry Good Luck

Interesting, I've got a complete set of Craftsmen tools.... But the extensions just have square end with NO Switch.. are these a NEW item? Also, Just a DEEP WELL (16MM-for me) will work with any plug? I'm used to a "dedicated Spark PLug socket" which has a little rubber gasket inside to "HOLD" the plug as you lower it into position. Sounds like I need to make sure the Plug won't fall out, huh? <_<

I think the local repairs guys I've talked to called them: strut rod bushings - so it is probably the same thing. They did mention they were prone to wear around 70K miles. Also the lower ball joints would be in combination with them. Just the nature of the care though - to get this kind of ride. They did not view it as a "defect" ; just a high wearing item integrated with the design This independent Lexus shop told me and believes Lexus has done a better job with the 98+ models on the suspension over the older LS's. They improved the quality and DURABILITY of the suspension. We'll See... My buddy who got me hooked on the LS had a 93 first & had NO PROBLEMS. In 1999 or 2000 , He got FRONT SIDED and totalled the car....Air Bags Deployed and all - So he found a 97 Coach Edition. It was after 80K that he had the suspension fixed for these "problems". The car would just "bottom out" if he hit a pothole. Anyway, they did both sides and it was TIGHT & PERFECT AGAIN. He never had any Transmission problems with either car.. 99

I think the wheel and doors have REAL LEATHER TRIM :D PROBABLY THE SEAT BOTTOMS (front and rear?) :D But what about the SEAT BACKS - ARE THEY REAL LEATHER TOO. <_< I have bottle of MEGUIAR'S GOLD CLASS CLEANER/CONDITIONER for Leather; If the other areas are imitation, then what's best to clean/condition? Thanks, 99 Steve - didn't you say 1:6 ration of woolite:water to clean leather?

Guys, On that plug change... My LS takes 16MM. Have you found any trouble/hindrance of the extension pulling OFF the plug and thus causing frustration to get the socket out of the "well"? Just wondering if a dedicated/permanently attached extension would prevent such a thing <_<

VB, I don't think I'll use anything else either..... I just take a look at the LS as I'm walking away from it (going into store, etc) and :D

MOE, Do all the things ucf3 has mentioned if Lexus is gonna strip your engine down to replace water pump. t belt, s belt, idler pulleys, hoses........... otherwise it's gonna be another 6 -$700 again. Your car will be like new - good luck!

Pete, This is not the 1uzfe engine but the master cylinder will look like this and be in this position under the hood. You should Suction out as much old fluid as possible in the master (use NEW TURKEY BASTER OR SIMILAR - MUST BE CLEAN) ; then fill with clean fluid and start bleeding/flushing.

What's ATE BLUE FLUID.....?

PETE AND OTHERS, Just checked out this website referred my MKTBULLY on the SC300/400/430 forums: SPEEDBLEEDER.COM Looks very slick............... :D

mktbully, Just checked out the website to speedbeeders... SOUNDS LIKE AN AWESOME PRODUCT!! I WILL GIVE IT A TRY :D

Sorry, Cut myself off there (above) What I also meant to say agrees Denny. If you drive 5-6 miles ONE WAY before stopping / shutting off engine then you have burned off the condensation. Anything less than 4 miles one way probably won't do it.

I think your battery is recharged within 2-3 minutes after starting.

Pete, Here's the old fashioned way...... You need another helper... maybe two The basic Idea is to pump the brakes 3-4 times and HOLD the pedal down. Then loosen the bleeder valve at each wheel to let old fluid flow out. put a 1/2" clear hose over the valve to flow into clear jug (so you can see it). After the pressure goes down, tighten bleeder valve, let off brake, refill master cylinder with NEW DOT 3 BRAKE FLUID, pump brakes again, open bleeder valve again... So on until you can see CLEANER fluid through that line. The idea is to work your way from longest line to shortest: so the procedure is RR LR RF LF in that order. They make PRESSURIZED systems so you can make it a ONE PERSON SHOW. They are pretty slick but never used one. I would like to try it though! IF YOU GET UNDER THE CAR BY USING A JACK MAKE SURE TO USE METAL STAND JACK TOO FOR SAFETY. DO NOT TRUST THE HYDROLIC JACK ALONE. FOLLOW MANUFACTURES INSTRUCTIONS AND BE SURE.

MOE, If you look at the undersice of the Oil cap and see a "milky" film under there then you could have head gasket cracked.

Two things, The Collinite guy told me both the 476s and the Insulator were basically IDENTICAL WAXES.... Just different additives to make one paste & one liquid. Next - I LOVE THE SHINE I'VE HAD FOR 2 WEEKS :D Can't wait to give the LS a hand wash this weekend to see even more sparkle! Thanks Guys

UCf3 & K9, I'm getting a sick feeling about this...... Bad Deal gone BAD <_<

They should have changed that thermostat went they replaced the coolant reservoir Make them change it under the condition it's for parts/ coolant only - don't pay them for labor. If they won't - take it somewhere else! Otherwise, do as UCF3 says - you can do this! JUST BE SURE AND EXAMINE THE WAY THE THERMOSTAT IS IN PLACE WHEN YOU TAKE IT OUT - DOCUMENT WHICH END IS TOWARDS YOU SO THE NEW ONE CAN GO BACK IT THE SAME WAY - just in case.....

The "seating" between the tire and rim can also be a problem. Most places rub a compound around the inside lining of the tire to help it "seal" around the rim. Good luck. Steve, I hear ya -- I want new tires too

Usually you can shave off 2.0 mm ( .08 inch ) from the rotor. I'm sure thickness vary, but for my LS it's 28mm new & min is 26mm.

New rotors for my 99ls are about $129 each from discount OEM lexus store. That's $260 so I don't know what it costs to machine rotors - I agree w/ Grinch, if they can keep within specs then you've saved bigtime. If they are going to be marginal, then just get the new ones when you have $.. Either way, you will want NEW PADS on after one of the above procedures.