new2mud

Landar--did you have to break loose the upper control arm ball joint to free the UCA from the rest, or did you leave that in place? A list of major components you "disassembled" would be great!

As stated earlier, no need to remove the control unit in the trunk. Just remove the handset in the center console...no radio issues, and lots more space!

The firewall is a bit of a pain--you can also just use the grommet under the driver's seat and run wire through there.

hold on--not so quick. NXT has a great look--no doubt about that. However, many users find the longevity of NXT to be quite lacking. As a compromise, when I use NXT, I will let it cure for 24 hrs and then coat with an acrylic sealer like OptiSeal. I'd be curious to get an update comparison in a few weeks!

Since there was never a manual tranny option, you would have a heap of fabrication waiting for you. As for the t60 setup--go for it--it's been done, but not often. If you're handy with pipe bending/fab, it should be quite doable. You will most likely wind up with the hairdryers under the engine down low, where there is the most space. The stock ECU will handle ~6psi of boost, and rising rate FPR and larger injectors (stock injectors from 7MGE motor can handle up to ~300-350 RWHP on the 1UZ, IIRC) should get you to ~10 psi. Beyond that, you need to go piggyback to !Removed! timing.

One caveat for polyurethane bushings, especially for those in colder climates, is that they are notorious for squeaking eventually. (Not initially, but eventually). They are harder than stock (less compliance) and lead to a more "sporting" nature, but the squeak is an unfortunate byproduct of polyurethane.

Of course geometry is altered if you raise/lower it. Also keep in mind that if you set it really low, that means there is less air in the shocks, and it will be a really wallowy ride. I've got a DataSystems controller and love it. Allows me to slam it down on the wheels in the summer, and raise it for plowing through thick snow in the winter. No serious drawbacks whatsoever, as long as you use it with common sense.

I removed the integrated cell phone, and installed my Data Systems air ride controller in there where it is discreet but easily accessible. Also mounted the switch to toggle between CD changer input and MP3 input--the input cable also lies in there so it's out of the way when not in use.

I think it is www.distinctiveautoconcepts.com Do you have a price estimate? (You have to send them an inquiry to get a pricing idea).

Although the data is inconclusive, I believe most of the lower clunking over bumps/potholes appears to be mostly attribute to lower ball joint, with it typically failing before the UCA components. BTW, lower ball joint is only ~$60 each and about 45 mins for the first time if you've never done it, and probably half that time for the other half. Only need to replace the one that is clunking, though--is it coming front Driver's front or Passenger's front side?

TCPAUL--thanks for the report. Could you describe the nature of the clanking that you experienced prior to the new UCA install? Was it over general bumps/potholes, or slow speed-bump types, etc?

Please do--your 'pioneering' in this area will be of great benefit to the LS400 community!

If you're clunking when hitting potholes, bumps, etc I would investigate lower ball joints first. Much cheaper, easier to install, and fixes the infamous 1LS clunk most of the time. Just replaced my right front, and it took less than an hour from wheel off to wheel on.

I would also be very hesitant to buy the Arnott UCAs due to the negative feedback I've seen on the quality of their "OEM" strut replacements. Unfortunately, since they are new, we won't have any truly positive feedback for several years. Negative feedback could be sooner, however. Time will tell.

SONYMAN--your posts on this thread are just about the most informative, concise bits of useful information I have seen. Just fantastic.

Also fiddle with the gear lever selector--if it's not registered in "Park" just so, it will prevent proper key removal.

Just make sure you get the correct harness for your year vehicle.

Misleading--you waited a full hour, not 1/2 hour!! :D Computer "relearns" your driving style and adjusts, once you pull the battery.

You definitely did it the correct way--utilizing new projector beams that have the proper pattern to "contain" HID output. Unfortunately, there is no projector retrofit available for 1gen LS400, and we are stuck with the awful glass lens that actually produces the "pattern". These make for an awful glare problem when simply replacing the 9004 bulb with an HID kit. The Hi/Low kits that move the filiment are less than ideal for 1gen LS400 applications, as again, the pattern on the glass headlight housing of the LS400 does not provide a proper pattern for the now-moved Hi-beam light source.

Yes it will be a 9004 kit. However, you will either lose your high beams or it will be a compromised "filiment arc shifting" solution that does not provide the true proper pattern and will glare everything in sight.

How slow, and can you adjust the dampening as well as the height? How much was it? How much would this cost, and what can it do better than the stock setup with just a controller? Can anyone post pics of their controller setup, and of their ride dropped/raised? It's as slow as your standard system (requires time for pump to raise, or small bleed valve to release air to lower). As mentioned, this is due to no air reservoir--only pump. It allows for much greater ride height variation than stock. You can dump it onto its tires (yes, it goes that low), or you can raise it so it looks like a 4x4 LS400. In winter's deep snow, I set it super high to plow through fresh snow. In summer, it sits several inches lower than stock for a better look. It does NOT allow for shock dampening/rebound. However, keep in mind that using a controller on the stock air ride will result in wallowy ride quality when lowered extensively, and rather bumpy ride when jacked way up (imagine the compliance of a balloon when deflated/overinflated). When running low, I set my adjustable shock firmness to "sport" to compensate for reduced air dampening in the shock and it rides great.

Please keep us posted...especially regarding ballast placement.

Not sure if we're allowed to post links to other sites--mods feel free to modify if necessary. I bought red/clear/red taillights and clear turn signals from luxurymods.com and they completely transformed the look of my 1LS. Makes it look much newer and modern. Great site and extremely helpful service.

Yup--was one of my first purchases as well. It rocks.

Please do send pics. BTW, Han, the new owner of LuxuryMods.com has really busted his hump to bring back great customer service to the shop. My compliments to him and his efforts.