bean_8044

You could make them fit with some kind of bracket, but its going to be easier and probably safer to go with the Supra TT 2-pots.

Well, you still have to add in custom headers, the intercooler, piping for the intercooler, upgraded fuel system and some kind of ECU to deal with the boost. You could make a budget kit and it would help if you knew how to weld, but it wont be better in the long run. Best bet is to take it to a shop unless you feel comfortable with welding and taking your engine apart

How in the hell did i miss that post..... Let me ask this, does anyone besides me actually live in Japan? I know theres at least two others, so please speak up. First of all, there is no horsepower regulation. PERIOD. Nothing that says a Japanese car manufacturer has to limit their horsepower. There's the mystical gentleman's agreement, and thats it. Secondly, the valves are exactly the same size on both heads. You can almost use the 2jz cams in the 1jz except you have to mill down the front journal .1 or something. All of the GTE heads have ports that are angled for the TT manifolds and the heads flow almost the exact same. My 1jz revs pretty damn fast, but there are some 2JZ Supras around the sound like motorcycles.

It would work, but i dont think its the best for your application. If you check the ClubLexus forums theres alot of info about turbocharging the SC400. I think most people are reporting around 5-6k for total cost

Or just put a needle in the nozzle. Not very far in, at most 1/8 inch. With the needle in, you should be able to redirect the nozzles also

Beats me...mine didnt start to go out till 90k KM.

bad vibrations?? That may be a motor mount issue, but the hesitation can usually be taken care of by general maintainance.

All of the blocks(1jz/2jzgte or 1jz/2jzge) are pretty much the same. The only real difference is the oil squirters arent installed in the GE blocks and there isnt any taps for oil to the turbos. Naturally the 1jz blocks are shorter by 20-30mm i think. Heads will bolt to either block and the only differences in there are the port spacing and direction.

Also, dont believe everything you hear about Japan. There arent any junkyards with TT supras lined up as far as the eye can see next to the R34 GT-Rs. The government is very strict as far as modifying your car and what you can get away with. There are some shady places to go, but its your !Removed! if you get caught.

All you should have to do is take off the trim pieces from your foot level all the way up to the padded stuff around the steering wheel. Theres screws for the stuff around foot/knee level and the padded stuff comes out by pulling. Once you take off all of the trim pieces just disconnect the plug that goes to the trunk release and put a paperclip or a wire in the connector to connect the two wires.

By the way, the Soarer never came in AWD. The UZZ32 was active suspension/4 wheel steering 1UZ V8 and thats the closest to perfection that it came

http://www.ebcbrakes.com/Automotive.html

If the dealer is quoting you $180 for pads then that better include the front, rear, and e-brake pads. If not then i would never go to that dealer again

Yeah, it was randomly pinging and stuttering at very low rpms (2k), so i just hard wired it in. Works great now

I have the R154 in my Soarer and if i had the choice i would go to the V160. The R154 just isnt a fun transmission to use. Its notchy and so damn heavy to shift, but thats the nature of the beast. Either one will handle the power as long as youre not doing clutch drops, but the v160 will be much easier to drive, especially in america with the open roads

Fuel pump ecu regulates between high pressure and low pressure depending on rpm. I think around 4k it kicks over to high pressure on the JZ, not sure about the UZ though. In the backseat, behind the left panel (Drivers side for the US), youll see it hanging there. Just one screw and a small wire harness and its done. Ive had mine bypassed for a few months now with no problems.

Trust me, unless you keep on it 24/7 itll go back to "normal" in a few days

With an open exhaust the boost comes on low and its really unknown how long the stock turbos will last with higher boost levels. Ive run mine at almost 1bar for a year with no problems, however some people blow them after a month. Im converting to single so it doesnt make much difference to me. Supraforums has some stock 1JZ dyno graphs posted in their forum

Its stuck with the torque convertor. You should be able to lower the trans just a bit and wiggle it around a bit to make sure it will come loose. Just grab the tail housing on the trans and go side to side so it slides back an inch or so. Then you have to pry out the torque convertor from the crank. So basically, pull the trans back some to expose the torque convertor, and then use a pry bar to get the torque convertor out of the crank. Its in by about 1/2 an inch also. Once you get the torque convertor off the crank the trans should drop right out

Worse than the 2jz?? Smaller engine, smaller injectors = worse fuel economy? As long as you stay off of boost which isnt hard at all with the torque and easy city driving i get about 4-500km out of an 18gal tank. Once you get on the boost and up in the rpms then you start to suck gas alot. Also, seeing as how almost all of the parts for the 2jz will fit the 1jz, they have pretty much the exact same potential. you can make the same numbers with either engine

One acronym: N/A-T One of the SC300s on Club Lexus are around 600hp with a turbo kit and a headgasket.

My car came from the factory with a 1jz so i may be able to add some insight. The 1jz has exactly the same if not more torque when you compare a stock 1jz (TT) to a stock 2jz(TT). The sound is probably due to the exhaust manifolds being different. A single turbo 1jz with cams sounds like a 70s muscle car V8, but so does just about every cammed inline 6. The 1jz is fine for daily driving. The stock turbo system makes it nice since boost comes on really low(2.2k). As far as parts availability, the 1jz is becoming very popular in the states now. Most all of my parts i get from the states already.

Usually if the overdrive light is blinking along with check engine it would be a speed sensor in the trans. I would pull the fuse to the ecu and let it sit for a bit, then power it back up and pull the codes again. you may be looking at some old codes that have been in there for a while

Well, technically it will, but i would advise against it. Its a good motor with great torque, but its going to be a maintainance issue with the headgasket problems that they face, not to mention the wiring issues involved. It would be alot easier to swap in a GTE from the JZ series or just get a turbo kit for your car as it is now. Theres alot of people making great power on those kits also

Torque convertor going bad maybe? Usually they wont since its a pretty stupid device, but its a possibility. Maybe the line pressure regulator got hosed when there was too much fluid in there

My first guess would be an electrical short somewhere, but these are usually the worst kind. I would hope that its just a temporary thing, maybe just some water got in the engine bay and will evaporate itself out, but the dealer should be able to give you a free scan of the ECU for trouble codes. Its a long shot, but it may be worth it. I wouldnt drive around with the negative terminal loose like that either. It can cause more bad than good if it does come off completely. Removing or loosening the negative terminal on the battery sounds like a temporary fix also and im not sure why the dealer told you to do this....

The TPS is the Throttle Position Sensor and is attached to the side of the throttle body. Before anyone asks, the throttle body is easy to see if you pull off the plastic going to your engine. Itll be a circle or oval with a metal flap that moves depending on the gas pedal. The TPS may just be out of tolerance and giving the engine computer a reading other than what it should be when you go full throttle. The MAFS(Mass Air Flow Sensor) is actually a very accurate piece of equipment and shouldnt be messed with much. "Cleaning" is a very delicate process also since some cleaning chemicals will take away more than dirt. Anyways, the purpose of the MAF is to measure how much air is coming into the engine. This measurement along with your TPS measurement and RPM will be sent to the engine computer to determine how much fuel and spark to use. The MAF is a small metallic box located just behind the air filter. At least thats where i think it is. I have MAP so i dont know

Most likely its a blown strut, but random acts of god may have actually bent a control arm or something. I would put my money on the blown strut though