JDMSedan

Congrats on the new whip Mosh! I planned on a D2 for my 99' as well and would like to know how that's done too. Alejandro, as far as the asthetics of the install, get one of these and you'll have no worries. http://www.l-tunedparts.com/product/?id=1726

The only way anybody can help is if you find out what the new code is. If it's the same one then something is causing your cats to overheat like your EGR valve or something. White smoke sounds like an internal engine problem like maybe bad rings.

Finally somebody from the SELOC crew gets credit! The ATL has some of the nicest GSs in the country and maybe now everybody else will know it too. Nice job Carbon! Once I'm done with school I'll be back in the ATL to represent once again.

The problem with these aftermarket lights is the wattage rating on them. For example let's say your factory bulbls are rated at 55w. Most of the cheap aftermarket bulbs are rated at 80w to cheat more light output onto the road-not good. This will almost always fry headlight harnesses due to increased current and more current = more heat, hence the burnt connectors which are not designed to handle the increased wattage / heat. Aftermarket bulbs are fine if you match up the wattage rating of the new bulbs with the factory bulbs' output rating.

Damn! I really wish you didn't spend $1600 on a cat that you probably didn't even need. Just because you get a catalyst efficiency code it doesn't mean you need to replace the cat. Let's see, you replaced the cat and you still have a problem. What that tells me is that something else is causing your cats or better yet your secondary O2 sensor to generate a higher voltage than the factory set parameters are allowed to see. OBDII codes are not designed to tell you exactly what the problem is with your car, it just gives the technician a general area to look in. Something is causing an extremely lean or extremely rich condition in your engine which is causing the cat to have to work harder than it needs to. I garantee if you put another cat on you car you may stand the chance of ruining the new one over a short period of time. Did the technician even hook up a scanner to your car? WTF? BTW p0430 and p0420 codes mean. 1st digit = Powertrain problem. 2nd digit which is 0 means a generic code (meaning not manufacturer specific), the 3rd is some sort of emission control problem (possibly the cat but not definite), and the last two are specific to your car's systems. I hte to tell you this, but you may have wasted your money. Looks like the guy at the dealership is a parts changer and not technician. I tell you what, take your car back up there and tell him to look at the Long Term Fuel Trim and see what reaction you get. If he seems looks at you like "huh"? then he has no idea what he's doing. Next step, find the service manager to ask him why his techs are taking people's money.

I used to have a 94 and it was a great car. I'm actually considering getting another one. Let's see, things to look for....well, the cup holders suck so make sure they work. Don't expect to find one with the 12-disk CD chnager that actually works (I got lucky). Interiors on these cars almost never hold up well. Oh yeah, make sure you check the carpet under the mats. If you see discoloration, the heater core is busted-a very common problem on this car. Almost every one I looked at before I bought mine had this problem. But then again, it IS a 10-plus year old car and they will have problems. If I think of anything else or if you have any more questions, let me know.

IMO, there isn't a good enough blower kit out there for the GS300. They always leave you wanting more power. And for that matter you're pretty much stuck with what you get with a blower-no room for improvement. SRT hands down offers the most complete turbo kits available for the GS300. You could build your kit but these guys spent a lot of time and research to put together a complete kit (less low compressuin pistons) comprised of parts that actually work together. Check this one out: http://www.swiftracing.com/turbochargers/l...00/stage275.htm This one is for the IS, but can be adapted very easily to fit the GS. Believe me, I have searhed and searched for kits over the last two or three years and this one is the best I've seen. Some might say, "I'll just swap in a JDM 2JZGTE VVTi". Great idea, but will only get you the factory rated 280HP. For the money you spend for an Aristo front clip less install labor, it will be about the same or more for a good turbo kit. Let's see...for around 7k I could get 280HP (swap) or 450-500HP (Turbo kit)...A no brainer IMO.

OEM injector only.................Cheap = Failure :cries: I can tell you right now that you are waisting your time and money just "throwing parts" at your car. How do you know there IS actually a problem with the injector? OBDII codes will only give you a direction to look in, it's not a magic road map to every problem that may go wrong with your car. There are a few simple tests you can do if your interested.

Ahh, another honda owner who has seen the light! I was once like you grasshopper. I in fact still own my 99 prelude which is up for sale to continue work on my 99 GS300. As far as the swap goes. It really isn't that difficult from what I've heard. You just have to make sure that the donor Aristo is a VVTi model. This however will be a very expensive option. I know because I've researched and am still contemplated this myself. After gathering most of the info needed, I estimated that the swap would end up costing around $10k after it was all said and done. So I started looking into just adding a turbo to the 2JZ-GE as apposed to the 2JZ-GTTE VVTi. Spending the same money or less you could probably make more power and get more for your money as these engines are essintially the same. My peeps over at SELOC.net have more experience with turbo GSs than me but don't worry, these guys actually own daily driven turbo GSs (I've seen them) so I trust them. This is what one of the members GGPIS3 recommended I do: "i would do a valve body upgrade/tranny cooler to hold the excess power. go with a stage 2 turbo kit (intercooled). lower compression with a headgasket and run 10-14 psi. that should put you right in your power goals. you can piece a kit together if u know what u need or just buy a kit from a well known manufacturer (SRT, PFS, Turboeast, etc)" Expect around 7K-10K for the project. Another member Veritek said: "I myself have done the NA-T, with a Turbonetics T-66, GTE block, ARP head studs, Greddy head gasket, Valve body and TC tranny upgrade, ApexI dual exhausts and will be switching to Greddy e-Manage, so I'll letcha know what I finally end up with after tuning. This is my second setup. My first was a Turbonetics T04E, and stock GE trim with map-ECU controller, and she put down 290whp with stock exhaust (and TTE quad exhaust mufflers). If you want the pimp factor, do the GTE swap. It's about the same to do the GTE swap and building the GE block with forged internals. I was thinking about doing the forged internals when my rings blew in my first set up, but then you have to worry about the machine shop's quality of work, etc, vs getting a known quantity with a Toyota supplied GTE block." You should try and talk to these guys. They would be glad to help you out.