vetmx1

check the codes again. see what comes up. my2000 es300 had cel and vsc lights. i forget the codes, but turned into the charcoal canister. something like $230 and 2 hours on the ground, but the lights are gone. used lexus of brookfield, wi for parts.

I have a noise when turning the wheel on my 2000 es300. it is definitely right at the back of the steering wheel, where it meets the steering column, or approx in that area. it is not under the hood. I ignore it, but a friend asked what the crazy noise was. I wouldn't mind fixing it.

What are the specific codes being generated? What does the forum say about those? Have you reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery for a while? that may clear the codes. I have a 2000 es300 w/141k. I have replaced 4 coil packs. I diagnose the same way - by disconnecting one at a time. I've replaced 4 of them. i did one a long time back, then in a period of one month, i lost 3 packs with 10-14 days in between each. I'm now carrying a spare. my point being- i had multiples go out. maybe you too...? My local dealer gave me a good price - $80 a coil pack out the door. retail was $92 or 96 + tax (IL cook co. = 10%!) REF: Autozone will check your codes for free.

Thank you for the input. I had a 95 Camry that did not have this issue. Seemed odd that this one did. I normally don't warm a car up, i just get in and go, but i also don't want to be too hard on the car. I'll have to warm it up a bit in the winter before driving. I wish i could get a 5 speed on this car, but the older i get, the more spoiled I get. I like the auto. I was hoping my wife would get a 5 speed so i could still drive one. Maybe an 'IS' next time. Thanks.

I have a 2000 Es300 with 141K miles. Runs good, nice car, etc. In the chicago winters, I start the car from cold, and until it warms up, the trans has trouble shifting up. In the neighborhood (driving slow), it gets up to right around 30 mph, and the engine is revving at 2750 rpm. If the car were warm, it would shift, but because it's cold, it holds onto that gear. If I go faster - up to about 3000 rpm, the car will then shift. When I leave work, within several hundred feet, I'm on a fast road. Because I'm on it a bit, the car keeps shifting, getting up to alomost 50mph, and about 3000 rpm. It will not up shift. I've tried pressing it a couple times, but depending on how cold it is, I'll have to drive another half mile or so, then it will shift up and drive like it normally would. Once it cools off, it has these issues like clockwork. I had a 95 camry v6 before this Lexus, and it never had this problem. What the heck is going on? I've reset the car by disconnecting the battery for a long period of time. still does the same thing - when it's cold. I THINK during the summer it was OK, but when the temps started cooling off, it would act up. Does anyone else have this, or more importantly, know what is goin on? THANKS!

I have a 2000 Es300 with 140K miles. I had a hum in the back of the car. The tires are fairly new, and I doubted there was a tire tread separation (which can make noise). I rotated tires front to back and the noise was still out back. I had my wife drive so i could listen from the back seat. I was certain the noise was from one side of the car, so I replaced the rear wheel bearing on that side. Darn, didn't fix it, so I replaced the other side wheel bearing. DONE. back to being quiet again. The job was a bit of a pain, but not that difficult. for the first one, I used an arbor press at work to press the spindle out of the bearing. the second time I got a gear puller from sears which worked better. The thing that was !Removed! me up was the gear-like thing that is used for the ABS. put a rag on it and pull and twist with a big set of pliers. it coes out, then you can get the spindle nut off.

Too funny. Lots of views, but apparently no one buys oem parts. Per the forums, I called park place lexus 866.891.3383. talked to brian. he was very helpful. I then called Lexus of Brookfield (wisconsin). Terry was also helpful. 262.797.2000. I called and spoke about my issue, but had to do the purchase online thru the website. I went with Brookfield (lexuspartsmall) as they are near by. I received the part the next day. Rather than take a chance on a $45 part (vsv) totally fixing the problem, I went for the $231 charcoal canister. I'm running out of time before a trip and want to fix the problem in one shot. Gonna put the part on today or tomorrow. e

You are a braver man than I. I had a 95 camry v6. leaky power steering. I did the high pressure hose. saved a bunch on parts and install. the rack was still leaking, so I had someone else do it. Looked impossible to get it out. wonder if this is a more common problem on these cars?? You should post what you can on the job. how difficult? your procedure, pics...? Good Luck!

Can anyone recommend a good place or dealers to buy OEM parts at "online" prices? I had dealt a couple time with Champion in Houston, but the last time they wouldn't budge off of regular OEM walk in prices. I'd rather pay a reasonable amount for a $120 VSV (vacuum valve switch). I looked around the forum, but haven't found much. I'm outside chicago, but anything in the US would be fine. Thanks.

There is no sensor. You can just push on one wiper (where the blade attaches to the arm) to push it back to summer mode. Snow/ice just got jammed at the windshield and it forced the change iteslf. I like the summer mode is better - the wipers are better hidden. When i know it's gonna snow, I pull them up to winter. I don't see you have a year listed for your car, but i don't think it matters. My 91 Legend had the same thing. I have a '00 es300.

Try www.rockauto.com See *** Below got 4 kyb gr2 struts and upper front bearings for $420 shipped. monroe quick struts bought locally are faster and easier, but heard they ride stiffer (no proof though). Also in the $160-180 range (i heard). the job is easy, but up thru 22 mm sockets needed. air tools a help. i posted on the process previously - 'easy' but time consuming. If compressing springs, a different job altogether. that was the 'most difficult'/time consuming part. but do-able. Alignment is needed afterward. my alignment as close, but off. do the rear bushings as well. mine was quiet with a monor noise in the back. 15 mins and $11 in parts - QUIET. Nice. I paid $110 for a 1 year alignment. $100 + 10 'shop fees'. (shop fees 'kiss my _ss! for what?) For whatever reason, Rockauto does a 5% rebate with the correct code. A friend gave it to me. The discount code is: 826397733093 to use it: (from rockauto) * Enter your code in the "How did you hear about us" line of the shopping cart. * If you are using our traditional HTML catalog, please click the "Set" button to the right of the field. * Your discount will automatically appear, subtracted from your order total.

has anyone seen type 4 in a store? I have not, but have just started looking into it. do i really need to pay Lexus dealer prices?

Oops. that was a 2000 es300 in the post above, not an 02.

i just put kyb gr2's on my 02 es300, plus front upper mounts/bearings. what i think is a screaming cheap price. $~420 for 4 struts and two front upper mounts. $420 shipped from rockauto.com. they offer a 5% discount code. seems a bit stiffer, but overall pretty good. don't know if there is any break in period. i did the job myself. took about 6 hours, but that was moving slowly. plus the package tray was not straight forward or explained anywhere. the cheapo spring compressor was a pain on the front. didn't compress enough, but i was able to make it work. overall an easy job - with the right tools. floor jack, bottle jack, air compressor and air gun. hindsight says the monroe quickstruts woulda been faster but heard they were stiffer than stock and didn't want that.

do power/voltage checks. look at the schematic. chase the wires. bad ground? tough to diagnose from here. hands on. good luck.

I had a 95 camry that spewed oil on a filter change. If not cleaned well, it would smell for a while. Not as much smell after a replacement header pipe, but still a mess. stupid on toyo's part. My '00 ES300 has a hole in the engine mount that drains straight thru. Drips into the drain pan. Makes an oil filter replacement much better.

It's fixed! Here is the whole process. This is what I would want to find posted for this problem. The original issue was the car ran very rough. The VSC (vehicle stability control) and the check engine light were on. Check engine light was flashing at times. The car didn't really want to do over 45 mph. I had Auto Zone check the codes - P0301 Cylinder #1 misfire. Did some digging on this forum and that led me to the coil pack. I didn't want to swap coil packs and then drive the car again to get it tested for an answer, so i tested the parts on the car. I was able to verify the coil pack on cyl #1 was bad by the following steps: I verified plug from cylinder#1 with my lawnmower. The plug worked. I used the lawnmower to rule out the possibility of a bad plug. I used the mower because I was concerned that I could create shooting flames from the sparkplug hole. Maybe not, but I wanted to be careful. Now to test on the car. I made sure the plug inside the coil pack had a good ground on the engine (i used a valve Cover bolt), and ran a jumper wire from the metal in the coil pack mounting hole to a good ground. Didn't want to ruin anything, and Bad ground = no spark. I tested coil pack#1 on cyl #1 with the plug from cyl #1. NO spark. -Verifying that cyl #1 didn't work. I tryed coil pack#2 on cyl #2 using plug from cyl#1. I saw spark. -Verified that #2 was working, and gave me a place to test coil #1. I tried coil pack #1 on cyl#2 with the same cyl #1 plug and no spark. Problem isolated to coil pack #1. I was surprised how fast I had to spin the engine to generate spark. It would just begin to run when I saw spark. My wife did the key turning. I tested the car and it ran well, but the VSC and check engine lights were still on, so I disconnected the battery for 15 mins. The ECU reset itself and the warning lights were GONE. I got the coil pack Part Number from Champion Toyota in Houston. www.toyotaworld.com 800.327.2087 They can look up parts for your Lexus. Many times the parts are Toyota. Several years ago I bought a steering rack for my old camry from them and they were CHEAP vs dealer retail pricing. The VVTi coil pack Part Number is 90080-19016. Prices: Local Lexus dealer $103. Local Toyo dealer $90. Champion Toyota $68. I'm in Chicago and didn't want to wait for the part by mail, so i bought it locally for $90 +tax.

No, should I change the plug wire, coil cap or both? Thanks I have the same issue with a P0301 (#1 cyl misfire). I think it's the coil pack. No conclusive info on the forum that I've found. I could flip coil packs and drive ~30 miles round trip to see if the problems has changed cylinders, but would rather not. I did a quick try to put the plug on the valve cover and check for spark on #2 cyl, but no spark there. Maybe a bad ground thru th valve cover.? Called for coil pack prices: Lex dealer $103. Toy dealer $90, but not sure that it's the same part. toy #9008019012 What is the best way to test a coil pack? Any other suggestions? (00 es300 126k mi - ran [past tense!] well ) thanks.

how much were the parts and from where? any other recommendations? i have a 2000 es and have one bad rear strut (weeping), but some noise, mainly up front. i figure i need upper bearing mounts and should probably do 4 struts. 126k mi. there's a balance somewhere between a great price and rolling around on the ground for a few hours. maybe it's worth it, maybe not depends on the individual. also a sense of accomplishment if you do it. i don't think it's that difficult, but do i wanna do it? if i can save a few hundred, maybe that's cash spent elsewhere. thanks-

IMO, the only reason to replace or cut the rotors is if they are warped. my 95 camry and the 00 es300 go thru rotors, but i also tow a 5x8 trailer. 30- 50 mph, hit the brakes aggressively. does the wheel shake? if so, get rotors. I got the $30 cheapies and they seemed fine. haven't priced the Lex rotors yet. changing the pads is easy. wheel off, med to large screwdriver, pry the pads apart a bit. the bottom bolt in front or rear calipers comes off (i'm pretty sure), the caliper rotates out of the way. don't stretch the brake line! get the piston back into the caliper w/ the screwdriver earlier, or I use channellock pliers (or c-clamp). new pads in place, rotate the caliper in place, replace bolt. done. check brake fluid level before/after. excess could spill out (turkey baster to remove fluid). top off fluid after you stomp the brakes a few times. drive easy for a couples to seat the pads. always a good idea to look at the manual for assisitance thru the process. rotors are just a little further. I think you have to pull the caliper mounting bracket to get the rotor off. check the book. 2 more big bolts (17mm [11/16"] ?) which will be tight.

I have a '00 that has a hesitation with a pop/backfire. You're in the gas a little, let off, and immediately press it to the floor. Runs fine otherwise.

I bought a key from Midwestkeyless in Illinois, thru Ebay for my 2000 ES300. I got in on auction for $60 + $6 to ship. They sent the wrong key, then just a housing to replace (with key blank). Then a whole new key. That was the 'painful' part - it took time to get it right. But they were anxious to get it right for me; I'd buy there again. I took the key to the local lexus dealer who wasn't sure he could cut it accurately, but it worked fine. The programming took me a couple tries, but it worked fine. Instructions were provided via web address. I am now back to two full function keys.

I'm an idiot. I never checked all the lights; they all seemed ok. The fuse blew for the parking lights (only 10 amps). I figure it was the 5x8 enclosed trailer lights (motocross bike) I pull that blew the fuse. Have to watch it more closely. Never happened on my camry... There were no idicator lights that told me my parking light fuse was blown out. I thought there woulda been something...

I have a '00 ES300. When I set the alarm (lock doors) with the keyless remote, the parking lights do not blink anymore. The lights and the beep used to go off together. It still beeps, but no lights. The keyless remote works fine otherwise. Nothing changed that I'm aware of. What could it be?

I had the engine codes checked. I got P0440 and 0441. The guy said it was gas cap/evaporative. I left it running when I filled it with gas. I will look around and check for hoses off or loose clamps, etc. It doesn't idle high as I would think it would with a vacuum leak, but I will check. You are also saying I should check all the fuel system components separately. Let me see what I can do - that will take a little time. Thanks!